MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43

[vas]

me again...

had a bit more time this evening so took onboard JFMs suggestion on shifting back the HT, and trying to keep a cleaner side elevation and came up with the following. Again only one tube outside following the salon window slanting further back, this way I have split the HT into three equal portions, the cantiliver at the front being one third of the whole length (OK almost, I'm working on PhotoShop on that so don't expect great accuracy...)
Made more accurate measurements, only need this HT 2.4m long at the most. I think it fits better on the whole Mystere design lines.
There is the option of keeping the stbrd side aft tube short by mounting it on top of the 600X600 box (where again on port side the forward facing tube is mounted), but the port one will have to go all the way down to superstructure. On the plus side I can avoid fitting handrails on port side with this tube in place Probably wont avoid fitting rails on top of the side helm windows though.

Hopefully I'll be on board tomorrow and check mounting points, necessary padding and cable routes. Started working on the mounting details, will post some sketches when they start making sense

cheers

V.

 

[jfm]

I don't love the tube work.

As food for thought howsabout not trying to make it look mystere, but making it a quality addition in a different style. Like a late 20th C glass pyramid in front of a stunningly beautiful 12th century fortress-turned-art-gallery. Here's an example of what you could do (with plate feet attached to the flybridge floor):

An examples is below

 

[vas]

Hm, I see what you mean, but I'm not happy having all support on the ex-rotten and now rebuilt f/b sole. I do believe I've done a good job rebuilding this part of the boat, and the two layers of mat and a few kilos of epoxy will withstand forces, I just don't like the idea of having everything there. I'd like some bracing with angles easing out forces to the whole structure. Mind I don't particularly like the yachtcharterfleet bimini either (is it an sq78???)

How about these two (notice I'm moving all mounts inside, will take some pics tomorrow to show where I believe the problems will be)

next one maybe better? Definitely slimmer with just two supports (60mm dia at least!). I could even shift the forward pointing tube to sit on top of the 600X600box on stbrd side and fit asymmetrically on the end of the helm seat bench on port side. Means it will double as the port side support of the helm bench (which currently sits on an empty ready made plaster pot I found lying around in the boat yard ) In which case I'll setup the two panels across with the beam between them being across the forward mounts of the tubes on the HT.

cheers

V.

 

[vas]

small update,

discussed over the drawings and alternatives with Nikos, he recommends 60mm tube 2mm thick (that thing is MASSIVE!!!) if I decide on a proper timber frame for the HT as the panels + radar are 50kg and the rest could be another 30kg (2.4X2m approx)
He recons we can use 90deg curves at the lower end of the main long tube and a T like layout on the upper support within the superstructure. This way two mounts approx 1m apart will make a strong enough construction for the HT.

Alternatively we can go down to 42mm and again 2mm thick tube if I go for a lighter construction with a ss frame to fit the two panels and possibly two pieces of etalbond (the alloy-rubber-alloy 3mm sandwich I used for lining the aft deck ceiling and sides. This combined with a stretchable lining cloth underneath could make the whole construction light enough to go down in size.
I think I'll try going this way. Further the 60mm tubes cannot be bent or manipulated whereas the 42mm are doable in situ.

Shortened the H/T further going to bring it down to 1.6+0.6+0.1 max 2.3m and drove the main tube over a meter down the superstructure. Lower mount will coinside with the double thickness bulkhead separating the salon with the galley/lower helm which is an extra bonus structurally.

Latest plan looks like this:

cheers

V.

 

[rbcoomer]

Love the concept Vas and could really compliment the boat, but weight and wind forces would bother me! Unless it's collapsible when underway, I'd personally look to construct as light as possible. I think I'd also look at the wires suggested earlier to minimise movement. Had you considered investigating cost of carbon fibre?

