Sol68
Member
Kalo Pasxa Vas !
MiToS re-built/fit- versilcraft Mystery43
- Thread starter vas
- Start date
vas
Well-known member
that's Greek for happy Easter
you too Sol68!
right, a month after last post and have a few jobs to report on.
First the famous armchair on the bow cabin is complete, just need to uphoster the seat ply.
Following my previous posts, I was slightly stuck on the handrest upholstering due to the prism section that needed some ingenuity. My attempts at employing a thin strip of ply that would wrap up the free end of the triedron corner, didn't work very well so eventually turned to my local tailor who after 10mins of explaining sew the corner I wanted in a minute or two (and for free
)So piece done:
edgestrip of the bed done:
next one was tricky as I needed to cover and stretch a non-stretch piece of leatherette over a double curvature, not easy, not 100% perfect, but definitely acceptable:
Next hurdle was what happens under the seat, was a dodgy spot with floor/hull side/frames/etc all meeting together in a slight mess. So I opted for a raised "tray" creating a bit of an easy access storing spot:
and the final article. I'm happy to report that on Sat after finishing it off, was too knackered that with the hatch open, had a nice half hour afternoon siesta. Trully enjoyed it, well pleased with myself
cheers
V.
rafiki_
Well-known member
Another fantastic job Vas. Hard earned siesta!
vas
Well-known member
indeed Paul!
now, the last big thing in my endless to-do list before the summer is building a hardtop with two solar panels on it and making sure it doesn't look like a frame and panels...
Turns out it's much more difficult than I thought and although I've been thinking and sketching regularly it's just today that I reached a design (along the lines of the last one posted) that is reasonably detailed and builtable (says me!)
Did a 3D model of the previous iteration, ok, same concept, different sections and detailing) to feel the space and how it looks from different angles and I'm reasonably happy, not over the moon, but happy.
Structurally, there are 2 X braced 2inch 40S (I think, maybe 10S) pipes secured the way it's shown, the long one on two spots on the superstructure, the short upright one stands on the f/b deck. Initially, the plan was to have a ss frame bolted on top of these braces and the 2 panels dropped in place on the spot.
Another objective was to bolt two iroko thin(ish) slats on the long sides to cover up all this inox (and minimise the need for polishing it...)
Main two issues with this design were:
- joints between pipes coming up and solar panel frames, angles were all over the place, axes the same, generally a mess
- bow curved ending is a PITA, easy to lasercut the piece, difficult to do a decent job welding a vertical (or slanted) strip following the curvature to make it safer for everyone onboard and better in the eye.
- Concern that the radar at the back will be rather wobbly secured with two pipes at that angle
- Weight of the whole thing!
Facts are:
2X280W panels (iirc) 1.6X0.99X0.04m and 18kg each
Garmin GMR24HD 9kg
So 50kg only for the hardware and cables no mention on the actual construction capable of supporting all that without moving about all over the place!
First attempt was at checking foams and methods of constructing the panels' frame out of foam and GRP. Got some samples of foam from the local company, tried it and established that unless I use chopped strand cloth my corners will be awful and wrap around abysmal. Getting enough to make it acceptable meant that weight would be closing on the SS, so dropped this approach.
Trying to find a way to strengthen the radar mount I came up with the idea of having a main central box section that goes from bow to stern (sideview is an asymmetrical L just under 3m long).
This led to the approach of NOT having a full frame for the panels, but have the 2 pipe braces end on this backbone making it more robust and secure.
One thing led to the other and the new (for today at least
) structural idea is 3 cold formed sections in most likely 2mm SS sheet running aft to bow with the cross braced pipes welded on them.Aft of the panels I really don't need anything, panels will be happy just secured on the two long sides (with M4 through bolts and nuts)
On the front though I need some shade for the helm. Thought long and hard and came up with a solution I'm going to regret but should look v. cool. Slanted strips of iroko secured on a central piece and all that coming and fitting on properly setup slats on the main box section. Each piece of iroko (around 5x45mm in section) will be cantilevered on the port and stbrd side. Should be able to remove it with 4 screws and keep it indoors to avoid scrapping and varnishing every year
So, the following photo of the A4 I got all the details on sort of explains (or confuses...) the whole idea. Will try to find some time before the w/e to draft it in AutoCAD and get some allround renderings in order to be able to discuss it in detail with Nikos the ss fabricator.
