PowerYachtBlog
Well-known member
There is a bit of confusion here on resin and what it delivers for osmosis. I am trying to see what I can remember into this.
First of all boat builders have five type of resins to choose, from Polyester, Isophtalic, Vinilester Poly based, Vinilester Epoxy based, and Epoxy. The more you go up the list the better the protection of water infiltration is in between the layers of the hulls, and the costlier it gets to build. Vinilester appeared in the nineties as a cheaper variation to Epoxy, and was splitted in two variants more or less in 2005.
Most known builders build with Isophtalic resin (see Cranchi, Princess and Fairline), other build with Vinilester Poly (see Sunseeker and Azimut), other high end builders build with Vinilester Epoxy see (Viking USA, Hatteras etc).
Old 1970s Polyester hardly blistered, things changed in late 70s (oil crisis polyester mix was changed) and all resins had catalsyt rate reduced in 2002. Not only for health reasons during build but also for fire retarding reasons.
I remember working on a couple new Fairlines and Azimut around 2002/04 which had a lot of large chipping areas all around the hull.
You would never have seen this before 2002, and you still see it today on some builds. Last I saw it was on a new Princess last year.
Gelcoat has little to do with osmosis, it is more what you get behind it, the resin reaction that creates osmotic pressure to the infiltration water etc etc
Gelcoat is a porous paint even worse then standard car spray paint but is the most cost effective time saving way to paint a boat without actually painting it.
Yes some builders see Ferretti and Fairline use to do it (do not know if they still do) with a roller on hull bottom instead of spray, saying it covers better but it still remains a paint with invisible pouring occurring,
Problems can be worse nowadays with fully cored boats (below waterline), more so if Balsa but even with some PVC the result can be the same.
It will also be whether your balsa is end grain or not or if your core is water resistant or not.
One last thing gel-coat thickness is not decided by the builder but by the quality of same.
For example some US boat builder have the most perfect gel-coat you see (e,g Sea Ray) , but the maker of the gel-coat will give a maximum thickness to .5 mm.
In my experience the more the gel-coat has a car like spray finish the more thin it is. On the other hand the more less shiny (raw) the gel-coat is the more thickness it can afford.
If you go above the nos of the gel-coat manufacturer the gel-coat will start the craze, hairline crack etc etc. See why a lot of new boats crack in corners.
Anyways not to go against what that builder said to M, but I think some things need to be corrected.
First of all boat builders have five type of resins to choose, from Polyester, Isophtalic, Vinilester Poly based, Vinilester Epoxy based, and Epoxy. The more you go up the list the better the protection of water infiltration is in between the layers of the hulls, and the costlier it gets to build. Vinilester appeared in the nineties as a cheaper variation to Epoxy, and was splitted in two variants more or less in 2005.
Most known builders build with Isophtalic resin (see Cranchi, Princess and Fairline), other build with Vinilester Poly (see Sunseeker and Azimut), other high end builders build with Vinilester Epoxy see (Viking USA, Hatteras etc).
Old 1970s Polyester hardly blistered, things changed in late 70s (oil crisis polyester mix was changed) and all resins had catalsyt rate reduced in 2002. Not only for health reasons during build but also for fire retarding reasons.
I remember working on a couple new Fairlines and Azimut around 2002/04 which had a lot of large chipping areas all around the hull.
You would never have seen this before 2002, and you still see it today on some builds. Last I saw it was on a new Princess last year.
Gelcoat has little to do with osmosis, it is more what you get behind it, the resin reaction that creates osmotic pressure to the infiltration water etc etc
Gelcoat is a porous paint even worse then standard car spray paint but is the most cost effective time saving way to paint a boat without actually painting it.
Yes some builders see Ferretti and Fairline use to do it (do not know if they still do) with a roller on hull bottom instead of spray, saying it covers better but it still remains a paint with invisible pouring occurring,
Problems can be worse nowadays with fully cored boats (below waterline), more so if Balsa but even with some PVC the result can be the same.
It will also be whether your balsa is end grain or not or if your core is water resistant or not.
One last thing gel-coat thickness is not decided by the builder but by the quality of same.
For example some US boat builder have the most perfect gel-coat you see (e,g Sea Ray) , but the maker of the gel-coat will give a maximum thickness to .5 mm.
In my experience the more the gel-coat has a car like spray finish the more thin it is. On the other hand the more less shiny (raw) the gel-coat is the more thickness it can afford.
If you go above the nos of the gel-coat manufacturer the gel-coat will start the craze, hairline crack etc etc. See why a lot of new boats crack in corners.
Anyways not to go against what that builder said to M, but I think some things need to be corrected.
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