Bought a Never splashed Colvic Countess 33 on eBay, Looking for infos

[RichardS]

As a fellow engineer, i think you can get this done for under the 20k if you are willing to make up parts etc. If we had gone ahead with the purchase of that hull, then I would have put a300tdi land rover engine in it, sans turbo, cheap, easy to find parts for anywhere in the world. I would run freshwater, have hot running water and run an extra alternator, and maybe a generator on a dog clutch. You would also have basic hydraulics is you wanted it with the power steering motor, or upgrade to a bigger hydraulic motor. Mate engine to a marine gearbox and stern gear is easy. You will find a mast cheap or free somewhere if you trawl boatyards, along with lots of other bits.
Use the boat as a research and development opportunity, and have fun going against some of the perceived wisdom of the yacht world.
Engineers forever.

Isn't that a massively heavy 2.5L engine for a small boat?

For me the main stumbling block would be engineering in the heat exchanger to cool the engine coolant but I guess that an engineer with access to a full workshop and welding gear etc could knock something up.

Richard

 

[davidej]

Isn't that a massively heavy 2.5L engine for a small boat?

For me the main stumbling block would be engineering in the heat exchanger to cool the engine coolant but I guess that an engineer with access to a full workshop and welding gear etc could knock something up.

Richard

Isn't the smaller 1.6 litre Ford diesel a better choice. I think you can easily get the parts to marinise that.

Good luck to the OP. There is more than money in this choice - the satisfaction of having done it yourself.

 

[ghostlymoron]

My pal has one and I've sailed on her lots. Roomy, safe and fairly quick. His is a ketch with large wheel in cockpit. I've seen others with small wheel on bulkhead. I notice yours has a mounting point for a mizzen so assume it's a ketch. The single mast version would have the main mast stepped further aft I would think.
There's several different internal layouts as well so take your pick. You've got a mountain of work to do but first you need to completely empty the interior. Some of these were DIY completed so infinite variations.
On my pals, condensation and leaks on the saloon windows is a problem. I'd copy some from a modern boat if you want to be dry.
Good luck

 

[Tranona]

Isn't that a massively heavy 2.5L engine for a small boat?

For me the main stumbling block would be engineering in the heat exchanger to cool the engine coolant but I guess that an engineer with access to a full workshop and welding gear etc could knock something up.

Richard

Agree. Boat originally had a BMC 1.5 of 35hp. The idea that you can use a converted automotive engine is really not workable unless there are marinisation bits available, which limits you to older engines such as the BMC, Perkins, Ford.

In addition to cooling, you also need a gearbox which means a bell housing and drive plate to mate to the engine which may not be available for that engine. Plus of course, fuel system, stern gear, exhaust, controls etc. When you add it all up the installation costs come to as much as 50% of the engine cost.

Starting from scratch with all new you won't get much change out of £10k, which could be brought down by up to 50% using a secondhand already marinised engine and box.

There's 25% minimum of the budget gone!

 

[pvb]

This is very poor.

No, it's the harsh truth, which Tranona also emphasised in post 34. It's simply not feasible to complete the boat within a £20K budget, and certainly not by the end of the season. Presumably there'll be an ongoing cost for the hull to sit in the marina's yard - the eBay ad said that was £245 a month, that's about £3K for every year of what will be a long process.

 

[Tranona]

No, it's the harsh truth, which Tranona also emphasised in post 34. It's simply not feasible to complete the boat within a £20K budget, and certainly not by the end of the season. Presumably there'll be an ongoing cost for the hull to sit in the marina's yard - the eBay ad said that was £245 a month, that's about £3K for every year of what will be a long process.

For obvious reasons agree completely. I think those that seem to believe enthusiasm and wishful thinking are a substitute for cash do the OP a disservice by leading him to think what he is trying to do is possible when it simply is not.

£20k is not an excessive budget for a typical 30 year refit and update of a functioning boat of that size and type as many on here will confirm. The notion that you can buy secondhand or modify gear that was designed for another application is just not tenable on this scale. For example just try finding 2 masts and booms (it seems to be a ketch) in serviceable condition that will just drop in - and even if you can how do you transport them to the boat? Or a complete steering system - pedestal, wheel, cables, quadrant. I could go on, but anybody with any experience of doing major work on a boat will get the picture.

You cannot avoid the fact that a boat of this size and type new would cost the thick end of £200k (like a new Contessa 32!) so how anybody can think you could build one for £20k just beggars belief.