Having dimensioned the 3 main cold formed sheet sections I went ahead and estimated the weight of the whole lot, cannot say I'm overly happy, so any comments welcomed!
Assuming 7800kg/m3 for an average SS we get:
Two side sections 20kg
Central section 16kg
pipes 2inch and approx 18m (3X6m lengths) (from http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ansi-stainless-steel-pipes-d_247.html )
if 40S approx 4mm wall thickness 98kg
if 10S approx 2.7mm wall 70kg
if 5S approx 1.65mm wall 43kg
I'd also add another 10kg for the shading slats on the front and the two iroko sides
Now, with a v. heavy duty 40S pipework, whole Hard top with panels, radar and cabling/speakers/lights/antennas will be dangerously close to 200kg!
going down to 10S pipes 2.7mm wall seems rather thick to me tbh! we are down to almost 150kg
I'm cheating a bit as these weights COG are not up at the H/T elevation but a good 60-70cm below, so say 1.3m above f/b level, which indeed means two extra persons on the f/b, cannot be that bad, can it?
Would like to hear comments on weight and possible effects, I feel it will make bugger all difference to the 8-9K kg boat (yes, haven't got a clue how heavy she is, will measure the volume of the hull below the W/L and get a decent estimate.)
as always all opinions welcomed!
cheers
V.
vas
Well-known member
So, the following photo of the A4 I got all the details on sort of explains (or confuses...) the whole idea. Will try to find some time before the w/e to draft it in AutoCAD and get some allround renderings in order to be able to discuss it in detail with Nikos the ss fabricator.
Having dimensioned the 3 main cold formed sheet sections I went ahead and estimated the weight of the whole lot, cannot say I'm overly happy, so any comments welcomed!
Assuming 7800kg/m3 for an average SS we get:
Two side sections 20kg
Central section 16kg
pipes 2inch and approx 18m (3X6m lengths) (from http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ansi-stainless-steel-pipes-d_247.html )
if 40S approx 4mm wall thickness 98kg
if 10S approx 2.7mm wall 70kg
if 5S approx 1.65mm wall 43kg
I'd also add another 10kg for the shading slats on the front and the two iroko sides
Now, with a v. heavy duty 40S pipework, whole Hard top with panels, radar and cabling/speakers/lights/antennas will be dangerously close to 200kg!
going down to 10S pipes 2.7mm wall seems rather thick to me tbh! we are down to almost 150kg
I'm cheating a bit as these weights COG are not up at the H/T elevation but a good 60-70cm below, so say 1.3m above f/b level, which indeed means two extra persons on the f/b, cannot be that bad, can it?
Would like to hear comments on weight and possible effects, I feel it will make bugger all difference to the 8-9K kg boat (yes, haven't got a clue how heavy she is, will measure the volume of the hull below the W/L and get a decent estimate.)
as always all opinions welcomed!
cheers
V.
probably posted at a time most were out enjoying the summer
and wont come back to that as I've changed to design yet again and haven't got time to model it in AutoCAD atm.Just wanted to report on a few smallish projects and the fact that MiToS is now out of the water for the annual maintenance and a few additions that didn't make it on the 4yr rebuilt...
So,
salon cabinet work and upholstering finished. Even managed after numerous visits to the upholsterer to get the right shape, thickness and firmness on the seat and back foam. All bits ordered and being cut/tested/sewn this week. Should be back onboard early next week ready for relaunch.
Next couple of pics show samples for materials, carpet and cushions upholstery. Chose a natural material hardwearing for the salon and cabin corridor carpet that matches nicely with the grey lacquered cabinets and saw accidentally in the samples i picked from the shop that there was a bamboo thing strips less than 20mm wide that looked v.good on the sample. So I ordered enough to cover the galley and lower helm floor as well as the two kids cabins.
Carpet fitting is not my strong point, but I managed a decent job and sent all the pieces to be edged (how do you really call that???) professionally.
