Perkins M50 fresh water pump woes - any suggestions?

alexincornwall

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My relationship with our Perkins M50 is a little strained at present so I’m hoping some clever forum members might be able to throw a few ideas at our quite unusual problem and help us to get back on track.

Earlier this year I noted that we were leaking a little coolant from the front of the engine and into my clinically clean bilges. The leak was minor, perhaps a teaspoon ever 10 hours. Suddenly, things got a lot worse and reached a point where we were losing over a litre per hour. The next time I arrived to the boat the seals had let go completely whilst the engine was shut down. Fairly easy diagnosis - water pump seal failure. It looked like the original 30-year-old part so it had had a good innings.

There’s a global shortage of genuine Perkins parts so we bought a non-genuine unit from a regarded engine spares business. Pump purchased, inspected (looked good), and professionally installed - pulling apart the timing belt and pulleys isn’t for me, especially given that our engine bay space is incredibly awkward at this end of the unit.

Sadly, it appeared that we’d bought a duff and the pump immediately leaked from the drip hole but at a manageable rate of around 250ml every 12 hours of running. Our engineer was happy with installation so we all concurred that it was simply bad luck. We bought a second from the same seller and went through the motions again. Guess what? Leaked again. Same place, same volume of coolant loss, and same interesting pattern of coolant loss. I’m confused, our engineer is scratching his head and the parts seller thinks it highly, highly unlikely that we’d have bought two duds in a row - I can see his point.

Here’s what’s happening:

- Engine fires up - no leak

- Around 20-30 minutes from start-up (Perhaps 10 minutes after reaching running temp), coolant begins to drip into bilge at its fastest rate from the drip seal. Let’s say a drop every 10-20 seconds.

- Engine continues to run at a constant 82ish degrees - never overheats

- Drip continues at higher rate for around 90 minutes

- Then subsides to slow drip

- Around 3 hours of running and the drip is virtually gone

- Approx. 250ml coolant mixture in the bilges

Identical symptoms for both new pumps.

Here’s what has been done:

- Pressure tested the second pump installation - no problem

- Checked the RTV gasket on both installations - all good (we can see coolant staining around drip seal of the first pump so no doubt that it’s coming from there)

- Compared and replaced radiator filler cap to ensure correct operation of pressure release

- Confirmed that we’ve not overfilled the system (though would expect any overfill to escape via the cap overflow - we don’t have a header tank)

- Confirmed that we’re not losing coolant from the overflow

- Confirmed that the coolant we’ve lost is clean and contains no notable rust or debris

Any ideas? Have I simply struck bad luck twice in a row or is there something that we’re missing here? Is there any way that the pressure in the system would cause the pump to leak before the rad cap released from fluid from the overflow?
 
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Beneteau381

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My relationship with our Perkins M50 is a little strained at present so I’m hoping some clever forum members might be able to throw a few ideas at our quite unusual problem and help us to get back on track.

Earlier this year I noted that we were leaking a little coolant from the front of the engine and into my clinically clean bilges. The leak was minor, perhaps a teaspoon ever 10 hours. Suddenly, things got a lot worse and reached a point where we were losing over a litre per hour. The next time I arrived to the boat the seals had let go completely whilst the engine was shut down. Fairly easy diagnosis - water pump seal failure. It looked like the original 30-year-old part so it had had a good innings.

There’s a global shortage of genuine Perkins parts so we bought a non-genuine unit from a regarded engine spares business. Pump purchased, inspected (looked good), and professionally installed - pulling apart the timing belt and pulleys isn’t for me, especially given that our engine bay space is incredibly awkward at this end of the unit.

Sadly, it appeared that we’d bought a duff and the pump immediately leaked from the drip hole but at a manageable rate of around 250ml every 12 hours of running. Our engineer was happy with installation so we all concurred that it was simply bad luck. We bought a second from the same seller and went through the motions again. Guess what? Leaked again. Same place, same volume of coolant loss, and same interesting pattern of coolant loss. I’m confused, our engineer is scratching his head and the parts seller thinks it highly, highly unlikely that we’d have bought two duds in a row - I can see his point.

Here’s what’s happening:

- Engine fires up - no leak

- Around 20-30 minutes from start-up (Perhaps 10 minutes after reaching running temp), coolant begins to drip into bilge at its fastest rate from the drip seal. Let’s say a drop every 10-20 seconds.

