Round Britain day 100

[Concerto]

That is right, 100 days since I started this trip.

Everything went to plan this morning and I left at 9.00, such a civilised hour to start. There was no wind, so motoring was the order of the day. After an hour or so, a little breeze started about 30 degrees off the port bow, so raised full main. It took a long time before the wind backed and I could then unfurl the genoa, but still with the engine on. Later as I approached Land's End, the wind dropped and the genoa was furled again.

My calculations said slack water would be about 16.30, so when I arrived off Pendeen Lighthouse at 3.30, I was surprised to find the tide had turned and I was punching 2 knots of tide. Heading closer to the cliffs reduced the tide to between ½ to 1 knot, except when I picked up a back eddy and had a knot of fair tide. Slightly later than planned, I reached Land's End and headed east, pointing towards home. Home is such a magic word after 100 days onboard.

The wind suddenly started on the beam, so I unfurled the genoa and started sailing at 5½ knots with ½ knot of tidal benefit - with the engine off. It only lasted about ¾ hour before the wind dropped and became too close to sheet the genoa due to a course change to head up towards Newlyn. Looking astern I saw this big white boat thundering along to pass my starboard side. It was creating quite a wash. The photo explains all.

About a mile from Newlyn entrance, I dropped the main and brought out the fenders. After fitting the basic 3 aside, I contacted the harbour by VHF. It was confusing at first as Penzance replied the gate would not drop for another hour. Then Newlyn chipped in and said they would check the finger berths and call me back. Another yacht then entered the harbour and I heard nothing. After 10 minutes I called again, but no response, so went for the rigging to moor both sides. Now very close to the entrance I called again and got a reply. The Harbourmaster would be standing at the end of the pier and would dirct me to a finger berth. As I approached I noticed a fishing boat just about to leave the harbour, so pulled to starboard to let him pass. Once inside I saw the harbourmaster and headed towards him. Then from the far side of this quay another fishing boat was moving, so I used the VHF. The HM, then said the boat was going round the end of the pier to unload, so I had to move away from the end of the quay. The HM then directed me to a berth a few in from the hammerhead to moor starboard side. As I approached another owner took the bow line whilst I attached the stern spring and breast. Walking forward I then fixed the spring and breast. My helper liked my system and said he was going to try it as he was singlehanded. After turning the engine off and adjusting the position in the berth slightly, I asked someone who looked like an aging hippy for the gate code.

This was interesting as he was from New Zealand and called John. He is over visiting his son who now lives in the UK. For the extended holiday he planned to use an electric bike and cycle round the UK, staying in hotels. When he found out how much they cost per night, he was shocked. So he decided to buy a boat and sail as the marina fees are far lower than hotels. 3 weeks ago he completed on a Westerly Konsort, which he is delighted with. She will be lifted when he goes home and relaunched next year. We must have chatted for nearly an hour, but he wanted to go to a pub for a pint and a meal. I had already decided to get some fish and chips, so did not join him. The HM wanted me to go to his office to sign in, but I could not find it. So I went to get the fish and chips, only to find they had stopped cooking 15 minutes earlier. On the way there I had passed a Co op and a Chinese takeaway, so looked at the takeaway menu. They did a meal for one that I liked the sound of for £12. No need to go to the Co op tonight.

After devouring the meal, I contacted the HM to find where his office was located, not in a place I had considered looking. As I walked along part of the fish harbour, a pick up stopped and the HM said he had to drop a cradit card off the someone had left it in the machine, but to wait in the office. Once he returned, we completed the paperwork and I paid for 2 nights. Then we started chatting, I mentioned the trip and he talked about his time as an engineering employee at the local RNLI, plus a few other things. When I finally left it was just turned 23.00. Back at the boat I hooked up the electric and it did not work. A quick phone call and the HM turned it on remotely. He should have charged me, but he said forget it.

If you missed it, I added some drome photos of Padstow to the last thread.
Round Britain day 98


Gulland Rock, just south of Padstow entrance


No wind, just a glassy sea


This diving support vessel slowly crossed my bow, she was towing some survey equipment - may be more wind turbines


Pendeen Lighthouse


Geevor Tin Mine


Turbulent water on the rocks off Sennen Cove


Land's End


Longships Lighthouse


An uninviting coast to approach


The Minnack Theatre where an orchestra were rehearsing


That big white boat, the Scillonian ferry from the Isles of Scilly



For anyone wanting to read the reports from the start, this is the link to first one.
Round Britian day 1
All the links with place names are in my about me page available from my avatar.

 

[Charlie Boy]

You’ve got to try the crab soup in the Red Lion, just above the harbour!

 

[Concerto]

You’ve got to try the crab soup in the Red Lion, just above the harbour!

Heavy rain is forecast for today, so I might treat myself to a visit for the soup.

