How will I get this bxxxxxd out?

[DinghyMan]

Do you use a rotabroach in a hand held drill???????

Have done to enlarge holes in fittings and on machines where the rotabroach drill cant be used - its a fun experience, particularly in stainless and the rotabroaches shatter quite easily if you use the standard high speed steel ones, carbide ones arent as bad

I have a picture somewhere of an SDS to Morse Taper adapter that was made to be used with both morse taper drills and a morse taper to rotabroach adapter to do a variety of weird and wonderful site drilling jobs

 

[rogerthebodger]

I would use one of these in a magnetic drill to keep the cutting stable and reduce the chance of breaking the Rotabroach or a hole saw

If the mag drill does not stick to the base metal just G clamp a sheet of steel onto the surface as I have done grilling stainless steel with a mag drill

 

[Bouba]

To be honest I don’t think this is a hard job…sure, it’s a pain in the arse job…and will waste a day you’d rather be doing something productive. But it’s on the keel and the boat is on land….this would be a difficult job if it were in the engine bay

 

[boomerangben]

Lots of interesting ideas involving heat and sparks and so on. I assume this is is still within a GRP boat. How many of those suggesting taking a welder/grinder/gas axe to this problem would do the same in their boat? The idea of oxy-acetylene in a confined space in inexperienced hands sends a shiver down my spine.

if you can drill a series of small (2mm) holes around the Allen key to aid its removal then a 10mm drill to drill the grub screw out and retap or helicoil for replacement.

 

[PaulRainbow]

To be honest I don’t think this is a hard job…sure, it’s a pain in the arse job…and will waste a day you’d rather be doing something productive. But it’s on the keel and the boat is on land….this would be a difficult job if it were in the engine bay

That's rich, coming from the bloke that couldn't get a bit of bog pipe out

 

[Bouba]

That's rich, coming from the bloke that couldn't get a bit of bog pipe out

I had the option of leaving it in.....does pandos

 

[winch2]

Of course using extreme heat in a confined space full of glassfibre/fuel/fumes is a very dangerous caper indeed, I only suggested it because the fellow has hit a brick wall, but yes, and I suppose I should have said this...' Do not do it unless you absolutely know what you are doing'. Im used to oxycet and fixing the impossible so apologies if I got carried away. But as has been said, tool steel is virtually impregnable. Maybe it would be best to get a yard to do the work.

 

[Beneteau381]

Lots of interesting ideas involving heat and sparks and so on. I assume this is is still within a GRP boat. How many of those suggesting taking a welder/grinder/gas axe to this problem would do the same in their boat? The idea of oxy-acetylene in a confined space in inexperienced hands sends a shiver down my spine.

if you can drill a series of small (2mm) holes around the Allen key to aid its removal then a 10mm drill to drill the grub screw out and retap or helicoil for replacement.

I thought it was outside?

 

[pandos]

I am grateful for the number of replies to this query and the many diverse suggestions.

The keel is out on the ground so heat would not be a great issue, except in terms of its effects on the cast iron itself.

I could turn it upside down but as a magnet will not pull it upwards I think it would not slip out...it weighs more than three tons so probably not a good idea..

I ordered some carbide cutters which may get some traction and if not then I will try to work with it in place...

From the photo it can be seen that the keel is well stuck, it was jacked up to this angle to help getting off the corrosion and or debris which is holding it.

It's soaking now in acetone and ATF so perhaps it will free a little more. Some exercising it with a forklift may be sufficient to get it mobilised enough to identify exactly where it is catching.

 

[pandos]

Just to update. Got the bas**** out today. Drilled the grub screw with a hollow diamond coated bit (usually used for drilling ceramic tiles and stone tops) this exposed enough of the Allen key to allow me to hammer on a socket and wind it out....

Then I broke an Allen key off in the one on the other side so I can repeat the treatment tomorrow

For anyone struggling with a Southerly keel, the grub screws are opened with a torx T40.. and there are two on each side (one above the other...)

 

[Iliade]

Thread drift - I too have the Halfords pro toolkit. The first time I used one of the large (1/2"?) T30 Torx bits, driving it quite gently with the 3/8" ratchet, it snapped!

Bought a 'proper' set similar to those linked and they have proven far stronger...

 

[Minerva]

I am grateful for the number of replies to this query and the many diverse suggestions.

The keel is out on the ground so heat would not be a great issue, except in terms of its effects on the cast iron itself.

I could turn it upside down but as a magnet will not pull it upwards I think it would not slip out...it weighs more than three tons so probably not a good idea..

I ordered some carbide cutters which may get some traction and if not then I will try to work with it in place...

From the photo it can be seen that the keel is well stuck, it was jacked up to this angle to help getting off the corrosion and or debris which is holding it.

It's soaking now in acetone and ATF so perhaps it will free a little more. Some exercising it with a forklift may be sufficient to get it mobilised enough to identify exactly where it is catching.

View attachment 186917

Pandos - don’t worry you mate, but whilst you’ve been distracted by a stuck grub screw, some bugger has stolen the rest of your bloody boat!

 

[pandos]

Pandos - don’t worry you mate, but whilst you’ve been distracted by a stuck grub screw, some bugger has stolen the rest of your bloody boat!

Alas that has not happened....