tico
Well-known member
Could it possibly be to lift the winch/cleats to give greater clearance for warps - to reduce the rope rubbing/wearing the nice teak finish?
Just a thought?
Just a thought?
I’m a little confused..is this discussion about the teak decking underneath all that deck hardware...or...the teak plinth under the winch?
Thank you...Plinth under the winch
Indeed Elessar. As you'll see in due course no doubt, the fit/finish on SL96A is drop dead amazingly perfect (I've been on board 4 of the 20 they have built). A noticeable step up from the mass producers like Fair/Prin/Seek et al . The Dusseldorf boat was not good imho and not up to standard.Surprising on an SL when JFM says their fit and finish is normally up to a standard that gets him to break out a superlative.
I don't buy any of that engineeringly. The last thing I want in a joint like that is a spongy component whose properties change over time. I expect the tension in the bolts will reduce over time, as the teak settles, urgh. You absolutely want lots of tension in those bolts - they should be loaded only in tension not in shear. The shear loads from tight mooring lines should be taken by friction between the cleat and the boat, not shear in the bolt, and the bolt tension is what creates that friction.As Greg says the wood pad will absorb and pressure differences from the flat ness or un flat ness of the two fitting surfaces .Particularly the teak top of the plinth .There’s an extra 10 mm of kinda compressible base circumference structurally every bit helps I guess .
Makes perfect sense to me to do it this way .
Yep that could be the reason. Doesn't make me love them!Could it possibly be to lift the winch/cleats to give greater clearance for warps - to reduce the rope rubbing/wearing the nice teak finish?
Just a thought?
Nah, I don't buy thatAnother possibility is that there isn’t enough depth to the molding that the winch sits on...so in order for it to have some clearance for the motor below it has to be raided by an inch or so
Real teak. Easy to bend like that in a good woodworking shop. I agree with you that it doesn't look great.Is that real teak or a sheet of plastic curved at the corner ? What ever it is it looks naff inho .Whole thing looks wrong compared to the pic JFM posted .
There is a visible gap between the cleat base nearest the transom and the surface .That’s what a teak plinth like the winch is mounted should mask , any fitting disparity = which it does .
Simply request SL delete those pads if if bothers you .You will see them every time you walk past now they are in the psychi .I don't buy any of that engineeringly. The last thing I want in a joint like that is a spongy component whose properties change over time. I expect the tension in the bolts will reduce over time, as the teak settles, urgh. you absolutely want lots of tension in those bolts - they should be loaded only in tension not in shear. The shear loads should be dealt with by friction between the cleat and the boat, and the bolt tension is what creates that friction.
I'm guessing it's for cleaning and polishing of the winch and cleats, to prevent/make easy cleaning the bottom areas, preventing the cleaning chemicals staining the area. Sacrificial pads....maybe...Nah, I don't buy that
Lots to say, so i need to summarise heavily...
Basic spec was "right on the limit for an owner driver", so about 95-98 feet.
Max LOA ~29m, to fit on the berth I want in Antibes. I don't want to be berthed in the location where the next size up (34m) berths are located.
Exactly .It won’t be a typical soft teak that compressors like normal deck stuff .It will be a bigger pad area of some steel like hard wood .There are some hard woods out there that almost break drill bits very dense stuff ,tricky to even saw .No sponginess to see here .I don't buy any of that engineeringly. The last thing I want in a joint like that is a spongy component whose properties change over time. I expect the tension in the bolts will reduce over time, as the teak settles, urgh. You absolutely want lots of tension in those bolts - they should be loaded only in tension not in shear. The shear loads from tight mooring lines should be taken by friction between the cleat and the boat, not shear in the bolt, and the bolt tension is what creates that friction.
It’s a good job you aren’t practising as a mechanical engineerExactly .It won’t be a typical soft teak that compressors like normal deck stuff .It will be a bigger pad area of some steel like hard wood .There are some hard woods out there that almost break drill bits very dense stuff ,tricky to even saw .No sponginess to see here .
Think the principal of normal washers used in bolting up .Aside there will be a backing plate underneath normally aluminium . So this is a additional surface area increase thingy on the top surface .
Your compressive dismissal does not account for the grp + it’s core+ reinforcement if any .All of which will dimensionally alter with temp fluctuations and as you say time .
It’s a good way of maxing up the SA and being reasonably aesthetic .It ain’t gonna compress , loosen out the bolts no more than any other of the materials between the blots on the underside of the cleats + nuts securing .
Aesthetically of course it’s subjective.It ain’t there only for this though.
As far as failure it ain’t anything to do with or very rare the bolts , it’s the material the thing s attached to .Ie a huge dinner plate of grp or what ever rips out taking decking .Not a couple of bolt fractures leaving clean holes as you infer .
Exactly .It won’t be a typical soft teak that compressors like normal deck stuff .It will be a bigger pad area of some steel like hard wood .There are some hard woods out there that almost break drill bits very dense stuff ,tricky to even saw .No sponginess to see here .
Think the principal of normal washers used in bolting up .Aside there will be a backing plate underneath normally aluminium . So this is a additional surface area increase thingy on the top surface