Bamboo fitting on a very complex shape is no fun, decided to do it in pieces after making a decent template and took me inx of 10h to do the galley-lower helm
ignore the reds and blues, that was wife's contribution to the finishing touches last summer. Makes for nice contrast on the following pics ;D
Another job started (not yet finished) is sanding and reoiling/varnishing the 200mm wide 25mm thick iroko toerail all around MiToS, not a 2h job, but after 6h we are down to 120grit, they look nice and smooth and I'm planning to go up to 320grit before oiling.
Awtrol (sp?) which I used last year was disappointing. Maybe it had to do with iroko being new and not sanding very well (lack of time...) but I'm going to try a danish oil type of thing which I used on the f/b iroko pieces.
Regarding the bathing platform, it has performed flawlessly BUT and it's a big but I didn't fit a ladder to climb up from the sea. Ended up dropping the passerelle all the way down and climbing from there (not easy, wife not at all happy about that)
So got a ss boxed telescopic ladder I was given by a friend with a P410 (obviously from one of his previous boats....) and after a bit of surgery managed to fit it.
Again there some may remember that teak slats used on the four panels were nice and tight when teak was dry but bulged up to 30mm in the middle when teak was properly wet (after a ride or simply by the rain!)
So all panels out, three slats removed and reduced by 4mm each all to be refit this evening.
Also I noticed a small leak from the main ram of the passarelle, so off it went to the machinist to replace all seals (not a job I can tackle atm with all work load...)
More pics to follow as well as pics of the 10month hot Med marina growth (impressive on the metal parts!)
cheers
V.
KevB
Active member
Amazing progress still. I love the updates.
vas
Well-known member
stranded at home with back pain after the intense work of the last 10days to get MiToS back in the water, so time for an update!
First, finishing off with some pics the bathing platform ladder I mentioned on previous post:
It looks like a semi-custom thing with a normal telescopic ladder enclosed in a SS box. Cannot say it slides in and out extremely smoothly, but i'm quite sure it will be OK and definitely better than sliding up the dunk passarelle... Mind, placement helps as there are two slots/grips on the platform and then you can easily grab the 30mm SS tube of the stairs to the aft deck.
Now, fouling. Remember MiToS was in the water 1st of September, used not massively up till October when the port gearbox failed and then was moored in Volos port till two weeks ago. Growth was impressive. Just for the record:
hull was epoxied with a custom recipe of copper mix completely diy and as an experiment. The point being, if it didn't work I'd have a decent key to go to proper coppercoat.
Shafts where left polished
Propellers where polished and then primed and antifouled (one with a Jotun whatnot and the other with something else)
P brackets as propellers
trim tabs were coated the same way the hull was (no primer on the ss tabs though)
rudders were also coated with copper epoxy (but weren't SS)
Note the very inconsistant fouling of the hull. Clean patches and heavily fouled ones. Hypothesis is that it had to do with my mixing and testing in recipe (quantity of copper powder in epoxy) as well the inconsistant application from the various helpers that happily came but got bored after the first 20mins... Never again.
Final issue that was clearer once hull was jetwashed was the lack of decent abrasion to energize the copper. Did a whole session on the non green parts of the hull for good measure and will see how it goes
next pic is a clear example aft section nice and clean, next days work crappy...
Now, spot the lumishore if you can!
or the hull anode!
yes it is the SS trim tab on the left and top of the pic that lost all it's copper based a/f coating on the first day testing...
interesting growth on the propeller and shaft:
finally the ss tubes supporting the bathing platform weren't treated as I thought this would be a nice way to check growth and mark where to a/f them to...
If the water was clean, I could easily make a couple of servings with all the mussels and other edible things off the metalwork
Mind water temps were HIGH, like 28 throughout Sept-Oct never below 19 March iirc and then up again. Waters in the port are rather still and fouling is generally v.high.
Note propellers were properly antifouled with decent brands (no diy) and even managed to keep their a/f on, but growth was v.impressive.
Running out of pics, so enough for today, got a few more things to report over the next few days regarding anode wear, cleaning and new treatment as well as interior finishing touches.
cheers
V.
First, finishing off with some pics the bathing platform ladder I mentioned on previous post:
It looks like a semi-custom thing with a normal telescopic ladder enclosed in a SS box. Cannot say it slides in and out extremely smoothly, but i'm quite sure it will be OK and definitely better than sliding up the dunk passarelle... Mind, placement helps as there are two slots/grips on the platform and then you can easily grab the 30mm SS tube of the stairs to the aft deck.