 

[jfm]

Latest pic is looking good Vas

I think it has to be 60mm. 42mm would be far too small, even with 2mm wall. You never regret having big diameters - I have 60mm for my side deck hand rails (thinner wall of course). Your whole thing is in effect mounted at only 2 points, being the intersection of the X of the tubes, and that is prone to flex and wobble (which is why, fundamentally, I prefer my sketches because they are more 4 legged table than 2 legged). For that reason imho it has to be 60x2 tube, not 42x2

Will the 90 bend at the bottom, and the T higher up, push the tube out onto the side deck enough to annoy you (bump your shoulder)? I guess not. The 90 degree elbow needs to be tight - welded on, not formed by bending the tube

I think I would still want to make the top in GRP, sandwiched, and compound curved (or faceted - no-one will see or care) for fantastic stiffness. The effort of making the HT itself in panelling is the same effort as making a mould in MDF. Also you can make those angles in your sketch easily, and have the front edge curved like a baseball cap. Would look great. You need to spray paint the mdf mould, put thick gelcoat on and then lay up in GRP is easy as you know. Any imperfections in the finished HY can be fixed by sanding and polishing the gelcoat - easy. You could even make another mould (flat, like a tray) for the "inside" soffit surface, making a 100mm void for lights, speakers, and to hide the tubing and wiring. you could put textured manels on this and little recesses for the lights and speakers, and all sorts. So easy. Then this finished tray is easy to fit inside the main HT moulding, with say a 5mm gap all round so the 2 mouldings are not to tight to each other and a bead of polyurethane can finish the joint and hide the 5mm gap and any other sins. The tubing that will be hidden using this method can then be cheaper box or angle section etc., and welded in sections to create a slight arc, if you want. The top HT moulding can simply be thru bolted to this st/steel. I think/hope this is what BartW does for his HT

I'll then donate 4 x mint fusion white waterproof hifi speakers to fit in the void. They were removed from my flybridge when my HT was fitted:encouragement:

As food for thought, how about this? half the weight on your preferred legs, other half on my legs. 4 legged table, not 2. Much better in terms of creating safety for folks on flybridge, because the aft legs form handholds. All in 60mm tube. I'd make the kink in the front tube by welding in a tight pre-formed curve, but it could be done by bending the tube, or it could be a mitred welded joint if you want to be perfectly faithful to Mystere angular design/look

 

[vas]

Latest pic is looking good Vas

I think it has to be 60mm. 42mm would be far too small, even with 2mm wall. You never regret having big diameters - I have 60mm for my side deck hand rails (thinner wall of course). Your whole thing is in effect mounted at only 2 points, being the intersection of the X of the tubes, and that is prone to flex and wobble (which is why, fundamentally, I prefer my sketches because they are more 4 legged table than 2 legged). For that reason imho it has to be 60x2 tube, not 42x2

Will the 90 bend at the bottom, and the T higher up, push the tube out onto the side deck enough to annoy you (bump your shoulder)? I guess not. The 90 degree elbow needs to be tight - welded on, not formed by bending the tube

thanks John, trying to take onboard your experience on all this...

Following your train of thought, I'd also prefer to err on the stronger side
The 90 bend, is indeed an elbow that will be welded on the tube and polished. Just the elbow means that there will be an approx 40mm gap between the inner side of the tube and the superstructure when placed on the superstructure. I may add another 10-15mm straight pipe to that, although the actual round flange welded on it will be at least 6mm thick so it builds up. Mind there's going to be another slightly larger ss pad inside (as I said mostlikely L shaped) so that the screws hold the lot tight, obviously no countersunk woodscrews to hold all that up there
Yes, as the superstructure is slanted inwards, a 100 or 120mm protrusion wont affect movement on the side deck, it will provide a useful grab when moving back and forth on bumpy seas. So no problem there.

I think I would still want to make the top in GRP, sandwiched, and compound curved (or faceted - no-one will see or care) for fantastic stiffness. The effort of making the HT itself in panelling is the same effort as making a mould in MDF. Also you can make those angles in your sketch easily, and have the front edge curved like a baseball cap. Would look great. You need to spray paint the mdf mould, put thick gelcoat on and then lay up in GRP is easy as you know. Any imperfections in the finished HY can be fixed by sanding and polishing the gelcoat - easy. You could even make another mould (flat, like a tray) for the "inside" soffit surface, making a 100mm void for lights, speakers, and to hide the tubing and wiring. you could put textured manels on this and little recesses for the lights and speakers, and all sorts. So easy. Then this finished tray is easy to fit inside the main HT moulding, with say a 5mm gap all round so the 2 mouldings are not to tight to each other and a bead of polyurethane can finish the joint and hide the 5mm gap and any other sins. The tubing that will be hidden using this method can then be cheaper box or angle section etc., and welded in sections to create a slight arc, if you want. The top HT moulding can simply be thru bolted to this st/steel. I think/hope this is what BartW does for his HT

