Steel boat build - Almarine 1200fa

[Mr Googler]

But your wife and my wife sound exactly the same....we could be a match made in heaven

Different forum

 

[Greg2]

Interesting choice going for the HT6.354. We had a pair in a Broom Ocean 37 and as I am sure you are aware, oil leaks are to be expected and parts can be a challenge to ordinary beings but, I suspect, not for you!

I completely get why you opted for them and having done a full re-build I think you can be confident that you will have a reliable power train. I am a bit of a Perkins fan - we have the M265ti engines in our boat and love the simplicity, being able to do stuff myself and service items being as cheap as chips.
.

 

[colhel]

Get your friend to do a thread too! ??

I tried answering this the other day but the forum crashed on me.
I don't know about @JOHNPEET but my mate needed some help on a lot of the specialist stuff like the hydraulics and codings but most of all on rigging, chain plates etc as the forces on these are astronomical. Due to the length of time to build for various reasons the consultants came and went and in one case, died. The point being you need to follow a set path as much as possible and throwing it open to a forum can lead to distractions and know matter how well intentioned, poor advice given. That was more or less his view and remains so.
I think I said that rather more politely than him and used far more words ?

 

[Mr Googler]

I tried answering this the other day but the forum crashed on me.
I don't know about @JOHNPEET but my mate needed some help on a lot of the specialist stuff like the hydraulics and codings but most of all on rigging, chain plates etc as the forces on these are astronomical. Due to the length of time to build for various reasons the consultants came and went and in one case, died. The point being you need to follow a set path as much as possible and throwing it open to a forum can lead to distractions and know matter how well intentioned, poor advice given. That was more or less his view and remains so.
I think I said that rather more politely than him and used far more words ?

I get that. This thread is good as it’s already been done so, us “arm chair experts” don’t have an opportunity to cock things up.

When I do my rebuild threads…..I’ve pretty much already decided what I’m doing and just share the journey for those interested / bored. There are often some good bits of advice from fellow forumites along the way though ?

 

[JOHNPEET]

Today’s instalment covers the fresh water tanks. The tanks are GRP. I initially fabricated a male plug from MDF, the surface of which was then sealed with a proprietry sealer and numerous coats of mould release wax were applied and polished off. Two coats of polyester gel coat were then applied followed by 10 layers of 450g CSM giving a final thickness of 10mm to the tank walls. The plug was fabricated such that when the tank was taken off the mould, it would have slots within it for the internal baffles to fit. The baffles were cut out of a 10mm lamination of GRP which was laid up over a flat sheet of sealed MDF. The cut pieces being trimmed to size and glassed in to the tank.. A coat of Topcoat was applied where the baffles had been glassed in. The tank lids were laid up in a similar way and glassed on forming the completed tank. Additional supporting steelwork was fitted within the boat immediately in front of the engine space bulkhead and the tanks fitted athwartships within the boat. The black water tank was made in a similar way albeit over a different plug, with that tank being installed deep down in the vee of the hull beneath the floor of the forward section of the boat.

The space between the two tanks is for the 110litre hot water calorifier which can be seen in one of the photos. I don’t seem to have a photo of it in its final position.

 

[Mr Googler]

So now you make plugs and fibreglass as well! This is a mental level of skill for a DIYer ?

When you said it took 11 years…..I thought that seems a long time. Given what you’ve done thus far singlehanded…..it doesn’t.

 

[JOHNPEET]

I tried answering this the other day but the forum crashed on me.
I don't know about @JOHNPEET but my mate needed some help on a lot of the specialist stuff like the hydraulics and codings but most of all on rigging, chain plates etc as the forces on these are astronomical. Due to the length of time to build for various reasons the consultants came and went and in one case, died. The point being you need to follow a set path as much as possible and throwing it open to a forum can lead to distractions and know matter how well intentioned, poor advice given. That was more or less his view and remains so.
I think I said that rather more politely than him and used far more words ?

As I‘ve built a motor boat, some of the technical areas that you’ve mentioned are obviously not relevant for my project. You’re right about the length of build time being an issue though. For me, it was the fact that Bonito Boats BV was sold a few years after I started. The previous owner/designer continued supplying kits for a couple of years and then retired. Although still contactable, I have tried to not bother him too much.

