Volvo Penta 2002 Starting

[SteveB_Sigma33]

After re-wiring and replumbing my Engine this year ready for the season ahead I have just one more issue I'd like to sort with my engine. Therefore I'm turning to the grease monkeys on this forum for some advice...

To start the Engine after a period of inactivity she takes about 12 to 15 cranks and then coughs and starts fine. If she is then left for say a few hours the engine starts pretty much instantly. Therefore I may be wrong but I'm concluding that compression in the engine is fine. I do all of the specified things for cold starting as per the Volvo manual - set the throttle at 75% and then pull the engine stop in and out for extra fuel etc.

Is it a case I have to adjust something to ensure extra fuel is going in for cold starting!?!?!

I know my batteries are good and during starting the starter motor goes at a reasonable pace to crank the engine over. Can anyone suggest where I should start to look/tinker?

Thanks in advance

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[Juggler7823]

Try using the decompression lever on top of the engine at the front. Turn the engine over with the lever up, knock the lever down and it should start.

<hr width=100% size=1>LOM

 

[SteveB_Sigma33]

I do do that if she's being difficult, the only problem that takes 2 people! I was hoping I could find a solution as to why she is being stubborn at starting so that I can overcome it single handed etc.



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[Rowana]

Where is your fuel tank?? Is it above or below the level of the engine lift pump??

I suspect, from the symptoms you describe that it is fuel related.

If there is a means of hand oprtating the lift pump, give it a couple of cranks to prime the engine first after it's sat for a while, then see if it starts any better.

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[SteveB_Sigma33]

Tank is above, but I will give that ago. Thanks. Don't know why I didn't think of that! Doh!



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[Juggler7823]

The 200X series is well known for poor starting as they get older. The cause is usually caused by poor compression. The exhaust valve rear of the rear cylinder is prone to pitting in the wet atmosphere. Grinding the valves in (or reseating them) usually improves the compression.

<hr width=100% size=1>LOM

 

[SteveB_Sigma33]

Erm! How complicated is that to do?!?!

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[anchorhandler]

If your engine starts ok after a few hours (assuming that its cooled down), but struggles to start after inactivity, i would check for a faulty non-return valve on the fuel supply system. I'm not 100% conversant with your perticular engine however it sounds as though fuel is running back to the tank, slowly over time thus causing a problem when started again. Check around the lift pump, if there is no NRV there then your engine may rely on a valve in the fuel filter/sperator (ie: racor type filters).
One easy way of proving this is to shut the fuel supply line off as soon as the engine has stopped running then, after a similar period of inactivity, open the stopcock and try starting the engine!
Hope this helps.
Simon

<hr width=100% size=1>I'v got 2 ears.2 eyes and 1 mouth....if only i could use them in that proportion!

 

[zephyrsailor]

my md2020 had that problem. does it have glow plugs on a 2002? if so check them.

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[brianhumber]

These need everything 100% to start with minimal cranking.
Good compression
Clean injector tips
No leaky non-return fuel system valves.

Trouble is once she has started you cannot see anything is wrong, unless the injectors are really caked and cause black smoke.
Can you live with it, if not you will have to get the hammers and spanners out I'm afraid.

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[scottie]

if you do not find a definite cause then before you start stripping heads etc

chang the washers in the fuel lines as they hasden over time and leak air


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[jamesjermain]

My 2003 is very much the same. After a long lay-off, particularly over winter she can take a while to start. Does yours finally start in a cloud of white smoke?

I have learned to live with this - its a Volvo 200? common fault, and in every other respect the engine works very well. During the season she will start on the first revolution after a week's idleness. She smokes a little but, at 20 years young, she is entitled to.

Last year, however, she got really difficult to start and the cause was a blocked final fuel filter. A blast through with compressed air solved it (having removed it first, of course!)

<hr width=100% size=1>JJ

 

[SteveB_Sigma33]

Yes she does start with a puff of white smoke. Am I right in saying white smoke is okay? black smoke bad!

Well looks lilke I'll spend Saturday morning playing with diesel then. Looking for return valves and blockages! Nice.

Once again many thanks for everyones input.

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[jimi]

My (3yo) Yanmar3GM is the same in cold weather .. I just put it down to temperature!

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[tomboy352]

Diesel bleeding by

You may suffer from fuel bleeding by back into the tank over a period of time as has already been posted. If you leave the engine stood for a few days and before you try to crank it, remove the bleed screw completly from the top filter housing. You should see the fuel level at the top of the hole. If non is present, it sounds like bleed by. You can further check this by using the hand primer on the lift pump and topping up this same fuel level until the filter just overflows. Leave the engine stood with this screw removed and the level should hold. If it leaks by, first check all your banjo fittings for tightness/washer condition and ultimately, you can fit an in-line non return valve in both the supply from the tank to the lift pump and the spill return to tank. They cost about £5 each and if you have plastic or rubber pipes in this part of your pipework , they are a doddle to fit. It took me about three seasons to get to this point on my 2003t but it finally did the trick. Luck

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[tomboy352]

Diesel bleeding by

You may suffer from fuel bleeding by back into the tank over a period of time as has already been posted. If you leave the engine stood for a few days and before you try to crank it, remove the bleed screw completly from the top filter housing. You should see the fuel level at the top of the hole. If non is present, it sounds like bleed by. You can further check this by using the hand primer on the lift pump and topping up this same fuel level until the filter just overflows. Leave the engine stood with this screw removed and the level should hold. If it leaks by, first check all your banjo fittings for tightness/washer condition and ultimately, you can fit an in-line non return valve in both the supply from the tank to the lift pump and the spill return to tank. They cost about £5 each and if you have plastic or rubber pipes in this part of your pipework , they are a doddle to fit. It took me about three seasons to get to this point on my 2003t but it finally did the trick. Luck

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