Now, fouling. Remember MiToS was in the water 1st of September, used not massively up till October when the port gearbox failed and then was moored in Volos port till two weeks ago. Growth was impressive. Just for the record:
hull was epoxied with a custom recipe of copper mix completely diy and as an experiment. The point being, if it didn't work I'd have a decent key to go to proper coppercoat.
Shafts where left polished
Propellers where polished and then primed and antifouled (one with a Jotun whatnot and the other with something else)
P brackets as propellers
trim tabs were coated the same way the hull was (no primer on the ss tabs though)
rudders were also coated with copper epoxy (but weren't SS)
Note the very inconsistant fouling of the hull. Clean patches and heavily fouled ones. Hypothesis is that it had to do with my mixing and testing in recipe (quantity of copper powder in epoxy) as well the inconsistant application from the various helpers that happily came but got bored after the first 20mins... Never again.
Final issue that was clearer once hull was jetwashed was the lack of decent abrasion to energize the copper. Did a whole session on the non green parts of the hull for good measure and will see how it goes
next pic is a clear example aft section nice and clean, next days work crappy...
Now, spot the lumishore if you can!
or the hull anode!
yes it is the SS trim tab on the left and top of the pic that lost all it's copper based a/f coating on the first day testing...
interesting growth on the propeller and shaft:
finally the ss tubes supporting the bathing platform weren't treated as I thought this would be a nice way to check growth and mark where to a/f them to...
If the water was clean, I could easily make a couple of servings with all the mussels and other edible things off the metalwork
Mind water temps were HIGH, like 28 throughout Sept-Oct never below 19 March iirc and then up again. Waters in the port are rather still and fouling is generally v.high.
Note propellers were properly antifouled with decent brands (no diy) and even managed to keep their a/f on, but growth was v.impressive.
Running out of pics, so enough for today, got a few more things to report over the next few days regarding anode wear, cleaning and new treatment as well as interior finishing touches.
cheers
V.
rafiki_
Well-known member
Looks like you could open a crustation stall with that lot Vas. Have to feel sorry for MiToS dragging it all around ��
vas
Well-known member
good morning all,
apologies for the lack of updates, not that there are none, just a bit lazy and too busy with real work or vacations to post, so before going down to the boat for a morning session of tidying up and cleaning, thought I'll try to at least close the pre summer works.
So after a jetwash session MiToS bum looked like this:
Not impressed tbh, as copper based a/f cleaned ok, but would flake off the trim tabs (was just an experiment and wasn't too bothered)
I was pissed off with the prop a/f which remained there and let lost of growth to infest the props.
It was also interesting to see the anode condition as transom anodes on new checked wiring are not worn at all:
trim tabs fully worn (at the bottom of the pic) rudder ones just fine:
shaft anodes shafted...
All replaced (bar the transom ones) and larger fitted on the trim tabs although I think that was the case of the ss bathing platform supports welded and bonded to the trim tabs increasing the affected area. We shall see.
Last job before getting MiToS back in the water was the new metal a/f. Used two products Velox on the trim tabs and (stupidly) TKwhatever spray on the props and shafts.
Velox with its own primer is still there and has minimal growth. Same cannot be said for the TK spray as the bronze props are full of this tubeworm thing. In next post i'll upload a video I took a few weeks after launch with condition of hull from my cheap and cheerful SJCAM
Cleaning the props involved aqua fuorte (HCL, I think 5%) and small angle grinder with a hard foamy thick disk (3 of them...)
Took son two sessions of almost an hour each to clean the props 6 weeks later at 28C waters, nice!
Plan for next year is Velox on all the metals and most likely nothing but a serious polish on the props. Then find a decent plastic scrapper on a long neutral buoyancy stick to clean the props without resorting to diving 10 times for each blade...
Now this update brings us to the beginning of July with MiToS back in the water!
cheers
V.
apologies for the lack of updates, not that there are none, just a bit lazy and too busy with real work or vacations to post, so before going down to the boat for a morning session of tidying up and cleaning, thought I'll try to at least close the pre summer works.
