Use of "tinned" electrical cable?

When I was completing the wiring of my self build project, I couldn’t find (UK) any tinned single core cable suitably rated for use on 230vac systems. I found that most of the single core tinned cable ( such as Oceanflex) on offer from the usual online suppliers is only suitable DC systems up to 60v. I used this for all of the DC wiring but used Tri-rated single core cable in plastic conduit for all of the 230vac.
 
"Tinned Wire vs. Untinned

I get a lot of questions regarding tinned versus untinned wire, with many people believing that tinned wire is the only choice viable in the marine world.

Let there be no doubt, the tinning has no impact on amperage-carrying capability, it’s there to help mitigate corrosion migrating along a conductor under the insulation jacket via capillary action. There are tens of thousands of boats plying the waters of the world using untinned wiring that provides good service, and this has been true for decades!

Untinned copper wire (left) is used in boats with good results, but tinned wire (right) is better able to resist corrosion, both at terminals and in capillary action along the wire.

Untinned copper wire (left) is used in boats with good results, but tinned wire (right) is better able to resist corrosion, both at terminals and in capillary action along the wire.

Is tinned better? Sure. But is it a game changer? I would argue no, as long as you keep the ends of your wiring away from exposure to water, which is generally considered good practice anyhow.

Marine-Grade Wiring: Give Your Boat the Good Stuff - boats.com
My experience is somewhat different. I suspect if your boat sat in a marina for its life time and only went out of the marina on nice sunny days with gentle seas and light winds normal copper wire would suffice.
When you encounter rough weather, the air is full of salt spray and some sea water inevitably gets down below, then that tinned wire now has a huge advantage. Its the same thing with cheap deck plugs. They corrode for fun if they have a constant soaking from seawater.
My previous boat was all wired in none tinned cable. Not by me. It came like that.
After an Atlantic circuit in 04/05 I needed to rewire the boat. We had some rough weather. Lighting circuits in the saloon, cabins and galley all failed. When I stripped back the cables insulation the black corrosion extended many feet back down the wire. I took all the one tinned wires out and replaced them all with tinned.
If I was wiring a boat from scratch now. It would all be tinned. Sometimes we learn the hard way
 
Most of the original wiring on my boat, now 44yrs old is fine but any new or replacement wiring is tinned. (Except my solar panel wires which are stranded copper wires from the panel)
 
Our approach too. Clean dry dusty bilges and then it doesn't matter whether its tinned or not for internal use.

Pete
Trying going to sea. If the weather is bad enough you will get water in your bilge. I read a good account once of a Jen 45 pilot house who got mixed up with some very nasty weather. Thr boat leaked from every hatch, portlight and window. It wasn't an old boat but bad weather puts considerable strain on everything. Green water has a habit of making its way past hatch seals
 
That should do it but I usually shrink sleeve over the first shrink layer. My corroded wires had not been shrink covered and ran behind headlinings.

As I said, most of my wiring is original, untinned and in good condition, located in a dry, ventilated area. But if and when I add wiring runs I use tinned - it's a relatively small extra cost and hopefully lasts without worry.

It cannot be essential since cars don't use it? But they don't usually last for a half century.

I understood that not tinned cable if exposed to Salt Air does or will corrode ; Mine certainly did , on a Older Motor Boat left over winter on Estuary moorings The electric cables not only corroded but broke easily upon flexing them = URG
My experience is that using 'proper job' Tinned Copper flex on a Job is not that much more than using unsuitable non tinned flex : Its the time taken to do the job thats expensive in labour costs /time
 
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Just a quick comment on the domestic electrician, you should never use solid core cable on an application subject to vibration as it can crack.
This is often quoted but my boat was originally wired with solid core domestic cable and most of it has lasted over 50 years. It is not a particularly dry boat either. The pvc insulation is extruded tightly around the copper and so water cannot migrate down the cable. Also the surface area of a solid core is less than multistranded and so minor blackening can be scraped off and the connection remade. If the cable is adequately supported then fatigue is not a problem at least at the vibration levels I would find tolerable in my boat.
Having said that, the easy and cheap availability of tinned cable and IP67/68 junctions boxes, cable glands and connectors means that any new wiring I have added has been done to a much better standard than the original wiring. The most important thing is to keep the water out of cable ends and connections with good junction boxes and cable glands and then tinned wire is nice to have but not essential.
Another vote for adhesive lined heatshrink if you have an exposed connection.
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I only use tinned cable professionally and personally but it makes me laugh that items designed to get wet like bilge pumps from Whale and other well regarded manufacturers come with plain copper wire that I then connect to my nice expensive OceanFlex tinned stuff!
 