I see what you mean, but I may go for something even simpler, lighter and equally strong considering the way I want the P/V panels to integrate. I've just started sketching a rectangular frame with some coldformed SS sections that will be the loadbearing structure of the HT. All welded together and either bolted to the 4 legs or better welded there as well.
This will provide the two 1.6X1.0 "holes" for the panels which will fit and bond to the system providing extra rigidity. After that, there will be a very small panel on the front (1.8X0.2m max) with the curvature of the HT frond end and a larger area at the rear where the radar is secured. That could be 1.9X0.7 in the middle) These two panels could be made from this sandwich alloy panel riveted to the ss frame on welded eyes (I wouldn't like to drill through the frame and pop the rivets in there tbh). Then I could have two long iroco pieces on the sides, just bolted on (almost decoratively and creating the "depth" I want and giving a frame for stretching the lining.
Yes on that occasion, I'll form a box section across to fit lights, speakers et al as well as route cables through it.

The only part I haven't "got" on this approach is what material can I use for lining and how can I stretch a material without gluing it on a thin ply (which will add weight...). Ideally I'd like a thin mesh slightly elastic that I can get sewn into the right pattern and either use zippers all around, or some type of rod/hooks combo at the two iroco sides to secure it under the tubular framework.

Such an approach will add minimal weight and give extra stability on the construction and allow for servicing, routing cables et al with minimal effort.
Any ideas on how to achieve that most welcomed. I'll try to do some sketches and post tonight but I'm already knackered today and it's not even six in the afternoon...

I'll then donate 4 x mint fusion white waterproof hifi speakers to fit in the void. They were removed from my flybridge when my HT was fitted:encouragement:

As food for thought, how about this? half the weight on your preferred legs, other half on my legs. 4 legged table, not 2. Much better in terms of creating safety for folks on flybridge, because the aft legs form handholds. All in 60mm tube. I'd make the kink in the front tube by welding in a tight pre-formed curve, but it could be done by bending the tube, or it could be a mitred welded joint if you want to be perfectly faithful to Mystere angular design/look

thanks for the offer and the new sketch, as I said I'm afraid on adding extra stress to the cantilever. Let's sort all the other issues and we'll formulate the final design on the spot next month.

cheers

V.

 

[vas]

slightly stuck (due to lack of time to sketch and think...) with the H/T.
However I sorted out some pics so got some progress to report

First, following the repair of the g/box I called the diver to sort out a proper mooring. Unfortunately down here you rent the space free of anything. Not even a thick chain thrown in, so each one setsup his own mooring with the two lines to the bow.
I do feel that we overdid it with the weight of the anchor which was 90kg and the 18m of chain (80kg) and second smaller anchor (only 30kg) all that mated with a massively thick rope and then continuing with the two bow lines.

Took him half a day to lay everything up properly, check how it settled, pull back to dig them in properly and all that. That's the kit used:

the lot:

main anchor:

keys, ropes and other big things...

secondary anchor hooked at the end of the 18m chain just before the rope and to the west to "hold" the bow in the only (rare) wind that tends to move the boat sideways:

Thanassis the diver, getting ready to meet the mud:

the small fishing boat that helped shift all that metal to the right spot 30 odd meters off the bow. Not the smartest kid in the block, took him 5 goes to get the left-right correct... :

Was anchored with my 15kg Bruce (copy most likely) on 60m of 8mm galv chain. Pulling that up after 4months in the water/mud combo was interesting. The final 10m were nicely tucked in the mud and very clean, the next 40m were awfully dirty, smelly with all sorts of creatures stuck on them. Didn't have the time to brush the chain as it was coming up, so now I have a smelly bow cabin and a messy chain.
Plan is to move to 10mm chain and a 25kg anchor, but there are enough threads on anchors already to discuss if I should really get a Mantus or a Delta
(no I didn't say that, did I?)