 

[Hacker]

I’m off to Penzance today, but umpiring a hockey match (and hoping it doesn’t rain). If you are stopping in Falmouth and need anything just drop me a message.

 

[Concerto]

I’m off to Penzance today, but umpiring a hockey match (and hoping it doesn’t rain). If you are stopping in Falmouth and need anything just drop me a message.

This trip I am trying to visit harbours I have never been to before. My next port will be Plymouth as I have never in all my years sailing been there as we usually went to the Yealm, so skipping Falmouth this trip. Then it will be Brixham, followed by Portland and Swanage Bay, again all for the same reason. I must be in the Hamble by the 14th as I will be at the boat show every day, using my bike to get there, so I am becoming time limited.

If you want to meet in Newlyn this afternoon, sent me a PM and I will let you have my mobile number.

Roger
Concerto

 

[Sandy]

Looks like you have had a close encounter with the 'vomit comet', aka The Scillonian.

 

[Blueboatman]

Well , great blog and photos .
100 days ! sailing in fresh sea breezes and exertion
Surely that equals 1000 extra days to added to your life later
Plus 100 x many memories

 

[Concerto]

If you look at the time I posted the first post in this report you will understand why I had a lie in this morning. It was short lived as a boat arrived early this morning and had slipped between Concerto and another boat on the other finger, so filling the gap. This did not disturb me, but at 10.30 I heard a tapping on the hull as the interlopper wanted to fix a spring on my stern cleat as the boat on the other pontoon finger was leaving. Once he had left they moved over to the finger. As it was chucking it down and I was still in my pj's, I left them to it and climbed back in bed to read the news on my phone. When the rain stopped I quickly pulled some clothes on and went for a shower. As a precaution, I took an umbrella with me. It was chucking it down when I finished, so I was prepared.

With a rumble from my stomach, I had a late brunch or early lunch. It involved cooking some toast. Unfortunately I was interupted as I saw a French RM 1070 being directed to "the gap". He was single handed and was going to reverse in. Turned the grill off and put on shoes and a coat to assist as it was raining lightly. He made a very neat job of berthing and I held the bow steady so he could rig his lines to the other boat. Then back below to have lunch or whatever you want to call it.

Once the tummy rumbles had been satisfied, it was time to look at the forums and emails. The bell to the top right indicating replies and likes is always red whenever I check this forum, frequently in double numbers and sometimes with a Private Message. It still amazes me, how much many of you love my posts of this trip. Thank you so much. I looked at the number of likes compared to the number of posts I have made, it is sitting at over 60%. Wow, before I started this trip is was quite high at about 40%. So I repeat, thank you all so much for appreciating my written words and photographs. If any one wishes to meet me, as a quite a few have done from this forum, I always try to be accomodating whilst in port. However, there is more good news. I am being given an exhibitors pass for the Southampton Boat Show by the Westerly Owners Association and will be on their stand everyday at 2pm for about an hour, so don't be shy, come and say hello. If you cannot make that time do not panic as the stand will have my mobile number, and will give me a call to arrange a different time.

Back to today. Off I wander into Newlyn to see what there is to the town as the rain had stopped. About 40 years ago I stayed in a house with some friends for a holiday, so there have been a few changes. Finally I needed some supplies before I wandered back to the boat. You guessed it, the rain started again. After storing the supplies and a quick check of the forum, I was just going to get the drone out as the rain had stopped, when there was a knock on the hull. It was John from New Zealand carrying a half empty bottle of wine and a mug. He needed a bit of company as today was 10 years since his wife of over 40 years had died. We talked a lot about sailing and he told me how he lost his boat 4 years ago. It started with an electrical short, which then started fire in the aft cabin and filled the cabins with dense black smoke. He managed to disconnect the battery and extinguish the fire. With no power, he was fairly helpless and had to sail to an offshore island and anchor. He had a little charge in his hand held VHF and placed a Pan call. He was taken off the boat, but they could not tow his 36ft yacht due to the possiblity of a fire again. He would have to arrange a commercial tow. The tow company insisted he check the boat was still where it had been anchored, which involved hiring a light aircraft to check. It was, so the tow company set off for the 5 hour trip. Unfortunately a 35 knot storm blew up and the yacht dragged her anchor about 15 miles and by the time the tow company located her, she was wrecked on some rocks. He was not insured and it was his home. He was homeless, so he bought a motorhome to live in, which he still has. Slowly he drank the half bottle of wine and was quite mellow. After about an hour and a half he needed to go cook a meal. Before he left I noticed some small birds on the pontoon that I did not recognise, so took a quick photo. Checking a bird book, I think they are Turnstones, a bird I had never heard of. Looking at the photo, they are very unusual as they all only have one leg!

