Parabolica
Active member
For the newbie whose Williams 325 came with the boat, this thread is absolutely priceless. Thank you !
A Williams Jet Rib Guide
- Thread starter jrudge
- Start date
Peterlewis321
Active member
Hi everyone, for info we are having major issues with the availability of engine parts for our 2014 Williams 285s…..our local (excellent) dealer in Spain has had the boat since late Feb and they are still waiting for engine parts required for the repair (catalyser, housing and exhaust elbow)…..by all accounts Williams has none, and the engine manufacturer (Textron in the US) also have none and worse still are non-committal as to when they ‘might’ even be able to supply some to Williams!!!! Our dealer also advises we are not alone and they have several other Williams tenders awaiting unavailable engine parts. Reading between the lines I suspect there are now relationship issues between Williams and Textron since Williams shifted entirely to the Rotax powerplant…..
We already knew that the older Weber engines (750) are a major headache these days for spare parts but had assumed another few years before the same happened with the newer 850….but it seems not!!
Bottom line, I’d be super cautious before even contemplating purchasing a Weber powered Williams!!!!
We already knew that the older Weber engines (750) are a major headache these days for spare parts but had assumed another few years before the same happened with the newer 850….but it seems not!!
Bottom line, I’d be super cautious before even contemplating purchasing a Weber powered Williams!!!!
jrudge
Well-known member
The exhaust parts have been out of stock for close to a year I believe. The rest of the stuff I think ( on think) is fine but the exhaust is a specific marine part ( also found in jet ski).
The main thing is to flush it or the exhaust will corrode.
I dont think it has anything to with any lack of relationship with willams,
I assume the exhaust is leaking sea water and the turbo is salting up? Bear in mind the catalyser can be removed without issues ( I have removed mine) but you do need the housing for the water jacket.
The main thing is to flush it or the exhaust will corrode.
I dont think it has anything to with any lack of relationship with willams,
I assume the exhaust is leaking sea water and the turbo is salting up? Bear in mind the catalyser can be removed without issues ( I have removed mine) but you do need the housing for the water jacket.
Peterlewis321
Active member
A year…..crikey that fills me with dread…..
Apparently the turbo was OK. I really need to ask the dealer where the seawater has come from…. we always freshwater flushed before putting away…..yes there were times when we were on anchor for 2-3 days and left the Williams afloat but still we fresh water flushed before putting back in the garage (and surely an occasional few hours ‘static’ in the sea literally a handful of times per year should not cause major damage like this?).
Who else does Textron sell these (marine) engines to…..especially now that Williams no longer buy them for their new builds (that was my point about the relationship)?
jrudge
Well-known member
The 850 is I believe now obsolete as well. They are used in Jet Ski etc the world over and that will have the same manifold,.
So what issue is the dealer seeking to fix if the turbo was not salting up ?
So what issue is the dealer seeking to fix if the turbo was not salting up ?
Peterlewis321
Active member
I guess I need to ask some more questions of the dealer. But my understanding was the turbo was OK and perhaps the issue (leak) was discovered just in time to avoid damaging it….but the catalyser etc was all so badly corroded it cannot be reused/reinstalled. See pics.
Attachments
jrudge
Well-known member
The catalyser itself clogs up. Just remove the core with a chisel and hammer and install the edge ring. I did this as it strengthened the join, you may get away with just leaving it out all together.. It makes no difference and you get no error codes.
The catalyser itself looks fine. if you want to clean it up use a bit of brick cleaner for 30 seconds, Dont leave it long as acid reacts with aluminium. If it leaks it does not matter anyway - any water just goes out the exhaust. There is not salt on it. The manifold is likely fine.
Gaskets
405102 - catalyser to exhaust manifold
407888 - exhaust cooler to catalyser
They are pence.
Mine was losing power and that was the issue.
If the turbo is not salting up manifold is not leaking. Just put it back together - you will need a new gasket.
To take to bits, remove catalyser and out it back together is about 2 hours work,
The catalyser itself looks fine. if you want to clean it up use a bit of brick cleaner for 30 seconds, Dont leave it long as acid reacts with aluminium. If it leaks it does not matter anyway - any water just goes out the exhaust. There is not salt on it. The manifold is likely fine.
Gaskets
405102 - catalyser to exhaust manifold
407888 - exhaust cooler to catalyser
They are pence.
Mine was losing power and that was the issue.
If the turbo is not salting up manifold is not leaking. Just put it back together - you will need a new gasket.
To take to bits, remove catalyser and out it back together is about 2 hours work,
Hurricane
Well-known member
It seems you are in Spain.
Brick cleaner might be difficult to get.
So, just go to any Spanish supermarket and buy some Agua Fuerte.
This is the brand that Mercadonna supply
You would probably not be allowed to buy this in the UK
But, in Spain most supermarkets sell the stuff.
BUT
BE VERY CAREFUL with it.
Keep it away from your eyes and wash off immediately if it gets in contact with your skin.
If you've not used it before, it is amazing.
It dissolves anything with a calcium build up including barnacles etc.
As jrudge says, don't leave it too long or it will attack the aluminum as well.
I suggest pouring into an old clean jam jar and painting it on with a paint brush.