So after a jetwash session MiToS bum looked like this:
Not impressed tbh, as copper based a/f cleaned ok, but would flake off the trim tabs (was just an experiment and wasn't too bothered)
I was pissed off with the prop a/f which remained there and let lost of growth to infest the props.
It was also interesting to see the anode condition as transom anodes on new checked wiring are not worn at all:
trim tabs fully worn (at the bottom of the pic) rudder ones just fine:
shaft anodes shafted...
All replaced (bar the transom ones) and larger fitted on the trim tabs although I think that was the case of the ss bathing platform supports welded and bonded to the trim tabs increasing the affected area. We shall see.
Last job before getting MiToS back in the water was the new metal a/f. Used two products Velox on the trim tabs and (stupidly) TKwhatever spray on the props and shafts.
Velox with its own primer is still there and has minimal growth. Same cannot be said for the TK spray as the bronze props are full of this tubeworm thing. In next post i'll upload a video I took a few weeks after launch with condition of hull from my cheap and cheerful SJCAM
Cleaning the props involved aqua fuorte (HCL, I think 5%) and small angle grinder with a hard foamy thick disk (3 of them...)
Took son two sessions of almost an hour each to clean the props 6 weeks later at 28C waters, nice!
Plan for next year is Velox on all the metals and most likely nothing but a serious polish on the props. Then find a decent plastic scrapper on a long neutral buoyancy stick to clean the props without resorting to diving 10 times for each blade...
Now this update brings us to the beginning of July with MiToS back in the water!
cheers
V.
rafiki_
Well-known member
I too have been disappointed with the TK a/f Vas. Tube worm seemingly loves the stuff, and sticks "like a sailor to your sister......".
Off out today to see what impact a couple of weeks of decent weather has had on Rafiki's speed. ��
Off out today to see what impact a couple of weeks of decent weather has had on Rafiki's speed. ��
kashurst
Well-known member
that´s a serious amount of fizzing on your anodes. Do you leave the boat connected to shore power? If so it might be worth getting a galvanic isolator and velox or equivalent all the underwater metal bits as well.
I find velox a bit disapointing too, I did use propspeed for a few years and it does seem better, but once the fuzzies get a hold over the winter its a pig to get it all off again.
I find velox a bit disapointing too, I did use propspeed for a few years and it does seem better, but once the fuzzies get a hold over the winter its a pig to get it all off again.
vas
Well-known member
if you were down here, with a good couple of weeks you might not be able to plane
MiToS is connected to shore power only when on the hard. It wasn't connected for a single minute while in the water for these 10months.
Shafts weren't antifouled and so was all the metalwork supporting the bathing platform.
Wear is consistant with that bare metal. Rudders' anodes were fine but rudders were epoxied with copper and strangely it's still there and left it out of curioslity.
Eventually I'll get a system that will work for Volos port, or at least know how to deal with it
I also found removing a/f together with various vegetation stuck on them a real pain, so also considering the clear and highly polished approach for the props. We shall see.
cheers
V.
rafiki_
Well-known member
if you were down here, with a good couple of weeks you might not be able to plane
Rafiki was quite frisky today. A month on the Solent hasn't slowed her ��
vas
Well-known member
apologies, looks like I'm down to one post per month...
holiday today, rainy, so time for an belated update.
We are up to beginning of July status with MiToS ready to be back in the water.
Before doing so, I removed the passarelle ram which was leaking and creating an annoying darker patch on the teak platform. Off it went, puzzled how the bleeding thing dismantles, couldn't find a way, so gave it alltogether to the guy that did the final assembly of the gearbox. Spyros explained that in order to change the seals one has to actually cut on the opposite side (top side where the piston comes out), get the new seals in place and then reweld the cap, grind it in order to slide the SS cover/jacket on. Which he did successfully, so no leaks anymore.
As part of the cleaning and taking care of the passerelle, I tried sand down (slightly!) the laminate which is badly worn and doesn't look like it can serve much longer, so probably to replace with real iroko or teak during winter
Finally fitted the three steps on the bathing platform to aft deck ladder:
On the salon, the upholstery was finished and delivered:
Carpet was also finished and back in place, so apart from a strip of the sliding part of the sofa that's not upholstered (still got the piece on board but not had the time or inclination to do it...) salon is ready:
Stern view on the dock (not much different now other than the mercury 9.9 on the 2.7m valiant rib I got on loan off a friend...)
quite a few more things to report. Will try and post more often.
cheers
V.
holiday today, rainy, so time for an belated update.
