Advice on existing/replacing electronics etc

[steve yates]

When I bought my longbow, it came with a range of venerable instrumentation, and some recent bits. It's wiring seems ok, but a bit all over the place and difficult to identify. I want to rationalise it all and give me the info I need, drawing as little power as I need. In two stages, short term, so I can get off cruising next week, and longer term when I can do major changes over the winter. Currently I am thinking ditch the radar, navtex, echo sounder. Keep the gps and vhf. Add usb charging, (got some good links on a previous thread on this) add a compass and something like the old garmin gps 128 bethfran had outside, with a clipper depth unit or similar. I want something that keeps track of battery charge and tells me whats happening there. I want to add solar panels for charging, and I want to know if the engine is charging properly. I would like to be able to measure wind speed, but dont necessarily need a full wind unit showing tacking angles etc? Or are they more useful than I assume?

The core of the system is two 110a/hr batteries, connected to a selector switch, 1, 2 or both, and an isolator. There are three switchboards, two on the stb side.

[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8fc0b300][/URL]
and the wiring behind them where they but into the engine bay..
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8fc024bb][/URL]

and one on the port side, plus a switch for the wallis paraffin heater ( which is now installed but just makes clicking noises when switched on) .
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf2d][/URL] plus some kind of main fuse box in a locker on the stb side , no idea what this is for?

[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacfa4][/URL]

most kit is on the port fwd bulkhead,
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edaceed][/URL]
with some stuff on the stb fwd one. [url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8fc0b2f7][/URL]

There is some kind of vtronix box, not entirely sure what it does? I guess it deals with ariels?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf3a][/URL]

And there are dials by the engine for the alternator which dont seem to work, I suspect they may be from the previous volvo engine, not the new yanmar.
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf34][/URL]


If I bought one of the usb charging units, with a battery meter on it, where would you install it for ease of wiring?

Other power uses potentially are an electric cool box, and an electric bilge pump, tho neither seem to work yet, and the water pump for the pressurised water system. And of course the autopilot 3000 for the wheel steering, if i can get the parts and get it working.

There is also an electric anchor windlass, which seems to work fine. Though I have another question about this for another thread.

It seems to me that long term the switch box should maybe be all in one place, on that upper fwd stb bulkhead?? rather than blocking the quarter berth. or the prtside one?

Any advice on the usefulness or not of this stuff, and on slimming it all down to free up space, give me useful info and draw minimal current would be much appreciated.

My immediate concerns are knowing how deep the water is, and knowing my batteries are being charged properly and monitoring their use, and being able to constantly keep tablets/phones/laptop charged without access to shore power. Best way to do this quickly and easily?
And then long term, what do you recommend for a mostly new working electrics and nav system, without spending a fortune.

Oh, I am a cruiser, not a racer. Coastal at the moment but she will go offshore in the near future.

Thanks.

 

[steve yates]

Ok, this is the rest of the thread, for some reason each image was counted as two so I could'nt post them all in the one thread...

The kit comprises:
a seafarer echo sounder, which powers up ok but doesn't seem to give any kind of reliable reading, more like a disco of flashing lights. It has twin transducers between the heads and hanging locker. I am thinking I should replace this with a clipper depth thingy? Can I just replace one of the transducers with what comes with the clipper? are these things similar sizes? Do I need through hull for depth sounding nowadays? Or in the short term should this unit do the job?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacef0][/URL]

A racal decca radar unit, think the metal plate on the radar device on the mizzen mast said 2001 but not certain. Not working at the mo as the cable which connects to it cannot pass through the engine room bulkhead, nead to take a hole cutter to there and see if it works. However, it is big, bulky, probably draws a lot of power, and I don't know how to read it. Is this a good unit worth keeping or should I ditch it with a view to getting ais somehow in the future?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edaceef][/URL]

A racal decca navtex unit, doesn't seem to do anything. Does navtex still work? if so would it come in automatically if switched on or do you hunt for it? Is it worth having or not?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacef1][/URL]

A garmin gps 276c, which works fine and seems to talk to the vhf unit. It is always on if the batteries are selected, unless turned off on the unit (same with the vhf).I would keep this I guess, seems pretty good?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacef2][/URL]

I also have this, a chartplotter which I bought for bethfran and never installed,
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf32][/URL]
Is it any good? Worth setting up? what would I need to connect it to? an ariel or something?

