How will I get this bxxxxxd out?

doug748 said:
They used tap-zappers on high worth engineering items, they were very expensive and not portable. I see the Chinese have been on the case however:

Amazon.co.uk

Not suggesting you buy one but, if all else fails, there may be some local engineering firm that has a lead on one. You do need reasonable access from above though.

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Give it a couple of years it will be in Lidl or possibly Aldi.
 
doug748 said:
They used tap-zappers on high worth engineering items, they were very expensive and not portable. I see the Chinese have been on the case however:

Amazon.co.uk

Not suggesting you buy one but, if all else fails, there may be some local engineering firm that has a lead on one. You do need reasonable access from above though.

.
Click to expand...
That's a hellish expensive arc welder :unsure:
 
Since it is recessed, limits the options. Think I would clean it up with a dremel, then Mig it to a/ get some heat in to help release and b/ built up some metal to get a grip on.
Or, use a big drill to open out the recess (maybe a hole cutter? with a bit of ply to centre it, as obviously no pilot drill.) so a bigger nut can be welded on. The hole in the bigger nut would allow one to do a decent weld on the screw head.
I wouldn't bother trying to get the bit of the Allen key out.

Be a lot easier than finding somebody with a spark eroder who would come out.
 
Yes, I tend to agree.....if it’s recessed (and I believe ss ?)...I would clean it up and with an arc welder and some ss rods, I would weld on a ss nut (by filling the inside of the nut...this gives you the option of getting an oversized nut, giving plenty of room for weld filler....and something hefty for a large wrench to get its teeth into
 
Bouba said:
Yes, I tend to agree.....if it’s recessed (and I believe ss ?)...I would clean it up and with an arc welder and some ss rods, I would weld on a ss nut (by filling the inside of the nut...this gives you the option of getting an oversized nut, giving plenty of room for weld filler....and something hefty for a large wrench to get its teeth into
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Might it not be worth at least trying the simpler ideas first?

If they don't succeed, then is the time to start considering more esoteric solutions.

There's a lot to be said for the KISS principle.
 
Poignard said:
Might it not be worth at least trying the simpler ideas first?

If they don't succeed, then is the time to start considering more esoteric solutions.

There's a lot to be said for the KISS principle.
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I’ll be honest....this is a very quick and easy fix
 
Poignard said:
If you happen to have 'an arc welder and some ss rods'.

Many don't.
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The many are unlikely to get this out.
I tend to find that such problems require going 'big' rather than mucking about and making the problem worse.

Local guy bought in a brake caliper off a slightly rare Honda Bike. The caliper was alloy and the hydraulic connection, he thought, was brass and stuck; had rounded off the hex on the thinghy and was really concerned that he would need to find a new caliper..
I sussed that the bit was steel and welded on a bit of scrap with a hole in it. The heat broke the corrosion and it came out. But, that was proud oif the surface. The OP's prob is a bit more tricky, since recessed and rusted in .
 
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Boater Sam said:
And when you have done, buy some proper BS standard allen keys that you will not snap.
I would drill the screw at an angle to one side around the allen bit, its softer. Drill till you are full depth and the bit should be able to be pried out.
Best way is to weld a nut onto the screw, filling the center with weld on to the screw and bit. The heat will let you unscrew the screw too.
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It was a proper Allen head from a Halfords professional kit..the grub screw was seized solid, I was being so careful that I was using a 3/8 socket on a 1/4 ratchet so I wouldn't do any damage 😢. The job was being abandoned to allow it to soak.

I snapped the bit with a hammer trying to get it out so I could go home as a violent shower of rain started....I just hit it too hard on a subzero day. The good quality is part of the issue.

The hole is too small for any welding and I am reluctant to take that approach as it is a huge chunk of cast iron and we are at the weakest part of it so I fear, rationally or otherwise, that a crack or weakness could be induced by heat, in these temperatures preheating the whole thing would probably need an inferno...

Jacking the pin out whilst ignoring the grub screws is probably the best bet.

I may try the Dremel with a diamond cutter, or a die grinder.

I saw a YouTube using the masonry bit trick, might be worth a bash...

I wouldn't have thought a hole saw would drill cast iron.

Thanks all,
 
pandos said:
It was a proper Allen head from a Halfords professional kit..the grub screw was seized solid, I was being so careful that I was using a 3/8 socket on a 1/4 ratchet so I wouldn't do any damage 😢. The job was being abandoned to allow it to soak.

I snapped the bit with a hammer trying to get it out so I could go home as a violent shower of rain started....I just hit it too hard on a subzero day. The good quality is part of the issue.

The hole is too small for any welding and I am reluctant to take that approach as it is a huge chunk of cast iron and we are at the weakest part of it so I fear, rationally or otherwise, that a crack or weakness could be induced by heat, in these temperatures preheating the whole thing would probably need an inferno...

Jacking the pin out whilst ignoring the grub screws is probably the best bet.

I may try the Dremel with a diamond cutter, or a die grinder.

I saw a YouTube using the masonry bit trick, might be worth a bash...

I wouldn't have thought a hole saw would drill cast iron.

Thanks all,
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Get a proper solid carbide drill and drill it out - GBR Engineering Online Shop

Solid carbide will drill out taps, or a quality carbide burr and a dremel is the starter cheaper option

Masonry drills make very good metal drills if you sharpen the carbide insert a bit - they are a cheaper version than the solid carbide drills

A proper hole saw or better still a rotabroach cutter with a drill adapter will cut cast iron very easily
 
I've had success using small diamond grinding bits. Mine set was quite cheap from Lidl. It's quite easy to centre compared with other methods then just work round in ever increasing circles. Not sure what size you're dealing with but I've found it much better than all the usual tools and there's very little chance of snapping the tool.
 
To be honest.....I think that if you gave it to one of the professionals at the boatyard....or any passing mechanic....they would probably remove it for you. You know, professionals that have the heads of bolts snap on them everyday
 
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