Salcombe - some days it's better to... (long post)

BrendanS

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Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

This one's for Haydn, who thinks we don't post enough boating adventures anymore. Thank you for the hospitality on MuckyFarter.

Pathfinder Powerboat Club arranged a meet in the West Country for the Bank Holiday week. I decided to cruise down in my 21’er from Lymington, and meet those that were trailering down and meet them at Salcombe, then return on the Sunday or Monday. A few of the larger boats were also cruising, but were going for the week, so were going to stop off at Weymouth overnight on Saturday, and I didn’t have the time to take a couple of days each way. Haydn and Longjohnsilver were possibly going to be there.

Sat:
Set off from Lymington, Tutts called on mobile to ask what sea was like - not sure, still in Solent. Topped up with petrol in Yarmouth and filled three 20l containers, then out through Needles channel, with a course set to head several miles outside of St Albans and Portland to avoid the races. Conditions weren’t really that bad, but I was headed straight into the wind, and a nasty short chop, which meant I couldn’t maintain anything much above 12knts, and was slamming very heavily. Going cross or downwind was comfortable, but wasn’t going to get me to Salcombe. Battled on across outside Poole Bay. Broke loose several screws on the base of the windscreen. Stopped and screwed them back in with plenty of PTFE tape round screws. Then hinge screws of cabin door also loosened. Then smashed nose on windscreen and wondered if broken.

After what seemed an age of getting battered and bruised, decided that getting to Salcombe in these conditions was going to be horrible, and I’d run out petrol well before then, as I need to be up at around 30 for best fuel economy. Called PPC organizer and said I wasn’t coming. Decided what to do, and headed over towards Weymouth, would see there if they had any berths, and if not could head back to Lymington as plenty of time. As I went on a big cloud system came over, and the sea flattened out. Picked up speed, and heading for Weymouth at a decent speed, suddenly heard nasty horrible noise from engine. Panicked. Look around. Hmm, Portland helicopter coming up astern low and fast. Got a wave as they went past. Probably checking what the hell a 21’ powerboat doing out there.

Anyway, as conditions now much better, stopped between St Albans and Portland Bill, hung over back and siphoned in 40l of petrol from cans. Full up. Popped into Lyne Bay to see what conditions were like. Roughish, but able to keep up 25 , visibility reasonable, showers. So went for it, and called organizer and told him change of plans and see him in Salcombe in 2.5 hoursish.

Fairly boring for a long time. Other than hanging onto windscreen which was getting looser with every slam. Then could see Start Point, and plotter said 25 to Salcombe. Oh good. There in an hour. Wrong. Waves, big waves. Slowed down, but still kept falling off top of them. Having to concentrate hard and use lots of throttle control. Looked away for an instance, missed a big one, and turned back to see gaping hole. Someone had lifted boat in a hoist and dropped it 6 foot onto concrete. Saw stars (literally). Windscreen hanging off big time, with glass out of surround and totally loose. Bits of cabin door hanging off, hinges off. Bimini cover supports shaken loose. Tried to rig running repairs in big rolling seas. Limped off toward Salcombe. Arrived at visitors pontoon in the bag sometime after 20:00. Haydn called on mobile for a chat. He was on boat in Plymourth. Coming next day.

Wondered about having beer before going to bed, but decided that food was priority, so summoned water taxi, grabbed fish and chips, had beer, went back in water taxi, went to bed.


Sun: Woke, called water taxi, went into Salcombe to Yacht Club to shower. Had huge breakfast in Captain Morgans, went to Chandlery and discussed windscreen repair options with Chandlers. Bought epoxy glue and other bits and pieces.

Back at boat, when PPC boats started turning up. Started working on screen. Idea was to epoxy holes in fiberglass where screws had once been, which now resembled gaping caverns. Wrap ptfe around screws so they could be got out again and embed lightly, then screw in hard once epoxy set. Problem was glass was out of frame.. several boat club members later, a can of WD40, and a rather clever tool used by car windscreen replacers, a ratchet strap or two, and we’d mostly got the glass AND the f***ing rubber surround back into the metal surrounds, and bolted back together.

In meantime MuckyFarter arrived. Note: Haydn’s reknowned driving skills are not quite so good when he’s got a digital camera stuck to his face ;) Never mind, we’d have patched up the rib if he had punctured it with his probs.

Haydn also had some nicely sized rawlplugs and bits in his tool kit, which made some of the repairs considerably easier. Then LJS turned up. Just at the moment that Harbour Master had a panic attack about raggie rally arriving, and promptly kicked us off the mooring on the pontoon where he’d previously put us. Not best pleased with having to move with epoxy setting, I headed to new berth, while Haydn had altercation with HM, and LJS decided the best way to get good at berthing was that practice makes perfect
Haydn couldn’t help LJS with lines or anything, as he had digicam glued to face again.