I looked at the time, it was now 7.30. If I flew the drone, I would not be able to have the fish and chips I missed last night as they close at 20.00. Back into town and queue to order, and had to wait whilst it was cooked. Another man had followed me off the pontoon and was in the queue to order. He then came over and I found out he was the man who was in my cockpit this morning. Chatting, we realised we both used the ybw forums and his handle is Rotrax. It is such a small world. They had sailed from Arklow direct to Newlyn. Interrupted by my order being ready, we shall try and chat again tomorrow. As I walked back to the boat, it started to rain again.

The one thing I did learn today is my folding umbrella can be left to dry under the sprayhood. As a precaution to stop the wind catching it, I passed a winch handle through the carrying strap as I do not want to effect another umbrella rescue! There endeth today's events.


I think these are one legged Turnstones

 

[rotrax]

Had a chat with Concerto and John the Kiwi today. Looks like we might be here a few days with the high winds coming and going.

Worse places to spend a few days than Newlyn. Especially with plenty of like minded Sailors to chat to

 

[Concerto]

The weather forecast is looking poor for the next few days, so today I stayed put. The same applies for almost the rest of the week.

When I got up this morning, the Frenchman in his RM 1070 had already left. After checking the forums, I was just going to go ashore to dump some rubbish and another yacht was about the fill the empty gap, so I gave them a hand. After dumping the rubbish I walked along the main fish quay to get a photo of the moored yachts. As I walked along there was a muscular fisherman keeping the tension on a massive cable as it was being rewound on his boat. I jovially said he wasn't doing well in the tug of war, and he chuckled. On my way back he had almost finished the rewind. Chatting with him, he said the cable, which I guess was about 40mm across, was only 4 months old. When fitted it was 200m long, but due to a breakage it is now only 160m. He then said it was not as bad as a few years ago when their scallop boat had snagged a rock on the sea bed and flipped over. The crew sat on the up turned hull for 3 hours whilst it slowly sank by the bow. As the bow dipped, finally the life raft was released. A passing ship responded to the MayDay call and picked the crew up. The insurance company paid out £1.2 million.

After a late lunch I was going to go for a walk and started talking to another owner. He had a few weeks earlier bought a Coaster 33 motor sailer, but he is a local and used to be one of the harbourmasters in Newlyn. Then Rotrax joined us, then it was just Rotrax and me talking. It was certainly a mutually interesting conversation, no doubt over the next few days we shall have a few more chats to stave off dockside boredom. Walking along the pontoon a Turnstone was very close, so I can now confirm they do have 2 legs. Then I went for a walk to the elevated road alongside the harbour to take some more photos. By this time the wind was increasing and white capped rollers were crashing up the nearby beach, but the harbour remained almost calm. Then I noticed some waves were slamming against the harbour wall and I have a screen grab from the video showing the height the water reached. There was a trawler about to enter the harbour, so I took some video to show how it was rolling. I did discover 2 interesting wall plaques noting some interesting events associated with Newlyn, see the photos below.

As I walked back towards the marina, I was passing the Red Lion and saw the board advertising their crab soup, which Charlie Boy had recommended in post #2. As it was now gone 1800, I decided to have some. They were fully booked, but I could sit in the beer garden, which I reluctantly agreed to. I moved tables three times. After sitting down, I realised there were a few more tables further round with a limited view of the harbour. Whilst I waited for the soup I reviewed the photos and videos. Then the rain started. No, I did not sit there and get wet. There was one table under cover of a lean to shed, so that was the third table move. Once the large bowl of crab soup arrive, the rain was really chucking it down. The soup was certainly hot and full of flavour, but I was in no rush to finish. As the rain finally eased off to a light drizzle, I finished my pint and then walked back to the boat, arriving just after 20.00.


The small section of the fishing harbour for yachts, Rotrax'x boat is the cream one


Turnstones do have 2 legs


The old harbour wall with a renovated small Seamans Mission


90%+ of all the boats in the harbour are fishing boats


The slow death of Mirror dinghy 20649


Several of these fishing boat have been left to rot


Boats drying out with legs for support


That is pretty high for waves slamming against the harbour wall, higher than the harbour light


Entering the harbour at last, with St Michael's Mount in the distance


It looks a bit top heavy, but that is normal today


So Newlyn was connected to the Mayflower before she sailed to America with the first settlers


The fishing lugger sailed from Newlyn to Hobson's Bay, Melbourne, Australia taking just under 4 months

 

[Charlie Boy]

I’m pleased that the Red Lion soup has survived Covid! Hope the effort was worth it

 

[Blueboatman]

Enjoying the read as ever
If you’re stuck a day or two more , a s/h copy of this might be of interest . Equally it might not !
Radio 4 picked it up and read it a while back

