Compounding and polishing for dummies?

[nimbusgb]

nimbusgb,
I notice that the machine that you favour is dual action, most of the gurus that pronounce on this stuff recommend a straight sander polisher like the Silverline etc. and tend to denigrate dual action, though conceding that it may be less risky for a novice? What do you think?

Another question, the cheaper polishers like the Silverline tend to be about 3kg. while the medium price ones like the Dodo Juice etc seem to be only 1/2kg. lighter, is that going to make a lot of difference? I have a 250mm. angle grinder which I use mainly for cutting with a diamond blade, I guess it is a similar weight and I do not find it that comfortable to handle though the torque at high speed may contribute to that.

Dual action seems to be the way to go in car detailing and that is a very demanding ( and potentially expensive if cocked up ) market.

I had a friends clapped out MX5 to try things out on and within 15 minutes could get a cracking finish with the Dual Action and after an hours practice ( and a transformed MX5 bonnet, roof and drivers door ) I was confident enough to start on my Mercedes AMG. ( really must go and finish his odd MX5 one day! )

Previously I have used single action ( not the silverline ) type polishers on high performance composite sailplanes where finish is critical. Not for the feinthearted and certainly not for a beginner. I wish I'd had a DA then.

A 1/2 kilo is going to make a difference on a boat as none of the weight is on the bit being polished and your arms are carrying the tool and applying pressure. Best advice is a light bungy cord attached fairly high up ( topping lift ) and adjusted so that it will make the tool almost weightless.

As to so called 'experts' denigrating DA polishers. Same mental attitude as people who thought GPS was the work of the devil! Trouble is it's like camera phones ........ the 'experts' are becoming less relevant!

 

[Bobc]

I have a Silverline polisher and it's fine.

Last year I used the medium 3M Perfect-it polish & wax combined with a white wool mop and it did a good job (my hull was quite dull).

I then applied a layer of 3M boat wax with a yellow mop, and the finish was pretty impressive, although I think it would have been ok without this, just not quite as shiny and slippery.

 

[Quandary]

My thanks to everyone who responded.

What I have gleaned is that I should either just carry on doing it by hand or I could purchase a dual action polisher, trying to ensure that it is one with provision if possible for hook and loop pads, after that I should be okay using the less fierce Farecla or 3M products to lightly compound and then polish with the machine probably with wool pads. To wax I can apply by hand or use the machine then shine with a clean wool pad used lightly. The advice to wash well before starting is noted. Because my berth is in a sheltered location without waves washing the hull I do not have visible waterline staining so should get away without the need to use the oxalic acid.

 

[pagoda]

My thanks to everyone who responded.

What I have gleaned is that I should either just carry on doing it by hand or I could purchase a dual action polisher, trying to ensure that it is one with provision if possible for hook and loop pads, after that I should be okay using the less fierce Farecla or 3M products to lightly compound and then polish with the machine probably with wool pads. To wax I can apply by hand or use the machine then shine with a clean wool pad used lightly. The advice to wash well before starting is noted. Because my berth is in a sheltered location without waves washing the hull I do not have visible waterline staining so should get away without the need to use the oxalic acid.

Using an electric polisher can be less hard work...IF you suspend it from your toerail / guardwires with a bungy cord. That removes a lot of the weight and pain. Holding up a machine is pretty much as hard work as doing it all by hand as far as I recall!

 

[pcatterall]

My thanks to everyone who responded.

What I have gleaned is that I should either just carry on doing it by hand or I could purchase a dual action polisher, trying to ensure that it is one with provision if possible for hook and loop pads, after that I should be okay using the less fierce Farecla or 3M products to lightly compound and then polish with the machine probably with wool pads. To wax I can apply by hand or use the machine then shine with a clean wool pad used lightly. The advice to wash well before starting is noted. Because my berth is in a sheltered location without waves washing the hull I do not have visible waterline staining so should get away without the need to use the oxalic acid.

'
I would opt for doing that as well. Probably though, as I we are in Spain and I don't want to carry a polisher on the boat I will give it a 'hand job' again! This time I may try 600 0r 1000 grit wet and dry as to get good results with T cut I am having to work hard and usually find I need 2 goes with the Tcut.

 

[Corribee72]

I have been sprucing up my boat over the winter and having just bought her this year, was sure that I would have to paint her but no, 1200 grit wet sanding paper and 3M compound and wax combined did the job brilliantly and she is 45 years old having heavy oxidisation. I can live with the odd mark here and there, shows character and to be expected really, I'm the same age and have far more lines and wrinkles than she does.

 

[GDPR150987]

I have a Megs MT 320 DA for the cars and a Dewalt rotary for the boat. There is no way I would want to use a DA on a 30ft boat! The vibration from the Megs MT 320 DA would tire me out after a while. Also the rotary can run larger pads or wool heads. Your call but using a rotary can improve the finish and speed the job up.

Forgot to add, have a look for Marine Relections (i think) posts. Hes a guru on this subject and very helpfull.

 

[wully1]

Save yourself the hassle and call Leon at West Coast Shine...