On the interior, I've managed to fit a couple of bits in the lower helm and galley. First on the lower helm, I took apart the dash on the stbrd side of the wheel where the GMI10, the GPSMAP751 and various other toggles and controls were installed, removed all bits, removed the lining and underlying foam thing, re shaped it for two GMIs (well actually a GMI and GHC) and a larger plotter the newly acquired (s/h of course) GPSMAP4008. Wasn't easy, but end result looks better than the previous attempt, yes I know if I do it a few more times I could make a living out of it, but that wasn't the point...
Fitted again the bow thruster, windlass, horn, lights, trim tabs controls and just got it to the boat in order to install it. Hopefully pics with it installed at the end of the w/e.

stripped:

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testfit the gauges (on top of the foam undercoat):

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and the end result. Note I've got two GMIs there as I've not yet bought the pilot control, should do soon:

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Also fit the panel that covers all the wiring mess to the stbrd side of the lower helm. That is the secondary el.panel I've installed with all my BMS stuff. Was a bit of a pig as the angle it fits on side bulkhead (between helm and salon) is around 75-78dec, so had to get an iroko piece and shape it on the blum mountpoints. Worked a treat, and I now have a decent finish on this area. Once I fit the dash with the plotter the lower helm will look spot on and complete:

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and a photo with the door open to access the mess :

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Finally on the galley just opposite the helm, I fitted the painted odd shaped cabinet for glassware on top of the tiny sink. Was a bit of a job getting the door mounted properly, added a small magnet to keep it shut on the way and all looks fine now:

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Got to do the bow cabin wardrobe (sort of) cabinet doors (done three need the other two (which obviously are the most difficult of all) and do some proper measurements on the H/T. We shall see if the weather plays ball, there may be some serious progress...


cheers

V.

 

[vas]

morning all,

realised that I've not reported on a few things I've done and since I worked for 10h yesterday and I now feel like I've been run over by a truck, I can only manage keyboard work, so I can at least report

first, finished off with the new lower helm dash design. Moving from a touch screen 7inch to an 8inch with a side keyset was pushing it over the limits. the GPSMAP4008 fitted on the panel, but was fouling on the central steering/engine controls pod. An hour with the chisel were enough to fit it properly:

Having finished with the messy gearbox issues, I've moved to some clean jobs on the cabins. Namely sorting out the cabinet doors on the bow cabin and the various bits of trim missing between hull, desk/bed again on the bow cabin.

The first one took a bit of time to complete, as all was slightly curved, bent, off vertical, you name it and I had to finish off panels lined with vinyl/leatherette with lacquered doors. Eventually got there and end result looks v.good with almost perfect fitting, minimal gaps between oddly shaped panels.

had to add the curved panel that fits on the port side over the bed, which then straightens as it becomes the lower edge of the two cabinet doors. That was fun!

Had to mess about a lot to get the vertically and create planar cabinet doors that had identical gaps between them and the surroundings, on both planes. 5 cabinet doors in total.

The greatest issue was that I used all the available space so didn't want to built cabinets and just come and drop them in place (wouldn't be anything left tbh...)
So had to level/regulate/sort with extra shaped softwood under the lining to get the dimensions compatible. Was a bit hard at times but got there at the end. George cut and lacquered the 5 cabinet doors and I did the rest. End result looks good (not only from far away but also close up) . For the curious, the one cabinet door without the handle isn't because I run out of knob, I've got half a dozen original ones still
It's because behind is the anchor locker access opening and I don't generally want anyone to mess with that area, so I may as well not add a knob

Next job was sorting some small and v.oddly shaped trim panels closing the gap between the slanted hull lined with this alloy sandwich where the portlights are mounted and the vertical curved lined panels over the bed (on port) and the worksurface (on stbrd).

Stbrd side was a two piece job - OK, started with 4pieces of 6mm ply and then joined them in pairs and created the necessary slotting to make sure they keep flush and rest properly on the existing space:

On port side, it was a single panel but turning v.narrow at the aft end, needed delicate handling to avoid breaking it. Worked fine in the end and fitted perfectly in the slot. I need that space to rest my mobile, cameras, books, etc so had to finish it off before the Easter outing (this year Greek orthodox easter is end of April, so plan is to spend a couple of days on the boat around the bay.

Currently started work on the built-in armchair by the bed and I've done a bit of progress. Will report within the week once I get some pieces of softwood cut on George's radial.

cheers

V.

