kashurst
Well-known member
Can you spray Plastikote directly onto Zinsser BIN?
Bought another boat.
- Thread starter kashurst
- Start date
westernman
Well-known member
I really like the colour scheme.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
It rotates so you can have it landscape or portrait
Mr Googler
Well-known member
30 plus year old wood varnished doors…rubbed down, zinseer bin and sprayed with rustolem painters touch solvent based enamel paint. Nice tough finish.
If you are talking plasticote enamel spray, don’t see why not
Plastikote Multi-surface Spray Paint - Gloss Medium Grey 400ml | Wickes.co.uk
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kashurst
Well-known member
Thanks MrG, I will get some Zinsser BIN and do a few test pieces.
nicho
Well-known member
OMG, this transformation is incredible - brilliant, well done!
kashurst
Well-known member
Weather has been better so I have done some more:
We now have a cutlery drawer! Quite pleased with it, it's on roller bearing slides (screwfix) .Tucks in under the Airfryer. Needs a bit of trim either side.
Pretty much finished the port side paneling/boxing ready to be covered in foam vinyl and wood effect stuff: All the screws that keep the big components all in place are underneath so you won't see any screw heads when it's finished. The over hanging sections just under the windows will have LED strip lighting too.
The saloon side board now has doors that match and the internal cupboard openings are enlarged.
Now this next pick is not very nice at all. And no it is not from the toilet! There has been a nasty niff that wouldn't go away under the galley. Finally discovered a way into this trapped space to discover about four gallons of water and some icky gunge stuck to the bottom. euch! You can see a tide mark on the fibreglass where the water level has been going up and down. The water and gunge is from the shower. Not the shower drain but shower spray getting through the gaps around the toilet pipes. This is not unusual but unfortunately there is no way for water to get out of this section into the main bilge to get rid of it so it has accumulated over nearly 40 years. So once it is all cleaned out, disinfected and properly dry I will drill a 50mm hole through the rib and line it with plastic pipe into the next section of bilge where there is a bilge pump. Plus now I have a small hatch to get in there with a sponge if required and keep it clean. When I fit the new electric loo I will endeavour to minimise any gaps around the pipe work too. If you are squeamish look away.
Weather permitting this week I shall be cutting a big hole in the transom for the fold down transom door. Bit nervous about that as I can't cut it twice.
We now have a cutlery drawer! Quite pleased with it, it's on roller bearing slides (screwfix) .Tucks in under the Airfryer. Needs a bit of trim either side.
Pretty much finished the port side paneling/boxing ready to be covered in foam vinyl and wood effect stuff: All the screws that keep the big components all in place are underneath so you won't see any screw heads when it's finished. The over hanging sections just under the windows will have LED strip lighting too.
The saloon side board now has doors that match and the internal cupboard openings are enlarged.
Now this next pick is not very nice at all. And no it is not from the toilet! There has been a nasty niff that wouldn't go away under the galley. Finally discovered a way into this trapped space to discover about four gallons of water and some icky gunge stuck to the bottom. euch! You can see a tide mark on the fibreglass where the water level has been going up and down. The water and gunge is from the shower. Not the shower drain but shower spray getting through the gaps around the toilet pipes. This is not unusual but unfortunately there is no way for water to get out of this section into the main bilge to get rid of it so it has accumulated over nearly 40 years. So once it is all cleaned out, disinfected and properly dry I will drill a 50mm hole through the rib and line it with plastic pipe into the next section of bilge where there is a bilge pump. Plus now I have a small hatch to get in there with a sponge if required and keep it clean. When I fit the new electric loo I will endeavour to minimise any gaps around the pipe work too. If you are squeamish look away.
Weather permitting this week I shall be cutting a big hole in the transom for the fold down transom door. Bit nervous about that as I can't cut it twice.
Bouba
Well-known member
All great stuff K.... I also get nervous when modifying the boat...everything is designed to make it more livable but it probably is detracting from the resell value....I keep every spare bit so most can be returned to original
Ribtecer
Well-known member
I remember finding something similar on a GK29 of my father's. He had just bought the boat and we were investigating a smell from behind the heads.Weather has been better so I have done some more:
We now have a cutlery drawer! Quite pleased with it, it's on roller bearing slides (screwfix) .Tucks in under the Airfryer. Needs a bit of trim either side.
Pretty much finished the port side paneling/boxing ready to be covered in foam vinyl and wood effect stuff: All the screws that keep the big components all in place are underneath so you won't see any screw heads when it's finished. The over hanging sections just under the windows will have LED strip lighting too.
The saloon side board now has doors that match and the internal cupboard openings are enlarged.
