New build Sanlorenzo SL96A 2024

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,806
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
I think electric steering's a brilliant idea and as someone who's just bought all the kit to retrofit hydraulic steering and autohelm, wished I searched this out as an alternative!
I guess the principle is the same as the control on a cnc machine. The main difference however would be ball screws instead of lead screws and more commonly, belt driven rather than a gearbox

Not auctually sure whether they use a classic leadscrew or a ball screw in these Colin, but I suspect leadscrew. But I think plenty of the linear actuators are gear not belt driven.

New outboards come with leadscrew electric integrated steering, so this is definitely where things are going. On our chase boat for this Sanlorenzo (of which I'll post pics when I get a minute - it's well into its build) we have specced electric steering (steer by wire) on a Yamaha 300. I'm expecting this to be great, and it allows a joystick on the dashboard. Good thing about this is you get an autopilot almost for free, just for the cost of the little computer, without having to fit an autopilot pump etc. The cost in autopilots is the steering pump and piping, not the computer.
 

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,806
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
that hydraulic pump in portos pic, is exactly the same like in Blue Angel, for the passerel only,

I can tell from each of those hoses leaving the pump, what it's function: (at least on my boat it is like that)
- passerel gate open - close
- passerel in - out
- passerel fold - unfold
- passerel up - down
3 of those functions have a pressure adjustment valve, clearly visible in the pic, the in - out function doesn't have such a regulater, is alway's at max press

I can NOT believe that in porto's boat the pump serves the hydraulic steering, let alone the flaps,, that electric motor is not up to permanent running during navigation.
Fully agree all that BartW. I was following those hoses too. But I decided not to post about it, for fear of getting 10,000 words and pictures in reply.

BTW, I suspect the hoses at left of picture go to the flaps, and I think the gold things are flow restrictors, to control passerelle up/down speed, not pressure restrictors, but no matter. :)
 
Last edited:

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,806
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
The Princess F55 has individual servo motors controlling each rudder. We have very easy access as the crew cabin is a storage so I can simply pull off a panel to access steering, swim platform hydraulic pump etc. You can center the rudders if required manually and then get home using engines / thrusters when close quarters.

Its still very early days into ownership and exploration of handling but in the case of the F55 the turning circle at speed is greater than the previous P50 Mk3. How much of that is down to the rudder set up? I suspect its more down to the hull design, the P50 really leans into turns and is almost on a knife edge when under way. The F55 is much more sedate and stable. Feel at the wheel is definitely less, the P50 had an electro hydraulic system at the lower helm and traditional manual hydraulic at the flybridge.

I was surprised to see the rudder set up during the F55 build but by the sound of it there are advantages.
That's interesting Henry. So electric steering is definitely catching on. With your system the rudder angles can be changed independently (ie Ackerman) becuase there is no tie bar. Wonder if Princess have done that. I wouldn't wonder about it too much because it feels a bit of a gimmick.

Overall, while I listed some pros/cons above, I'm quite happy to be moving to electric steering and on balance I think it's a good thing . If it fails I'll report back here!
 

colhel

Well-known member
Joined
9 Jan 2011
Messages
4,028
Location
Gillingham(Dorset) Boat Weymuff
Visit site
Not auctually sure whether they use a classic leadscrew or a ball screw in these Colin, but I suspect leadscrew. But I think plenty of the linear actuators are gear not belt driven.

Fairly certain it's a lead screw as it has an acme nut, and this would protect the gearbox as a ball screw can feedback with relative ease.
 

Elessar

Well-known member
Joined
10 Jul 2003
Messages
9,997
Location
River Hamble
Visit site
That's interesting Henry. So electric steering is definitely catching on. With your system the rudder angles can be changed independently (ie Ackerman) becuase there is no tie bar. Wonder if Princess have done that. I wouldn't wonder about it too much because it feels a bit of a gimmick.

Overall, while I listed some pros/cons above, I'm quite happy to be moving to electric steering and on balance I think it's a good thing . If it fails I'll report back here!
IPS steering is electric of course. I've only driven one IPS boat enough to get to know it, and that's a 45ish foot very high volume flybridge.
Is hard to separate the electric bit from the IPS bit so hard to draw conclusions, but the light wheel that will even continue to spin a bit if you turn it fast, like a very low geared yacht wheel, feels good.

IPS gives a very responsive sporty outdrive like feel compared to a similar sized shaft boat thus hard to know what the electric bit adds or detracts.

The only other boat with electric steering I've driven is Sticky Fingers' outdrive boat and I hadn't twigged that was electric until reading this thread! But on reflection it must be electric because he has a joystick (which I didn't use) Felt like every other cable steered outdrive to me. Hydraulic steered outdrives have more damping by comparison.
 

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,806
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
Fairly certain it's a lead screw as it has an acme nut, and this would protect the gearbox as a ball screw can feedback with relative ease.
Ah yes of course that makes sense. These things actually need an acme nut, because you want to lock the rudder in position when the actuator motor is not running; you don't want the rudder/tiller spinning the gearbox/motor.

With modern materials/manufacturing I would expect years of life from an acme nut. And when it does wear, you'll get a year's worth of warning (backlash) before it fails, so plenty of time to replace. I asked Sanlorenzo how much €€€ for a spare lin actuator to carry on the boat and they said €5,000, so that tells you these are proper quality industrial quality things not the Chinese stuff that opens your garden gates. A reassuringly high price!
 

