Bought a Never splashed Colvic Countess 33 on eBay, Looking for infos

[Momac]

I have not read through the many pages above.
However would point out there is a thread on the mobo forum that relates to a fairly abused looking scrap shell of a boat that is being rebuilt. It has attracted great interest.
The shell in this case is presumably as good as new (after removing all the junk). So a better starting point. I don't see why the project should not be feasible if all labour is on a DIY basis.
I am not particularly interested in watching long videos but progress photos posted on the forum - yes please .

 

[GregOddity]

I have not read through the many pages above.
However would point out there is a thread on the mobo forum that relates to a fairly abused looking scrap shell of a boat that is being rebuilt. It has attracted great interest.
The shell in this case is presumably as good as new (after removing all the junk). So a better starting point. I don't see why the project should not be feasible if all labour is on a DIY basis.
I am not particularly interested in watching long videos but progress photos posted on the forum - yes please .

You Sir have a point. I'll post some.

 

[GregOddity]

Rain does not get in if you close hatches. If your cockpit drains properly water should not get down below. If you scuba dive then perhaps going down below while still wet is not a good idea.

Anyway, this occasional ingress of water can be dealt with easily and is not a cause of water damage down below. Paint all the bilge area in Danboline will keep the water away from anything that can be damaged pending mopping up. Damage is caused usually by leaks that are constant and lead to water getting into wood or bilges permanently wet. That is unnecessary in a well put together GRP boat.

So, the advice is to concentrate on eliminating potential sources of leaks in the build process rather than trying to use exotic material.

I am indeed following that school of thought. Just a few of the through hull screws that I have show any signs of moisture but I’m still going to take the bare hull chance to get them al ship shape. There are also some areas that are more in need of attention namely the sole of the cockpit that is also a removable engine access of some kind.
Portholes are bugging me tho. Going to remove the all thing and save the glass but thinking of stainless.
On the inside, I’m actually thinking of grinding the all thing smooth and I know what people are going to say when they see how I’m going to do it. Then once smooth perhaps the Dandoline

 

[pandos]

I ooked at the videos and read most of theses posts OMG says it all, but a super boat to do the work on, (I have a not so secret notion of converting a conventional hull into a decksaloon)...

Among other things, I am a chippy by trade and have been at my boats for too many years, I have spent more time and money ashore than afloat....have always been short of cash whilst having aspirations to grandeur. I understand the OPs budgetting optimism....

In deferrence to OPs request for practical advice,

1. Drill a hole in the ass of the boat at the lowest point, (put a through hull here to close it up prior to launch, forever more you will have the option to drain the dehumidifier through it or to powerwash the engine bay etc....( there is one in my HR352 so not a radical suggestion,) I would have done it to yours before i set foot into it.

2. Keep whatever wooden bits you can identify for use as templates..

3. work out what style cabinet doors you intend to use, get a list of the standard sizes then work the furniture up from these sizes using solid hardwood frames, of uniform size, this approach is easier and cheaper than marine ply and gives a better vessel. ( the secret is not end up looking for doors to fit odd sizes or to have out of proportion frames)...

mock up all of the furniture using cheap ply and softwood with screws from B&Q or the likes, this will allow you to really see the available space and accessibility issues....

you will still need marine ply ( best quality not the sh.t you get in builders providers.)

4 Corian worktops and nav-station top....

5. Only use best quality tinned copper wire, there are firms who will design a system but it is not rocket science, put the wires in so you can pull through additional when required. ( when you design the system pair items so the system can be diagnosed (for example on many cars the horn and the cooling fan are on the same fuse) the left indicator and the right headlight are linked etc) easy to track down faults/ blown fuses etc)

6. buy a used, proper marine engine and matched gearbox and prop, with a dripless seal (volvo) the day may come when you want someone to fix it when you are simply too busy or physically unable....

