burgundyben
Well-known member
Jesus wept in his weetabix, this is monster shenanigins!
Well done for tackling it.
Well done for tackling it.
One MAN engine fails on last day end last trip of our summer holliday’s
- Thread starter BartW
- Start date
Pinnacle
Well-known member
Fingers crossed for you tomorrow, Bart.:encouragement:
BartW
Well-known member
Lift out went smooth, just a little tricky with the radar arch position,
Engine is in the workshop now,
Boat back in its berth
Flybridge hatch recaulked (tempor.) avoiding water come through,
boarding my plane in a few minutes
Pics will follow
Engine is in the workshop now,
Boat back in its berth
Flybridge hatch recaulked (tempor.) avoiding water come through,
boarding my plane in a few minutes
Pics will follow
Forty_Two
Well-known member
Phase 1 over, wish you good luck with the next part Bart
Paul
Paul
Latestarter1
New member
Bart
I think this is maybe the best option long term.
Cat and Cummins have always had a standard repair practice in the event of a spun bearing. Block is machined to take a repair saddle which is manufacturer available standard service repair part. Saddle is riveted in place and block line bored, all a bit of a ***, and blocks comparatively inexpensive. . Your V block is not the greatest in terms of rigidity and I am not sure there is an approved practice for MAN/Mercedes blocks so you are in the hands of a machine shop solution.
Perhaps you should consider a new block. As I mentioned in earlier post MAN and Mercedes shared blocks in this period, Atlantis Diesel (MB Subsidiary) had a large foundry producing these blocks, they used to be two a penny. May be time to look for a replacement.
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Hardmy
Member
Bart, je te tiens les pouces pour la suite!
I'm also with old fully mechanical lumps (3208TA) and I like them.
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
Yup agree. I've had 3 boats with these engines and never a moment's trouble. Simple things compared to the latest electronically managed lumps
tinkicker0
New member
After a spun bearing I have them line bored only if the damage is mainly limited to the cap with the saddle requiring only a very light dressing. Any significant damage to the saddle and I add my agreement to Latestarters opinion and advocate a replacement block.
I usually check the block trueness and bearing size as part of the initial build process via measuring the torque required to turn the crank when all caps are torqued down into an empty block. Not usually any book figures for this, but my personal comfort zone for a 5 bearing crank of this size would be between 6 and 12Nm. 6 being a bit baggy and 12 a little tight.
Note that all the figures I quote are in the interests of quantifiable and repeatable results in the build process, done in the quest for standardised procedure and uniform quality over a large number of builds and a number of different fitters, they are not cast in stone and individual builds should be taken on merit with due consideration to the holy workshop manual where the info is available, and the experience of the fitter if not. Still, above 12Nm and I would suspect block alignment / bearing nip issues.
When having to build anything that comes through the door, and most often not having access to anything other than the most sketchy build info as my employers are too tight to buy the manuals, then I have to fall back on my own personal go / no go list of values. This may differ significantly from what the book says, therefore treat the official manual as the gospel according to MAN if the info is available.
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Latestarter1
New member
Thanks to TK we are back on track. Not sure how we ended with excursion into silly pointless CAT 3208 territory. Just waiting for for some clown to start referring to engines as 'lumps', stupid 1980's journalist macho speak.
petem
Well-known member
Charming!
D
Deleted User YDKXO
Guest
A bit intemperate, LS1. Who appointed you as the thread drift stasi?
BartW
Well-known member
here some pics as promissed
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jrudge
Well-known member
Wow. Well done !
AndieMac
Well-known member
Massive job Bart, good work by your team.
I know it was a lot of preparation to eventually remove the engine block, even removing the ancillary pieces is heavy, arkward work on an engine the size of yours in the confines of an engine room, but thankfully the saloon was avoided during the evacuation.
Good luck with the diagnosis and rebuild, will be watching closely.
I know it was a lot of preparation to eventually remove the engine block, even removing the ancillary pieces is heavy, arkward work on an engine the size of yours in the confines of an engine room, but thankfully the saloon was avoided during the evacuation.
Good luck with the diagnosis and rebuild, will be watching closely.
jfm
Well-known member
Wow Bart! Good going on getting it out that way. I see that the passerelle stayed in place and that you turned the engine 90 degrees and it fitted through the gap, but the engine was heavily stripped down. It looks like it was a close fit. When the engine is rebuilt and has its cylinder heads on, with it fit down the same gap, or will the passerelle have to be moved? Maybe it is easier to tilt the radar arch back (to allow the crane wire to move 500mm aft, then there is no need to rotate 90degrees) than to remove the passerelle? No doubt you have thought about all this!
Robg71
New member
just read this, sorry to hear Bart.
hope all goes back together well.
hope all goes back together well.
MapisM
Well-known member
Impressive pics indeed.
I know nothing about these guys, but based on the following pic alone there's one thing I can tell for sure:
They have a great deal of confidence on what they are doing!
I know nothing about these guys, but based on the following pic alone there's one thing I can tell for sure:
They have a great deal of confidence on what they are doing!
BartW
Well-known member
if we were that far !! :ambivalence:
we prepared the passerel for shifting backwards, disconnecting all wires and some parts of the hydraulic system,
but only then we noticed on the outside that we would have to cut a metal piece of the door mechanism, (with a grinder ..) and dismantle the covering in the utility room,
so decided to avoid to do that.
also tilting the radar arch, would be possible, the construction allows to do that, but would require lots of repairing work; new cover plates, filler, painting...
so only a last resort, or last minute decision.
but I believe that if we open the complete cockpit floor, (the Port panel is still in its place in the pics)
and moving the crane cable / hook + engine more to Port,
that it will work, lowering the engine right in the middle of the E/R,
and then move it below the passerel frame...
there still is the folded canopy against the radar arch that I can take out, gives me about 15cm more width,
and I'm going to advice them to replace the lifting bridle, by a spreader bar, and lifting that with just one cable to the hook,
this gives more room to play with
(all difficult to explain, but you will understand)
and then a assembled engine might go in there.
BartW
Well-known member
very well spotted !
if you see the stripped engine on the pics, being lifted, it still seems a big machine,
but if you saw that next to the other, its only half the size of the complete engine,
in hight aswell as in width
BartW
Well-known member
They have a great deal of confidence on what they are doing!
I'm pleased to confirm that the Guy's gave a confident impression, they knew what they were doing,
It was not the first time they did something like this,
they had a "system" for such a job.:encouragement:
but when I saw all the boxes with parts and screws, and pipes, and studs,
I had to scratch my head:ambivalence:
