Is This a Shoddy Repair Job???

There another one that goes , why pay someone to bodge a job when you can do it yourself for free

Is the OP or PO skilled at stick welding? Probably not. And learning the skill and aquiring the equipment is a long time and distance from free.

Many of do a lot of our own work, for many reasons, but I bet all of us will farm out at least one skill we haven't got. For example, I don't do machine sewing (hand sewing, yes I'm a fair hand at that).
 
Is the OP or PO skilled at stick welding? Probably not. And learning the skill and aquiring the equipment is a long time and distance from free.

Many of do a lot of our own work, for many reasons, but I bet all of us will farm out at least one skill we haven't got. For example, I don't do machine sewing (hand sewing, yes I'm a fair hand at that).
To be honest and no disrespect to the OP when it comes to boats , not sure he know much.
With me it's electronic, don't ask me to look at PCB .
My reply tho was to another posting , making a bit of light out of it .
Although there a lot of truth in it .
 
Well let me first apologize for taking a short holiday and not notifying everyone.
Be careful not to juggle too many things or you drop them all!

Anyway, a lot has happened in the mean time so I'll just dive right in.

Cost of truck, rig preparation and lifts both ends came to around £2300. Best decision I ever made. Boat was back quickly and I could work on it at my own pace without pressure and avoid any unnecessary professional help. To my mind much more important to get the boat to where you want to keep it as soon as you can - then you have it under your control.

Complete engine checkover and changing that dodgy seal (with one made by Radice rather than Volvo) is maybe a day's work by yourself. There is nothing difficult about it and again best you learn at leisure. You are going to have the boat for a long time. Get to know it and up your skills at the same time.

In the end I have to agree. Good arguments on both sides. But considering I am a novice and the boat is in some ways unknown condition. And I just want her home! Also I didn't mention but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty and in fact will happily dig into every nook and cranny on this boat.

So I've booked a truck for transport, a company highly recommended by vendor, and specialized experience in boat delivery. Not cheap. It will be 975 Euros + cranes on both ends. I negotiated the shop keep the mast down for transport, save the time, and trade me for a crane job. They took it. So good deal.

On the receiving end I found a decent deal on a marina close to home where I know the spot. And it's well sheltered from the prevailing SW winds. Marina entrance faces East with slots facing East. So I should be able to motor directly in upwind which I'm guessing may make berthing easier.

So I've got two weeks on land booked before she goes in the water, to get the engine service and prop shaft seal done in my own time, and to go over hear with a fine tooth comb which I'm really looking forward to!

Now I'm just waiting on a date from the trucking company who may be able to get me in this week. Vendor is a cool guy. He's actually been super helpful. And he's going to provide bubble wrap, and advise me on packing the mast. Nice. So I'll go down the evening before transport when I have a date and get the mast packed.

Very much looking forward :)

Also already made the final payment.

More on the mast support, and a few surprises below.

AFAIK, there is no anode in a VP D1-20. There isn't one in mine.

Well that's interesting. BTW, do you source your parts locally or is there a decent online vendor?
Volvo parts are notoriously expensive so if there's an 'Amazon' of boating it would be good to know ;-)

Extra confusing having 2 threads running on essentially the same topic. I agree now it is clearer as in my post on the other.

Yeah, good point. I'll put all responses here. It's easier :)

By seal change do you mean re packing a stuffing box or replacing a mechanical seal, lip or face?

I believe a replacement is in order. Anyway might as well since I've got her on land and since a failure in this little hunk of rubber leads to sinking. That's exactly the kind of thing I'm willing to pay for new parts for peace of mind :)

It's an old Volvo seal quite a primitive water lubricated grease packed seal and has probably just dried out and could get away with regressing but would be better replaced with a PSS or other type.

I think I'll go for the radice type which is very similar to stock but with the greasing and vent joints. Sounds pretty highly recommended. Now like the Volvo engine parts I'll have to find a supplier. Don't even know the prop shaft size so I guess I'll have to buy a tool to measure that to be sure.


Fantastic. Thanks a lot! I'll totally geek out on that engine series.
Actually really curious what the guts of a modern diesel looks like, the heat exchanger, etc.
Now that I think of it a good shop manual for the D1-20 would be really useful as well for part numbers, diagrams, ets.