We are up to beginning of July status with MiToS ready to be back in the water.
Before doing so, I removed the passarelle ram which was leaking and creating an annoying darker patch on the teak platform. Off it went, puzzled how the bleeding thing dismantles, couldn't find a way, so gave it alltogether to the guy that did the final assembly of the gearbox. Spyros explained that in order to change the seals one has to actually cut on the opposite side (top side where the piston comes out), get the new seals in place and then reweld the cap, grind it in order to slide the SS cover/jacket on. Which he did successfully, so no leaks anymore.
As part of the cleaning and taking care of the passerelle, I tried sand down (slightly!) the laminate which is badly worn and doesn't look like it can serve much longer, so probably to replace with real iroko or teak during winter
Finally fitted the three steps on the bathing platform to aft deck ladder:
On the salon, the upholstery was finished and delivered:
Carpet was also finished and back in place, so apart from a strip of the sliding part of the sofa that's not upholstered (still got the piece on board but not had the time or inclination to do it...) salon is ready:
Stern view on the dock (not much different now other than the mercury 9.9 on the 2.7m valiant rib I got on loan off a friend...)
quite a few more things to report. Will try and post more often.
cheers
V.
MystereMarcus
Member
Stunning as always Vas.
rafiki_
Well-known member
Welcome back Vas. The passerelle seal fix sounds real hassle. Clearly not meant to be serviced. Good to see the saloon in all its glory. Nice job.
waynes world
Well-known member
Just lovin Vas , look bloody great. So would you say it has been worht it, you have been at it for some time now. I can one HUGE benefit you have, the weather, over here it is not the best for this kind of work, i think i would take a lot longer to get done what you have, be to tempted to get onboard and chill out to often.
Me i spend time with a Bovril contemplating.
Awsome boat you have
Wolly
, look bloody great. So would you say it has been worht it, you have been at it for some time now. I can one HUGE benefit you have, the weather, over here it is not the best for this kind of work, i think i would take a lot longer to get done what you have, be to tempted to get onboard and chill out to often. Me i spend time with a Bovril contemplating.
Awsome boat you have
Wolly
Hardmy
Member
Hi Vas,
Your fine vessel looks so amazing! Such a pleasure to get regular updates about the saga.
I understand that this year you remained in the Volos area. What about an extensive Dodecanese cruise with lots of pics ;-) Tell us about your cruising intentions of next year!
Cheers,
V
Your fine vessel looks so amazing! Such a pleasure to get regular updates about the saga.
I understand that this year you remained in the Volos area. What about an extensive Dodecanese cruise with lots of pics ;-) Tell us about your cruising intentions of next year!
Cheers,
V
petem
Well-known member
Vas, did you ever get your turbos fixed?
vas
Well-known member
happy new year all, hope it turns out better than 2016 which wasn't overall impressive (not in boating terms...)
I again have to apologise and I have to try much harder as I'll soon loose the plot of what I've posted and whatnot. I'll try my best but cannot promise much atm
Saloon looks good on these pics, you don't want to see it now with various boxes of tools spread on the carpet...
thanks, missed your updates got to catch up soon! Yes, weather is much kinder down here, except that they predict -12C on Sat in Volos hope their predictions are as accurate as your own met office ones and we get glorious sunshine like today's 12C!
V.,
due to work commitments it looks like 2017 will be again around here, maybe a cross to the east side of the Aegean. As a I occasionally joke to foreign friends, I'm half lesbian so would be nice to go to Mitilini (my mom was born and brought up there and my last visit to the isle was 45yrs ago), the other half is cretan (for all it matters but I'm going there regularly due to wife being from there as well)
Dodecanese, I'd expect to be able to do it once the 16 and 15 year olds finish high school, till then it will be studying and studying and studying a bit more to get to the uni...
Cyclades would be slightly easier but you got to get the winds right else it's really no fun at all as I realized spending a week in Serifos this year (not with MiToS) Anyway, I owe an extensive summer report at some point, just not now, i'd rather fill in bits on the rebuilt in order to catch up.