Now this next pick is not very nice at all. And no it is not from the toilet! There has been a nasty niff that wouldn't go away under the galley. Finally discovered a way into this trapped space to discover about four gallons of water and some icky gunge stuck to the bottom. euch! You can see a tide mark on the fibreglass where the water level has been going up and down. The water and gunge is from the shower. Not the shower drain but shower spray getting through the gaps around the toilet pipes. This is not unusual but unfortunately there is no way for water to get out of this section into the main bilge to get rid of it so it has accumulated over nearly 40 years. So once it is all cleaned out, disinfected and properly dry I will drill a 50mm hole through the rib and line it with plastic pipe into the next section of bilge where there is a bilge pump. Plus now I have a small hatch to get in there with a sponge if required and keep it clean. When I fit the new electric loo I will endeavour to minimise any gaps around the pipe work too. If you are squeamish look away.
Weather permitting this week I shall be cutting a big hole in the transom for the fold down transom door. Bit nervous about that as I can't cut it twice.
The top was crusty and a bit whiffy, but once we disturbed the crusty top my word did it reek. It was a split exit pipe from the heads.
Horrible job!!!
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Coming on great! What’s the plan for the transom door? Not a job I’ve ever done but often thought a few previous boats could have done with it.
strength? Capping of the edges left etc….?
strength? Capping of the edges left etc….?
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Btw….the window barrel locks things are off a Citroen 2CV if you ever need spares!
colhel
Well-known member
I've had, and am sure others have too, ideas about changing things in the boat but have been put off because then the boat becomes non standard. I think sometimes though, after living with a boat for a few years, you'll have a better understanding than the original designers of what works and what doesn't. Trouble is, when you come to sell it, buyers won't believe you, tbh I probably wouldn't either if I was buying
kashurst
Well-known member
I haven't done it before either. I saw this video on Youtube. The owner did a very good job.
At 2:20 you can see what he did with the transom and if you watch for a few minutes you will get the idea. I will do it a little bit differently so the hinges won't be on show and radius the corners to minimise stress points. I suspect those sharp corners will start developing gel coat stress cracks. It will also need vertical side pieces on the boat side to take a soft foam seal, otherwise if the rain blows from the stern I will end up with a puddle in the cockpit.
I have seen Corniche 31s with a moded transom with a full stainless gate, but I am worried that removing so much material with the existing design of the deck and mouldings it would compromise the transom strength and the internal cockpit deck. If you watch the video closely you will see a vertical step section. I think its structural to the cockpit deck so will leave it alone. Hence a fold down door rather than a vertical hinged door.
Once I have removed what will become the fibreglass door. I will reinforce and close over the various gaps with 18mm marine ply, polyurethane glue, stainless screws etc then firbreglass over it all to make it water proof. The door section will be boxed in and suitably reinforced as well. Then on a decent day gel coat it all.
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stelican
Well-known member
Fairline did build a few Corniches with transom door towards the end of the run.
Alicatt
Well-known member
Still following this with great interest 
Looking very good and your workmanship looks spot on.
We are not making such a radical renovation to our boat, more tidying her up a bit.
Was out during the week getting new cloth for the seats and new mattrasses for the bed, while we were out in Holland getting the cloth we went to a Motorhome and outdoor life store to get a few bits and pieces and to price up bits we want to replace.
Looking very good and your workmanship looks spot on.
We are not making such a radical renovation to our boat, more tidying her up a bit.
Was out during the week getting new cloth for the seats and new mattrasses for the bed, while we were out in Holland getting the cloth we went to a Motorhome and outdoor life store to get a few bits and pieces and to price up bits we want to replace.
Mr Googler
Well-known member
Excited to see the process!
AndieMac
Well-known member
That was a fantastic reno Mr G, a real credit to you. I really enjoy seeing the old boats being bought back to looking new again.
AndieMac
Well-known member
check all the terminal connections on the engine sensors to start with, loose fitting on the spade terminals, verdigris or not crimped tightly enough, then move to any junction terminals and the backs of the gauges themselves, assuming analogue. It doesn’t take much to create voltage drop/resistance.
Its a great thread K, and a great transformation, sometimes you have to dig deep to get some of the jobs completed, but very satisfying when completed, and sometimes a little bit addictive ;-)
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Alicatt
Well-known member
Many years after working for Decca Radar I got a phone call from a friend that was trying to sort out a radar on a fishing boat, voltage was there but the radar would not work.
When I got to the harbour I recognised the boat, I had installed the radar some 15 years previous, in the mean time the boat had partially foundered and been raised and my friend was trying to get the electronics up and running, the radar was a Decca 101, sure enough the radar was getting full voltage but when switching it on it dropped to 0V. Tracing the wires back to a junction box where the shielded wires entered the box they were just verdigris and under no load were not letting any current past, sea water really can corrode copper wire.
AndieMac
Well-known member
Indeed, it’s a harsh corrosive environment, and that’s without getting partially submerged! You can understand why tinned wire is the preference for marine installs, another layer of protection. It can be a fine line between connectivity and not!