That Vyv Cox site is also very helpful. Thanks again.


Well this definitely makes me feel better about my mast support job.
Geez, could have been worse! What a mess these guys had to work through. And surprising how far and wide signs of damage spread.

Also encouraging that the Westerly 'box' at the bottom of the mast support is obviously far stronger than the thin wooden beam theirs was sitting on.

More on that later...
 
Be careful NOT to let Marina know he's doing the work ...... most have restrictions on the berth contract to prevent outside workers coming in ...

Part of my busy work since I've been offline was shopping marinas and 3/3 all have new rules/regs on work done in marina. Though they say it's new environmental rules. EG one won't allow any hull work, 2 will, but must have whole boat covered with a tarp to stop wind blow away, and a special 'double' catch bag vacuum system is now required on sanders.

And other disposal of waste product rules leading to more places to put things, EG used oil filters go here, used oil goes there, anti fouling waste goes there, etc, and have led to a new 90 Euro tax on every pullout and wash. I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. But yeah, they are getting stricter, which in theory I don't actually mind. As it's not really that much money in the big scheme of things, for the amount of total difference it will make. And since I'm enjoying the nature yeah I'll pay a hundred bucks once in a while to help keep it clean. Why not.

That's kind of a detour but I thought worth sharing. Anyway...

If this boat has sat for two years - and it has?
A jolly good canal trip would be an excellent engine service in itself I would think . Show up any weaknesses in a land of diesel not a sea of emptiness.
Myself I would probably just change the oil and impeller and if the diesel in the filte bowl looks clean after a 20 minute pre departure test , just get going !

Edit : to do a full service and inspection on my last diesel , with so-so access , always took 3 hours not the ‘ half hour ‘ I fondly envisioned ..

( but that would include checking all the water hoses, chafe points, water inlet, belts , leccy terminals , clamps , vents, mounts, methodically blah blah …add in 3 genuine yanmar filters and impeller and good mineral oil and chargeable costs start to run away quite quickly towards 500 local currency .

Well I skipped the motor home. But a good engine shake down after the full service is done sounds like a good idea. Best done while in a good spot for it, rather than out as sea as you point out. Good point.

And I'll probably get carried away as well doing all the 'extras'. If it can be serviced, I think I will. I mean I'm not going to pull the head or anything, but the heat exchanger will be at least inspected to whatever degree that's normal.

The fact that more threads are visible now than previously supports my concern that the newer parts may have been made of a thinner material then the original I would also have concerns as to what the leatherette sleeve on the strut is hiding. Why did the contractors not refinish and paint the underlying boat structure before seating the new components

Yeah, I know right? Now I'll have to paint around it to make it look half decent.
Probably just saving time and laziness. Surveyor says they could have spent as much time cleaning up. LOL that may actually be true.

Surveyor is experienced shop manager for decades. He's good. So I'll trust its a good repair though the parts may actually be thinner as you suggest. I will definitely pay my dues cleaning it up.

Is the OP or PO skilled at stick welding? Probably not. And learning the skill and aquiring the equipment is a long time and distance from free.

Many of do a lot of our own work, for many reasons, but I bet all of us will farm out at least one skill we haven't got. For example, I don't do machine sewing (hand sewing, yes I'm a fair hand at that).

Actually I did take a course in Oxygen Acetylene and Arc welding.
Never used it. Just thought it was cool to know. Really enjoyed the course actually.
Still as you point out, I would have farmed out this job for sure ;-)

Some Westerlys like my Fulmar have a timber compression post.

Wow. That's surprising. How's it holding up?
Considering Westerly standards for quality I imagine they wouldn't have done it if it didn't work.
Still surprising. Puts my repair in a little perspective. It probably is actually OK.

And of course ‘Never let perfection get in the way of a good job,’
Easy to get carried away working on ones own boat/house etc and never get anything done agonising over fine details.

Yeah I like that quote a lot. Thanks.
Good to keep things in perspective ;-)

---

OK, well sorry I couldn't respond to everyone's post but I did read and appreciate everyone's responses.

For now I'm all typed out.
So I guess I'm off to the store for some popcorn and soda to watch those Volvo engine videos :)

Thanks again everyone!
 