7. use proper professional grade tools, corded rather than battery when it comes to sanders and grinders get a 115mm grinder... pick up a 110 transformer and used 110v tools (blue bosch or dewalt /makita) waterproof connections and tools that can take dogs abuse

8. flap discs are fantasic for grinding and cleaning fiberglass.https://www.raygrahams.com/products...mi3owh8_gq2givzbztch1sfge3eaqyayabegitdvd_bwe

9. Move the boat nearer to home, sink the keel into a pit so you can work on the deck from the ground. build a set of steps. get the hull absolutly level fore and port starboard... make it possible to use a spirit level/waterlevel/laser.

10. pay the yard fees by cheque/cash as you go, so your mind is kept focussed on the real cost of not sailing the boat. and remember perfection is not of this world, although its pursuit should be the goal....(at the outset)

11. have fun...

 

[davidej]

A lot of really good advice!

Much more use that the "you must be mad" posts that have been far more common here.

 

[lpdsn]

A lot of really good advice!

Much more use that the "you must be mad" posts that have been far more common here.

The 'you must be mad' posts would've been extremely useful if the OP had taken any notice of them.

 

[GregOddity]

The 'you must be mad' posts would've been extremely useful if the OP had taken any notice of them.

Errr... I beg to differ. I took notice of ALL of them. But here's something of a nugget my Grandpa taught me when I was a kid, ANYONE that buys a Boat or Builds one IS MAD. Having said that you should never listen to Mad people

 

[davidej]

The 'you must be mad' posts would've been extremely useful if the OP had taken any notice of them.

Maybe - but the OP had made it abundantly clear what he intends to do so what the point of "dissing"him?

I have restored a couple of classic cars and it is for the pleasure/ satisfaction of doing it. The end result could almost certainly been bought cheaper

 

[Wansworth]

Will it pay......Joshua Slocum was faced with the same off putting advice and look where it got him!

 

[lpdsn]

Maybe - but the OP had made it abundantly clear what he intends to do so what the point of "dissing"him?

I have restored a couple of classic cars and it is for the pleasure/ satisfaction of doing it. The end result could almost certainly been bought cheaper

Who's 'dissing' him? I don't even know what language the word is.

I've posted a few bits of advice. He's not interested, so I've left him to it. We'll see what happens. I doubt Paddy Power will be offering me attractive odds.

 

[lpdsn]

Errr... I beg to differ. I took notice of ALL of them. But here's something of a nugget my Grandpa taught me when I was a kid, ANYONE that buys a Boat or Builds one IS MAD. Having said that you should never listen to Mad people

You're determined. I'll give you that.

 

[ashtead]

Best wishes on your project. Watched the first vid today and can see that this looks like a project where we can all learn something. Do remember if you can to say something about the bits of kit you are using as it does add to vid appeal I suspect . Maybe you can host an open day where forumites can come down and support your efforts. I did see another US vid where they invited patrons to make contact for a day sail so might be a way to gain some assistance if required.

 

[GregOddity]

Best wishes on your project. Watched the first vid today and can see that this looks like a project where we can all learn something. Do remember if you can to say something about the bits of kit you are using as it does add to vid appeal I suspect . Maybe you can host an open day where forumites can come down and support your efforts. I did see another US vid where they invited patrons to make contact for a day sail so might be a way to gain some assistance if required.

Thank you, and a hell of a good idea. I also don't mind showing a few things that will help people get things done easier. I'm goin to try and explain some tools and how to make some others that should make life easier for the amateur builder. Looking at this from a professional perspective is completely different then from a DiY point of view.

 

[Concerto]

Greg

In the renovations to my Fulmar, my most used tool has been a Fein Multitool. If you or anyone else is doing a lot of renovation on a boat, I cannot recommend it enough.
https://fein.com/en_uk/oscillators/tools/fein-multimaster/

If you are doing a lot of work using electric tools you will appreciate the built in anti vibration feature. They are powerful industrial tools and are not that cheap, but will last far longer than cheaper brands. The number of extras cannot be matched by any other tool. I have used mine for sanding, compounding, polishing, sawing, lifting TreadMaster, cut small square holes and large openings, etc. All materials have been tackled, e.g. timber, plywood, plastic, fiberglass, metal.