Finished repairs, and waited for epoxy to set (in meantime PPC set off to Dartmouth, for the day, where they were escorted with dolphins). Haydn and LJS turned up with dinghy, and took me back to MuckyFarter, where I was wined, dined and regaled with entertaining stories, while we sat in now cloudless sunshine.. Fascinated by the different angle that Tutts had on many of these stories. Despite protestations that I should be going back to find PPC, Tutts kindly fed me, while Haydn and LJS burrowed into stores to feed me booze. LJS and I discovered delights of Haydn’s new invention, based on the waterbed – Water Cushions!
Eventually ferried back to Iditarod. Met a few PPC peeps, had a few more beers, and went to bed relatively early as I felt just like I’d been given a good kicking with aches all over.

Monday
Set off about 9:30, and trawled around Salcombe Harbour returning various tools and bits and pieces. No sign of life from LJS or Haydn’s boat, so left Rawlplugs in dinghy, and headed for fueling barge.

Left Salcombe estuary just after 10, and headed for Needles. Flat, very boring, for 2 hours across Lyme Bay, all the way to Portland (though several miles off) Then much rougher all the way to Needles. Though still kept up a good speed, and on track to be back in Lymington before 14:00. Repairs to windscreen given a good testing.

Suddenly in big swell in Needles Channel, about half mile of the Needles Lighthouse, realized that steering had almost gone, which was a little disconcerting in those conditions. Quick look over back to make sure no rope around leg. Nope. Uhmm! Must be power steering pump. Ooh! Look no amps either. Quick look in engine bay confirmed that belt had gone. Callled SeaStart, and discussed option of whether to turn off engine and drift (couldn’t anchor in that depth) or to limp into Alum Bay at tick over - couldn’t check temp because gauge was not now reading, so concerned about overheating.

Went for Alum Bay option, quite worried, because for some reason, I nearly always drag there, and wanted to turn engine off quickish. SeaStart phoned, would be a while, as had to get spare rib, as leg had gone when he’d tried to engage gear. Set anchor drift alarm on plotter, and got tools out. Head down in engine bay anaged to figure out which way serpentine belt went round all the pulley (after much head scratching) and refitted it. Couldn’t get quite enough tension on it, but enough to get me home I reckoned. Then SeaStart turned up. Rolling badly for a few minutes, and difficult to get onboard from his Rib, so he gave me instructions on how to ratchet belt tight with inner screw (I never knew that!), and then it calmed down and jumped aboard with tools and did it properly.

Spent 10 minutes trying to extricate anchor, which came up after using pulling from several angles with fair bit of wellie from newly fixed engine, complete with half of total of grey clay in Alum Bay seabed. Why does it never set like that when I want it to?

Headed off to Lymington arriving 2 hours after my original 14:00 eta

Got home up a not too busy M3. Went to dump dirty clothes in washer. As I opened door, several gallons of water cascaded out. Hmm!

Fantastic weekend, and lots of good company, despite the problems






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Solitaire

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Phew Brendan! Some trip! You'll have to tell more detail when we get together on 8th June - you'r booked in by the way.

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

great post - but I suspect there is more in there somewhere!

amazing just how fast conditions between the Solent and Salcombe can, and do, change........and most don'r realise how big a hole can be lurking out there behind the next wave!

glad you survived / enjoyed it (your call on that!)

see you soon

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longjohnsilver

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Glad to hear you got back safely, just out of interest what would you have done if you'd had the problem in the middle of Lyme Bay, will Sea Start go that far? That's a heck of a trip in a relatively small boat!

You must have been up and about much earlier than 9-30, I'm sure Iwas up around 9-29!! Of course Haydn and Tutts were very much later!

Having clashed with the grumpy Salcombe HM (maybe he'd read my comments about his wifes bed being very comfortable!) we then encountered the grumpy last late nite watertaxi driver who must eat loads of carrots cos I couldn't see where we were going at full revs. Glad I wasn't trying to sleep in some of the boats left rocking in his wake.

I was going to scrub the hull in Salcombe, but a fellow member of the Exe S.C. had parked next to me whilst we were in the pub, so decided to do it in Start Bay. Cleaned the prop and scrubbed the hull, gained about 15% or more speed at usual cruising revs, well worth the effort, but it was knackering, particularly after a fair old session the day before.

We both called into Dartmoutrh on the way back where I got yet more mooring up practice, but this time decided not to try and remove Muckyfarters starboard davit. Still made up for that by tying what I thort was a spring from MF's bow cleat to his midships cleat, leaving Blue Fisher completely out of the equation. Doh! This was naturally very kindly pointed out to me by hlb.