I think that is very wise , land delivery puts you in charge in a boatyard of your choosing, where you are the only boss for the boat .

I hope you are happy with what you ended up paying in total for the boat .

And I wish you best of luck
Once the boat has arrived you can do all the jobs you wish , at your own pace and get your own quotes for any extra help , without pressure of time
 
For parts the 2 main sources in UK are Keyparts keypart.com who do either Volvo parts at a discount or alternatives at lower prices. I use them and genuine Volvo parts. The difference in price ro my mind is really not worth it for the normal once a tear service, but both my engines have been bought new and a Volvo service record is good when selling the boat. the other is parts4engines.com originally a Perkins specialist but now expanded to Volvo which are Perkins based. Mostly alternative parts.

Check the shaft size carefully as Westerly used both imperial (1") or metric (25mm). Important you get it exactly right as the 0.4mm difference is critical. I expect you will find specialist parts suppliers in Holland as it is a big, well established market for boats and boat bits.
 
Agree joining the westerly owners association is a good move as a good source of info, but also other not immediatelyobvious benefits. Tbh I did wonder whether the annual payment was worth it at one point but a recent insurance claim for a snagged anchor and chain had the insurer literally gushing about how reliable WOA members were. It turns out WOA members get a protected no claims discount too! Navigator and General. Lovely people. If that was not enough I got a discount at a couple of northern French coast marinas for being a member.
 
Check the shaft size carefully as Westerly used both imperial (1") or metric (25mm). Important you get it exactly right as the 0.4mm difference is critical. I expect you will find specialist parts suppliers in Holland as it is a big, well established market for boats and boat bits.
Almost guarantee that a Storm will have a 25mm shaft. My Fulmar built in 1980 has a 25mm shaft.
 
Yes, I think so as well, but important o check. Westerly bought a batch of shafts from Volvo in the early 80s, but before that they used Imperial, and after that as well. A 1" seal on a 25mm shaft will leak and the other way round you won't be able to turn the shaft!
 
Warning, mega post ahead!

Well so much has happened and so suddenly I almost don't know where to start.
I don't know if I bought a boat or signed up to be the soap opera LOL.
Ok here goes.

So Tuesday morning I get a call from the shipping company saying they can pick up and deliver the boat the next afternoon.
Now in fairness I was expecting a call sometime. And hoping for an ASAP delivery. But suddenly I was thrown into rushed drama mode as the mast had to be packed and the crane scheduled, and I had to get there to the boat which is four hours away, and I had two appointments to reschedule. Lovely. Ok keep calm, carry on...

I told them fine, but I would have to check with the vendor if a crane could be ready, and if he could provide materials to pack the mast both of which would be required to be ready in time by Wednesday afternoon when the truck planned to arrive in Zealand. Soon the shop manager responded that the crane would be ready. And I packed for Zealand. Then I get an email from shipping company that crane guy in destination marina will be going on holiday the next day at 3PM, and will be gone for two weeks. Trucking company schedules driver to arrive at 9AM next day. So no worries I had to get packed, jump a metro, two trains, and a bus, a 1KM walk (on both ends), and pack the mast before sundown, which I've never done before. Fine.

I get there and the shop renigs on the deal to crane the boat instead of re-installing the mast (which both sides had agreed previously was a fair trade) and basically blackmails me saying they won't release the boat unless I pay up for the crane next day. Vendor who brokered the deal is unavailable so I pay up. Nice.

Vendor who isn't available also doesn't provide promised packing materials so I'm spending precious daylight time walking to stores to find bubble wrap for the mast. Keep calm, carry on...

By the time I get bubble wrap, get a key from the marina, find the mast and start packing, sun is going down.
I get half way through the job and it's dark.
And I found a broken, cracked spreader. OK, fine. Keep calm, carry on...

So I crash in the boat pretty much exhausted, job not done. Fine.
Wake early and start packing the mast again at 6 AM.
It took longer than expected and there was unexpected work. I didn't know all the electronics need to come off.

So the transport truck arrives. I think I'm about finished and he tells me I'm only getting started.
I thought he would pack the beam. Nope. That's on me.
I didn't think at all about the navigation equipment pole aft. Rookie move. So that had to come down.