 

[rafiki_]

Nice going Vas, all looking very tidy. I hope your Easter cruise goes well. You deserve a break!

 

[vas]

Nice going Vas, all looking very tidy. I hope your Easter cruise goes well. You deserve a break!

Thanks Paul,

I deserve a few breaks, but I just end up working myself out instead!

reporting progress on two topics and slightly new developments on the HT.

First, remember I once bought on ebay a v.cheap Garmin HD24 radar, brand new in its box, spares or repair.
On arrival, it was obvious that something heavy was stacked on top and the "lid" had two small cracks. Removed the lid, re-secured with an extra washer the rotating thing on it's axle, turned it on, checked it and it worked fine both with the old GPSMAP3006C and the 751. Had to repair the lid though. After a period that I was thinking about it (say a year or two...) deadline was approaching as I'm in the process of preparing the HT where it'll fit. So, searched a bit around and found two guys doing repairs on car bumpers and motorbike fairings and generally all things nice and shiny plastic that breaks easily and costs a lot to buy new...
First one didn't touch it, wanted to know the exact formula of the material in order to use the proper "electrode" and settings. None to be found on the inside of the lid so off to the second guy. He was easy going, saw it, explained what I wanted and did it for 20euro in three hours
Got some proper primer and matching off white in a spray can from the guy doing all the paints for MiToS (and home redecoration btw) and after a couple of hours of sanding with 100 then 200 and then wet 600, I primed and painted the lid. Colour matching is impressively good, smoothness is average as I couldn't care less if the seagulls spot a couple of blemishes on the lid. May have problems if I'm moored next to an 80footer but I can handle that, no worries

note the black weld inside:

primed:

finished:

Inside, I'm left with the lot of headscratching projects to tackle. One of them is the built in armchair by the bed on the bow cabin. It's designed to act as a step to climb up the bed (which is at 70cm high) as well as an armchair to relax in the cooler weather of the cabin and close to the deck port that brings nice cool air at anchor. Works with decent natural lighting if you want to read a book or something (wife is always seen with a nasty looking book on her hands and a notebook keeping notes of the awful things see reads...) as well as with the properly placed led light on the ceiling just above and to the left of it.
Thing is that I was originally planning to use lots of layers of thickish ply cut in shape in plan, glued together and every few of them upholstered, making a stripy thing with stripes of upholstery and others of lacquered ply. That was an awful lot of work to complete and was always trying to simplify it. Now the time was reaching for actually doing something, so I started cutting pieces of cardboard or ply leftovers to shape the main lumbar support together with the armrests on either side. Got the heights and angles right, and eventually got some relaxing enough shape for this section.
initial mock:

quick sketch of the section with slopes to be used on the design of the back:

Seen in the following pics are just that the lumbar/armrests which will be upholstered. Note the "cave" on the stbrd side which will make a nice bookself

Now, next step was to actually decide on the backrest, so change of plans after a few strips of cardboard were tested on the existing curvatures and ended up buying a 4mm sheet of veneered ply. Not marine ply, but cannot be that bothered tbh in there. Chosen on the grounds of grain and colour similarity with the bench surface. Looks v.good!

Made a model of the upper and lower section, cut them from a 50X250 softwood beam, cut two pieces 700X750 off the ply, rolled them a bit and stuck them in bathtub at home and kept them wet for a day. Became soft enough to take them to George's workshop press and press the curvature on the two wet pieces of ply.
Plan is to let them dry like that and on Sat evening, undo them, apply lots of epoxy and press them again.
Monday should be good for test fitting and trimming them in place.
Now, because these really look v.good, I'm thinking of not having a lumbar support and just do two armrests to "close the side gaps, upholster only the armrests and be done with it.
Only need to cut the seat in shape around the armrests and backrest, shape it anatomically a bit and secure it in place (after lacquering of course!)
Looks like this project may end up better than I hoped!


