Roller fuller for jib on 22 foot boat - advice please

Samoddie

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I sail an Anderson 22, and need a new Genoa. There seems a strong argument for going for a furler at the same time - the storm jib is also very much an antique. However, if I am honest I don’t know much about how fullers work. For example do I definitely need to replace the forestay, or do some somehow slot over an existing stay? I have, obvs, watched various videos of installation - but how plausible is it for a a competent amateur to replace a forestay for hanked on jib with a furler. One video said it was 2 hours work?
Would love to hear people’s experience.
 

Tranona

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Some need new forestays and some fit existing. The popular Plastimo fit existing forestays (I am just about to fit one when it gets delivered - long waiting times!) However If the forestay is unknown age best to replace it. Adds about £100 to the cost. Nothing difficult about furlers The 609 is the size suitable for your boat. Here C:/Users/Stewart/Downloads/Plastimo-Jib-Reefing-T-Manual-English-only%20(1).pdf is the installation manual for the range. You will also need to buy the furling line and fairleads to take it back to the cockpit. 2 hours is a bit optimistic but on your size boat and if you have everything to hand it is a comfortable half days work - best with an extra pair of hands.

There are other makes available, Selden and Harken being perhaps the most common, but more expensive. If you are buying a new sail you may well find that the sailmaker will put together a package deal for you of the sail and furler.
 

VicS

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+1 to Tranona's reply but his link does not work for me ( I think it to a file on his own computer)

609S for your boat ( S= single groove foil ) assuming you dont want the twin groove foil

Plastimo 609 Jib Reefing

If you have a bottle screw on the forestay and wish to retain it you will need the longer side plates Called the "turnbuckle" version.

It can be fitted without lowering the mast if your existing forestay is serviceable but Tranona's advice to renew the forestay is good.
If you have the mast down, or will lower it to fit a new forestay, fit a fairlead type halyard diverter to the mast rather than using the wheel type diverter at the top of the spar.

Make sure your new sail has a bolt rope fitted suitable for your chosen furler
 

oldmanofthehills

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The lack of foredeck work resulting from a furler, is great in unsettled weather. Modern genoas with foam luff, furl well and furling can enable one to consider a slightly bigger genoa for light air work while stll being able to manage things when it blows

Running to lines back to cockpit is through mini pulleys a cinch, and if your forestay is good then fitting the plastimo is simple.

My sailmake sneered at plastimo and insisted on selden, but as it was all part of long overdue rerigging package we took the hit
 

srm

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Have a look at the Sailspar system:
Sailspar Continuous Line System : Sailspar
The continuous furling/reefing line is very easy to manage and I have yet to have it snag up or tangle. They will provide a kit including new forestay and detailed instructions for fitting. Above all nice helpful people.

Disclaimer: No connection with the firm. I fitted one to my 32 ft Prout and then two to my current 35ft cutter. Quite a few thousand miles in all types of coastal and ocean weather and no problems.
 

Refueler

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Plastimo 406 is minimum rated or the 608 / 609 is better rated for your boat ... or whatever current version is will fit over no problem and you don't need remove stay / drop mast or anything.

Simple ... easy to maintain ... it works.
 
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VicS

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Plastimo 406 will fit over no problem and you don't need remove stay / drop mast or anything.
406 is for smaller boats (14-20 ft ) . 609 is the current model for boats 6m to 9m

They are fitted in exactly the same way
 

Refueler

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406 is for smaller boats (14-20 ft ) . 609 is the current model for boats 6m to 9m

They are fitted in exactly the same way

See my corrected ... I hit post reply when I had call from client ... before finishing the post ...

The truth is in fact - the only real difference between the two - is the size of drum ... they have same extrusion / plastic liner ... same top bearing ...

I am glad that I am not only one who advises against the 'doughnut' diverter .... useless piece of garbage !!
 

VicS

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See my corrected ... I hit post reply when I had call from client ... before finishing the post ...

The truth is in fact - the only real difference between the two - is the size of drum ... they have same extrusion / plastic liner ... same top bearing ...

I am glad that I am not only one who advises against the 'doughnut' diverter .... useless piece of garbage !!

A lot of people use them. The trouble with yours was that it had been butchered, for unknown reasons, by the previous owner
( add to that of course the incorrect shackle between the halyard and the swivel . . . . I think the swivels are different now and can use an ordinary shackle)
 

Refueler

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A lot of people use them. The trouble with yours was that it had been butchered, for unknown reasons, by the previous owner
( add to that of course the incorrect shackle between the halyard and the swivel . . . . I think the swivels are different now and can use an ordinary shackle)
Where do you get idea that shackle is incorrect ???? That is the correct angled shackle provided by Plastimo. Second - the system is not 'butchered'. The only change was when I cut off a short length of extrusion after hitting an overhead cable.

Here's the shackle and plainly seen to be original Plastimo angled shackle....

EBgHerWl.jpg


The mast block in fact is a remedy that Plastimo used to suggest in the very early days instead of the halyard diverter that is fitted to mast. It does the same job but with a light second line - without halyard being led of at an angle ... also reduces halyard chafe that the fixed diverter has .. the second line has a far better angle to prevent wrap ....

I actually had a pal in UK who's halyard was chafed by the fixed diverter ..

As far as I know after searching Plastimo and sites for replacement extrusion - the shackle is still an angled item. If you try using a straight shackle - it will bind not matter what you do ...
 
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VicS

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Where do you get idea that shackle is incorrect ???? That is the correct angled shackle provided by Plastimo. Second - the system is not 'butchered'. The only change was when I cut off a short length of extrusion after hitting an overhead cable....

As far as I know after searching Plastimo and sites for replacement extrusion - the shackle is still an angled item. If you try using a straight shackle - it will bind not matter what you do ...
I was referring to the problems you posted about many years ago.
One was a straight shackle leading to the top of the swivel becoming unscrewed

Yours ?

1682470615006.png

1682470672663.png

The other was the diverter wheel being made useless as a result of "modifications" having been made to it.

The modern swivels are a different design They look as though they will be OK with a standard straight shackle.


1682469844096.png1682469695842.png
 
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Refueler

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I was referring to the problems you posted about many years ago.
One was a straight shackle leading to the top of the swivel becoming unscrewed

Yours ?

View attachment 155442

View attachment 155443

The other was the diverter wheel being made useless as a result of "modifications" having been made to it.

The modern swivels are a different design They look as though they will be OK with a standard straight shackle.


View attachment 155441View attachment 155440

Blimey - talk about dredging up ancient crap !!

I have great respect for you ... but sorry this ??
 

Geoff Wode

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My Horizon 23 with its 3/4 fractional and self tacking jib was supplied with a 406 as original equipment.

It has the same swivel as in the lower picture. No reason not to believe it’s 30yrs old. Straight shackle.

I was suspicious of it when I bought the boat but, after a service and couple of inexpensive bearings, it works great.

A Seldon might look prettier but I’m not sure I’d gain anything for the money.
 
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Samoddie

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Excuse my ignorance, and thanks for al the advice so far. I am thinking to buy a Plastimo furler and fit over existing forestay. Forestay is fixed to boat with a rigging screw and this screw to a plate of stainless that I think is called a tang. How big is the hole in the furler, so as to be sure I can pass the forestay through the furler. Boat is 350 miles away! Thanks for any help
 

Tranona

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You don't have to touch the tang. It is only the screw end of the forestay that goes through the furler. Have a read of the installation instructions linked to above (post#3) and it will all become clear.
 
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