I strapped the boom down to the deck, and the dodger had to come down, and all the loose rigging turnbuckles and stuff had to be packed to not wiggle loose and leave a trail of expensive stainless steel parts on the freeway.

And the interior which was a complete mess had to be sorted to not break anything in transit.
Probably 3x the work I expected. Fine.
I was pretty much exhausted and we got out of there after noon. Pushing it to meet the crane guy by well enough before 3PM.
The driver was cool and offered me a ride to destination which saved me two hours. So I could be there for unloading. Nice.

I barely remember unloading the boat.
Passed out in it for two hours then found a bus home.
Took a shower. Passed out again. Turns out I had some kind of bug and was sick for two days.

Now I'm fine. Spent my first day on the boat in the yard near my home.
Life couldn't be better :cool:

BTW if anyone asks, boat work is a lot of work!


For parts the 2 main sources in UK are Keyparts keypart.com who do either Volvo parts at a discount or alternatives at lower prices. I use them and genuine Volvo parts. The difference in price ro my mind is really not worth it for the normal once a tear service, but both my engines have been bought new and a Volvo service record is good when selling the boat. the other is parts4engines.com originally a Perkins specialist but now expanded to Volvo which are Perkins based. Mostly alternative parts.

Check the shaft size carefully as Westerly used both imperial (1") or metric (25mm). Important you get it exactly right as the 0.4mm difference is critical. I expect you will find specialist parts suppliers in Holland as it is a big, well established market for boats and boat bits.

So today I stopped by the hardware store then finally made it back to the boat. Bought a thickness measuring slide rule tool and it looks like 25 mm. Actually it was almost an inch. Then I cleaned some light corrosion off with a scrubby pad and its 25mm. I'll be ordering the parts tonight.

Agree joining the westerly owners association is a good move as a good source of info, but also other not immediatelyobvious benefits. Tbh I did wonder whether the annual payment was worth it at one point but a recent insurance claim for a snagged anchor and chain had the insurer literally gushing about how reliable WOA members were. It turns out WOA members get a protected no claims discount too! Navigator and General. Lovely people. If that was not enough I got a discount at a couple of northern French coast marinas for being a member.

In all the drama above I actually had a brief chat with a guy who was also working on a Westerly. A Centaur 27. His engine blew in a horrible way. Wouldn't start and turning over the engine caused water to get pulled into the cylinders that should have cooled then went out the exhaust. Anyway, water doesn't compress so he threw a rod, and broke his top end (valve push rods I think?) I never would have imagined such a scenario. Anyway a Westerly club guy who rebuilds old engines came out to help him pull the old engine. Nice! He sings praises about that club. Says they're a bunch of helpful friendly people who are happy to help and totally psyched up with love for Westerly boats. Sounds awesome. I need to get more active over there! Now that I'm just catching my footing, finally with the boat at home...

Almost guarantee that a Storm will have a 25mm shaft. My Fulmar built in 1980 has a 25mm shaft.

Yep. Right again. Good thing I measured though to make sure. Would hate to do this job twice. Crane costs and all.

If we are not forgotten?

Definitely not forgotten.
I'm just clearly trying to juggle too many things at once. Things that I have no idea about and I'm just jumping in anyway.
It's a big learning curve. And you folks have helped a lot!
Sorry again for such a late reply.
Now the boats home I can finally settle into a normal rhythm and start making some real progress on repairs.
And hopefully get her out sailing this summer ;-)
 
And hopefully get her out sailing this summer ;-)
Are you sure this summer. When I started working on Concerto, I thought it would take a couple of seasons to get her right. Ha,ha. I am 8 seasons in and nearly finished, just a couple of more jobs to do or finish, plus one I have been putting off since I bought her as it is major and was recommended by the surveyor but not urgent.
 
Well done. Big job a ‘DIY’ move (as opposed to one handled - as most are - by cooperative boatyards at both ends). We did a similar thing with our boat last year - but there was a crew of 4 of us plus a handful of helpful club members! (We didn’t bother wrapping the mast, mind you - they’re beefy old things and we just lashed it on top resting on a few bits of old carpet!).

…That was in December and, no, we still haven’t been sailing yet!
 
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