richardh10
Active member
Many thanks to everybody. The solenoid is going to be forward but not actually in the anchor locker.
Electric windlass
- Thread starter richardh10
- Start date
richardh10
Active member
Apologies for dragging this thread out again, but I now have a new problem!
The windlass has arrived, and the cable that is wired into the motor isn’t long enough to get to the nearest dry spot for the solenoid. The cable I have going through the boat is 40mm. The cable from the motor is 25?mm. Should I buy more 25mm cable to get me to where I want to go, or is there some way of joining the two different sized cables? Would a couple of cable terminal ends bolted together be ok, or is that a no-no?
Many thanks (again)
The windlass has arrived, and the cable that is wired into the motor isn’t long enough to get to the nearest dry spot for the solenoid. The cable I have going through the boat is 40mm. The cable from the motor is 25?mm. Should I buy more 25mm cable to get me to where I want to go, or is there some way of joining the two different sized cables? Would a couple of cable terminal ends bolted together be ok, or is that a no-no?
Many thanks (again)
daverebbettes
Member
I went through just this killing myself thought last year and finally succumbed to new windlass. I love it. Best thing I ever did as a solo sailor. I use the anchor now far more than ever.
Bought and self installed a Lofrans X2 Project 1000. Easy Install. Works a treat.
Bought and self installed a Lofrans X2 Project 1000. Easy Install. Works a treat.
RupertW
Well-known member
Any joints should be in a dry spot if at all possible. If you take the case off are the cables attached in a way that you could disconnect the short ones and get your longer on instead? As it happens our solenoid/fuse is by the battery and chart table which I find very convenient and has always been fine but can see some possible advantage to having it closer except that it would be inside a cabin and much less accessible than aft or would get wet.
superheat6k
Well-known member
The method suggested is perfectly OK, but can only really be sealed with Self Amalgamating tape. I would instead use a 70mm2 in line crimp ferrule, pare back both cables sufficiently to allow the conductors to enter the full length of the ferrule, one cable from each end. However, a 40mm length of copper tube with an ID ~ 10mm will also work. Before assembly slip a couple of lengths of heat shrink tubing large enough to pass over the jointer, and one 3 x and the second 4 x the ferrule length, pushing each over the cable before assembly.
If you don't have a hydraulic crimper then a decent pair of mole grips will achieve a decent if somewhat untidy crimp.
Neeves
Well-known member
You do not say, it might be in the thread earlier, how long the 2 different sizes of cables are. But if you need a long run of the smaller cable - from complete ignorance, I'd suggest it might not be big enough - someone will comment (I hope)
superheat6k
Well-known member
The volts drop in the final connection cables will be negligible, and will be acceptable by the makers own design and using a larger feeder cable will reduce volts drops along the main run.
Neeves
Well-known member
That was quick!
duncan99210
Well-known member
My installation means that the supply cables are joined to the winch cables in the anchor locker. For simplicity, I've got ring terminals crimped on to both the supply and winch cables, joined with a stainless steel bolts. Then wrapped in a generous covering of self amalgamating tape. It's not pretty but seeing as it's all tucked away out of sight I'm not too bothered. It's been in situ now for a good few years, so clearly not suffering too much. I did it that way for two reasons. Firstly, the ring crimp terminals were the only ones to be had locally when the job needed doing. Second, it makes for an easier disconnect if required for serving the winch.
Short answer, don't loose any sleep about it. Yes, using a neat set of joining crimps would be best with the appropriate heat shrinks over the top but if that's not possible, then ring terminal and bolts will work.
Short answer, don't loose any sleep about it. Yes, using a neat set of joining crimps would be best with the appropriate heat shrinks over the top but if that's not possible, then ring terminal and bolts will work.
Boathook
Well-known member
I did mine the same way but put it into a water resistant box tucked under the deck at high level. The cables drop down from the box to try and reduce the chance of any water entering. So far after quite a few years it is still all ok ................
oldmansailingdotcom
New member
I bought a boat with a Lofrans Cayman last summer. The windlass had an infuriating habit of sometimes not working. There was no pattern to it - sometimes all you would get was a loud click. Nobody seemed to know what to do about this (the UK distributor suggested hitting it with a winch handle or sending it to them for service). Ultimately it turned out that the commutator needed cleaning. Has been fine ever since. Full description on my blog.
sailaboutvic
Well-known member
What is an acceptable voltage drop over 22 mts ( 11 mts V- and 11 mts V+ ) 35sq cable 1000 motor ?
pathfinderstu
Member
And why do you need such a heavy anchor on your vessel...am curious..
oldmansailingdotcom
New member
Don't really need down function but since I have it, would be nice if it worked. Does now - commutator seems to need cleaning every year. Big anchor: I went to order a 15kg but they were out of stock and the cunning salesman said: "But I have a 20kg..." I must say I sleep very well knowing it's down there...
