Suzuki 2hp outboard

martinb

New member
Joined
27 Apr 2002
Messages
265
Location
Solent
Visit site
I have just dug my Suzuki o/b out of the bowels of the garage after six months and, remarkably, it started on the second pull. However my joy was short lived when I realised it is not pumping water. I have checked the impellor and it is fine so I have reached the conculsion that the water way is blocked somewhere(I know, I should have flushed the engine at the end of last season) and it would appear that there is no access to clear it out. I thought about running the engine in a weak caustic solution to try and dissolve the blockage, but I am not sure that the caustic will reach the blockage.
Any one have any tips to clear the engine, that do not involve stripping down the engine?

Martin

<hr width=100% size=1>
 

Seal_surfer

New member
Joined
23 Aug 2002
Messages
120
Location
Suffolk
Visit site
Don't do the caustic - I'm sure this is bad for aluminium - can anyone confirm this?

Blocked waterways is a common occurence with most small water cooled O/Bs after 4 - 6 years of saltwater use. Flushing would proably not have made a big difference unless done after each use - not very practical. Always store upright to assist draining leg and preferably allow a cooldown period on tickover after hard use might help stave it off a little.

The problem is that the water passages around the cylinder are a ring literally only 1/8'' across and salt crystals soon bridge this with a "concrete" like paste which strangles water flow & insulates the cylinder.

On a simple small engine, I found this a reasonable DIY job - although I have had a delays getting the right gasket, etc. from some dealers .

Remedy is to take off head (only four or five nuts) and carefully dig out the blockage. I found careful use of an old broken hacksaw blade worked several inches down the jacket was good. Take extreme care not to mark the head/block gasket faces, although you may have to scrape away any old gasket and possibly run them over fine emery on a flat plate to get back to good metal. Scrupulous cleaning must be ensured before reasssembly. Use a new gasket to the correct torque settings.

It may also be that there is a blockage in the labyrinth where the engine mounts onto the leg, but this is probably less likely.

Its worth changing the Zinc anode on the leg and touching up paintwork while you're there. I found matching up to a car colour from Hycote to be vastly superior to other aerosols - covers in one coat!


<hr width=100% size=1>
 

bazam

New member
Joined
9 Feb 2002
Messages
12
Visit site
Hi
I had a similar problem last year.I poked some electrical wire as far as I could through the tell tales and I've had no problems since.



<hr width=100% size=1>
 

vyv_cox

Well-known member
Joined
16 May 2001
Messages
25,464
Location
France, sailing Aegean Sea.
coxeng.co.uk
You're correct, any caustic substance attacks aluminium. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) could well be uncontrolled and damage is likely to result. An old remedy for cleaning up aluminium cylinder heads is to boil them in sodium carbonate (washing soda) also caustic but considerably less so than sodium hydroxide. I remember doing this with my first motorbike using my Mum's gas stove when I was about 17.

Of course, if you have no flow at all you are unlikely to get any washing soda to the head, in which case you are better off removing it.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 

philwebb

Member
Joined
8 May 2002
Messages
661
Location
london
Visit site
I have a Suzuki 2hp which I bought with the problem that you describe. I undid the bolts and cleaned out the cooling labyrinth. In addition to salt corrosion deposits
it contained a length of thin seaweed. Dismantling is quite an easy job but be
careful and ease the bolts first with WD40. I broke off one of the bolts and drilling
out the stub was not easy. I used a blue silicone rubber gasket compound from
Hafords and the engine was as good as gold afterwards.
Regards,
Phil

<hr width=100% size=1>
 

john_horsfall

New member
Joined
3 Jul 2003
Messages
3
Visit site
I also have a DT2 with cooling problems. I set the outboard up on the bench, removed the impeller and pumped water directly into the hole behind where the impeller was. It immediately flooded out of anti cavitation cowl where exhaust exits. None came out of the 2 holes half way up the shaft. Could the cooling pipe have come loose?

What is the best way of getting access to the cooling pipes? Phil - when you said you "removed the bolts and cleaned the cooling matrix" which bolts were you referring to.

I don't have easy access to a Suzuki dealer and am reluctant to undo anything which needs new gaskets.

<hr width=100% size=1>
 
Top