Volvo Penta 5.7 OSXI-JF no spark

[mkor]

Hey guys, me and my boat just arrived in the UK and after a start and first ride the spark went out. I don't know anyone here at all. I am in the Solent, on the Humble River, on a pontoon in the middle of the river. And I really need a person who can come and read the error codes of my engine. I can take you by car and tender to the boat. I'm taking someone else's place on the pontoon and I need to fix it very urgently.

Problem Description: There is no spark on the high voltage wire of the ignition coil.

The crankshaft sensor gives out 150-200 rpm, its contacts look good, I did not change it to a new one. I see 5V power on it.

Camshaft sensor replaced. I see 5V power on it.

The distributor cap and rotor have been replaced.

Coil and ignition module replaced. I see 12V power on the ignition coil and ignition module after turning the plug to ON for a few seconds, after that I see 0V and at the moment I crank the motor I see 12V.

Fuel injectors see 12V, as well as on the coil and module.

I can't check the integrity of the signal wires from the sensor as there is no wiring diagram for my motor.

I did not replace the crankshaft sensor, because the heat exchanger interferes and I see the tachometer readings, I'm not sure if it's necessary.

 

[QBhoy]

Hi. I have a fairly similar mercruiser variant, if I’m thinking of the right engine. Usually the gxi is the same thing as the mercruiser mpi I have, but I’m also aware that some of the VP oxi or osi or whatever they are called (confuse the life out me, these newer VP’s), can also be almost identical in terms of their fundamental make up and ignition system.
firstly, I suppose I’d ask more in particular about the circumstances around when you found her not playing ball. Did she cut out on you whilst running ok and nothing varied in terms of her state ? Or forgive me for asking, did she not start again under circumstances that meant she didn’t have a sudden failure ? What I’m getting at really…is it possible that you have activated the lanyard safety kill switch by mistake or perhaps even left her in gear by mistake? Both would mean that you could turn her over but you’ll have no ignition to fire her up. (I use this very state to crank mine over after storage, to build a little oil pressure before starting her dry of lubrication after sitting for so long)
Anyway…that aside and being the simple solution (we have all done it before !), I’d also ask more around the mention of the distributor cap being changed ? As in, how recently was it changed ? If you mean it was changed anytime other than during your current fault fault finding measures, I’d strongly urge you to absolutely not rule this out as being good. More so if it was changed anytime previous to any term of winter storage and/or a term of storage or lay up in changeable damp or variable conditions.
having had my engine for nearly a decade now and looking after or maintaining many others similar, I can absolutely tell you that by far and away, thee single biggest issue with these engines is the terrible and poorly designed cap they have. Assuming it’s the same flat/crab/spider type on yours. These are now infamous in their reputation for failure. Can fail at any given time on you and lure the unsuspecting down a road of tail chasing and expense elsewhere. I even had a brand new one fail out the box on me.
Anyway. Have a look at it for bad assembly, cracking or signs of damp. But half the time there are no visible signs of issue even. If it’s not that causingan issue, it will be at some point later.
Other than that, start with the kill switch, in gear interlock or even the switch itself for failure.
Just as a final thought…another well known and unassuming issue with these is the countless times I’ve seen your very condition, caused by anything less than a perfect battery. Caught so many out to date with these. Easy to think that because it’s turning over ok…the battery is good…when in actual fact, what commonly occurs is that the very action of turning the engine over, takes that much load to do so, that there isn’t enough power available to fire the ignition system. These engines and many since them, with their featured and countless sensors, components and dependencies, require an un compromised supply of power, or it just won’t play. Had me fooled in the early days too. Totally ruled the battery out because it turned over. Not the case at all. Good luck and sorry for the chapter and verse.

 

[mkor]

Hi, thanks for the reply. Yes, this is the motor you are talking about. I have 3 caps, 2 of them are new. I already changed it all. And the cover, and the rotor, and the sensor that is in the distributor. Also changed the coil and the ignition module.

The fact is that for some reason the ECU does not give a signal to the ignition module, and the ignition module does not apply a negative to the ignition coil and therefore there is no spark. And it's impossible to install it without an error scanner.

I found a broken wire in the ignition switch yesterday and fixed it. The wire that gives 12V to the coil. But nothing has changed.

Kill switch is fine.

I don't rule out my batteries as I'm standing on a pontoon and have been struggling with this for 2 weeks now. But I have a solar panel that constantly recharges me. Yesterday I saw 12.7V but when scrolling, it dropped by 10V. I left 2 batteries in charging mode and will try to come and try again. I don't remember if it should drop to 10V or not.

 

[mkor]

In any case, I'm looking for a person who has Diakom, Vodia, or any other error scanner to read this. I went to all the dealers around, but they are busy until the middle of May. I have to go earlier, because I'm occupying someone else's parking space.

I've also considered buying a diacom in the US, but it's about £500. Sorry for the money.

Give me the contact of a person who could help me.

 

[scottie]

Similar problems if Ingear safety switch start switch or rev limiter interfering ?

 

[Scarron]

You should talk to Jason Phillips at JMP Marine 023 8250 1000 he is the nearest Volvo dealer and will get you going.
JMP Marine Services – Engineering – Stabilisation

 

[mkor]

You should talk to Jason Phillips at JMP Marine 023 8250 1000 he is the nearest Volvo dealer and will get you going.
JMP Marine Services – Engineering – Stabilisation

All dealers in my area are busy until the end of May.

 

[mkor]

Similar problems if Ingear safety switch start switch or rev limiter interfering ?

12V goes to the ignition coil, If there was a problem, I would not get 12V to the coil.

We need a person who agrees to come at any time, day, night, I will come, pick him up, deliver him to the boat, he will connect his diagnostic program and tell me what is the reason.

 

[QBhoy]

Hi, thanks for the reply. Yes, this is the motor you are talking about. I have 3 caps, 2 of them are new. I already changed it all. And the cover, and the rotor, and the sensor that is in the distributor. Also changed the coil and the ignition module.

The fact is that for some reason the ECU does not give a signal to the ignition module, and the ignition module does not apply a negative to the ignition coil and therefore there is no spark. And it's impossible to install it without an error scanner.

I found a broken wire in the ignition switch yesterday and fixed it. The wire that gives 12V to the coil. But nothing has changed.

Kill switch is fine.

I don't rule out my batteries as I'm standing on a pontoon and have been struggling with this for 2 weeks now. But I have a solar panel that constantly recharges me. Yesterday I saw 12.7V but when scrolling, it dropped by 10V. I left 2 batteries in charging mode and will try to come and try again. I don't remember if it should drop to 10V or not.

Yeah. I’d definitely go for another battery for sure then. Caught me out in the early years of these. Many since

 

[mkor]

Already checked, on terminals 12.75 when scrolling, 11.55 falls. All OK. But there is no spark.

 

[mkor]

Advise who has a scanner? Because in desperation I was going to buy it in the USA.

 

[mkor]

Volvo published a service bulletin covering troubleshooting this ignition system. That bulletin is S.B. 28-1-6 Most dealers will print you a copy if you ask them. I highly recommend you get a copy and follow it carefully before going further.

I got this recommendation from USA, is there any dealer reading this, can you give me this bulletin?