dgadee
Well-known member
Too old to edit, it seems, but I have just noticed that for the cockpit cover I made I was using V92 on the Bernina.
Sewing machine for covers
- Thread starter Seastoke
- Start date
Puffin10032
Active member
V92 is probably the lightest thread you'd want to use for covers (many pros use V134). I assume you used something like a 125/20 needle although you might get away with 120/19 (which are a bit easier to find for most domestic machines). Not all domestic machines can handle that needle and thread size without some modification.
KAM
Well-known member
I use my wife's New Home. Modified with lead strip wrapped round the flywheel for extra momentum. V92 has lasted well on stack Pac and sail cover made 14 years ago.
thinwater
Well-known member
For repairs, don't underestimate the practicality of hand stitching. A palm can be faster than getting the machine out, getting the canvas into the machine, and getting a machine going that you don't often use and aren't good with. There is a learning curve. But I've spent a lot of time with a palm.
Seastoke
Well-known member
Before I purchase a machine, a question for you guys. I need to repair my boat cover in the centre which is two metres , how do you do that on a machine when there is around 12 inch gap.
Graham376
Well-known member
Roll it from both edges. 2m of fabric will roll quite tightly, particularly if no windows in it.
PCUK
Well-known member
Roll it up tightly.
dgadee
Well-known member
The Sailrite has 7" space between needle and main casting. Most domestic machines are similar. I made a cockpit cover for a 30 foot boat using one. It can be done - I bought clips to hold the rolled up material which then went through the gap. For that project, because my Bernina only had 4mm stitch length I used the zig zag option - that gave me a better and stronger stitch. For upholstery, 4mm is fine.
Rappey
Well-known member
Keep an eye on fb marketplace. Some bargains can be found, such as a bernina 217 industrial, well looked after, serviced ,zig zag and straight - £250 
DownWest
Well-known member
Humm, I have a 'New World' Japanese built for the US market. Swopped it far a gas fridge in about 1989. Does zig zag and stitches through up to seven layers of light sail cloth. Made the sails for my little Oughtred boat and several for friends boats. Set up a couple of doors to allow the flow of material through the throat.
KAM
Well-known member
I put new Windows in my sprayhood using my wife's New Home machine. It wasn't that difficult. The important thing is to develop the skills to manipulate and guide the cloth. Muscle memory and all that. It usually takes some time to get back up to speed after a lay off.
doug748
Well-known member
As the others have said.
You end up wrestling a light machine all over the shop unless you screwr it down . A large harp ( as the Americans call it {the space under the arm} helps a lot).
Use v69 thread on a domestic machine and save yourself a lot of heartbreak.
.
dgadee
Well-known member
One point to consider. If you are buying 2nd hand it may need a service. I paid £200 for a service for my machine before I started using it in anger.
KAM
Well-known member
My wife bought the New Home 50 years ago. It's never been serviced. I oiled it a couple of years ago. It's bloody heavy. I can hardly lift it. Several on eBay for not very much.
dgadee
Well-known member
What model?
Metalicmike
Active member
I'm keeping my eye out for a cheep long arm machine, made all the interior and exterior bench cushions with a domestic machine.
KAM
Well-known member
Attachments
srm
Well-known member
Surprised that no mention of the Reeds Sailmaker if you can find one. I bought mine new in the mid 70's and used it a few weeks ago to repair a friend's sail. Cast iron body and all stainless steel components. All its needed is cleaning and a few drops of thin oil every couple of years. Some years ago I was using it on the boat to alter the bimini that I had made. An American friend was amazed that it did not have a motor and brought his wife along to see it. In fact it did have a motor originally but I soon stopped using it as the hand crank gave far better fine control.
Metalicmike
Active member
I put some strips of masking tape on the table, a few on top of each other behind the machine to stop it sliding about. My biggest problem was sourcing strong enough thread, also a walking foot is definitely an advantage. I bent quite a few 100 needles probably due to over heating.
Does anyone still darn socks?
