Vent in Galley?

[DangerousPirate]

I am currently cooking and the steam just gets everywhere on my 30ft boat, at the moment the heater is on, but when on the hook I won't have that luxury and I don't want everything to get damp/wet, but I also don't want to avoid cooking or having to cook outside.

Thinking a vent above the galley, but right above the galley I have the sprayhood and rope clutches and winches or the footing area of the deck right where the jibtrack is. Not sure where I can fit a vent. Possible to fit a went on the side of the cabin or something? What are you solutions? Just shopping for ideas right now.

 

[Momac]

What are you solutions?

Open a window.

 

[PetiteFleur]

A couple of years ago I fitted a small Lewmar hatch over the cooker and it's good for ventilation - depends on where you can fit the hatch, ok on my boat - a Moody 33mk2, not sure about your boat.

 

[DangerousPirate]

And I got a sprayhood, too.

 

[Tranona]

Leave the washboards out and the sliding hatch open. Just one of the compromises of cramming so much into a limited space. Actual practicalities of living on board and doing boring things like cooking, washing, going to the toilet were very low on the list of priorities in boats like that. A vent will have to be in the roof. You may find opening the forehatch helps as the airflow is usually from forward aft. Consider cooking methods that do not involve boiling water - easier if you have an oven.

 

[Neeves]

If you are at anchor then set up a ventilation system such that the flow is from bow to stern. Open a fore hatch, slightly, lift out the wash boards. Simple stuff. The anchor will ensure the fore hatch catches the breeze. You don't need to get too excited about opening the fore hatch just lift it slightly - and if its teaming down with rain devise a little hood for the fore hatch, like a pram hood - to catch the breeze but shelter the hatch from rain.

Other options like adding a hatch over the galley are a bit drastic.

If you have standard port lights - replace one with an opening one (you can buy rain covers for some port lights) - but opening a fore hatch in the bow and making a cover for the hatch is so much cheaper and less drastic.

If you are intent on cutting into the structure - look at the bow locker and its aft bulkhead - might the ventilation be improved with a vent in that aft bulkhead - leading into the forepeak....?? The anchor/chain locker is commonly self draining - its good to open the hatch to air the contents any way....??

Jonathan

 

[DangerousPirate]

If you are at anchor then set up a ventilation system such that the flow is from bow to stern. Open a fore hatch, slightly, lift out the wash boards. Simple stuff. The anchor will ensure the fore hatch catches the breeze. You don't need to get too excited about opening the fore hatch just lift it slightly - and if its teaming down with rain devise a little hood for the fore hatch, like a pram hood - to catch the breeze but shelter the hatch from rain.

Other options like adding a hatch over the galley are a bit drastic.

If you have standard port lights - replace one with an opening one (you can buy rain covers for some port lights) - but opening a fore hatch in the bow and making a cover for the hatch is so much cheaper and less drastic.

If you are intent on cutting into the structure - look at the bow locker and its aft bulkhead - might the ventilation be improved with a vent in that aft bulkhead - leading into the forepeak....?? The anchor/chain locker is commonly self draining - its good to open the hatch to air the contents any way....??

Jonathan

The forward hatch, for whatever reason, opens away from the bow so I can't do that. Currently I am alongside a pontoon, so there is not much airflow. The windows are all fixed and don't open BUT I suppose I could build a small, openable one in the corner.

Or alternatively I could put a vent somewhere a little further fore like maybe here:

Would that be any good?

Or maybe install something like a cooker hood that sucks the steam in and blows it out.

At anchor it might help to just crack the hatches when at anchor, but in a marina, even with heater, it's still steam in the entire boat. I do not even boil so much water, but if I make rice or do some meat it just gets all over the place really. I know these boats were not designed to cook in or for colder weather sailing in general, but there must be a way.

Too bad there is so much stuff above the galley or a smallvent would have been an easy solution.

 

[William_H]

I would think the cooker hood idea might be best. You want minimum air flow through the boat if you are trying to heat the cabin so you want very directed ventilation above the stove. I would suggest you get some sort of flexible ducting say 80 mm diameter into which you can fit a small computer type 12v fan. Perhaps some sort of flare at the stove end top emulate a hood. Run it out of the main hatch temporarily. This may prove the concept such that you will feel comfortable to cut a vent hole in the roof in a convenient place (forward) with ducting bent to go to the vent. If this works ok you might find it successful to run the stove when on a hook as the only cabin heating. (when ventilation will be vital) ol'will

 

[jamie N]

On my similarly scaled Folkboat, I do a lot of cooking and coffeeing without this being an issue. The boat isn't hermetically sealed. To get a semblance of an airflow through the boat, I crack the forehatch open by laying the genoa sheet under it.
I've just replaced my washboards with a 'saloon' style doors, which will have less airflow through it, but won't add to any damp issue I believe, but if it does, then I'll put a vent on one of the doors.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Hawkins pressure cooker to reduce steam (and fuel usage)...

Hawkins Pressure Cooker - Shop online and save up to 71% | UK | LionsHome

 

[fredrussell]

How about a smallish mushroom vent on coachroof above cooker with a hi flow computer fan below it acting as an extractor fan.

