Leroy Somer Windlass

[Oceanis]

I have a Leroy Somer windlass on my Oceanis 411 (2001). I am not sure of the model but it has both the chain and rope gipsy on the same side next to each other.

The chain gypsy is locked onto the drive shaft by two cone-shaped discs, one on each side and this is compressed by the rope gypsy which is threaded onto the drive shaft and has holes in it to allow the rope gypsy to be tensioned-on using a pipe lever. The two cone-shaped discs then grip the chain gypsy and away you go.

However, I think the cone-shaped disks have worn down and the chain gypsy now slips no matter how hard I tension the rope gypsy because the side of the rope gypsy comes into contact with the side of the chain gypsy before enough pressure is put on the cones to lock the chain gypsy. I haven't had much success at finding spare parts for this windlass on the Web.

Two questions, has anyone found a spares supplier in the UK for a Leroy Somer windlass and secondly has anyone had the same problem and solved it? I am thinking that if I put a thick washer between the rope gypsy and the cone-shaped disk to act as a spacer this would allow me to get tension onto the disks and grip the chain gypsy.......any thoughts please?

 

[duncanmack]

I have a Leroy Somer windlass on my Oceanis 411 (2001). I am not sure of the model but it has both the chain and rope gipsy on the same side next to each other.

The chain gypsy is locked onto the drive shaft by two cone-shaped discs, one on each side and this is compressed by the rope gypsy which is threaded onto the drive shaft and has holes in it to allow the rope gypsy to be tensioned-on using a pipe lever. The two cone-shaped discs then grip the chain gypsy and away you go.

However, I think the cone-shaped disks have worn down and the chain gypsy now slips no matter how hard I tension the rope gypsy because the side of the rope gypsy comes into contact with the side of the chain gypsy before enough pressure is put on the cones to lock the chain gypsy. I haven't had much success at finding spare parts for this windlass on the Web.

Two questions, has anyone found a spares supplier in the UK for a Leroy Somer windlass and secondly has anyone had the same problem and solved it? I am thinking that if I put a thick washer between the rope gypsy and the cone-shaped disk to act as a spacer this would allow me to get tension onto the disks and grip the chain gypsy.......any thoughts please?

As I was intrigued....
From another place

"After posting this query I tracked down LC Kittow who offer full support for LS windlasses.
Kittow were able to supply an 8 mm gypsy to replace my existing 10mm and assured me that LS windlasses are fully servicable with spares available.
As described earlier in this strand the clutch is a very simple conical face arrangement and there does not appear to be any form of manual back up if the electrics fail.

L C Kittow Ltd
Address: 34 Spear Road, Southampton, SO14 6UH, UK "

Whomesofailing - you have to either put a "shim" in to get it to tighten up again - or, get new cones turned up at your local machine shop.

Hope that helps.

 

[nickf]

Had a similar problem on my 393. Managed to solve it by removing the outer cheek (the one that isn't held on to the axle by an allen screw) and grinding away about an eighth of an inch of the inner surface (not the cheek itself but the flat surface around the square hole for the axle).This allowed the two cheeks to tighten up as previously no amount of tightening would allow the cheeks to engage on the gypsy, as the two inner flat surfaces of the cheeks around the axle were meeting (in other words the two cheeks were binding against one another and not on the concave surfaces of the gypsy). Hope this makes sense!
No doubt the better solution is to get new cheeks!

 

[nickf]

Oceanis, I have just reread your origional - not sure your problem is the same as mine as you state the rope gypsy is tightening on the chain gypsy before pressure is put on the cones. Are you sure this is the case -if so a shim or washer should solve the problem.
There is a lengthy thred on the UK Beneteau Owners Assoc. Tehnical forum complete with photos.
http://www.beneteau-owners-association.org.uk/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=10&tid=1686

 

[Oceanis]

As I was intrigued....
From another place

"After posting this query I tracked down LC Kittow who offer full support for LS windlasses.
Kittow were able to supply an 8 mm gypsy to replace my existing 10mm and assured me that LS windlasses are fully servicable with spares available.
As described earlier in this strand the clutch is a very simple conical face arrangement and there does not appear to be any form of manual back up if the electrics fail.

