Multitool saw blade for SS316

[Ian_Edwards]

Hi
I'm looking for a mulitool saw blade which will cut through No 12, 316 SS self tapping screws.
All the metal cutting blades I've tried, might make through one screw, before becoming completely blunt.
Preferably, the blade should have as small a kerf as possible.
I don't mind (that much) if the blade is expensive, I have a lot of screws to cut, and I'm currently wasting a lot of time, trying to use unstable blades.
My guess is that the SS self tapping screws are stamped, which will work harden the the SS, making them very difficult to cut.

 

[rogerthebodger]

You can get abrasive, and diamond cutting based for multitools that look like they will ut stainless steel.

When cutting stainless steel I generally use an angle grinder with a cutting disk

 

[greeny]

May not help you in your situation but in the past I have put the screw in, measured the offcut, removed the screw and cut with a dremel grinding disc and then replaced the screw. Will the screws come out easily to use this method?

 

[PCUK]

I've never found a Multitool blade that will easily cut stainless. As Roger says, a small grinder is the usual answer.

 

[Laysula]

Why not buy shorter screws?

 

[PCUK]

Brilliant!

 

[Ian_Edwards]

I'm disassembling internal furniture to access the stuff I really want to replace in this case a matrix heater. The heater was installed before the furniture was fitted, and the problematic screw heads are more or less inaccessible without a major tear down.
A multitool was the obvious first choice, but the Bosch carbide blade cut 3 screws before losing all it's teeth.
If I can cut the screws and remove the panel, preferably without making too much of a mess of it, I can remove the cut screws using a diamond masonry drill. The type that is a bit of thick walled tube with diamond crystals on the tip. I will then use a fostner bit to cut a hole and glue in a bit of dowel.
If I have to insert a strip of cherry to make good any gap I create as part of the process then that won't be problem.
I don't like the idea of taking an angle grinder to a piece of cherry furniture.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Are those diamond cutting blades I posted in #2 of any use.

Also post a pic so we can see what you are trying to do

 

[DinghyMan]

Milwaukee Diablo, with carbide teeth, claim to cut stainless, Bosch Expert MetalMax also claim to cut stainless, Ezarc also claim but are half the price so would suspect they dont work, or at least not for long

I've just ordered some of the Bosch ones for a job but not starting it for a week or so so cant say whether they actually work - will be using them on slow with lubricant as well, I would suspect most peoples giving feedback issues cutting stainless is because they are going full belt with no lubricant

 

[ctva]

Milwaukee Diablo, with carbide teeth, claim to cut stainless, Bosch Expert MetalMax also claim to cut stainless, Ezarc also claim but are half the price so would suspect they dont work, or at least not for long

I've just ordered some of the Bosch ones for a job but not starting it for a week or so so cant say whether they actually work - will be using them on slow with lubricant as well, I would suspect most peoples giving feedback issues cutting stainless is because they are going full belt with no lubricant

How did this go as I am interested in similar issues?

 

[ashtead]

Why not buy a blade sharpening attachment for your drill so you run the blunt multi tool blade through this?

 

[Refueler]

Why not buy a blade sharpening attachment for your drill so you run the blunt multi tool blade through this?

"but the Bosch carbide blade cut 3 screws before losing all it's teeth."

 

[Roberto]

Rough calc: a Fein Multitool slowest speed is indicated at 11k oscillations/minute, oscillations given at 2x1.6°, if a blade is 80mm long its tip will oscillate about 4.5mm which is around 50m/min, which seems very, very high to cut stainless steel (about 2x 3x). Maybe carbide blades ?
Could any serious soul double check if it's nonsensical

 

[ashtead]

The warranty is from the manufacture to the end user so there is a relationship. The dealer may do the work but they are not the warranty provider

"but the Bosch carbide blade cut 3 screws before losing all it's teeth."

The device I saw attached to a drill bit Chuck and recut new teeth -I’ve never used one so welcome thoughts but the idea seemed to be to give a way of recutting to avoid continue replacement. The question is which blade to buy if not Bosch but perhaps all blades do this though?

 

[penberth3]

The device I saw attached to a drill bit Chuck and recut new teeth -I’ve never used one so welcome thoughts but the idea seemed to be to give a way of recutting to avoid continue replacement. The question is which blade to buy if not Bosch but perhaps all blades do this though?

You're missing something here. Lost carbide teeth or grit can't be replaced by re-cutting, they've gone! New teeth cut on the remaining steel blade won't be hardened, so that won't work either. These blades are a disposable item.

 

[vyv_cox]

Stainless steel is no more difficult to cut than mild steel. The work hardening that takes place when drilling this metal with a blunt drill does not happen with a hacksaw. When fitting my Aquadrive I cut my 1 inch 316 shaft several times with a hacksaw with minimal effort.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

Like Vyv, I've cut prop shafts with a hacksaw, the last one 1 1/2", when I fitted a python drive.
But I'm under the impression that SS self tapping screws are work harden during manufacture, because they are stamped, ie mechanically deformed. They don't look like they have been cast or machined. And both these processes would make them very expensive to produce.
The problem I'm trying to solve is cutting SS self tapping screws.
The boat is 160 miles away, about 4hr drive. I'm hoping to get a week working on the boat in November. The intent is to have all the stuff I need bought and organised, before I drive down, so waste the least amount of time.

 

[vyv_cox]

Like Vyv, I've cut prop shafts with a hacksaw, the last one 1 1/2", when I fitted a python drive.
But I'm under the impression that SS self tapping screws are work harden during manufacture, because they are stamped, ie mechanically deformed. They don't look like they have been cast or machined. And both these processes would make them very expensive to produce.
The problem I'm trying to solve is cutting SS self tapping screws.
The boat is 160 miles away, about 4hr drive. I'm hoping to get a week working on the boat in November. The intent is to have all the stuff I need bought and organised, before I drive down, so waste the least amount of time.

Yes you are correct, self tappers are stamped on manufacture for strengthening. The shanks are hard but the heads are pretty soft.