 

[Neeves]

Hawkins pressure cooker to reduce steam (and fuel usage)...

Hawkins Pressure Cooker - Shop online and save up to 71% | UK | LionsHome

Good thinking

OR

A Shuttle Chef by Thermos, or the Mr B's Thermal Cooker - upmarket? straw box. Less intimidating than a pressure cooker - an important characteristic for some

We would not be without them

Thermos Thermal Cooker Review - Practical Sailor

Jonathan

 

[PaulRainbow]

Good thinking

OR

A Shuttle Chef by Thermos, or the Mr B's Thermal Cooker - upmarket? straw box. Less intimidating than a pressure cooker - an important characteristic for some

We would not be without them

Thermos Thermal Cooker Review - Practical Sailor

Jonathan

We have a MrD and an Instant Pot (electric pressure cooker), take the Instant Pot or pressure cooker outside to vent the pressure. Also would not be without them, the energy saving is also significant.

 

[Praxinoscope]

My Sadler 25 has a mushroom vent directly above the cooker, never had any condensation problems, but as far as the OP is concerned I can see the problem of how and where to fit one, the drawings only give a rough idea of the coach roof layout, a photo of the area above the cooker would be useful.
When I bought my 25 the Houdini hatch had been fitted the opening towards the bows (the USA standard.), I refitted the hatch the other way around so the opening is aft, a much more ‘sanitary’ arrangement I think.

 

[ashtead]

Not answering issue directly but investing in a dehumidifier might help to generally dry out the boat. We have 2 Venus stainless cowl type vents in saloon but in reality open windows and have at least top washboard out. Can you extend or fill in back of sprayhood to create a mini porch by way of a zip in back -would seem then you could keep washboards out and let stem rise into space outside.

 

[Neeves]

I shudder at the suggestion of cutting holes in the deck or coachroof in order to fit a hatch (or device) to improve ventilation.

If the fore hatch does not open such that air flow is improved - take the hatch out (completely) and turn round, through 180 degrees, and see if that has any improvement. hatches are usually symmetrical and you can use the same screw holes. If you don't like it - turn it back to the original - all you need is a screw driver and some Sikaflex.

Jonathan

 

[dansaskip]

Turn the cooker down so its a gentle simmer rather than boil everything to death and or get a pressure cooker like others suggest. I (almost always) have the hatch open, no washboards in so it's not a problem.

 

[Neeves]

We have a catamaran where installation was easier but

I ducted with domestic kitchen extractor ducting from our bow locker, through bulkheads, there were 2 for the whole system, behind the upholstery, into and through the bilges to an extractor vent for the engine. I introduced a 100mm square computer fan wired to the fridge, so it comes on when the compressor comes on (and off when the compressor is off) and does the same for the deep freeze, which is under the cabin sole. I did this to improve the efficiency of the fridge and freezer, thus removing g the warm air from the 2 compressors. Our fridge has an air gap all round and I can 'feel' the air flow round the fridge (as it vents 'into' the galley area).

Some one suggested something similar in an earlier post. I accept we have more room than most - but think along the same lines - you are moving fresh air from the bow locker (which you need to keep clean and sweet smelling ) - it will make for fridge more efficient, it adds very little to power demands and if you arrange it carefully you can remove hot air from the galley area.

It just needs a bit of thought and planning. If you have eye high lockers - maybe perfect. You don't need to use domestic ducting - there must be other forms....?? As a start I'd bodge up a washboard (use cardboard) with a computer fan in it wired to a cigarette lighter type outlet - and see how that works. An enormous number of devices use computer fans and they are all, or mostly 12v. Lots of electronics gets tossed out - but having scavenged - the fans invariably work . Start simple, start cheap.

Jonathan

 

[Saint Lawrence Seaway]

As an ex-backpacking camper, I would never heat a pot without a lid on. There's a massive saving in cooking time and fuel use and a consequent reduction in steam released, not to mention less risk of stuff splashing over. The suggestion of a hotbox is another great fuel and steam reduction measure.

With the steam more controlled, the steamiest bit of cooking will be when you strain off pasta or veg, so do that on the companionway step if possible, with the sliding hatch pushed open.

I'm refitting a folkboat and I'm making the companionway top step (which needs to be fairly deep for a secure foothold anyway) deep enough to use as a side prep area for this kind of thing. All the steam should whoosh up and out, hopefully. You could always add a fold-up flap to the step riser on existing steps if you want to avoid getting into Grand Designs territory.

As for steam-spouting kettles, leave them ashore. A lidded pan is just as good as a kettle for heating water for drinks.

 

[DangerousPirate]

As an ex-backpacking camper, I would never heat a pot without a lid on. There's a massive saving in cooking time and fuel use and a consequent reduction in steam released, not to mention less risk of stuff splashing over. The suggestion of a hotbox is another great fuel and steam reduction measure.

Same, also backpacked for years, I don't cook without a lid. But when you take the lid off, steam just goes everywhere. You just can't avoid that.

Will look at a hood and a little fan then. Or maybe just open the hatch and have a fan directed there to immediately blow it out? Should work, too.