Pete, was the port one only, sandblasted/dechoked, cleaned, balanced and re bushed and assembled for 150euro iirc. Works fine and with the new SS elbows shouldn't have the same issues again.
Right, a bit of catching up to do now!
So we are at July, MiToS back in the water and me trying to setup the chaincounter project working on the Garmin GMI10s Having done all the testing and programming at home it was time to install it on board. In order to do so, I had to setup the sensor on the Lofrans Tigres windlass. Not the easiest of tasks, but not impossible and definitely better if you use a 10mm gypsy (currently on 8mm which is smaller and thinner making things more difficult) So bought a standard windlass sensor kit for 30euro iirc and stealing ideas from my friends P45 with the same windlass and same sensor, I did the installation in an afternoon. Thankfully I had a clear path for the cable with already a sensor cable through all the upholstery waiting to be connected:
First two pics are the P45 installation on a 10mm gypsy:
here is the dismantled back cover of the windlass with the exact spot for drilling, securing and fitting the base for the sensor:
Here is the elbow and the actual sensor in place:
all back in place, you can also see the magnet on the gypsy and the new anchor on the background, more in a mo:
Following the lack of confidence I had with my 15kg bruce copy, and after a hilarious incident with a couple of friends on board MiToS and me on the dingy (without the outboard) paddling like crazy to catch MiToS that was dragging its anchor and luckily going towards the middle of the bay (and not to the rocks...) I decided to change anchor.
I decided not to go for a Rocna or Delta and bought the largest Mantus I could fit on the bow roller and I could persuade myself to pay for, that's 20kg.
Looks rather nice on the bow roller, comes up and releases without any issues and didn't even bother fitting a swivel as yet. I did fit a small 15cm dia red buoy (stole the idea from a knowledgeable poster -forget his nick now, sorry) as it helps see where the anchor is on the seabed (digs nicely and completely in the typical sandy seabed around here). Probably need to shorten the line, we shall see.
Needless to say it's the first time with MiToS that I drop the anchor, reverse and the boat actually hooks and comes to an abrupt stop, the bruce would just shift on the sand. Of course that's with (what I call) reasonable scopes, with the Mantus there's no need to throw 50m of chain on 5m of water in order to feel safe... OK, don't want to start another anchor war, just happy with the new anchor and feel more relaxed at night on anchor.
For the record, the chaincounter worked erratically initially, I eventually improved it a bit, but needs some s/w finetuning (signal bouncing...) that I didn't have the time to do as I brought the whole arduino box back home to add more features! Promise I'll do it by the summer and clear up the code for whoever wants to have a go. Again there's a thread somewhere on that, I'll update it in due course.
Since on the main two multiday trips we managed we had 4 and 5 teens respectively, it was obvious that saloon shading/curtains/whatever was necessary as that's where they spend most of the time when not messing about in the water... Had a go at trying and actually selecting blackout fabrics for them but was stuck on hanging and sliding issues so project postponed for like now (and I'm still stuck on that) Problem is that superstructure at the sides is slanted (approx 10deg) which means I cannot use normal curtain rails on top as the curtain will be fouling your head when seated. So need to devise a smart way of keeping the curtain out of the way and close to the lower end of the window. Have some ideas with a stretched ss thin wire and hidden clips but need to do some testing with the guy that did the upholstery for the sofas. Colours will be one of these:
Reaching the 20pic limit, so more to follow once I sort out pics and get them ready.
cheers
V.
I again have to apologise and I have to try much harder as I'll soon loose the plot of what I've posted and whatnot. I'll try my best but cannot promise much atm
thanks Marcus, would be nice to have a look at a few pics of your Mystere, no?
Passerelle fix turns out to not be exactly right, as over the last couple of months I've found it down on more than three occasions and had to add oil to the passerelle tank. Since I have another much more intense back pain I cannot bend and start checking about, so will do as soon as I've recovered fully.
Saloon looks good on these pics, you don't want to see it now with various boxes of tools spread on the carpet...
Just lovin Vas
Me i spend time with a Bovril contemplating.
