Use of "tinned" electrical cable?

[AngusMcDoon]

Well maybe good advice , BUT , I have never heard anything on these pages , ONLY READ stuff - what am I doing wrong ? {)#

If you are on a Windows computer...

Windows key + control key + enter

I'm not telling you how to switch it off again.

 

[penfold]

Tinned wire enters the list of topics that I ought to ignore and are likely an exercise in trolling.

 

[Capt Popeye]

Sorry about mentioning it , but as I am in the midst of rewiring some of my Volvo Penta Bilge Pumps etc , I recall that in years gone by we used to ,as good practice to Vaseline (?) battery terminals to keep good contact t'ween terminals and clamps , so is it considered nowadays good practice to vaseline the lead /wire terminals : maybe the Vaseline would help keep any water out of the connections ?

 

[rotrax]

2) Solder has a high creep rate when mechanically stressed. This can cause joint failure much quicker than 1) above. If you solder a wire end and then make a mechanical connection with it, either crimped or some other kind of squeezed or screw down, the solder is mechanically stressed and slowly starts to deform plastically via creep. This will loosen the connection leading to possible failure, sometimes in only months. In addition it allows oxygen into the contact area initiating corrosion. The tinning on tinned wire is such a thin layer that any creep effect is negligible and crimped/squeezed connections are as good as untinned wire.

Absolutely on the money.

In WW2 Churchills baby, the newly formed SOE needed accurate timing for the explosives used in sabotage . The limpet mine, attached to ships with a strong magnet underwater was a challenge. The result was a simple spring loaded 'striker' held apart by a childs sweet, an anisiseed ball, which took exactly the right time to dissolve and set the bomb off.

It was found that acid pencils worked but were inaccurate. Clockwork types proved to be too delicate in the rough and tumble of an operation. Much effort was put in at the top secret SOE wepons factory where it was discovered that lead wire of a particular makeup 'crept' at a steady and consistent speed which allowed very precise control of ignition.

The word 'Gubbins' to describe oddball bits and pieces and weird concoctions comes from the instigator of much top secret weaponry. He was a Mr. Colin Gubbins.

 

[coopec]

Tinned wire enters the list of topics that I ought to ignore and are likely an exercise in trolling.

And maybe read earlier posts before giving gratuitous advice criticizing other people's efforts!

Aren't we having fun?

 

[coopec]

He was not arguing with you he was stating established engineering fact.

a. Don't use bus bars with grub screws with stranded wire. They are designed for solid wire (which cannot use crimp fittings). Same for chock blocks without pressure plates.

b. Crimp on ferrules.

c. Use medium stranded THHN type wire. Not optimal, but the coarser strands better withstand the damamge.

But soldering the ends and inserting those is known to be incorrect.

Does this spray have any use in stopping corrosion on cable ends for example where I have used stranded wire with a grub screw bus bar? Maybe it is something I should consider?



https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00040353/

 

[thinwater]

Does this spray have any use in stopping corrosion on cable ends for example where I have used stranded wire with a grub screw bus bar? Maybe it is something I should consider?

View attachment 152534

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00040353/

I get your idea, but this is for a different purpose.

Heavy grease is typically best, either a purpose-formulated product, or something like trailer bearing grease or seacock grease (I've tested US brands, but not UK--the tests included this sort of applications in salt spray chambers). It can really help. A vital step in damp locations. Also very good for quick-connectors and plugs of various sorts when there is damp around.

conductive grease and marine grease for terminals.
more terminal grease testing

 

[penfold]

And maybe read earlier posts before giving gratuitous advice criticizing other people's efforts!

Aren't we having fun?

Pedantic and erroneous insistence upon the last word is also trolling; at no point have I done so.

 

[coopec]

I would add, use conduit in areas where replacement would be difficult and install draw wires as you never know when you might want to add new wiring.

I used industrial type electrical "conduit" with snap on lids which I got from Bunnings (our national hardware chain)

 

[geem]

I used industrial type electrical "conduit" with snap on lids which I got from Bunnings (our national hardware chain)

Where are these located? I would have thought it would have been easier with round flexible pipe as it will bend around the shape of the boat. I have a couple of lengths of 50mm pipe in the bilge running front of back. We don't have any surface wiring. All wiring is hidden behind removable ceiling panels or in the bilge

 

[coopec]

The square conduit is fairly flexible so it follows the curvature of the yacht. My yacht has a cored f/g hull so I used self tapper screws to hold it in place. If it was solid f/g you'd use Sikaflex (an adhesive to secure it).

No trouble at all hiding the conduit behind the cabinets and settee.