 

[GregOddity]

Greg

In the renovations to my Fulmar, my most used tool has been a Fein Multitool. If you or anyone else is doing a lot of renovation on a boat, I cannot recommend it enough.
https://fein.com/en_uk/oscillators/tools/fein-multimaster/

If you are doing a lot of work using electric tools you will appreciate the built in anti vibration feature. They are powerful industrial tools and are not that cheap, but will last far longer than cheaper brands. The number of extras cannot be matched by any other tool. I have used mine for sanding, compounding, polishing, sawing, lifting TreadMaster, cut small square holes and large openings, etc. All materials have been tackled, e.g. timber, plywood, plastic, fiberglass, metal.

Thanks Concerto, I use a lot of stuff from Fein, I just renewed my multitool with a https://fein.com/en_us/oscillating-multi-tool/multimaster/fein-multimaster-top-0342759/
Ive got a few more things form them like industrial vaccum cleaners etc. The tools are expensive but last a very long time with the use and abuse that I give them. I'm not very attached to any special brand but I do like Fine / Flex / and some DeWalt.
Glad to see you know your tools. Did you know that all the other multitools use the licence from Fine that actually holds the patent for it?
And I got to say that I love the quick release of that tool. Snap and new blade, love that.

I totally second your recommendation THAT tool is probably the most useful in any refit.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Portholes are bugging me tho. Going to remove the all thing and save the glass but thinking of stainless.

Not sure what you mean by portholes, but it you remove glass with the intention of replacing it, make sure it returns in the same orientation as before if it has a bend in it. (Glass does bend - I've proved it but it needs courage and time!)

 

[GregOddity]

Not sure what you mean by portholes, but it you remove glass with the intention of replacing it, make sure it returns in the same orientation as before if it has a bend in it. (Glass does bend - I've proved it but it needs courage and time!)

My bad, I come from a different sailing world of wooden vessels, they all have portholes not windows, bear with me while I learn about this brave new world of plastic and windows and things that I have no idea what they are called.

 

[Tranona]

My bad, I come from a different sailing world of wooden vessels, they all have portholes not windows, bear with me while I learn about this brave new world of plastic and windows and things that I have no idea what they are called.

Windows will do. How you deal with them depends on what type they are. Many from that era are built up from aluminium extrusions, rubber seals and glass screwed together and often leak after 30 years or so as rubber perishes and metal bits corrode. Refurbishment is either expensive or time consuming as well as consuming a big chunk of your weekly expletive allowance! Opening ones can be even more fun to make and keep watertight.

 

[GregOddity]

Windows will do. How you deal with them depends on what type they are. Many from that era are built up from aluminium extrusions, rubber seals and glass screwed together and often leak after 30 years or so as rubber perishes and metal bits corrode. Refurbishment is either expensive or time consuming as well as consuming a big chunk of your weekly expletive allowance! Opening ones can be even more fun to make and keep watertight.

I'm having all that fun as we speak and I'm afraid I've used a months’ worth of my weekly expletive allowance... Those "things" besides being transparent because of the glass only keep the water they left through ... inside.
There was no rubber left on them or seals of any kind just bits of moss all around. we’re taking them all out. leaving now to take a new despairing look at them. It will involve lots of "Humm" and sighs

 

[Humblebee]

When you get some prices from Bristol-based Robbins Timber, you could with profit compare with price offerings from Avon Plywood.... just on the other side of Briz'l.
www.avonply.co.uk/‎

They don't have such a flash product catalogue, nor do they take a stand at all the boat shows, but you might be pleasantly surprised at their knowledge and service. Did I mention prices....?[/QUOTE]


Should the link be to avonplywood.co.uk. ?