Had a cuppa in Dartmouth, got caught for harbour dues for a half hour stop. Still, don't really mind, it's a lovely place. After that hlb abd Tutts moved on to Brixham for the nite to get their shorepower fix and I came on back to Exmouth. All uneventful really, apart from the coastguard call asking anyone around Orcombe or Straight Points (just outside Exmouth) asking for any vessel in the vicinity to respond to their call, which I duly did. They asked me to be on the lookout for a body in the water, seems a member of the public phoned them to say they'd seen a boat chuck said body overboard. Mystery solved a few nminutes later when one of the local trawlers who'd just reurned to port said it could have been him returning a log to the oggin which had been caught in his trawl net!

Anyway, all in all an excellent weekend made all the better by the good company and the glorious sunshine on Sunday afternoon. Thanks chaps (and Tutts).

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ArthurWood

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Thanks for that Brendan. Enjoyable reading. You are a hero (or nuts) to go that far in those conditions in such small boat.
I'll bet you are aching all over!


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BrendanS

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Fixing the problem in Lyme Bay wouldn't have been a problem. It was nice and flat. Being engineless in Needles Channel in rough conditions was the concern, hence discussion with SeaStart about whether ok to motor at tickover, and watch for over heating.

Once anchored in Alum Bay, and after having some lunch, I had the belt back on in a few minutes, and had engine running with everything functioning. Called SeaStart that I had problem under control, and would head back to Lymington, but they weren't far away, so they suggested they look it over. Belt wasn't as tight as it possibly could be (I learnt about the ratchet mechanism) but it was functional enough to have got me to a safe harbour, or within the theoretical 3 mile radius around SeaStart covered areas.

I like pushing boundaries, but not suicidal, and plan these long trips well, which is why I carry enough fuel to be able to do over a hundred miles at slow displacement speeds, which might possibly mean a long night out, but I'd get there. I like this sort of boating, it's challenging but fun (to answer Duncan's question). First time I've had problems like this on a voyage of any length, but nothing life threatening, if the screen had broken the glass, I could have chucked it overboard, and just paid for a new one. Belt could have been fixed in Needles if necessary, just more difficult.

Sounds like you had some fun moments too, especially the body bit! Some members of the public watch too many films. How do you actually scrub when underwater, do you rig ropes to hang onto, or are you continually using fins to give purchase against hull? It sounds exhausting!

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longjohnsilver

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Yes it was knackering, firstly I was back into my wet suit for the first time this year and wasn't sure about how much weight I needed, thort my weight belt might have been too heavy and didn't much like the idea of plunging 60 odd feet with no cylinder, so gingerly lowered myself into the water, almost enuf buoyancy, so on with the fins and mask. The buoyancy gives me a bit of purchase and whatever growth is on the hull comes off relatively easily underwater, much much easier than trying to scrub off when it's been lifted out. The only stuborn things are the barnacles and actual weed, but a scraper and scrubbing brush soon sort them out.

The biggest problem was trying to stay with the boat, she was picking up the wind and sailing slowly whereas I of course wasn't! Not very fast but didn't help. I also have a heavy duty rubbing strake which doubles as a spray rail which is handy height to hang onto.

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Re: multi function windscreens....

...on small open boats!

You'd be surprised how much water you would get into the cockpit without one in those conditions; or maybe you wouldn't.

I absolutely concur about the various emotional elements involved - fear, fear, fear and satisfaction normally; and the greatest and lasting is satisfaction.

As long as there is an out, which in this case was any direction but the one you really wanted to go in, then your dangers were no worse than those we all get into day in and day out without realising. Do you want your engine failure in the middle of Lyme bay or whilst waiting for the chainferry to cross in a crowded Poole Harbour entrance in perfect conditions on a spring tide - I'll take Lyme Bay everytime!

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kindredspirit

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Brilliant read. Well done.

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BrendanS

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Re: multi function windscreens....

Strangely enough, as I said in original post, conditions weren't that bad. Was taking very little water over bow, never mind screen. I regularly get much worse in Solent. It was the shape and size of waves that was problematic, lots of hard slamming. The wave conditions off Start Point on the way to Salcombe were that I was landing on the chine on the strbrd quarter, which is just about the most uncomfortable way of landing (other than being dropped flat from a height!). Had a lot more water in the boat a few weekends ago when I headed out to the Needles from Yarmouth, and was getting water over the screen at rather frequent intervals.

No fear involved at all on this trip, more concern about holding windscreen on when getting closer to Salcombe. The only real worry I have on these trips is running out of fuel. You can see out just about anything if you have the fuel to potter along, and the inclination just to take things easy and take hours getting there.

The only time I took water over windscreen in any big way, was on the return journey going back into Needles Channel, that happened twice, but it was sunny and fun, and not unusual there anyway.