 

[PaulRainbow]

As a fellow engineer, i think you can get this done for under the 20k if you are willing to make up parts etc. If we had gone ahead with the purchase of that hull, then I would have put a300tdi land rover engine in it <snip>

As a fellow engineer, i shall have to disown you as you have clearly lost the plot

That's going to weigh 250-300kg. It had about 110bhp with the turbo, take the turbo off and it'll have a lot less.

Peugeot XUD9, normally aspirated, will tip the scales at half the weight and had 70 bhp.

More plentiful than the Disco lump and even cheaper to pick up. All marinisation parts should be available for it too.

That said, i can't see any way someone could build a boat for less than £20k. This isn't a restoration project, it's a new build, just has the hull so far.

 

[Spyro]

It's an enormous job and as stated it's a new build and not a refit. Unless that boat is sitting in your back garden it's going to cost you a fortune by the time you have finished it. Sure you could buy all second hand parts and save some money but then you still basically have an old boat. After it's all cleaned up and the rot removed, stuck it back on eBay and hopefully get your money back. Take your 20k and spend it in something you can use. On the other hand stick at it. Do a regular update on YouTube and you might get enough subscribers to start making money out if it.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Most people I know who have carried out major restoration projects refuse to disclose how much they've spent just muttering "more than it's worth" or some such.
I'd guess that two masts are going to set you back 5k, rigging 3k, engine and ancillaries 8 - 10k, sails 6k, electronics 5k and there's plumbing, wiring, upholstery, gas, heating etc etc etc
To do this kind of project you must enjoy the process and not expect to get a boat on the cheap. I've only done minor refits and it always gobbled up money on trivial bits and pieces like stainless fixings. Good luck to them and keep us posted.

 

[GregOddity]

I have a set of plans still. What hull is she?

Shes the one with the raised cockpit .. sadly thats all I know as I got nothing inthe way of official names from the colvic brand

 

[GregOddity]

As a fellow engineer, i think you can get this done for under the 20k if you are willing to make up parts etc. If we had gone ahead with the purchase of that hull, then I would have put a300tdi land rover engine in it, sans turbo, cheap, easy to find parts for anywhere in the world. I would run freshwater, have hot running water and run an extra alternator, and maybe a generator on a dog clutch. You would also have basic hydraulics is you wanted it with the power steering motor, or upgrade to a bigger hydraulic motor. Mate engine to a marine gearbox and stern gear is easy. You will find a mast cheap or free somewhere if you trawl boatyards, along with lots of other bits.
Use the boat as a research and development opportunity, and have fun going against some of the perceived wisdom of the yacht world.
Engineers forever.

Now THAT is a REPLY Engineers FOR EVER !!! I been thinking of going radical and going for the 1920 sumariner option, Generator, battery bank , electric engine. marinising a diesel engine or going the Roman way and add Oars.. Phil said he was not going to row, so we skipped that one. I got a new mast for a couple of K and im gonna fabricate the hardware. simple. Anchor etc. My Kemppi TIG welder is looking at me with longing looks of anticipation. Bow roller.. now thats something that I only did a coupe so far and VERY big ones so im gonna have to do some research, but that one I got? its gonna go. A bit o'wind and it'll open up like a banana peel.

 

[GregOddity]

I consider EVERY opinion carefully, I listen, I try and understand the point, and I take what I consider useful according to MY OWN opinion and experience. I value everything said here so far. I appreciate the different points and perspectives and they all contribute to the colourful universe of sailing. I have read this forum for some years for the reason that a lot of good and interesting things are discussed here.
As with every discussion there are always different perspectives. The people that need to rely on people like me to fabricate the parts they need. And the people like me that fabricates the parts that people need.
So I will use my OWN EXPERIENCE and have loads and heaps of fun creating a unique project and making loads of funny mistakes that I will have even more fun correcting ( and asking for your help)

 

[Graham_Wright]

A couple of points. The deck was moulded with a long foot for single match and double. Likewise, the mizzen moulding appears on all as do the stay mounting pads.

However - I don't understand that companion way access. Mine has a coaming and a garage over the hatch.

 

[Tranona]

I consider EVERY opinion carefully, I listen, I try and understand the point, and I take what I consider useful according to MY OWN opinion and experience. I value everything said here so far. I appreciate the different points and perspectives and they all contribute to the colourful universe of sailing. I have read this forum for some years for the reason that a lot of good and interesting things are discussed here.
As with every discussion there are always different perspectives. The people that need to rely on people like me to fabricate the parts they need. And the people like me that fabricates the parts that people need.
So I will use my OWN EXPERIENCE and have loads and heaps of fun creating a unique project and making loads of funny mistakes that I will have even more fun correcting ( and asking for your help)

Just a thought. You do realise that you will not be able to legally sell the boat until at least 5 years after it is first launched as it will not comply with the RCD so you will not be able to get a CE mark. Also make sure that you keep all your receipts for materials and any bought in labour as a record of VAT paid.