Dark, Salt, Clear: Life in a Cornish Fishing Town: Amazon.co.uk: Ash, Lamorna: 9781526600059: Books

 

[Concerto]

Enjoying the read as ever
If you’re stuck a day or two more , a s/h copy of this might be of interest . Equally it might not !
Radio 4 picked it up and read it a while back

Dark, Salt, Clear: Life in a Cornish Fishing Town: Amazon.co.uk: Ash, Lamorna: 9781526600059: Books

So far on this trip I have read IIRC 14 books. Some are novels and others are historical on mainly WWII. Currently reading "Aftermath, life in the fallout of the Third Reich" by Harald Jähner. ISBN 9780753557884 It was shortlisted for the Baillie Gifford Prize for Non-Fiction last year. It is certainly an area of WWII history that has been poorly covered, the problems with mass emigration, cities in ruins, the conflicts within a land without any social order, massive shortages of food, clothing and homes, returning POW's, etc. Compelling and fascinating, plus at times horrifying at how cruel man can be to fellow man in the aftermath of war. I still have at least another 4 books awaiting being read.

 

[Blueboatman]

So far on this trip I have read IIRC 14 books. Some are novels and others are historical on mainly WWII. Currently reading "Aftermath, life in the fallout of the Third Reich" by Harald Jähner. ISBN 9780753557884 It was shortlisted for the Baillie Gifford Prize for Non-Fiction last year. It is certainly an area of WWII history that has been poorly covered, the problems with mass emigration, cities in ruins, the conflicts within a land without any social order, massive shortages of food, clothing and homes, returning POW's, etc. Compelling and fascinating, plus at times horrifying at how cruel man can be to fellow man in the aftermath of war. I still have at least another 4 books awaiting being read.

Excellent
I agree . Our ability to disconnect from our actions to others is extraordinary .

It is in part why I detest the ‘ greed is good ‘ culture because it is essentially sociopathic

 

[Frogmogman]

Good luck with the rest of your trip Roger. Looks like we have some pretty fruity weather heading across the Atlantic.

 

[Concerto]

Good luck with the rest of your trip Roger. Looks like we have some pretty fruity weather heading across the Atlantic.

Looking at moving tomorrow as the winds are in the 20 knot region and SW, making it a fast reach for the 70 miles to Brixham. Then on Friday move to Portland. Then the weather looks slightly better. I need to be in the Hamble on the 14th, so no excessive winds or distances to complete this section of the journey. Then it is boat show time as I will be there every day.

 

[Habebty]

Surely the Scillonian is due for replacement? I can remember a trip on it 45 years ago! (as a teenager I hasten to add ? )

 

[owen]

scillonian is due to be replaced, there is a consultation at presentScillonian III replacement exhibition: feedback sought on proposed interior for the new passenger ferry | Council of the ISLES OF SCILLY

 

[Concerto]

Today has been a very lazy day. Did a few jobs on board including fitting the 8mm bolt on the autopilot arm. Also did a fair bit of reading to relax and watched a bit of television. The longest walk today was to the harbourmasters office to pay the couple of extra days I have stayed, so I never left the confines of the harbour. There have been some heavy rain showers this afternoon and the Lightning app on my phone pinged quite a few times to register stikes nearby.

Repeated checking of the weather forecasts for the next few days, has confirmed I can move eastward tomorrow, it should be a fast ride as the wind should be between 20 and 35 knots from the south and later veering to south west. Initially a close fetch to the Lizard, then a beam reach. Planning to leave about 8 for the 70 miles to Brixham. I expect to be making about 6½ to 7 knots, so about 11 hours to get there. When I advised the boat moored alongside I would be leaving at 8, they said not a problem as they are leaving at 6 and heading for Padstow. If they disturb me I might even leave a bit earlier. If I cannot make the right speed, I can always drop into Salcombe as a safe place to shorten the trip, but would rather not.

Coming along the South Coast I am trying to use harbours and marinas I have never been to before. The only places I have visited before on this trip were at the start, moored at Pin Mill on the Orwell and Lowestoft, but at a different marina to last time. This does seem such a long time ago as it was on days 1 and 2. Every place since then have all been new harbours for me, so I am trying to continue in the same vain until I reach the Hamble.

Will update you late tomorrow. Just hope I get a few nice photos and videos.

 

[ashtead]

Brixham is a lovely destination,plenty to do and see but strangely no petrol on the fuel pontoon. Hopefully the marina facilities won’t disappoint as they are basic but staff very friendly/helpful . Luckily you won’t have to park a car as that seems to be an issue there. A good restaurant down by the fishing boats plus fish for sale if DIY is your style. The yacht club looked rather deserted when we visited and a fair walk from MDL land. If you fancy a cooling dip there is a lido pool past the lifeboat station ?