Now the difficult bits. Spend a two hour session measuring, discussing and headscratching with Nikos the ss fabricator regarding the HT.
The slope of the superstructure is such that if I follow the lines up, I'll end up with a HT less than 1.5m in width. Considering that at f/b floor level width is 2.3-2.5m that's not good. Heck, 1.6m is the iroko helm bench!
Further this means anyone up there will be bumping on the side pipes (63mm dia not less!) as they follow the slope up.
Clearly unacceptable, first easy decision was that the rear pipe wont start at side deck level as shown on last HT pics, but will start at f/b deck level, so in a way "inside" and will have a clear outwards slope from aft view (hope I'm making myself clear...) Means none is going to bump onto it!
Extra bonus is that we now have two supports that endup on the concealed ceiling meaning I can easily route cables to either the batteries (on port side) or radar, wind instrument, lights and speakers on the stbrd side. Not sure if VHF coax could be together with the PV supply cables though, else will be quite a few things running on the stbrd side.
Further, by moving this support a bit forward, the cantilever of the HT on the front is reduced.

The other two supports (starting from the front of the salon side windows) feature two supports one inside the salon and the other on the f/b around 1.2m apart and go back to "catch" the HT at it's aft end.
Here, we'll have to think of a way to "open" them so that they don't follow the slope of the sides of the superstructure without making it ugly. Still working on it.
2X250W panels ordered, will be picked up once Nikos recovers from a cold he picked up on Sat while trying to figure how to support and design the HT.

One issue that took a lot of debate (and not solved yet) is whether the HT should slope (on side elevation) to the bow or aft. Note, that's different to how the HT looks when finished up there. I think we'll all agree that it must look like leaning towards the bow with the aft section slightly higher.
Thing is that means all rain water runs to the f/b dash, not particularly smart...
So I'm currently sketching an option where there's a slight kink in the middle so that one panel leans to the bow and the other to the stern meaning that less rain water drains to the f/b dash and I just cover that all up with a properly sloping to the bows piece of oiled iroko.

Anyway, posting the new pic and will probably update/ask questions over the w/e
Plan is to order the tubing and early next week come and mock the main supports on the spot. Finalize at the workshop, polish bring them onboard and fit them. Then measure the final size of the HT lid, construct it around the two panels, fit them and lift them in place (dodgy part, probably Dimitris - the guy building the wooden open boat - will have to come with one of his cranes to help)

cheers

V.

 

[vas]

developments in various projects to report, so another update from me.

First great progress in the bow cabin armchair which is taking form.
Pressed the two 4mm ply sheets with epoxy:

most difficult stage was marking and forming the square piece into a complex shape that would fit in the area:

even had to trim the 15mm lacquered ply of the worktop to the right shape and slopes to fit the back:

and that's the final shape of the back (with all the remains of the 50odd cuts I had to do to get it right without butchering it...

back from George's workshop, lacquered and epoxied in place:

and with the armrest shaped out of various leftovers

On the salon, finally finished off with the corner sofa and bolted it down in place after numerous attempts at finding the ideal spot (and remembering to route all the cables through first...)

fixed sofa piece with sliding seating in order to convert into a double bed

the "lid" seat that slides on the frame:

sorting out trim:

view of the whole salon arrangement (sans cushions which will be ordered tomorrow if the price I hear is acceptable)

on stbrd side the new 2seater in the place of the old cabinets, much more useful and a lovely storing space underneath for all my tools Waiting for the backrest to be painted before I bolt on the top strip, the backrest will be folding down to provide access to more storage behind it

and an odd one for MapisM or other italian speaking forumites
following pic shows a PELE written on a piece of ply that was upholstered and I removed the old one to fit fresh leatherette. What does that mean (other than the famous football player that is)?

Finally managed to decide where to fit the ss letters and using 1.5mm double sided tape prepared and placed the letters MiToS. Should now do the # but believe me it's hard work even deciding and marking the spot and the way the letters flow with all the curves and unbalanced items around there.

I like the following pic most, but with this shinny ss it takes some trying to get a decent angle and goodlooking reflections.

cheers

V.

 

[petem]

Letters look great Vas, good job!

 

[alt]

You're one seriously skilled person, respect!

 

[MapisM]

and an odd one for MapisM or other italian speaking forumites
following pic shows a PELE written on a piece of ply that was upholstered and I removed the old one to fit fresh leatherette. What does that mean (other than the famous football player that is)?