Mr Googler

Well-known member
Joined
11 Apr 2008
Messages
5,557
Visit site

Baby brother (or sister) to yours. Are you having the teak over the curve by the stern winch kit. I’m not completely sure on that. Love the capping rails though!
 

jfm

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
23,806
Location
Jersey/Antibes
Visit site
Hmmm. I was on that boat in dusseldorf, as were other posters here, just as Hugo was filming it. You can see three posters from here at 23:43

Each to their own but I didn't like that boat. I like the design, but I want P speed, so that ruled out Sanlorenzo SD 90 and 96. But I really didn't like any of the interior choices and many of the exterior choices made by this owner. That's always the thing about custom boats - they are what the customer wants and therefore very different, so you can love and hate different builds on the same hull. Much as I like the SL96A to the point of having bought one, I disliked very much the SL96A that was displayed at the 2022 Cannes boat show - I thought every choice of layout, interior finish, fabrics, furniture, electronics, etc was terrible.

I like the look and feel of teak capping rails but they are hard work for maintenance (ask BartW) and actually the SL 96A has no capping rails at all which I'm very happy about.

I'm also not a fan of caulked teak surfaces other than for decks and staircases. I would never have it on a table top, for example, and I deleted it for the semi circle under the flybridge windscreen on my last squadron 78. I have no choice but to have teak on the stern winch surfaces on this SL96A but they are more straightforward than on the SD 90, with no curves - picture below. This is standard spec. I'm ok with teak here, though I don't love the little teak pads under the cleats -I don't see any engineering benefit.

Aft-winches-SL96-A-741.jpg
 

Elessar

Well-known member
Joined
10 Jul 2003
Messages
9,997
Location
River Hamble
Visit site
Hmmm. I was on that boat in dusseldorf, as were other posters here, just as Hugo was filming it. You can see three posters from here at 23:43

Each to their own but I didn't like that boat. I like the design, but I want P speed, so that ruled out Sanlorenzo SD 90 and 96. But I really didn't like any of the interior choices and many of the exterior choices made by this owner. That's always the thing about custom boats - they are what the customer wants and therefore very different, so you can love and hate different builds on the same hull. Much as I like the SL96A to the point of having bought one, I disliked very much the SL96A that was displayed at the 2022 Cannes boat show - I thought every choice of layout, interior finish, fabrics, furniture, electronics, etc was terrible.

I like the look and feel of teak capping rails but they are hard work for maintenance (ask BartW) and actually the SL 96A has no capping rails at all which I'm very happy about.

I'm also not a fan of caulked teak surfaces other than for decks and staircases. I would never have it on a table top, for example, and I deleted it for the semi circle under the flybridge windscreen on my last squadron 78. I have no choice but to have teak on the stern winch surfaces on this SL96A but they are more straightforward than on the SD 90, with no curves - picture below. This is standard spec. I'm ok with teak here, though I don't love the little teak pads under the cleats -I don't see any engineering benefit.

Aft-winches-SL96-A-741.jpg
There were, very surprisingly, areas of poor fit and finish on that boat too.
 

47GC

Active member
Joined
27 May 2015
Messages
175
Location
Loch Lomond, Scotland.
Visit site
Hmmm. I was on that boat in dusseldorf, as were other posters here, just as Hugo was filming it. You can see three posters from here at 23:43

Each to their own but I didn't like that boat. I like the design, but I want P speed, so that ruled out Sanlorenzo SD 90 and 96. But I really didn't like any of the interior choices and many of the exterior choices made by this owner. That's always the thing about custom boats - they are what the customer wants and therefore very different, so you can love and hate different builds on the same hull. Much as I like the SL96A to the point of having bought one, I disliked very much the SL96A that was displayed at the 2022 Cannes boat show - I thought every choice of layout, interior finish, fabrics, furniture, electronics, etc was terrible.

I like the look and feel of teak capping rails but they are hard work for maintenance (ask BartW) and actually the SL 96A has no capping rails at all which I'm very happy about.

I'm also not a fan of caulked teak surfaces other than for decks and staircases. I would never have it on a table top, for example, and I deleted it for the semi circle under the flybridge windscreen on my last squadron 78. I have no choice but to have teak on the stern winch surfaces on this SL96A but they are more straightforward than on the SD 90, with no curves - picture below. This is standard spec. I'm ok with teak here, though I don't love the little teak pads under the cleats -I don't see any engineering benefit.

Aft-winches-SL96-A-741.jpg
Any idea why they sit the cleats on the teak pads. Looks like all the hardware is sitting on those pads. Must be some reason?
 

Greg2

Well-known member
Joined
24 Jun 2002
Messages
4,436
Visit site
Perhaps to align the ropes with the fairleads and/or the winches.

I wonder if it is just aesthetics?

That said, mounting kit on teak pads is quite common to my mind so, whilst noting that JFM doesn’t see any engineering benefit, I wonder if they also serve some purpose in providing a bed to absorb some pressure from tightening securing bolts?
 
Last edited:

Portofino

Well-known member
Joined
10 Apr 2011
Messages
12,289
Location
Boat- Western Med
Visit site
You don’t have to trim / place / set the teak around the three items if they were bolted on first .

Placing them on pads over the top of the existing freshly laid teak ensures a tight , neat joint .As Greg says the wood pad will absorb and pressure differences from the flat ness or un flat ness of the two fitting surfaces .Particularly the teak top of the plinth .There’s an extra 10 mm of kinda compressible base circumference structurally every bit helps I guess .

Makes perfect sense to me to do it this way .
 

Bouba

Well-known member
Joined
6 Sep 2016
Messages
41,855
Location
SoF
Visit site
I’m a little confused..is this discussion about the teak decking underneath all that deck hardware...or...the teak plinth under the winch?
 
Top