I got turned off from the forums in the early days due to some very mixed reactions/responses on my project. I enjoy engaging with people who are genuinely interested and I value the ideas and even the constructive criticism, but I really struggle with people who just seem to want to bring you down for their own apparent enjoyment! This has been good so far though ??

 

[Bouba]

Today’s instalment covers the fresh water tanks. The tanks are GRP. I initially fabricated a male plug from MDF, the surface of which was then sealed with a proprietry sealer and numerous coats of mould release wax were applied and polished off. Two coats of polyester gel coat were then applied followed by 10 layers of 450g CSM giving a final thickness of 10mm to the tank walls. The plug was fabricated such that when the tank was taken off the mould, it would have slots within it for the internal baffles to fit. The baffles were cut out of a 10mm lamination of GRP which was laid up over a flat sheet of sealed MDF. The cut pieces being trimmed to size and glassed in to the tank.. A coat of Topcoat was applied where the baffles had been glassed in. The tank lids were laid up in a similar way and glassed on forming the completed tank. Additional supporting steelwork was fitted within the boat immediately in front of the engine space bulkhead and the tanks fitted athwartships within the boat. The black water tank was made in a similar way albeit over a different plug, with that tank being installed deep down in the vee of the hull beneath the floor of the forward section of the boat.

The space between the two tanks is for the 110litre hot water calorifier which can be seen in one of the photos. I don’t seem to have a photo of it in its final position.

View attachment 133034View attachment 133035View attachment 133036View attachment 133037View attachment 133038View attachment 133039View attachment 133040View attachment 133042View attachment 133045

I was thinking, ‘my gosh this fella isn’t buying a thing, he makes everything!’.....then I saw the water heater and felt better?

 

[Bouba]

The point being you need to follow a set path as much as possible and throwing it open to a forum can lead to distractions and know matter how well intentioned, poor advice given. That was more or less his view and remains so.
I think I said that rather more politely than him and used far more words ?

Yes, I can confirm that despite their good intentions they can cost you a season ?

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Yes, I can confirm that despite their good intentions they can cost you a season ?

Porkies again you were told 5 months ago engine out

 

[Bouba]

Today’s instalment covers the fresh water tanks. The tanks are GRP. I initially fabricated a male plug from MDF, the surface of which was then sealed with a proprietry sealer and numerous coats of mould release wax were applied and polished off. Two coats of polyester gel coat were then applied followed by 10 layers of 450g CSM giving a final thickness of 10mm to the tank walls. The plug was fabricated such that when the tank was taken off the mould, it would have slots within it for the internal baffles to fit. The baffles were cut out of a 10mm lamination of GRP which was laid up over a flat sheet of sealed MDF. The cut pieces being trimmed to size and glassed in to the tank.. A coat of Topcoat was applied where the baffles had been glassed in. The tank lids were laid up in a similar way and glassed on forming the completed tank. Additional supporting steelwork was fitted within the boat immediately in front of the engine space bulkhead and the tanks fitted athwartships within the boat. The black water tank was made in a similar way albeit over a different plug, with that tank being installed deep down in the vee of the hull beneath the floor of the forward section of the boat.

The space between the two tanks is for the 110litre hot water calorifier which can be seen in one of the photos. I don’t seem to have a photo of it in its final position.

View attachment 133034View attachment 133035View attachment 133036View attachment 133037View attachment 133038View attachment 133039View attachment 133040View attachment 133042View attachment 133045

I know I am jumping the gun but...when you finished did you get full height engine and services room?

 

[Croftie]

I know I am jumping the gun but...when you finished did you get full height engine and services room?

patience young grasshopper

 

[JOHNPEET]

I know I am jumping the gun but...when you finished did you get full height engine and services room?