Apparently production boat builders don't use "tinned" cable.

That's an incorrect generalisation. The new build I'm picking up next month does. I requested it when ordering the boat and was informed that it is standard. The extra cost is buttons in the total build cost of a boat, whether home or professionally built. The big cost in a professionally built boat is the hourly rate of the electrician fitting it.
 
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When I was completing the wiring of my self build project, I couldn’t find (UK) any tinned single core cable suitably rated for use on 230vac systems. I found that most of the single core tinned cable ( such as Oceanflex) on offer from the usual online suppliers is only suitable DC systems up to 60v. I used this for all of the DC wiring but used Tri-rated single core cable in plastic conduit for all of the 230vac.
I'd be surprised if you did find it; mains voltage in the UK requires double insulation and there is little call for single core tinned wire given installations need at least 2 cores.
 
I'd be surprised if you did find it; mains voltage in the UK requires double insulation and there is little call for single core tinned wire given installations need at least 2 cores.

Ships and offshore installations use tinned low voltage power cables. Low voltage is according to IEC 60038 (below 1000V), not 12V, which falls in the extra-low voltage range.

https://www.superlecdirect.com/6573tq-3-core-1-5mm-marine-offshore-cable-black-lszh/

It's not too expensive. The extra cost over standard B&Q domestic cable in the small amount used in a typical boat installation would be peanuts. It doesn't have the standard core colours for mains electric installations, which may be against some regulation or other.
 
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Ships and offshore installations use tinned low voltage power cables. Low voltage is according to IEC 60038 (below 1000V), not 12V, which falls in the extra-low voltage range.
Loads of cables for the offshore industry. If you follow this link you will find one to thirty cores from 1mm2 to 630mm2. They do tend to have all the cores the same colour with embossed numbering which might cause confusion if you are expecting harmonized colours for your mains.
Batt cables
 
I'd be surprised if you did find it; mains voltage in the UK requires double insulation and there is little call for single core tinned wire given installations need at least 2 cores.
Double Insulated cable is common in a domestic environment, but a large percentage of commercial and the majority of industrial buildings are wired in single core cable contained within trunking and conduit.

Installations on boats require a protective earth system and so you will always require 3 cores unless you have a very basic system without sockets and made up of all class 2 equipment.
 
Double Insulated cable is common in a domestic environment, but a large percentage of commercial and the majority of industrial buildings are wired in single core cable contained within trunking and conduit.

Installations on boats require a protective earth system and so you will always require 3 cores unless you have a very basic system without sockets and made up of all class 2 equipment.
My original cabling installed in 1980 is in great condition. High quality tinned cable. A typical three core cable is individually insulated, then sheathed in rubber then sheathed in PVC. The only downside is the PVC has hardened over time
 
Ships and offshore installations use tinned low voltage power cables. Low voltage is according to IEC 60038 (below 1000V), not 12V, which falls in the extra-low voltage range.

https://www.superlecdirect.com/6573tq-3-core-1-5mm-marine-offshore-cable-black-lszh/

It's not too expensive. The extra cost over standard B&Q domestic cable in the small amount used in a typical boat installation would be peanuts. It doesn't have the standard core colours for mains electric installations, which may be against some regulation or other.

Try building a yacht from scratch and see if the cost is peanuts!:rolleyes:
 
Try building a yacht from scratch and see if the cost is peanuts!:rolleyes:
2.5mm square cable is suitable for ring circuits.

3 core 2.5mm square cable domestic use untinned cable is £2.00 per metre in B&Q in the UK when bought in small quantities.

The tinned marine use 3 core cable of the same size is £3.00 per metre from the link I gave.

A 35' boat with a small mains circuit of a few outlets, a low power immersion heater and a battery charger is unlikely to require more than 20m of cable. That's a cost difference of £20. That is peanuts.
 
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