A Williams Jet Rib Guide

[jrudge]

That is not a marine list of faults so you need to check you are reading the correct manual

The video you posted showed it pulsing. The only limp mode have personally experienced is a power reduction to 2000 rpm isa and it does this by going to one cylinder.

The issue is anything can be the issue. The computer looks at the system and ( may or may not) say what is wrong. Outside of that you are down to ( cheap) parts changing which is not scientific but can help fix it.

These engines are in use is off road sand buggies, jet ski, etc so a local jet ski dealer will likely have a reader.

There are 2 Williams dealers in Florida.

I think in my opening thread I said I would not be keen on owning a Williams where there was no support. You can fix a lot , but in the end just like a modern car without the diagnostics to use a US term is it a crap shoot.

 

[Alindquist]

That is from the Marine Service manual. The closest listed Williams dealer is Ft. Myers, which is 8-9 hours away... Not exactly convenient, I really wish I could get my hands on a scanner. At this point I'm just tossing things against the wall and seeing if anything sticks. But thank you for your help.

 

[Alindquist]

UPDATE: I got the boat working!!!
I wanted to follow up in case someone anyone else has a similar problem. My issue ended up being the CAM position sensor (part 402701). If you can get your hands on the Diagnostic manual (I found it somewhere online) there is a procedure for getting the codes without a computer. It's a little cryptic but after a little practice it's actually pretty easy. Anyhow the boat seems to running properly. With myself (190 lbs) and a buddy (around 165 lbs) I was seeing round 6600 rmp's and 42-43 mph. I'm guessing this is about right and with just me I would pick up a 2-3 mph's which would put me right around what William's says I should be. I am still showing another error for the Lamda 2 (O2) sensor which I have replaced and will test again this coming weekend.
I do need to replace the steering cable as it's very sticky and heavy (borderline dangerous, but we made do.)
I will add that this little boat is fun as hell and I'm excited to run it again.
Thank you for the help

 

[Peterlewis321]

Congrats!!! I’d certainly be interested to read the fault code/diagnostic manual if you would share that (I could not find it online)?

UPDATE: I got the boat working!!!
I wanted to follow up in case someone anyone else has a similar problem. My issue ended up being the CAM position sensor (part 402701). If you can get your hands on the Diagnostic manual (I found it somewhere online) there is a procedure for getting the codes without a computer. It's a little cryptic but after a little practice it's actually pretty easy. Anyhow the boat seems to running properly. With myself (190 lbs) and a buddy (around 165 lbs) I was seeing round 6600 rmp's and 42-43 mph. I'm guessing this is about right and with just me I would pick up a 2-3 mph's which would put me right around what William's says I should be. I am still showing another error for the Lamda 2 (O2) sensor which I have replaced and will test again this coming weekend.
I do need to replace the steering cable as it's very sticky and heavy (borderline dangerous, but we made do.)
I will add that this little boat is fun as hell and I'm excited to run it again.
Thank you for the help

 

[ARance]

A very interesting read, if I hadn't always wanted one I may be put off! So just about to begin my Williams journey with a 2014 285 turbo jet, she's covered 41 hours with a recent service and a few new parts. I am planning on bringing her up to as close to new as I can, had a chat with Williams today and they were really helpful. The sea trail was fun and the boat performed well two up, after a 30min run I lifted the helm and placed my hand on the manifold which was warm but not hot, it seemed to warm a little more whilst she was sitting at tick over but never got hot. One thing before we took her out I noticed some water in the bilge probably 1 pint or so, didn't look much and bellow the level the bilge pump will discharge. The current owner was upfront and said then when it was in the water the day before he noticed a trickle appearing where the bilge pump sits or just ahead, he suspected the pump but as the pump discharge outlet sits above the water line I am thinking it cannot be the issue. I spoke to a service centre today and they agreed it is not lightly to be the pump. They suggested checking the ends of the heat exchanger. Has anyone had a similar issue ? lightly cause ? I will apologise for my lack of mechanical knowledge and would very much appreciate any advise in laymen's terms. I have checked through the links along the way and hopefully they will be handy! Also can anyone advise how to check the level and if required fill the oil reservoir for the shaft seal. Regards Adam

 

[jrudge]

Taste it. Fresh or salt?

Fresh - condensation / rain water. Condensation can be surprising. When storing for winter use a small wood block to allow the engine compartment to vent a bit.

Salt - crack in hull or shaft seal. Crack unlikely. Shaft seal is just grease pumps into it. The newer ones have an auto greaser it is on the right as you sit in the seat. The things aren to in the water long enough to worry about a seal leak. Could be something in the salt water cooling circuit but that should be obvious with slat marks / drips. Fresh water coolant is pink so that will be obvious as well.

Not sure what pump you refer to? Bilge pump ? If pumps it out not in and the discharge is unlikely to have water flowing into it.

 

[ARance]

Taste it. Fresh or salt?

Fresh - condensation / rain water. Condensation can be surprising. When storing for winter use a small wood block to allow the engine compartment to vent a bit.

