vas
Well-known member
sorry for not responding and updating this thread but was too tired after working 8-10h sanding and painting. Today I'm sort of taking a day off, so time for updates.
I agree with Tom's comments on sealing/epoxy matting and laying teak with glue only on top of it on a fully sealed base. Similar sort of thing to a grp deck. I MAY go this route, or may just lay the teak on top of the existing epoxied (but not matted/epoxied) deck. We shall see in May-June.
However, and I think that was what the constructor meant MM, I definitely WOULDN'T seal both sides of a deck: i.e. wouldn't put epoxy on the inside of the deck (towards the habitable space underneath that is) for the fear that dampness that may get trapped or manage to get in with humidity variations and/or other reasons will decay wood rather than exit gracefully when the conditions are right. So currently sanding the inside of the deck/sundeck/superstructure/beams you name it down to more or less bare iroko/ply and will soon be looking for a water permeable (if that's the right word) coating for it, protecting for running water (if it ever happens) but letting the wood breathe and throw out all dampness that's inside it. Don't think it's a difficult thing to find nowadays with all the nanotechnology and special paints and so on...
Bart, would be interesting to hear what the guys from Canados did to BA during the Rome refit last winter. Was it epoxy or glassfibre?
Regarding your small leaks, I'd go a step further and remove the internal panels in the cabins affected and see the extend of damage, if you can only see a small leak it may be a BIG leak that gets soaked into different layers of things before presenting itself in the internal lining. Act quick to avoid larger bills later!
ok, and a few photos of the superstructure as it stands now:
Over the last week with two days of rain to ruin my working schedule
, I managed to get all the superstructure up to 3 full coats of CPES, sand AGAIN and coat the full deck a few more times reaching a total # of coats of 3-4, sika all the seams to the superstructure and the rubbing strake teak strip which i'll probably discard and redo at some point during the winter.
Further, started filling with thick epoxy all holes that were either created by previous owner or have their original filler missing over old bronze screws and galvanised steel nails. I'm talking of hundred of holes, cleaned with my dremel and appropriate brush bit first, coated with a bit of CPES and then filled in. That's what I call fun under the sun...
Result, i'm knackered, especially right knee's had enough. Also want to do the same on the decks with a few dozen 2.5mm holes that failed (as in drilled the hole to fit a 5X50 ss countersunk screw only to find that I missed the underlying frame, so move a cm and did another one... Now, all these are given a proper opening on top (with a 10mm drill) so that there is a reasonable hole to fill with epoxy. More fun working bend over the deck!
Currently trying to figure out a way of covering most of the craft without resorting to a full tubular steel superstructure and thick tent material on top to avoid all the daily humidity of the morning and be able to work a bit better over the rainy season (although i'll be mostly working inside)
Exterior work that needs doing atm is:
V.
I agree with Tom's comments on sealing/epoxy matting and laying teak with glue only on top of it on a fully sealed base. Similar sort of thing to a grp deck. I MAY go this route, or may just lay the teak on top of the existing epoxied (but not matted/epoxied) deck. We shall see in May-June.
However, and I think that was what the constructor meant MM, I definitely WOULDN'T seal both sides of a deck: i.e. wouldn't put epoxy on the inside of the deck (towards the habitable space underneath that is) for the fear that dampness that may get trapped or manage to get in with humidity variations and/or other reasons will decay wood rather than exit gracefully when the conditions are right. So currently sanding the inside of the deck/sundeck/superstructure/beams you name it down to more or less bare iroko/ply and will soon be looking for a water permeable (if that's the right word) coating for it, protecting for running water (if it ever happens) but letting the wood breathe and throw out all dampness that's inside it. Don't think it's a difficult thing to find nowadays with all the nanotechnology and special paints and so on...
Bart, would be interesting to hear what the guys from Canados did to BA during the Rome refit last winter. Was it epoxy or glassfibre?
Regarding your small leaks, I'd go a step further and remove the internal panels in the cabins affected and see the extend of damage, if you can only see a small leak it may be a BIG leak that gets soaked into different layers of things before presenting itself in the internal lining. Act quick to avoid larger bills later!
ok, and a few photos of the superstructure as it stands now:
Over the last week with two days of rain to ruin my working schedule
, I managed to get all the superstructure up to 3 full coats of CPES, sand AGAIN and coat the full deck a few more times reaching a total # of coats of 3-4, sika all the seams to the superstructure and the rubbing strake teak strip which i'll probably discard and redo at some point during the winter.Further, started filling with thick epoxy all holes that were either created by previous owner or have their original filler missing over old bronze screws and galvanised steel nails. I'm talking of hundred of holes, cleaned with my dremel and appropriate brush bit first, coated with a bit of CPES and then filled in. That's what I call fun under the sun...
Result, i'm knackered, especially right knee's had enough. Also want to do the same on the decks with a few dozen 2.5mm holes that failed (as in drilled the hole to fit a 5X50 ss countersunk screw only to find that I missed the underlying frame, so move a cm and did another one... Now, all these are given a proper opening on top (with a 10mm drill) so that there is a reasonable hole to fill with epoxy. More fun working bend over the deck!
Currently trying to figure out a way of covering most of the craft without resorting to a full tubular steel superstructure and thick tent material on top to avoid all the daily humidity of the morning and be able to work a bit better over the rainy season (although i'll be mostly working inside)
Exterior work that needs doing atm is:
- removing all windows, reparing any local rot with new timber/ply, sealing, coating, sanding and temp refitting windows with new seals until May-June when they'll be removed again for painting.
- F/B layout redone, finish paint stripping on a few surfaces and half the deck up there
- aft deck replacement
- aft deck gunwale (is that the right term I wonder-talking about the "sidewalls" of the aft deck) removing of all old ply, treating existing construction and re-doing it with redesigned access hatches, builtin bench at the back etc.
- Also time to decide on pasarelle and possibly cut an access door on the transom. These two relate to the decision on keeping or removing the davits as cutting door on transom and keeping davits dont work together in my book (structurally stupid...)
V.