On the stb bulkhead is the vhf, a navman7200, again, it seems pretty good and I would keep it. It sometimes comes through a tannoy at the pedestal, but not always, I'm guessing a loose wire?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf39][/URL]

Lighting looks old fashioned, does it need replaced or can you get led tubes to go straight in? how much saving in current draw is there?
[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf7b][/URL]

And there used to be a car stereo here with tape player, which rusted apparently, there seems to be cables and connections for it in the locker space, so I was thinking I could put a modern stereo unit in here with usb input (can that be used to charge tablets?) and aux in/ bluetooth for music, if the speakers in the cabin still work. Any reccomendations?

[url=http://derwentphotography.zenfolio.com/p161013577/e8edacf8e][/URL]

 

[James_Calvert]

The Seascribe needs paper to be useful. It's a fishfinder from the 70s. I'd ditch it. But I would never be without an echosounder. I think a NASA Target or somesuch might work with the existing transducer, unless it's knackered.

 

[GHA]

Busy thread, this one will run! Ignoring most of it, for the batteries one of the best bang for bucks you can get is a cheap panel meter connected *directly* to the battery terminals (with a fuse of course), something like this. Mounted in a little enclosure somewhere you can see it from most positions.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-V...y-Monitor-Panel-Meter-UK-seller-/320701838199

Really is high up there for usefulness on battery maintenance/diagnostics. And quite a simple couple of hour fit on the to do list.

Good luck with the rest, you gonna be a busy boy

 

[GHA]

Lighting looks old fashioned, does it need replaced or can you get led tubes to go straight in? how much saving in current draw is there?
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...replacing-electronics-etc#CsS8sWlsgXi7Z0aT.99

You can get replacement tubes but they're bit pricey, another option is cut everything out bar the switch and stick in couple of these - warm white would be nicer. Quick job with self adhesive ones and some wago connectors. LOADS of power saving with LEDs.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-PACK-L...GHT-STRIP-LAMP-LIGHT-COOL-WHITE-/262975688785

 

[GHA]

And there used to be a car stereo here with tape player, which rusted apparently, there seems to be cables and connections for it in the locker space, so I was thinking I could put a modern stereo unit in here with usb input (can that be used to charge tablets?) and aux in/ bluetooth for music, if the speakers in the cabin still work. Any reccomendations?
Read more at http://www.ybw.com/forums/showthrea...replacing-electronics-etc#CsS8sWlsgXi7Z0aT.99


For cheap , good quality sound & very low power draw these are great -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Charge...577692&hash=item2ca452b1a2:g:Ux4AAOSwmtJXa6X8

No bluetooth but aux in for mobile phone/ipod mini etc. Sounds great & such low power draw. Bluetooth speakers work well for watching movies on a laptop or podcasts etc in the cockpit.

 

[fredrussell]

Myself, I would hoik out nearly all off that gear, then simplify and modernise - with priority being given to simplifying. Keep the VHF and GPS, ditch/ebay the rest and Get a nasa Clipper depth with the proceeds. Buy a reel of stick on led strip to replace fluro tubes and replace fuse & switch panel with breaker type switch panel.

 

[aquaplane]

Start by making sure the alternator works, nothing else matters if there is no power.

Then double up the domestic bank to increase flexibility.

Forget the fridge until you have more amps than you know what to do with, then get a proper compressor one. Infact, do without everything unless you have power to run it. Nav lights, VHF, GPS and cabin lights are all you really need, the rest makes life easier.