These bothersome things along with the economics explain why nobody in their right mind builds boats themselves these days. But of course if you are in it for a laugh and to try and defy logic then all power to you.

 

[vas]

So I will use my OWN EXPERIENCE and have loads and heaps of fun creating a unique project and making loads of funny mistakes that I will have even more fun correcting ( and asking for your help)

agree with what you say, enjoy the trip, however, one of the main points of this forum is in steering you AWAY from mistakes, not laughing at them and helping you correct them!
of course if you report work done without discussing what will be done, there's no solution to that

and I'm talking from 4+yrs of experience on a rebuilt of a bigger motorboat that costed double of what you're planning to get things right, but was (theorticaly complete and working before I started working!

cheers

V.

 

[NormanB]

Just watched it too and commented - 'Well that should make it easier for you - no decisions it all has to come out! It would be interesting to hear the back story of the how and why of someone (or more than one) owning a boat for 30+ years and presumably paying the yard very year for ground rent and then what exactly?'

 

[Tam Lin]

I have a suggestion. Buy yourself a chain saw and hire a skip. When you have got rid of the boat take half of what you were going to spend on it and buy a boat in decent condition and go sailing!

 

[Caer Urfa]

During my 11 years research for my History of the Colvic Watson Motor Sailor I had quite a number of interviews with ex Colvic Craft Employees, your boat will have a hull/HIN number and it will be on the transome, on a Colvic Watson it is right on the canoe stern about 250/300 mm down from the top of the bulwarks, where exactly it is on a Colvic Countess 33 I am not sure, depending on her launch date it could be either a four digit number about 12mm high or a much longer number

However many boat hull numbers have been covered over when a rubbing strake was fitted

HIN numbers or Hull numbers were started in 1st November 1972 in the UK, the ‘hull number’ is the date that the hull mould was manufactured by Colvic Craft. It should be remembered however that ’ the hull number is not the launch date’ which in many cases can be a number of years later depending on the fit out time.

In more recent years again on August 1st 1984 due to new EEC regulations Colvic Craft changed the hull numbers which became longer but more informative, a typical number may have 14 letters and numbers:

This number is CCLGB2285511595 and translates as:-
 CCL= Colvic Craft Limited
 GB Great Britain
 22851 (2 = Mk 2 model , 2851= HIN/ hull number
 595 = 5th month 1995 (mould manufacture date)

If I can help further ask

Mike
View attachment 70007 View attachment 70006

 

[GregOddity]

During my 11 years research for my History of the Colvic Watson Motor Sailor I had quite a number of interviews with ex Colvic Craft Employees, your boat will have a hull/HIN number and it will be on the transome, on a Colvic Watson it is right on the canoe stern about 250/300 mm down from the top of the bulwarks, where exactly it is on a Colvic Countess 33 I am not sure, depending on her launch date it could be either a four digit number about 12mm high or a much longer number

However many boat hull numbers have been covered over when a rubbing strake was fitted

HIN numbers or Hull numbers were started in 1st November 1972 in the UK, the ‘hull number’ is the date that the hull mould was manufactured by Colvic Craft. It should be remembered however that ’ the hull number is not the launch date’ which in many cases can be a number of years later depending on the fit out time.

In more recent years again on August 1st 1984 due to new EEC regulations Colvic Craft changed the hull numbers which became longer but more informative, a typical number may have 14 letters and numbers:

This number is CCLGB2285511595 and translates as:-
 CCL= Colvic Craft Limited
 GB Great Britain
 22851 (2 = Mk 2 model , 2851= HIN/ hull number
 595 = 5th month 1995 (mould manufacture date)

If I can help further ask

Mike
View attachment 70007 View attachment 70006

DUDE ! thanks a bunch for that info. I've been trying to dig deeper into Colvic but have kinda been treading water on info. That is great info thanks. Im gonna do a search of the transom as I think she must have a hull number somewhere, Mike you are the man ! ! ! I will take you up on your offer. Thank you for making contact.

 

[doug748]

I wished you luck earlier, but your statement clearly shows that you don't have even a glimpse of a clue as to what's involved. You couldn't even buy the engine, sterngear, mast, rigging and sails for £20K. The project simply isn't worth doing, unless you've got nothing else in your lives.

This is poor.

This is poor because it is possible to question the new member's figures without working yourself up into a fug of moral outrage, calling him clueless, suggesting he has nothing in his life or withholding your fraternal good wishes.

Your equations of worth are missing some serious variables, to boot.