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Nick2

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Thanks Brendan for an inspirational post.

Just thinking that you do all that with 21' we should really be more adventurous with our extra engine and 10'.........

Salcombe is hot on our list of destinations but just don't think we are ready to go it alone yet.


Nick

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BrendanS

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Best advice is not to get too adventurous too soon. I spent a long time cruising in company and building confidence before I started going long distance solo.

You've also got family on board to think about. I prefer to do long trips solo, so I don't have to worry about handling crew when things get tough.

Having said that, you have a boat that will handle the conditions I was out in without even having to think about it. Do a few cruises in company, in good weather, to far flung places, and next year or year after you won't even think about it, other than obvious planning.

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Nick2

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Brendan

Your advice is as ever spot on and appreciated

Nick

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longjohnsilver

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Nick, once you're sure that you've sorted out any engine problems why not just pootle along the coast, having chosen a good weather window. No need to rush, call in at a few other places on the way, you'll be surprised how easy it will seem.

Maybe call in at Weymouth for the cheapest fuel on the south coast, creep around Portland Bill about 50- 100 yards off and then hug the coast around Lyme Bay, maybe stop for lunch in Lyme Regis, use a visitors buoy and dinghy to the Cobb, good food and drink in the Cobb Arms. Then onwards past Beer (you could well find Blue Fisher somewhere between Lyme and Exmouth on one of our favourite dive sites), maybe call into Exmouth for a pint, you can always moor alongside me or use my mooring if I'm not there. From my mooring it's only about 20 yards onto Dawlish Warren which has great sandy beaches, but watch out for the currents. The sand dunes are great, easy to find a secluded bit all to yourself even at the busiest times. Have a good explore, there's ponds, loads of wildlife and even a golf course!

Then on to Teignmouth, only go in around high water, but well worth the effort, pretty, good beaches and some good pubs on the quay. Next on to Babbacombe tucked away in the corner of the bay only a few miles away from Torquay. There's a little pier that you can tie up to at high tide, or else anchor 50 yards or so off at low water, with an excellent pub only 50 yards or so away. And a few hundred yards away is a cliff railway, up to the top for some great views. There are often dolphins around this area, an added bonus.

Then round the corner to Torbay, not my favourite place although Brixham is interesting in places, particularly recommended is Brixham Yacht Club, fantastic views of the bay with good food and a good choice of beers. From there a short hop around to Dartmouth, maybe stopping at Scabbacombe sands for the girls to play (watch out for the nudists!) and then into Dartmouth, loads of places to stop, or for somewhere a bit quieter up to Dittisham or again at high water, all the way to Totnes.

Leaving Dartmouth for Salcombe you have some great beaches in Start Bay, Blackpool Sands being one of the best. Look out for the abandoned houses at Hallsands, lots of history there. Creep around Start Point avoiding the Skerries and Salcombe is just around the corner. Look for the wreckage on Prawle point, an old ship which broke its tow some years ago. Salcombe has some of the best beaches in the country with golden sands and clear water, and always somewhere sheltered to moor or anchor.

There you have it, Lyme Bay and beyond in easy steps, all great fun and not at all difficult in settled weather. Give it a go, you will enjoy it, or else your money back!!

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BrendanS

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Brilliant itinerary. Only one missing is Slapton, if only for the visit to the Tower Inn. Fine to anchor and dinghy in good weather. Look out for tank memorial (long story behind this one) Not a foul weather mooring though.

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Thanks LJS for a REALLY informative reply as well as very kind offer re mooring etc. I have actually printed it off to study and keep on boat as we would dearly love to explore west country if time allows this year.

As far as engines are concerned I seem to be (hopefully) over worried about them and have to remember that they travelled from Thames to Southampton without missing a beat. The only issues seem to be a fine oil spray under load from the starbord lump as well as a coolant leak which I think is a pipe rather than a seal or the like. This is still under investigation. However they are running well upto max revs and 23 knts which I am informed is ok.

Sorry to hijack Brendan's post but I have found the advice here very useful

Nick

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longjohnsilver

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Ah yes Slapton sands and Beesands, there's always the chap selling his book by the tank. Slapton Ley, a big inland freshwater lake only yards away from the sea is also interesting. Must have missed the Tower inn, very remiss of me!!

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longjohnsilver

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

If you do get down this way give me a shout, maybe we could meet for a drink or two...........

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

Is this the start of the BrendanS/LJS pilot guide series?

Nick

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BrendanS

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Re: Salcombe - some days it\'s better to... (long post)

<<Sorry to hijack Brendan's post but I have found the advice here very useful>>

Don't be daft. Fred Drift is often where the best bits come from, and no one owns any thread


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