A £100 battery monitor looks good and is handy, but reading voltages on a multimeter is cheaper and does the job, you have other stuff to spend your cash on for now.

The white square thing looks like a consumer unit for 240V. Could be wrong though.

 

[KevinT1]

The Racal Decca Radar and Navtex are older than 2001, probably late 80's at best. ( I worked there from 1990 to 1997 and they were out of production before my time )

 

[Tranona]

Most of that needs chucking, and probably worth starting from scratch.

Biggest bang for your buck is to ditch the 1-2-both, parallel the two current batteries for a dedicated house bank and add a small (50-60AH) starter battery for the engine. Have a isolator for each bank and fit a VSR to apportion the charge to each bank. with double the house capacity and doing away with the broken/useless electronics and fitting LEDs you are unlikely to have a serious capacity issue. However, fitting as simple battery monitor such as a NASA BM1 on the house bank will be useful.

Then decide the minimum instruments you require such as echo sounder, log, radio, GPS. If you use NASA you will have to use their transducer as it is not compatible with what you have. If you want to have electronic charting then the cheapest and most effective way is PC or tablet. Dedicated plotters are expensive and chart cards even more so. The only real benefits are better screens and the ability to interface with other instruments and autopilot, none of which you will have.

Personally I would consider rewiring the whole lot with a new panel as all that stuff added on over the years will be a nightmare to maintain, particularly as you don't need most of it.

 

[steve yates]

Thx all, that's a great call re the starting batter tranona, and the monitor gha, cheers. Hadn't thought of either of those.

 

[Yealm]

Agree about keeping the Garmin 276 - its a fantastic device - I lost mine overboard

 

[bitbaltic]

Myself, I would hoik out nearly all off that gear, then simplify and modernise - with priority being given to simplifying. Keep the VHF and GPS, ditch/ebay the rest and Get a nasa Clipper depth with the proceeds. Buy a reel of stick on led strip to replace fluro tubes and replace fuse & switch panel with breaker type switch panel.

+1 to keeping the garmin and vhf. Dunno about ebaying the rest of the instruments for any kind of profit- it is all basically worthless I reckon.

 

[Malish]

If you are going cruising next week I would probably leave well alone until you get back, just don't switch on the units you are not looking to use and make sure the ones you need are reliable. Once you go any further than this it is going to turn into a big job..

 

[WoodyP]

The RC435 chart plotter should be ok. If not the Service Centre in Wareham will check it out for £65 flat price unless it is knackered. Some error messages can be fixed by doing a reset, so try that first.

 

[steve yates]

The RC435 chart plotter should be ok. If not the Service Centre in Wareham will check it out for £65 flat price unless it is knackered. Some error messages can be fixed by doing a reset, so try that first.

thats useful to know woody, thx

 

[lpdsn]

If you are going cruising next week I would probably leave well alone until you get back, just don't switch on the units you are not looking to use and make sure the ones you need are reliable. Once you go any further than this it is going to turn into a big job..

+1.

OP: Plan out what you want to end up with and implement it bit by bit between sails otherwise you'll just be the owner of a project boat. Advice to bin the 1-2-both switch get's my backing.

Basic voltmeters will let you monitor the batteries until you've the time to fit a proper monitor. Easier to fit round ones with a hole cutter. e.g. https://www.banggood.com/12V-24V-Wa...Marine-Motorcycle-p-1053264.html?rmmds=search Fit a switch and fuse as already suggested.

I suspect a lot of tidying the wiring is necessary as you work your way through the boat.

 

[WoodyP]

I happen to know because I thought mine was broke, and didn't fancy buying a new one.

 

[Kelpie]

On the Wallas heater:
Check the fuel pickup filter, check the exhaust vent is open, then let it run for a good five minutes. They take a while to draw the fuel up and fire up. You should hear a change in the sound when it starts burning, but the click of the fuel pump will continue. Oh and make sure you let it shut down correctly- don't just kill the power.