Brass Screw Heads on Raw Water Pump

I trained as an woodwind instrument repairman and often had the issue with stuck small brass machine screws, one solution was to file two sides parallel to fit a good sharp sided open spanner, this was then used to turn the screw out
 
If you resort to removing the pump:

Cut down the appropriately sized spanner, that will give you the ability to rotate more than 1/8th of a turn and it makes it easier. First crack the bolt with the full sized spanner then you don't need much effort to rotate the shortened spanner.

I replaced the brass bolts on the face plate with stainless Allan keyed, recessed headed, identically threaded bolts. They are tiny (as are the brass ones) and I bought extra :(

Jonathan
 
If they snap off or you have to cut the remnants of head off then you can try to get them out with grips as previously said. If that doesn't work them file them flat, replace the faceplate with the few screws that are still intact, and use the faceplate holes as a guide to drill new holes and then tap them. Saves the problem of getting the drill central and it wandering around. I've seen people struggling this way when they've got a perfect guide sat on the floor to the side of them. The faceplate.
 
Daverw said:
I trained as an woodwind instrument repairman and often had the issue with stuck small brass machine screws, one solution was to file two sides parallel to fit a good sharp sided open spanner, this was then used to turn the screw out
Click to expand...
I like this one.

Next stage could be to try filing off the whole head and sliding the cover plate off.

Be a right pain no doubt but would leave a longer stub (thickness of head plus cover plate) to go at with pliers etc.
 
A bit late to the party but, assuming they're slotted heads, could you cut a new slot at right angles to the damaged one? A bit of heat on the pump may help, too.

My experience of small screw extractors is that they go in just fine, but then snap when you put a bit of pressure on, leaving you worse than before.
 
With a screwdriver it is difficult to apply sufficient pressure and torque at the same time. I have found that using a ratchet wrench (1/4 or 3/8) with a 1/4 hex bit adapter allows you to concentrate on maximum pressure while easily applying a controlled torque. This often works with seemingly impossible screws.
 
greeny said:
If they snap off or you have to cut the remnants of head off then you can try to get them out with grips as previously said. If that doesn't work them file them flat, replace the faceplate with the few screws that are still intact, and use the faceplate holes as a guide to drill new holes and then tap them. Saves the problem of getting the drill central and it wandering around. I've seen people struggling this way when they've got a perfect guide sat on the floor to the side of them. The faceplate.
Click to expand...

Thanks Greeny, that’s pretty well my fallback option 👍
 
Thanks Stemar (#26) and andsarkit (#27), two ideas I hadn’t thought of. I’ll look next time I’m aboard but I’m not sure there’s enough head left to cut a new slot but if all else fails, I’ll try before cutting the heads off - nothing to lose at that point.

Thanks to all for some really useful contributions. I hope to be aboard again next week so I’ll report back 👍.
 
Goldie said:
Thanks Stemar (#26) and andsarkit (#27), two ideas I hadn’t thought of. I’ll look next time I’m aboard but I’m not sure there’s enough head left to cut a new slot but if all else fails, I’ll try before cutting the heads off - nothing to lose at that point.

Thanks to all for some really useful contributions. I hope to be aboard again next week so I’ll report back 👍.
Click to expand...
You could try a different technique on each screw, and let us know what worked and what didn't! :D
 
penberth3 said:
Agreed. Using a screw extractor on M4 you've got about 2mm diameter of hard brittle steel. I wouldn't even try. On the positive side brass is easy to drill.
Click to expand...
Im not keen on screw extractors, they can tighten up the thread the more pressure you add and if they snap off your problem has got 100 times worse because you cant drill them out.
 
I'm not sure about doing it on a speedseal but I have thought about replacing my screws with studs and thumb nuts.
 
Metalicmike said:
Im not keen on screw extractors, they can tighten up the thread the more pressure you add and if they snap off your problem has got 100 times worse because you cant drill them out.
Click to expand...
They can be drilled or milled out, same as taps, with solid carbide end mills or drills, not a cheap solution though, they can also be dissolved with alum or white vinegar and salt

The parallel type easy-outs are the best as they dont expand the stuck part, but are way more expensive
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

Boathook
Acrylic Windows
Replies
17
Views
576
alahol2
alahol2
S
Starlight 39 propeller removal advice
Replies
2
Views
174
Star stream
S

Share this page

Top