Dead Yanmar

dgadee

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Just tried to start 3YM Yanmar (newish) but completely dead. No life from switch panel. I have checked battery and renewed battery connections and there is power going towards the engine. I have looked at connectors at panel and engine and these seem to be good (no corrosion).

I don't want to use a screwdriver on starter because we are ashore and not sure about whether stop button stops instantly.

Where should I be looking? Is there a fuse somewhere? That's all I can think of now.

Can I start/stop without causing problems?

PS - this is after wintering. Ran perfectly till lift out.
 
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rotrax

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Make up a fly lead from light cable with a female spade on one end and a crocodile clip to fit the battery + terminal the other.

Disconnect the spade terminal from the solenoid. Fit the crocodile clip to the battery + terminal.

Touch the spade terminal from the battery to the solenoid spade terminal, it should crank unless the starter is duff or the engine is siezed.

It is a good idea to have a similar long fly lead in the 'useful bits' box, just in case...............................
 

VicS

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Just tried to start 3YM Yanmar (newish) but completely dead. No life from switch panel. I have checked battery and renewed battery connections and there is power going towards the engine. I have looked at connectors at panel and engine and these seem to be good (no corrosion).
I don't want to use a screwdriver on starter because we are ashore and not sure about whether stop button stops instantly.
Where should I be looking? Is there a fuse somewhere? That's all I can think of now.
Can I start/stop without causing problems?
PS - this is after wintering. Ran perfectly till lift out.
There is a 3amp fuse in the panel but it is only in the supply to the warning lights, buzzer and tachometer
If it has blown or making bad contact in its holder the panel will appear dead because the warning lights wont come on but the preheat, start and stop functions should all operate.

( It is shown in the wiring diagram in your owners manual)

If not cranking when the key is turned to the start position check for a power supply on the red wire coming in from the wiring harness to terminal 30 on the ignition switch.

Disconnect , clean and remake suspect connections. They must actually be good. Just looking good is not good enough.

Did you check the battery negative connections as well as the positives?
 

dgadee

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Replaced battery terminals. Found panel fuse - looks good. Battery fine.

I will investigate engine connections in morning.
 

VicS

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Is there a battery iso some where . Have you used a volt meter. To test for voltage .
A modern digital meter takes so little current that it can give a normal voltage reading through bad connections ...... guaranteed to make a fool of you sooner or than later.

A test lamp ... ( 12 volt bulb on a couple of leads ) ........ can often be a better tool than a digital meter for this type of testing . ( A bulb and a meter in parallel is even better )
 

dgadee

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A modern digital meter takes so little current that it can give a normal voltage reading through bad connections ...... guaranteed to make a fool of you sooner or than later.

A test lamp ... ( 12 volt bulb on a couple of leads ) ........ can often be a better tool than a digital meter for this type of testing . ( A bulb and a meter in parallel is even better )
Who has those these days? Unless you think a LED one will do?
 

Seastoke

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A modern digital meter takes so little current that it can give a normal voltage reading through bad connections ...... guaranteed to make a fool of you sooner or than later.

A test lamp ... ( 12 volt bulb on a couple of leads ) ........ can often be a better tool than a digital meter for this type of testing . ( A bulb and a meter in parallel is even better )
Who said to use a digital , and a bulb will work on 10 volts
 

dansaskip

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A test lamp ... ( 12 volt bulb on a couple of leads ) ........ can often be a better tool than a digital meter for this type of testing

Who has those these days?

Well I certainly have - an essential bit of kit in my electrical bag of tricks, but I am old school. Quicker and simpler to use than a multimeter to see if a connection is live
 

Bilgediver

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Try starting with a Jump lead from battery negative to the alternator brackets . If engine starts then check the neutral/earth connection on the engine. undo it and make sure no hidden corrosion on the individual connections.
 

dgadee

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I've copped out. Getting the yard engine man to take a look. A sad day for someone who tries to do everything himself. But I am to launch in the morning.

Will report back.
 

dgadee

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Panel defunct. Needs replaced. 6 years old but in a very exposed location.

I would never have found that.

Hope not long to come from Athens.
 

dgadee

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He used a device to inject power into the wiring to the panel. Could start engine from there. Not sure what it was.
 

dgadee

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I have a query. In case the new panel takes time to arrive. On another boat I had to start with the screwdriver trick. The Yanmar has a stop button on the engine.

Could I launch and use the screwdriver/stop button as a temporary solution to get us afloat and anchored? Mate hates boat yards.

Looked at the manual but can't understand how the engine stop button (not the panel one) works.
 

VicS

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I have a query. In case the new panel takes time to arrive. On another boat I had to start with the screwdriver trick. The Yanmar has a stop button on the engine.

Could I launch and use the screwdriver/stop button as a temporary solution to get us afloat and anchored? Mate hates boat yards.

Looked at the manual but can't understand how the engine stop button (not the panel one) works.
It is on the stop solenoid and operates the solenoid manually when pressed

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