Steel boat build - Almarine 1200fa

[JOHNPEET]

Hang fire….got to find out if it floats yet ?

The launch is likely to be a very private affair! ??

 

[JOHNPEET]

Yep, as I said earlier it is incredible how John does the jobs of several trades to such a high standard - electrics being the latest!

I am scrutinising each post in the hope that I find something that indicates that he is a mere mortal - perhaps a woodwork joint that isn’t quite right or maybe just a bit of cutting in on the paintwork that is slightly untidy but no, he continues to make us all feel totally inadequate! ?

Things always look better in photos! ??

 

[Hurricane]

Sorry, yes - there is also a stand alone start battery for the generator which is charged off the generator engine alternator ?

AFAIK that is exactly how most production boats arrange their generato start batteries.
Personally, I think that is a mistake.
Most boats don't run their generators for months on end.
So the generator start battery gets forgotten and is often flat when you need it the most.
A "jump start" option from one of the other batteries might be an answer or, as I do a separate "trickle charger" purely for the generator battery.

 

[JOHNPEET]

AFAIK that is exactly how most production boats arrange their generato start batteries.
Personally, I think that is a mistake.
Most boats don't run their generators for months on end.
So the generator start battery gets forgotten and is often flat when you need it the most.
A "jump start" option from one of the other batteries might be an answer or, as I do a separate "trickle charger" purely for the generator battery.

I think the separate trickle charger would be the way to go for me too - I like that option!

 

[JOHNPEET]

Tonight’s instalment covers the AC system and the access steps and cabinetry that hides it away.
I provided an overview of the electrical systems within last night‘s instalment, but here’s a little bit more info regarding safety etc.

I mentioned in my last post that the shore power comes aboard via an isolation transformer. The shore power earth is not connected to anything within the the isolation transformer. On the secondary side of the transformer, one leg of the output winding becomes a combined neutral and earth for the boat supply, with the other leg being the live conductor. A separate Neutral and Earth is then run within the boat’s 240v electrical systems. All final circuits on the 240v system are protected by an RCD thus providing earth leakage protection on board. The AC earth is electrically bonded to the DC neg bus and the DC neg bus is electrically bonded to the steel hull at a single point only. So that means if any of the AC voltage leaks onto the DC system, or the steelwork of the hull - the RCDs will detect the imbalance between live and neutral and trip. Apart from the single bond on the hull, the steelwork is kept electrically separate from the AC and DC systems. This is to prevent current from flowing through the steel and becoming a galvanic corrosion problem. The single point of bonding can be disconnected periodically and tested to ensure that the hull remains electrically isolated. Anyone that has looked into the issues around isolation transformers will appreciate their benefits.

Now the photos!

 

[Bouba]

Tonight’s instalment covers the AC system and the access steps and cabinetry that hides it away.
I provided an overview of the electrical systems within last night‘s instalment, but here’s a little bit more info regarding safety etc.

I mentioned in my last post that the shore power comes aboard via an isolation transformer. The shore power earth is not connected to anything within the the isolation transformer. On the secondary side of the transformer, one leg of the output winding becomes a combined neutral and earth for the boat supply, with the other leg being the live conductor. A separate Neutral and Earth is then run within the boat’s 240v electrical systems. All final circuits on the 240v system are protected by an RCD thus providing earth leakage protection on board. The AC earth is electrically bonded to the DC neg bus and the DC neg bus is electrically bonded to the steel hull at a single point only. So that means if any of the AC voltage leaks onto the DC system, or the steelwork of the hull - the RCDs will detect the imbalance between live and neutral and trip. Apart from the single bond on the hull, the steelwork is kept electrically separate from the AC and DC systems. This is to prevent current from flowing through the steel and becoming a galvanic corrosion problem. The single point of bonding can be disconnected periodically and tested to ensure that the hull remains electrically isolated. Anyone that has looked into the issues around isolation transformers will appreciate their benefits.

Now the photos!

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Have you checked to see if your dog can get up and down those steps?

 

[JOHNPEET]

Have you checked to see if your dog can get up and down those steps?

Fortunately, that is one element of the commissioning tests that I won’t need to worry about! ??

 

[Boathook]

Have you checked to see if your dog can get up and down those steps?

Thats in the next installment. Installation of custom built dogflap and associated ramps.

 

[Hurricane]

I think the separate trickle charger would be the way to go for me too - I like that option!

I don't have an isolation transformer or, in fact, galvanic isolators. So I am a bit paranoid about earth loops. To this end. I fitted isolation switches on each lead to the generator battery. Then connected the trickle charger to the isolated battery. So, when I leave the boat, the trickle charger is only connected to the battery and not to the ship's earth. I just have to remember to close the isolation switches when I disconnect the charger. It has been like that for 14 years and no sign of galvanic corrosion - yet.
I've done the same thing for the tender battery so that remains fully charged as well.

 

[Anthony]

View attachment 134475

Great work as always, might want to keep an eye on those self adhesive cable tie down pads, Personally, I have found that no matter the brand sooner or later they peel off then the loom is left hanging by its terminations, so I prefer to put a small screw in each.

 

[JOHNPEET]

For anyone that may be interested, this article explains the benefits of isolation transformers:

Why You Should Add an Isolation Transformer to your Boat

 

[JOHNPEET]

Great work as always, might want to keep an eye on those self adhesive cable tie down pads, Personally, I have found that no matter the brand sooner or later they peel off then the loom is left hanging by its terminations, so I prefer to put a small screw in each.

Yes, agreed! Some have now got screws in!

 

[Croftie]

I don't have an isolation transformer or, in fact, galvanic isolators.

Remember John's boat is steel so above is prob more important than on a GRP vessel for both his boat and stray electric currents affecting nearby craft.

 

[JOHNPEET]

Remember John's boat is steel so above is prob more important than on a GRP vessel for both his boat and stray electric currents affecting nearby craft.

But remember that there are two aspects to the reasons for fitting an isolation transformer - see link in my post above

 

[Croftie]

But remember that there are two aspects to the reasons for fitting an isolation transformer - see link in my post above

Yup, I used to have a Dutch steel boat

 

[JOHNPEET]

Yup, I used to have a Dutch steel boat

The safety aspect applies to any boat - not just steel ones!

 

[JOHNPEET]

Cabin entry door!

After receiving some eye wateringly expensive quotes for a custom made alloy cabin entry door I decided that it was time to break out the wood working tools again! On this occasion, oak was certainly not going to be the timber of choice due to its ability to turn black when it gets wet! So Iroko it was! A naturally oily wood with well proven ability to resist rot etc. when Iroko is cut or machined, the freshly cut surface colour is almost yellow, but quite quickly turns a rich golden brown when exposed to the sunlight. I made the frame as a single piece assembly which was then fixed in position as a unit. Prior to fitting, the frame, doors and hatch lid received 10 coats of Epifanes high gloss varnish. Not my favourite type of finish, but one that was needed in this instance. The ”windows are 8mm tinted Perspex which is rebated into the frames and sealed with Sikaflex after they were varnished and have a flush finish. On the hatch lid in particular, this means no standing water on the frame. There will be a weatherproof cover fitted to the hatch lid when the boat is left unattended, just to try and preserve the finish. Although not shown in the photos, the hatch lid is now fitted with gas struts.

 

[Mr Googler]

I think a bit of wood work on the boat externally looks really nice! Lovely job as ever

 

[Bouba]

John, does the boat designer say if you need any ballast?

 

[JOHNPEET]

John, does the boat designer say if you need any ballast?

Only for trim as I understand.