Keep painting (replacing the acid that is in contact with the area being cleaned)
Then wash of with lots of clean water.
I clean lots of things using it - props when the boat is lifted and even sea water filters.
Just rinse thoroughly after.
These are the props after a session with Agua Fuerte
Brick cleaner might be difficult to get.
So, just go to any Spanish supermarket and buy some Agua Fuerte.
This is the brand that Mercadonna supply
You would probably not be allowed to buy this in the UK
But, in Spain most supermarkets sell the stuff.
BUT
BE VERY CAREFUL with it.
Keep it away from your eyes and wash off immediately if it gets in contact with your skin.
If you've not used it before, it is amazing.
It dissolves anything with a calcium build up including barnacles etc.
As jrudge says, don't leave it too long or it will attack the aluminum as well.
I suggest pouring into an old clean jam jar and painting it on with a paint brush.
Keep painting (replacing the acid that is in contact with the area being cleaned)
Then wash of with lots of clean water.
I clean lots of things using it - props when the boat is lifted and even sea water filters.
Just rinse thoroughly after.
These are the props after a session with Agua Fuerte
jrudge
Well-known member
exactly that ! But the part is aluminium, It is fine for a short blast but you dont want more than 30 sec to 1 min tops
Peterlewis321
Active member
Thanks for this guidance…..maybe the Williams dealer is doing it ‘by the book’ and only following the ‘replace everything’ philosophy that often goes with an OEM approved repair. I will be back in Spain in 3 weeks and assuming no change in the mean time on parts then I’ll investigate your suggestion. Once again, many thanks!!!
Peterlewis321
Active member
You are correct-boat is down in Denia. I’ll get some of this magic stuff at the local Mercadona. Thanks for the suggestion
jrudge
Well-known member
Yes they will do it buy the book. They also won’t just delete the catalyst.
They typically remove the engine for anything and then you need new mounts.
Just get it back and put it back together. It won’t take long.
They typically remove the engine for anything and then you need new mounts.
Just get it back and put it back together. It won’t take long.
Hurricane
Well-known member
Or the Spar sell a slightly stronger version in an orange bottle.You are correct-boat is down in Denia. I’ll get some of this magic stuff at the local Mercadona. Thanks for the suggestion
ARance
New member
Evening all, got a couple of questions.
Is it normal to get exhaust overheat light when running on the hose for a few mins? Fine in the water but noticed this today?
Also what size anchor is the 285 supplied with from new? The current one I feel may be overkill…. Thanks in advance.
Is it normal to get exhaust overheat light when running on the hose for a few mins? Fine in the water but noticed this today?
Also what size anchor is the 285 supplied with from new? The current one I feel may be overkill…. Thanks in advance.
jrudge
Well-known member
No but
The manual says don’t run on the hose for more than 1min.
I assume there is water flowing out the back ? I can’t think why it would overheat with decent hose pressure. If you put your hand on it it should be warm but not so hot you can’t hold your hand in place.
They are not supplied with an anchor. I have an open up grappling type with 2 m of chain that works well
The manual says don’t run on the hose for more than 1min.
I assume there is water flowing out the back ? I can’t think why it would overheat with decent hose pressure. If you put your hand on it it should be warm but not so hot you can’t hold your hand in place.
They are not supplied with an anchor. I have an open up grappling type with 2 m of chain that works well
ARance
New member
Thank you for the reply!
Think my hose was just a bit low pressure. Ran the boat yesterday and the manifold hardly got warm.
I have found my leak! It’s a steady stream from the nut on the steering control fixing on the transom. Had a new cable fitted by a Williams dealer recently so a bit annoying!
I going to seal it up and wonder the best way to achieve. On the outside there is a nut, then a small amount of exposed thread and then a rubber seal, would you suggest sealing all parts including the seal or just the nut and exposed thread? Also any suggestions to the best product to use? Thinking I will also do the same on the jet bucket control side.
So handy to have you guys to ask
Think my hose was just a bit low pressure. Ran the boat yesterday and the manifold hardly got warm.
I have found my leak! It’s a steady stream from the nut on the steering control fixing on the transom. Had a new cable fitted by a Williams dealer recently so a bit annoying!
I going to seal it up and wonder the best way to achieve. On the outside there is a nut, then a small amount of exposed thread and then a rubber seal, would you suggest sealing all parts including the seal or just the nut and exposed thread? Also any suggestions to the best product to use? Thinking I will also do the same on the jet bucket control side.
So handy to have you guys to ask
jrudge
Well-known member
Call the dealer and tell them to sort it. They broke it
ARance
New member
I text him yesterday and explained the issue! He did the work for the previous owner, or else he would have insisted he sorted it!
I was super polite and explained the issue and ask for the best option and his reply! Well seal it up then.
So I turn to the group for advice
I was super polite and explained the issue and ask for the best option and his reply! Well seal it up then.
So I turn to the group for advice
ARance
New member
Good afternoon, our 285 ran really well yesterday, started well this morning and a few seconds later the whole boat died. It was as if I had turned the electric key off. I checked the fuses next to the main electric switch and all looked fine, It then came back to life and has been fine for the rest of the day. Has anyone had the same issue?
jrudge
Well-known member
I would start with the kill switch.
