Combination battery terminals

[stranded]

Need to fit a dc to dc charger from my starter battery. Battery has car type battery posts, which are great for the alternator feed but I need M8 or 10 studs for an MBRF terminal fuseblock for the charger. I have found a terminal that converts the battery post to a stud, but not a combined crimped terminal plus stud for eyelet connections. Is there such a thing or do I just need to reterminate the alternator cable to fit the stud? Apologies if my terminology is awry.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I have battery terminals with studs for ring connections and I just have ring connector on all the wire that need to be connected to the battery

 

[Tradewinds]

This?
Note different fitting for Neg & Pos.
Negative Battery Terminal Clamp - Vertical M8 Stud & Nut

 

[rogerthebodger]

This?
Note different fitting for Neg & Pos.
Negative Battery Terminal Clamp - Vertical M8 Stud & Nut

It looks to me that both positive and negative can be purchased with a M8 or am M10 stud

I purchased a set and the positive had a M10 and the negative was M8

Th link says they are supplied separately

 

[stranded]

This?
Note different fitting for Neg & Pos.
Negative Battery Terminal Clamp - Vertical M8 Stud & Nut

Nearly - that’s what I’ve found - but am looking for a version that in addition has a screw clamp for me to connect the starter cable

 

[Tradewinds]

I'll wait & see if Paul Rainbow comes up with the goods.

 

[stranded]

I'll wait & see if Paul Rainbow comes up with the goods.

 

[Stork_III]

Any use?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyancld-Terminals-Positive-Motorcycle-Connectors/dp/B091J24DXX

 

[Tranona]

I used the terminals in post#3 and made up the cables with the correct lugs to suit the studs. You can see them on my house bank, but my start battery has M6 set screws so again I made the cables to suit. B2B not connected in this photo but has 6mm lugs on the cables like the main one to the starter.

 

[Neeves]

There was me believing the appropriate way was to have minimal connections to the battery poles (whatever the sort) and use bus bars for any other connections. You can then mix and match the connectors on the bus bar. I recall this was a recommendation from an American marine organ, forget which and repeated by PR. I believe having a stack of connectors on a pole or stud is frowned upon - but not sure why (possibly because having a number of connector eyes gives potential for poor contacts).

PR will surely be along soon.

Jonathan

 

[PaulRainbow]

There was me believing the appropriate way was to have minimal connections to the battery poles (whatever the sort) and use bus bars for any other connections. You can then mix and match the connectors on the bus bar. I recall this was a recommendation from an American marine organ, forget which and repeated by PR. I believe having a stack of connectors on a pole or stud is frowned upon - but not sure why (possibly because having a number of connector eyes gives potential for poor contacts).

PR will surely be along soon.

Jonathan

That's my philosophy too Jonathan, single cable from the battery to a busbar is the best way.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Need to fit a dc to dc charger from my starter battery. Battery has car type battery posts, which are great for the alternator feed but I need M8 or 10 studs for an MBRF terminal fuseblock for the charger. I have found a terminal that converts the battery post to a stud, but not a combined crimped terminal plus stud for eyelet connections. Is there such a thing or do I just need to reterminate the alternator cable to fit the stud? Apologies if my terminology is awry.

In an ideal World, fit one of the clamps in post #3, make a cable to go from that to a busbar, then connect all positive cables to the busbar.

Next best, if the length of the alternator permits, cut the cable and crimp lugs onto both ends, connect the lugs to a busbar, then add any other positives.

Lastly, fit the terminal from post #3 and crimp a lug on the the alternator cable. This is acceptable as long as those are the only two cables on the post, it's not good to have so many cables connected to the battery terminals that they look like hedgehogs

 

[rogerthebodger]

There was me believing the appropriate way was to have minimal connections to the battery poles (whatever the sort) and use bus bars for any other connections. You can then mix and match the connectors on the bus bar. I recall this was a recommendation from an American marine organ, forget which and repeated by PR. I believe having a stack of connectors on a pole or stud is frowned upon - but not sure why (possibly because having a number of connector eyes gives potential for poor contacts).

PR will surely be along soon.

Jonathan

I generally have on connector to the battery except when my domestic battery bank that consists of 12 105 Ah batteries in parallel.

The main positive from the set then has a fuse in series with the battery bank and a hall effect current sensor to measure. current in and out of the bank

If you have multi wiring to either positive and negative makes this more complicated

After the fuse and or current sensor I then have bus bars for multi connectors

 

[stranded]

OK - noted re. bus bars and will do.

But for no better reason than the current setup has worked without a hitch for 16 years and I am superstitious, I would prefer not to introduce additional connections into my starter circuit. I will however have spare room in the battery box and a spare output from my Sterling ProSplitR 3 way once I remove the agm service battery output. Would there be any harm (apart from to my pocket) adding in an additional starter size AGM battery as a 3rd bank purely to act as the donor for the dc to dc charger, but also as an emergency spare starter battery should the main one fail? All using a bus of course.

 

[B27]

Sometimes busbars are just extra unfused live metal for no gain, particularly if there is nowhere sensible to put a bus bar close to the battery.
I have two wires on mine, one of which goes to the start switch, the other goes to a big fuse and then to a bus bar.

Too many connections direct to the battery does lead to making it harder to remove/change the battery.

 

[Tranona]

Seems to me you are overcomplicating this. All you are doing is adding the DC to DC to the starter battery with (probably) 16mm cable. Just make up your cables with M8 lugs like this
12voltplanet.co.uk/copper-tube-terminal-16mm-max-cable.html +ve through a fuse to the charger and -ve direct to charger. Then replace the existing terminals on the cables to the engine with 8mm lugs appropriate to the size of your existing cables. You can see similar set up in my photo towards the top on the house bank where both the heavy cable and a lighter 16mm to the shunt have M8 lugs on them.

 

[PaulRainbow]

OK - noted re. bus bars and will do.

But for no better reason than the current setup has worked without a hitch for 16 years and I am superstitious, I would prefer not to introduce additional connections into my starter circuit. I will however have spare room in the battery box and a spare output from my Sterling ProSplitR 3 way once I remove the agm service battery output. Would there be any harm (apart from to my pocket) adding in an additional starter size AGM battery as a 3rd bank purely to act as the donor for the dc to dc charger, but also as an emergency spare starter battery should the main one fail? All using a bus of course.

I wouldn't add a spare starter battery. Might not hurt to add an additional domestic one. For emergency starting i'd fit an isolator between the load side of the engine isolator and the load side of the domestic isolator.

 

[PaulRainbow]

I used the terminals in post#3 and made up the cables with the correct lugs to suit the studs. You can see them on my house bank, but my start battery has M6 set screws so again I made the cables to suit. B2B not connected in this photo but has 6mm lugs on the cables like the main one to the starter.

No negative connection between the engine and domestic batteries ? Or work in progress ?

 

[Tranona]

Work in progress. Just temporary at that point to get the engine running so that I could demonstrate it to potential buyers. Negatives go to a bus bar. I used that photo because it illustrated what I think the OP needed to know about how to use the stud terminals.

Must get some better photos of the now complete set up which I did when the engine was out waiting for the new one.

 

[stranded]

Thank you all - just ordered all the bits so will crack on - once the temperature has increased a few degrees!