Sewing machine for covers

Martin_J

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To be honest that sounds like wrong tension. Have you cleaned the bobbins and adjusted the tension ,?

All Puffin10032 did was to swap from standard foot to one of those even feed (aka walking foot) feet and back again.. Standard foot gave nice stitches and the other didn't

My suggestion about the even feed foot issue referred to it getting in the way of allowing the foot presser bar to fully lower which could affect the upper tension in a way that would be beyond any easy adjustment with the upper dial.

So I agree.. tension.. but faulty due to the the other foot contraption.
 

Puffin10032

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To be honest that sounds like wrong tension. Have you cleaned the bobbins and adjusted the tension ,?

Done all that and more. It's not tension because as I pointed out swapping back to a plain steel presser foot WITHOUT touching the tension resolves the issue. Whilst I'm a very, very long way from being a sewing machine engineer I did work as a sailmaker for some years in my youth so I'm fairly practiced as sorting out such issues. There's clearly something going on which I'm missing but to be honest having spent many, many frustrating hours on something which only provides marginal gains I don't feel inclined to experiment any further. I've made many, many sails over the years on machines with a plain steel presser foot. Our old 107W1 didn't even have reverse but we worked around that easily enough.
 

dgadee

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Tension experts! Tell me why when you set tension for material and sew 2 depths, you don't need to change the tension for 4, 6, 8 ... I would have thought that you needed to alter the tension for the various depths of material, but it seems you don't.
 

Graham376

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Tension experts! Tell me why when you set tension for material and sew 2 depths, you don't need to change the tension for 4, 6, 8 ... I would have thought that you needed to alter the tension for the various depths of material, but it seems you don't.

When sewing two layers, bottom thread has already been pulled up between the layers by top tension. When you add other layers, the bottom thread remains in the same place so no extra tension needed.
 

Rappey

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Tension experts! Tell me why when you set tension for material and sew 2 depths, you don't need to change the tension for 4, 6, 8 ... I would have thought that you needed to alter the tension for the various depths of material, but it seems you don't.
Maybe its dependant on the machine. I don't always use the right needle size for the thread and my tensions are the same for thin up to thick material yet it still delivers a decent stitch. I do occasionally have to have an adjustment session to set it back on the correct path.
 

Rappey

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For £20 i would give it a go ..if your after a machine just for your repair then give it a go. If you have ambitions for making covers then buy a industrial which would probably outlast you.
The old domestic machines were built strong with no plastic parts.
75w though.. mine is 550w . The difference between domestic and industrial is the sewing speed and power.(and build quality)
Many pros laugh at the term " semi industrial" and say there is no such thing. If the motor is mounted above the table its domestic/diy and below is industrial.
 

Puffin10032

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Is this one OK can't see a model number the motor is 75w its £20

I _think_ it's a 317. I can't remember if the 300 series were slant needle like the 400 series was but looking it up, it takes 15x1 needles so I'm guessing not (which is a good thing). You can't really lose much at that price. An upgrade to a YDK 90 watt motor might be worth it.
 

Graham376

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For £20 i would give it a go ..if your after a machine just for your repair then give it a go. If you have ambitions for making covers then buy a industrial which would probably outlast you.
The old domestic machines were built strong with no plastic parts.
75w though.. mine is 550w . The difference between domestic and industrial is the sewing speed and power.(and build quality)
Many pros laugh at the term " semi industrial" and say there is no such thing. If the motor is mounted above the table its domestic/diy and below is industrial.

The Sailrite is only 75W, it's power comes from the gearing and the heavy (Monster) wheel. Compared to the average domestic machine it's slow but that's no bad thing for us novices.
 

Poignard

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I did a lot of work and alterations on my covers, including a large winter cover, using my Singer 401G Slant-O-Matic.


I think I paid £130.00 for it but that included all the cams and a lot of attachments.
 

srm

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And a mechanic, electrician, bosun, navigator, commander, purse, rigger, doctor, dentist, cook, painter, labourer, or whatever the situation requires. 😁
And a welder while I owned a steel boat. An engineer friend said my welds looked like chewing gum, but nothing broke while I owned her.
 

Puffin10032

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If the motor is mounted above the table its domestic/diy and below is industrial.

No longer universally true. Some more modern industrials are labelled as "direct drive". They have the servo motor mounted on the head alongside the speed controls.
 

Puffin10032

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Here you go, for 20 quid ideal:



Oops just seen the earlier post (y)
.
Thanks for posting that. I didn't notice that the 317 had an internal motor. That's a negative point for me as sourcing a replacement motor, if one is ever needed, might prove problematic.
 

Seastoke

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Hi guys this is the sizes of what the machine will take , what size do I need including thread and where would I buy . Thanks
 

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