Sorry Vas, but I can't for the life of me think of what PELE can mean.
And not only in that context, but also in general, because it's a word that doesn't mean anything in IT.
Maybe it was an acronym of some sort, but I can't think of a meaningful one.
Incidentally, PELLE (with a double L) means leather in IT, which could mean that the ply bit had to be covered in leather.
But for an IT mother tongue speaker, writing PELLE with a single L would be a pretty bad mistake, unlikely to be made even by a basic worker...

PS: that aside, chapeau (as always) to your skills and commitment! :encouragement:

 

[longjohnsilver]

Love those letters Vas, and that armchair looks to be a work of art. When will you consider the boat to have been finished?

 

[Whitelighter]

Lovely work vas. Have been looking forward to the interior work for the last 3 years so in excited to see it coming together.

Babe look great, everything looks great. Top job.

 

[rafiki_]

Thanks for the update Vas. Interior coming together nicely. I'm in the MM camp on Pele, I think leather spelt incorrectly, but as you know, sono non Italiano. Love the lettering, looks very special.

 

[KevB]

Lovely work as usual Vas. re the lettering, to my eyes the S looks like it could do with the top leaning left a bit so it's standing more upright or is it that way by design

 

[vas]

Letters look great Vas, good job!

thanks Pete,

don't forget you helped a lot at the time, it's just almost a year later that I'm fitting them. I'll sent you a few nice pics for your website when done and once I sort out a tiny bit of double sided tape on the "saddle" of M...

You're one seriously skilled person, respect!

that's the polite way of saying to someone that he's a nutter or too sad, but I've heard it so many times that I'll accept that

Sorry Vas, but I can't for the life of me think of what PELE can mean.
And not only in that context, but also in general, because it's a word that doesn't mean anything in IT.
Maybe it was an acronym of some sort, but I can't think of a meaningful one.
Incidentally, PELLE (with a double L) means leather in IT, which could mean that the ply bit had to be covered in leather.
But for an IT mother tongue speaker, writing PELLE with a single L would be a pretty bad mistake, unlikely to be made even by a basic worker...

PS: that aside, chapeau (as always) to your skills and commitment! :encouragement:

Thanks for the update Vas. Interior coming together nicely. I'm in the MM camp on Pele, I think leather spelt incorrectly, but as you know, sono non Italiano. Love the lettering, looks very special.

P&P thanks for the comments and encouragement,

when I was stripping all factory upholstery and underlying 3-4mm foam, I've come across various notes, marks and a number of interesting pencil drawn sketches. I've photographed all of them, only they are spread in 5yrs and 6K pics so will take a while to collect them all for a fun 70ies making off post

Love those letters Vas, and that armchair looks to be a work of art. When will you consider the boat to have been finished?

FWIW, the letters are based on JFMs photos of the Antibes Mystere out of which I traced over in AutoCAD and recreated the letters I wanted to make MiToS up. Hard work but makes it closer to the 70ies roots and especially as I have a couple of smaller sized ss Mysteres to stick on the sides by the Nav lights (just don't hold your breath for placing them anytime soon!)

Armchair has indeed taken way too much time (even for my standards) in designing, and just a lot of time in creating. It's the distance between an idea and a sketch and the builtable end result as always..
To answer your Q, never; will be a sad day when I turn to wife and say "ok, MiToS finished" she should be v.worried...

Lovely work vas. Have been looking forward to the interior work for the last 3 years so in excited to see it coming together.

Babe look great, everything looks great. Top job.

thanks Jez, looking forward to more pics of Seralia!

Lovely work as usual Vas. re the lettering, to my eyes the S looks like it could do with the top leaning left a bit so it's standing more upright or is it that way by design

Kev, it is a bit of an odd S that. You may be right but it was making a greater contrast to the O next to it and didn't like it. Problem was that I forgot to print the Photoshop file before sticking them on, so was going by the eye. Sitting on the bathing platform, sticking them, going out on the dock to see what I've done and back in again. At some point I touch-stuck the T around 2deg slanted to stbrd. All my fears that letters would become unstuck and fall in the sea were dismissed after I struggled for 5 mins with chisels, screwdrivers, blades, et al to pull half of it out...

Easter Sunday for us down here this Sunday, so a bit more time to work on various projects as well as order/fit carpet for the salon and order cushions for the sofas.

cheers

V.