Salt - crack in hull or shaft seal. Crack unlikely. Shaft seal is just grease pumps into it. The newer ones have an auto greaser it is on the right as you sit in the seat. The things aren to in the water long enough to worry about a seal leak. Could be something in the salt water cooling circuit but that should be obvious with slat marks / drips. Fresh water coolant is pink so that will be obvious as well.

Not sure what pump you refer to? Bilge pump ? If pumps it out not in and the discharge is unlikely to have water flowing into

Taste it. Fresh or salt?

Fresh - condensation / rain water. Condensation can be surprising. When storing for winter use a small wood block to allow the engine compartment to vent a bit.

Salt - crack in hull or shaft seal. Crack unlikely. Shaft seal is just grease pumps into it. The newer ones have an auto greaser it is on the right as you sit in the seat. The things aren to in the water long enough to worry about a seal leak. Could be something in the salt water cooling circuit but that should be obvious with slat marks / drips. Fresh water coolant is pink so that will be obvious as well.

Not sure what pump you refer to? Bilge pump ? If pumps it out not in and the discharge is unlikely to have water flowing into it.

Amazing thank you, will check all that out!
I cannot attach a picture but would like to understand what this part is, from memory it is missing! On the manifold, near the top facing forward, It has a sliver fitting then black cable / pipe and goes into the port side of the engine. on the forward side of the manifold? Could be a temp sender, think it’s snapped off!

Regards
Adam

 

[jrudge]

You need to attach a picture I have no idea from the description. If a sensor is missing the engine will not be happy.

 

[ARance]

You need to attach a picture I have no idea from the description. If a sensor is missing the engine will not be happy.

Hi sorry I didn’t see the option to attach an image! I do now.
So the part in picture is a second lambda sensor, mine has been cut off. Now discovered when the ECU is updated that second sensor becomes obsolete.

 

[jrudge]

That is correct. Only one is active. The one furthest from the engine is not active.

 

[ARance]

That is correct. Only one is active. The one furthest from the engine is not active.

Yes it had me a bit worried there. This water in the bilge, I need to have a good look when the boat arrives but the current owner has said the trickle started before the engine was run, guessing that would discount the heat exchanger suggested to me. It’s been out of the water a year and in a garage. The hull looks OK apart from scratches but I am confused with water appearing and looking to come from forward of the bilge pump

 

[vas]

could there be a non-return valve somewhere in the pipework from pump to exit and that's failing? but only a set amount of water (what's in the pipework) would come in and then stop since there's no route for outside water to the pump exit - cannot be below waterline obvs

 

[ARance]

could there be a non-return valve somewhere in the pipework from pump to exit and that's failing? but only a set amount of water (what's in the pipework) would come in and then stop since there's no route for outside water to the pump exit - cannot be below waterline obvs

Thanks Vas, yes the discharge is above the water line, there is a diaphragm in the pump. I’m going to replace that and several other parts. It’s new to us and I am wanting to bring it up to as new looking as possible, it runs really well and has been quite well serviced so worth inviting in. Pop it back in the water and with a good torch try to locate.
Regards
Adam

 

[jrudge]

This is the bilge pump. I replaced mine a few months ago. It is not a diaphragm pump

Whale SS5212 Supersub Smart Auto Bilge Water Pump│12V│650GPH│For Boat Marine 766478943255 | eBay

 

[ARance]

Evening, well 12 hours spent today cleaning the new toy.
A few questions if you please
1, The small gasket part on the jet bucket control rod in photo, I need to replace, could this leak into the boat by being worn?
2, Under the helm spotted 2 things! There is a small black electric plug type thing? Any ideas….
3, The mastic on top of the Fiberglass housing on the left? Do they all look like this or just a poor repair?
4, The speedo and Rev counter, they are in good condition and both work, the have a little condensation, is this an age thing or will new also suffer from this.

Regards
Adam

 

[jrudge]

1. No that just keeps salt water out of the line to stop it seizing. You say you need to replace it ? Just call Williams. It is a pig of a job and they have a special tool. Your steering is seized I assume

2. Likely a diagnostic socket but I am not sure where your picture is taken.

3. No idea as I don’t know where the area is.

4. They all mist up. Eventually they fail

 

[ARance]

Hi thanks for the reply.
It’s on the jet bucket control rod, it’s still nice and smooth, I thought I would be able to just purchase a new black gasket rather than replace.
The pic is directly under the helm seat and the fibreglass housing is against the transom.
Will just wait until the gauges fail in that case!

Regards
Adam

 

[ARance]

Hi guys, on the 285 turbo jet would you know if the exhaust overheat light illuminates temporarily when the ignition is switched on? The warning light next to it comes on briefly with the oil temp light. The service light also doesn’t come on. I’ve switched the bulb units over so not that. Any ideas?

 

[jrudge]

I will check in a few hours. The service light is turned off by the scanner connected by Williams when they service it. Someone else services it. Stays on.

 

[jrudge]

No it does not come on