Simple outhaul tensioner

webcraft

webcraft

Well-Known Member
Joined
8 Jul 2001
Messages
40,410
Location
Cyberspace
www.bluemoment.com
Can someone in words of one syllable explain how I can make a simple outhaul tensioner that is just connected to the clew and the end of the boom?

4-1 purchase and some way of cleating it off, ideally?

- W
 
Firstly do you adjust the tension when sailing or just set and forget?

Secondly, how much space do you have between clew and boom end?
 
Have you got enough room/distance to the end of your boom? Even if you have, I think I'd use a cascade to achieve your 4 to 1. Single block on clew. Single block on boom end. Line from boom end, round clew block, through boom end block. That splices to becket block ‘floating’. Line from fwd on boom goes through that, and fwd to cleat. The clew line is probably dyneema unless your boat is very small. The loads here can be huge.
 
A bow shackle in the clew eyelet, another attached to the aft end of the boom, connected with a tensioning lanyard.

This is quite an effective, as well as simple, system; I use it to tension my guardwires.
 
Last edited:
Depends if you want to adjust it while sailing. A 4:1 purchase will do to provide the tension and if you just want to set it semi permanently just tie it off with a series of half hitches - that is the way O did it. If you want the tension adjustable you have no option but to have a way of cleating off the tail or incorporating a jamming block at the boom end.
 
As said a simple way is to have a saddle or similar attachment near the end of the boom on top. Run a cord from it through the clew and back to the saddle several times to make a crude tackle system tied off with a few hitches. This is really only practical to set before departure.
In my case on 21fter I have a saddle near the end of the boom on top but off to one side. I have fitted a turning sheave in a box set in the top of the boom. The line runs from the saddle through the clew eyelet back to the sheave (2 purchase) then down the boom to another turning sheave in a box near the gooseneck dropping down to deck to yet another sheave on a saddle in the deck then back to a winch and cleat. Convoluted yes but easily adjusted while under way.
Depending on distance clew to boom attachment you may need a way to hold clew down to boom. As in lahol12 system the clew will lift under main sheet pull down. OK if you have a slug into a track but for loose footed,several turns of cord will hold the clew snug to the boom and hopefully allow the clew to slide along for tight or loose. I use a piece of double sided velcro (sold as cable tidy) 3 turns around boom and clew.
Any lifting here will make the boom lower so more3 likely to bang your head. ol'will
 
Only on the end of the boom is a right pain, adjusting it when the wind comes up and the boom is determined to take your head off is a right pain.
My boom has a block and tackle inside the boom with the end you grab hold to pull coming out near the goose neck.
I'm going to change this to , clew, end of boom, through boom to gooseneck, turning block, down to deck turning block to block and tackle to adjust with, bringing the end to a controls panel...
Ha, just had William H's reply come up, a very similar system.
 
If you do not want to put any holes in the boom & do not mind going forward to adjust then fit a dynema soft shackle at the gooseneck. Should have a void there that you can get it fixed to. Then a 4:1 as suggested, Either as a cascade using friction rings or small pullies.Use 4mm line, finishing with an in line cam cleat with its own fairlead. Then a 6mm line to the tack end of the boom, through another small pulley (assuming you do not have any pullies in the boom) & through the clew & back to the end of the boom ( that creates an extra 2:1, albeit with a bit of friction, but usually no big deal so you now get 8:1.
If boat is bigger then back to winch & adjust from the cockpit is not only safer but easier & better to see what you are doing to the sail. You are more likely to use it as well.
 
webcraft said:
Got about 9 inches.
Want it super-flat in stronger winds because of some serious weather helm, but able to slacken it a bit in light airs. Loose footed main.
Click to expand...
You do not say what boat it is but if it is fractionally rigged the clew adjustment is not used on its own. You may find a cunningham useful to bring the flow forward
Shroud tension does make a difference to balance. Backstay can be used to bend the mast to flatten upper sections of the sail if the shrouds are set correctly
Kicking strap tension has an effect by letting the head twist away, although this is normally a function of the mainsheet, if you have a track- Do you?
Perhaps you have these, in which case apologies
If not--Post more details about the boat & size & pictures & perhaps we can make some more suggestions that may help the helm balance
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

S
Function of plastic ring on mail outhaul
Replies
6
Views
173
SimonNZ
S
S
Aerogen 4 capacitors
2
Replies
22
Views
610
Boater Sam
Boater Sam
A
Finding crew
Replies
2
Views
256
Phil_boat
P
P
Essential pre purchase or even pre survey checks
2
Replies
28
Views
893
Refueler
Refueler
A
Open Plotter Signal K NMEA0183
Replies
9
Views
291
st599
S

Share this page

Top