- Engine continues to run at a constant 82ish degrees - never overheats

- Drip continues at higher rate for around 90 minutes

- Then subsides to slow drip

- Around 3 hours of running and the drip is virtually gone

- Approx. 250ml coolant mixture in the bilges

Identical symptoms for both new pumps.

Here’s what has been done:

- Pressure tested the second pump installation - no problem

- Checked the RTV gasket on both installations - all good (we can see coolant staining around drip seal of the first pump so no doubt that it’s coming from there)

- Compared and replaced radiator filler cap to ensure correct operation of pressure release

- Confirmed that we’ve not overfilled the system (though would expect any overfill to escape via the cap overflow - we don’t have a header tank)

- Confirmed that we’re not losing coolant from the overflow

- Confirmed that the coolant we’ve lost is clean and contains no notable rust or debris

Any ideas? Have I simply struck bad luck twice in a row or is there something that we’re missing here? Is there any way that the pressure in the system would cause the pump to leak before the rad cap released from fluid from the overflow?
Got to start thinking outside the box. The seal is usually a ceramic ring and a stainless ring held face to face by spring pressure. The spring is held in place by the impellor. This generates the pressure which makes the seal between the two rings. One is sealed on the shaft by small "rubber" bellows usually and the other on the casing. For two to be faulty is very unusual.
The running for a period of time, ie "running in" seems to alleviate the leak? Which could indicate issues of the faces not mating properly? So why is that? Antifreeze? is some weird i teraction happening, is there contamination ofthe system which is scratching the faces? Is the mating faces of the pump and block having some weird interaction?
 

Bilgediver

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Boater Sam

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Once you have eliminated all the possible causes, you are left with the unlikely truism that more than one new pump can have the same manufacturing/assembly problem.

I would dismantle the new leaky pump for examination.
 

alexincornwall

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The coolant is definitely pink, which I think suggests OAT? That said, the boat was filled with the pink a long time before any problems came to light.
 

Bilgediver

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Beware the colour descriptions as I read that antifreeze has been made in many different colours and like, diesel colouring, is not an indicator of chemistry. Happy to be corrected on this, but it came from my research for Perkins 4236 antifreeze.
I have noticed recently that even car makers have their own colours for their badged product. Can be all the colours of our traffic lights.
 

rotrax

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A fellow petrolhead - 2X British Champion at two car racing disiplines - and with an almost obsessive technical mindset found out recently that there is a particular antifreeze required by several Honda motorcycles which is 'sillicate free'.

Sillicate particles are carried in suspension in many anti freeze solutions to aid keeping fine passages clear. It is very effective in so doing.

However, some water pumps - as used by Honda Motorcycles - fail early if sillica particles get between the spring loaded face seals.

Worth investigating.
 

Bilgediver

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A fellow petrolhead - 2X British Champion at two car racing disiplines - and with an almost obsessive technical mindset found out recently that there is a particular antifreeze required by several Honda motorcycles which is 'sillicate free'.

Sillicate particles are carried in suspension in many anti freeze solutions to aid keeping fine passages clear. It is very effective in so doing.

However, some water pumps - as used by Honda Motorcycles - fail early if sillica particles get between the spring loaded face seals.

Worth investigating.

Some Honda cars too ! Those particles could produce the effect described by the OP
 

Beneteau381

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The coolant is definitely pink, which I think suggests OAT? That said, the boat was filled with the pink a long time before any problems came to light.
Pink is usually OAT, it might just be that that is causing the issue. Do some more googling, there is lots out there. Worth changing to normal to check if it helps, cheaper than changing the pump again
 

Bilgediver

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Pink is usually OAT, it might just be that that is causing the issue. Do some more googling, there is lots out there. Worth changing to normal to check if it helps, cheaper than changing the pump again
Some OAT has silicone and some does not. My Honda has to have the silicate free. Apparently the silicate can score ceramic water pump seals so could be the OP's problem
 

Beneteau381

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Have now caught up with the engineer, it’s a silicone free OAT.
I would question first of all why OAT was used in an old design engine which was first designed in the 80s. Next move, I would suggest changing the anti freeze and give it a good run and see if that makes any difference.
 
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