How will I get this bxxxxxd out?

Daydream believer

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Get a proper solid carbide drill and drill it out - GBR Engineering Online Shop

Solid carbide will drill out taps, or a quality carbide burr and a dremel is the starter cheaper option

Masonry drills make very good metal drills if you sharpen the carbide insert a bit - they are a cheaper version than the solid carbide drills

A proper hole saw or better still a rotabroach cutter with a drill adapter will cut cast iron very easily
Where are you going to get a hole saw to cut 8mm? Plus if you do get one, how is the pilot drill going to drill the centre that no other drill can touch?
I tried a carbide milling cutter & others, in my mill, running at the correct speed & held firmly clamped etc on the fitting my friend had issues with & nothing not touched it. Drilling etc work hardens the already hard set screws & an allen key is pretty hard.
 

penberth3

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.....Jacking the pin out whilst ignoring the grub screws is probably the best bet.

I may try the Dremel with a diamond cutter, or a die grinder.

I saw a YouTube using the masonry bit trick, might be worth a bash...

I wouldn't have thought a hole saw would drill cast iron.

Thanks all,

Warning - a lot of cutters and burrs described on E-bay as "Tungsten Carbide" are not Tungsten Carbide. Often the small print in the description doesn't make this clear. Buy from a reputable supplier, don't buy on low price.
 

DownWest

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Where are you going to get a hole saw to cut 8mm? Plus if you do get one, how is the pilot drill going to drill the centre that no other drill can touch?
I tried a carbide milling cutter & others, in my mill, running at the correct speed & held firmly clamped etc on the fitting my friend had issues with & nothing not touched it. Drilling etc work hardens the already hard set screws & an allen key is pretty hard.
As I said further up, I use the hole saw on a bit of ply, then clamp the ply centered over the screw. No centre drill required. Plus, use a 20mm hole saw to give a bit of elbow room round the screw head. Shaft of screw is 8mm, head 12/13mm. If welding a nut onto the screw, drill out the threads to make welding easier.
 

greeny

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For ceramics. Not for steel.
I did say worth a try. Aware they're for ceramics. I've used them in bathrooms/kitchens many times. You never know until you try. The inside diameter of the right size cutter may well "shake" the allen key bit loose. Forward and reverse action on the drill may help. When you don't have a welder or other tools or a workshop, trying other things often works. That's why I said jiggery pokery. PBO forever!
 

DinghyMan

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Where are you going to get a hole saw to cut 8mm? Plus if you do get one, how is the pilot drill going to drill the centre that no other drill can touch?
I tried a carbide milling cutter & others, in my mill, running at the correct speed & held firmly clamped etc on the fitting my friend had issues with & nothing not touched it. Drilling etc work hardens the already hard set screws & an allen key is pretty hard.
Proper hole saws dont use a pilot drill - see Rotabroach, available from 11mm upwards and a solid carbide drill will take the remains and the bolt head out easily

Allen keys are up to about 55 HRC, proper carbide cutters are available off-the shelf for up to 68 HRC and custom made to much higher, obviously not cheap though

We use solid carbide hard material cutters to shape carbide and normal milling cutters and to make custom lathe tools - all way harder than an allen key
 

DinghyMan

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Beneteau381

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What is holding the broken bit of Allen key in place?

Gravity and rust.

What I would try, before taking more drastic measures, is to first soften the rust with Renaissance Metal De-Corroder (because I happen to have some and I know it works well).

Then I would try and loosen the remains by tapping to and fro with a sharp thin centre-punch.

If successful, the broken piece could be remove with Blutack.

If that didn't work, I'd ask for advice on the YBW forum 😂
As much as we don’t get on, the best piece of advice here. Basically the same as the Whitlock post. Fiddle, heat, tap, freeing oil, your jollop, rinse and repeat. It will come out eventually, forget the welding malarkey to try and turn it, it might work to grip it to pull the bit out though.
 

Bouba

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As much as we don’t get on, the best piece of advice here. Basically the same as the Whitlock post. Fiddle, heat, tap, freeing oil, your jollop, rinse and repeat. It will come out eventually, forget the welding malarkey to try and turn it, it might work to grip it to pull the bit out though.
True...even a small cold chisel and hammer could do it
 

Poignard

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As much as we don’t get on, the best piece of advice here. Basically the same as the Whitlock post. Fiddle, heat, tap, freeing oil, your jollop, rinse and repeat. It will come out eventually, forget the welding malarkey to try and turn it, it might work to grip it to pull the bit out though.
For the record, I have the greatest respect for your abilities, both as a seaman and as a practical engineer.

As far as I recall, any differences we may have had related to, and were exacerbated by, our very different political views at a time of great constitutional upheaval for our country.

(Probably not helped by the fact that subsequent events have proved me to have been right 😂)
 

winch2

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Been here too on several occasions and that tool steel is untouchable. I would be inclined to attack it with oxy acetylene. A small flame so as not to damage the area and then let it cool very slowly gradually moving the flame away, that'll soften it up. Welding a nut as said already is a good idea too but if the metals have become one still may not budge. Heat is the key.
 

penberth3

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Been here too on several occasions and that tool steel is untouchable. I would be inclined to attack it with oxy acetylene. A small flame so as not to damage the area....

Good advice, use a small welding nozzle, not the biggest cutting torch you can find!
 
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