19 hours motoring - change oil and filter anyway?

Would you change oil and filter after only 16 hours motoring?


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Crinan12

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I did a total of 16 hours motoring this season
Is the general opinion that you change the engine oil and filter anyway or is it reasonable to skip it until next season?
It's not exactly an expensive or time consuming job but I don't want to do it if it's not necessary.

It's a beta engine.

Thanks
 

RunAgroundHard

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Don’t know, so not voted. There was a time when I would have said no, but others say that oil used in low stressed, cool running engines, used for limited hours, degrades anyway. Are these others just repeating what they read on forums and hear when chatting at the pontoon, or is it a fact?

Gut feeling says no.
 

doug748

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I did a total of 16 hours motoring this season
Is the general opinion that you change the engine oil and filter anyway or is it reasonable to skip it until next season?
It's not exactly an expensive or time consuming job but I don't want to do it if it's not necessary.

It's a beta engine.

Thanks

My view is that it is a waste of time money and resources. Better do it though because when you flog the boat it is nice to say the engine has been looked after.
I might leave the filter .

.
 

neil_s

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Last season, I went through the same reasoning and did not change oil and filter. After reading wonkywinches posting, I changed my mind and did. Glad I did, seeing the colour of the oil that came out! I do try to give the motor a good run of about an hour every now and then, but primary reason to go sailing is - to go sailing.
 

Babylon

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While you're doing it, don't forget the heat exchanger, which needs annual attention according to my mechanic. I'm not sure exactly what, but apparently they can corrode expensively if ignored
I agree with your mechanic, and yes they can corrode expensively if ignored. The H/E comprises an aluminium fresh-water casing inside of which is a bronze stack through which seawater is pumped, all mounted on an iron engine block through which freshwater with AF/coolant flows. Neglect of the stack and/or O-rings, and/or not replacing the pencil anode (and cleaning out the crumbs of the old one) is not a wise option.

Drain the AF/coolant, remove and clean the stack, replace the O-rings, replace the pencil anode, etc, refill with fresh coolant etc. You'd be surprised how much less coolant comes out than went in the first time (see manual for capacity) because of crud in the system, so a good flush won't go amiss!

PS... and change the oil and filter while you're about it.

The air filter, impeller, gearbox ATF oil and secondary fuel filter can be left for two years - these are items that only really wear or degrade with engine use rather than time per se.

There's a very useful Beta Marine Owners' Group on Facebook
 
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PCUK

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Yes. Definitely. 100% yes. But can I please have your old oil and filter? Also, did you know diesel turns to horrible acid if left over winter. So you might as well give me your diesel too. What condition are your sails in?
Stop messing about Fred, take the whole engine and save all that fiddling around with separate bits!:cool:
 

Crinan12

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Thanks all for the responses

My motoring is generally for longer periods rather than short runs.

I'll just change the oil, maybe overkill but never mind

And regarding heat exchanger, I actually do that mid season
 

Rhylsailer99

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I was also wondering about an oil change. I think I will do mine spring time, even though the engine has not really done a lot of hours this year.,
 

MikeBz

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Last season, I went through the same reasoning and did not change oil and filter. After reading wonkywinches posting, I changed my mind and did. Glad I did, seeing the colour of the oil that came out!

Colour of the oil is not a useful indicator, it goes black very quickly - you’d change it many times a year on that basis.
 

Neeves

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If you have one I'd check the sail drive oil and service the windlass at the same time. As you are getting dirty hands and fingers you may as well service the winches as well. I'd also change the fuel filter. I'd always check the impeller when I replace the oil and fuel filters. If your yacht is stored on the hard for the winter I'd deploy all the chain neatly onto a pallet under the hull, wash with fresh water, where it will stay relatively dry and finally wash out the bow/chain/anchor locker with fresh water.

Most of these consumable, including the oil, is not particularly expensive (though in one hit adds up). Well organised you can do the lot in one, inclement, day. But it will show in your service diary that you are a careful owner - one whose yacht when on the market is one to be desired and you can sleep soundly knowing everything is serviced before spring comes round. Leaving the chain to corrode in a salt damp environment (the bow locker) will make the chain into quite a large financial consumable.....

The only reason for not doing an annual service is you are too busy or.........and as your yacht is possibly your second biggest financial investment it seems a bit odd not to care for it.

Most servicing is totally unnecessary, even for your car, but we, mostly, all do it (or have it done).

Jonathan
 
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