Awsome boat you have
Wolly
thanks, missed your updates got to catch up soon! Yes, weather is much kinder down here, except that they predict -12C on Sat in Volos
hope their predictions are as accurate as your own met office ones and we get glorious sunshine like today's 12C! V.,
due to work commitments it looks like 2017 will be again around here, maybe a cross to the east side of the Aegean. As a I occasionally joke to foreign friends, I'm half lesbian so would be nice to go to Mitilini (my mom was born and brought up there and my last visit to the isle was 45yrs ago), the other half is cretan (for all it matters but I'm going there regularly due to wife being from there as well)
Dodecanese, I'd expect to be able to do it once the 16 and 15 year olds finish high school, till then it will be studying and studying and studying a bit more to get to the uni...
Cyclades would be slightly easier but you got to get the winds right else it's really no fun at all as I realized spending a week in Serifos this year (not with MiToS) Anyway, I owe an extensive summer report at some point, just not now, i'd rather fill in bits on the rebuilt in order to catch up.
Pete, was the port one only, sandblasted/dechoked, cleaned, balanced and re bushed and assembled for 150euro iirc. Works fine and with the new SS elbows shouldn't have the same issues again.
Right, a bit of catching up to do now!
So we are at July, MiToS back in the water and me trying to setup the chaincounter project working on the Garmin GMI10s Having done all the testing and programming at home it was time to install it on board. In order to do so, I had to setup the sensor on the Lofrans Tigres windlass. Not the easiest of tasks, but not impossible and definitely better if you use a 10mm gypsy (currently on 8mm which is smaller and thinner making things more difficult) So bought a standard windlass sensor kit for 30euro iirc and stealing ideas from my friends P45 with the same windlass and same sensor, I did the installation in an afternoon. Thankfully I had a clear path for the cable with already a sensor cable through all the upholstery waiting to be connected:
First two pics are the P45 installation on a 10mm gypsy:
here is the dismantled back cover of the windlass with the exact spot for drilling, securing and fitting the base for the sensor:
Here is the elbow and the actual sensor in place:
all back in place, you can also see the magnet on the gypsy and the new anchor on the background, more in a mo:
Following the lack of confidence I had with my 15kg bruce copy, and after a hilarious incident with a couple of friends on board MiToS and me on the dingy (without the outboard) paddling like crazy to catch MiToS that was dragging its anchor and luckily going towards the middle of the bay (and not to the rocks...) I decided to change anchor.
I decided not to go for a Rocna or Delta and bought the largest Mantus I could fit on the bow roller and I could persuade myself to pay for, that's 20kg.
Looks rather nice on the bow roller, comes up and releases without any issues and didn't even bother fitting a swivel as yet. I did fit a small 15cm dia red buoy (stole the idea from a knowledgeable poster -forget his nick now, sorry) as it helps see where the anchor is on the seabed (digs nicely and completely in the typical sandy seabed around here). Probably need to shorten the line, we shall see.
Needless to say it's the first time with MiToS that I drop the anchor, reverse and the boat actually hooks and comes to an abrupt stop, the bruce would just shift on the sand. Of course that's with (what I call) reasonable scopes, with the Mantus there's no need to throw 50m of chain on 5m of water in order to feel safe... OK, don't want to start another anchor war, just happy with the new anchor and feel more relaxed at night on anchor.
For the record, the chaincounter worked erratically initially, I eventually improved it a bit, but needs some s/w finetuning (signal bouncing...) that I didn't have the time to do as I brought the whole arduino box back home to add more features! Promise I'll do it by the summer and clear up the code for whoever wants to have a go. Again there's a thread somewhere on that, I'll update it in due course.
Since on the main two multiday trips we managed we had 4 and 5 teens respectively, it was obvious that saloon shading/curtains/whatever was necessary as that's where they spend most of the time when not messing about in the water... Had a go at trying and actually selecting blackout fabrics for them but was stuck on hanging and sliding issues so project postponed for like now (and I'm still stuck on that) Problem is that superstructure at the sides is slanted (approx 10deg) which means I cannot use normal curtain rails on top as the curtain will be fouling your head when seated. So need to devise a smart way of keeping the curtain out of the way and close to the lower end of the window. Have some ideas with a stretched ss thin wire and hidden clips but need to do some testing with the guy that did the upholstery for the sofas. Colours will be one of these:
Reaching the 20pic limit, so more to follow once I sort out pics and get them ready.
cheers
V.