Bo****ks- engineering help wanted

If you really do have to use a screw extractor get a parallel set. You drill a hole with the supplied bit and tap in the extractor, slip on the nut and turn. Ridgid and Snapon do them and yes they are expensive.
 
1st thing saw a screwdriver slot,( lubricate) then work backward forward until lubrication makes it easy,
With a decent pair of Mole grips. drop of diesel on threads. try and screw the bolt IN, saw of protruding bit in the fork continue saw off again keep repeating unit all is out. last bit with screwdriver.

,
 
1st thing saw a screwdriver slot,( lubricate) then work backward forward until lubrication makes it easy,
As you have plenty sticking out file two flats parallel and use an adjustable spanner. Heat it and use penetrating oil.


Is it me? I thought the bolt was below the surface and thread bound enough to snap the bolt head off?
it has broken off below the surface so I cant get a grip on the top of it-
Gripping the threaded section in the jaws of the ram might be possible but the bolt is well and truly tight in there...........
 
No, I can't read, and only looked at the first picture and thought one of them was the remaining bit. You could still file flats on the threaded bit between the jaws for a suitable spanner. You would at least be able to work it back and forth to free it up for an easy-out to do the rest if you couldn't undo it far enough for the threaded end to come out.
 
No, I can't read, and only looked at the first picture and thought one of them was the remaining bit. You could still file flats on the threaded bit between the jaws for a suitable spanner. You would at least be able to work it back and forth to free it up for an easy-out to do the rest if you couldn't undo it far enough for the threaded end to come out.

As it is still fitted I expect the gap is in use?
Drilling is the only option, I wouldn't even consider an extractor.
 
Top