Mmmm, not sure what you mean by a “full height” engine and services room! In the photo that shows the hot water calorifier,just aft of the bulkhead that you can see is the engine space. The top of that bulkhead is the floor level in the saloon area. Above each engine is a large hinged hatch on gas springs (approx 1.8m x 0.9m) which gives good access to the top of the engines and being HT’s, that’s where most of the ancillary bits and pieces are. I can also squeeze down into the engine space through either of the hatches and I can crawl between the engines (about 1.0 M height) and across the front of each engine. Access to the rear of the engine and gearboxes is very good and further aft is the generator in the centre, diesel heater, WC flush pumps, raw water filters and other bits and pieces. Outboard side of the engines is tighter and would require a few bits and pieces to be removed prior to any serious work being undertaken if not accessible from the top.

Access to the fresh water tank inspection/cleaning access points (not yet installed in today’s photos) are via hatches in the floor as is the hot water calorifier. The steps leading down to the forward section of the boat are also hinged and allow access to the front side of the calorifier and other ancillary equipment such as the water services pressure pump, forward section bilge pump, black water change over valve ( pump out or vac).

All to be revealed in future instalments! ?

 

[JOHNPEET]

Ok, a sneak preview of the engine space!

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Congratulations on a magnificent build and well managed project.

 

[Bouba]

Mmmm, not sure what you mean by a “full height” engine and services room! In the photo that shows the hot water calorifier,just aft of the bulkhead that you can see is the engine space. The top of that bulkhead is the floor level in the saloon area. Above each engine is a large hinged hatch on gas springs (approx 1.8m x 0.9m) which gives good access to the top of the engines and being HT’s, that’s where most of the ancillary bits and pieces are. I can also squeeze down into the engine space through either of the hatches and I can crawl between the engines (about 1.0 M height) and across the front of each engine. Access to the rear of the engine and gearboxes is very good and further aft is the generator in the centre, diesel heater, WC flush pumps, raw water filters and other bits and pieces. Outboard side of the engines is tighter and would require a few bits and pieces to be removed prior to any serious work being undertaken if not accessible from the top.

Access to the fresh water tank inspection/cleaning access points (not yet installed in today’s photos) are via hatches in the floor as is the hot water calorifier. The steps leading down to the forward section of the boat are also hinged and allow access to the front side of the calorifier and other ancillary equipment such as the water services pressure pump, forward section bilge pump, black water change over valve ( pump out or vac).

All to be revealed in future instalments! ?

It all looks really good. The reason I ask is that my boat is similar in layout to yours (and size)...and when I got the boat (and it wasn’t that long ago) I could easily crawl around the engine...now I can’t in fact the other day I got stuck ? and it was a little distressing trying to work out how I will get out or whether I will finish my days under the engine hatch..
I dream of a walk-in engine room with a walk around engine...of course this means I dream of a Nordhavn but like most people on this planet, I can’t afford one?.
Keep up the reporting...it’s a very entertaining thread??

 

[JOHNPEET]

Congratulations on a magnificent build and well managed project.

Kind words indeed ?

 

[JOHNPEET]

It all looks really good. The reason I ask is that my boat is similar in layout to yours (and size)...and when I got the boat (and it wasn’t that long ago) I could easily crawl around the engine...now I can’t ☹ in fact the other day I got stuck ? and it was a little distressing trying to work out how I will get out or whether I will finish my days under the engine hatch..
I dream of a walk-in engine room with a walk around engine...of course this means I dream of a Nordhavn but like most people on this planet, I can’t afford one?.
Keep up the reporting...it’s a very entertaining thread??

Maybe my next build will be big enough to have the walk around engine room! ??

in the meantime - my plan for future proofing when I get to the point where I can’t get in the engine space, is to direct a remote control family member (one of two sons in laws)! In return, they can have the boat when I become too old and frail to climb aboard! ?

 

[Bouba]

Maybe my next build will be big enough to have the walk around engine room! ??

in the meantime - my plan for future proofing when I get to the point where I can’t get in the engine space, is to direct a remote control family member (one of two sons in laws)! In return, they can have the boat when I become too old and frail to climb aboard! ?

When they repealed the child labour laws they left us boat owners without a suitable workforce

 

[Hurricane]

Just a quick question at this stage.
I thought that GRP (I assume Polyester) shrinks "big time" when you mould it round a plug like the one you made for the tanks.
I thought in those cases, you had to make the plug dismantleable or the GRP "grips/squeezes it too tight to get the plug out.
How did you manage to mould the tanks? maybe slight tapers to the plugs???