L C Kittow Ltd
Address: 34 Spear Road, Southampton, SO14 6UH, UK "

Whomesofailing - you have to either put a "shim" in to get it to tighten up again - or, get new cones turned up at your local machine shop.

Hope that helps.

Duncanmack many thanks for the Kittow Ltd contact details......good to know I've got a supplier in the UK if I have to get my wallet out.

 

[Oceanis]

Oceanis, I have just reread your origional - not sure your problem is the same as mine as you state the rope gypsy is tightening on the chain gypsy before pressure is put on the cones. Are you sure this is the case -if so a shim or washer should solve the problem.
There is a lengthy thred on the UK Beneteau Owners Assoc. Tehnical forum complete with photos.
http://www.beneteau-owners-association.org.uk/toast/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=10&tid=1686

Nickf, having read your post regarding the two cones touching before they have gripped the chain gypsy, you have given me another angle I hadn't thought about and I'm now not so sure which is the case. It certainly looked as though the rope gypsy was coming into contact with the chain gypsy but......if that was the case then why would the chain gypsy slip so easily......I think you might well have a point and I need to take another look.

 

[nickf]

Oceanis, I checked it out by using a "washer" made out of several thicknesses of newspaper placed on the cone -in fact this in itself worked for several weeks. I guess it allowed the cone without the newspaper to then grip. It probably doesnt need a "washer", just a bit of folded card on the cone face, if it then grips my solution of grinding the inner surface should offer a more permanent solution.

Good luck
Nick

 

[Oceanis]

I'm not going to get down to the boat for a week or two because SWMBO has a list of jobs for me to do at home. As soon as I've had a chance to take another look at the windlass I'll post an update on further investigation of the cause/fix for a slipping chain gypsy. Many thanks,.....John.

 

[pagoda]

I'm not going to get down to the boat for a week or two because SWMBO has a list of jobs for me to do at home. As soon as I've had a chance to take another look at the windlass I'll post an update on further investigation of the cause/fix for a slipping chain gypsy. Many thanks,.....John.

I had a similar sort of issue with my old Simpson Lawrence windlass. The only solution was to dismount the windlass, drag it home and strip it down in a nice warm back bedroom.
No freezing hands, rain or other issues ;-) SWMBO was not too concerned if I vanished inside the house for the odd hour or 3...

Graeme

 

[Oceanis]

I had a similar sort of issue with my old Simpson Lawrence windlass. The only solution was to dismount the windlass, drag it home and strip it down in a nice warm back bedroom.
No freezing hands, rain or other issues ;-) SWMBO was not too concerned if I vanished inside the house for the odd hour or 3...

Graeme

Good thinking but if I plan this carefully, I could get a weekend pass to Swanwick to work on the boat and peace and quiet to watch the first games of the RBS 6 Nations with a pint or two thrown in........bliss

 

[Oceanis]

Got down to the boat over the weekend and have got the windlass sorted out. The model number appears to be LS IP66.

I removed the rope gipsy, conical disk and chain gypsy. The inner conical disk was a bit tight but finally came off to reveal a hole drilled throught the drive shaft with a sheared pin inside. Basically, there should be a pin (about 6 mm diameter) which passes through the drive shaft and fits into a key on either side of the inner disk's collar. Having knocked out what was left of the sheared pin and found a suitable pin to replace it, I reassembled the two gipsies and conical disks and it's all working again.

The pin had sheared and the whole assembly had moved along the drive shaft towards the motor casing such that the thread on the drive shaft ran out before the rope gypsy had any grip on the disks and chain gypsy.

Many thanks for the thoughts, suggestions and ideas. As mentioned by Duncanmack earlier in this thread......the problem of what to do in the event of a failure, as there doesn't appear to be any manual over-ride if the motor/electrics fail, remains a serious issue with this model of windlass.

 

[derk]

Probably a bit late for this now and pleased it is sorted. But I have a virtualy new Leroy somar whinch at home. Whilst it is however the manual version( hence it is not on boat) The gypsy and other mechanical parts i would think are the same as the power version. It has a 10mm gypsy.
If anybody is interested please get in touch

 

[JonnyD]

Hi Derk, I have a 47.7 with a Leory Somer fitted, since buying the boat, the chain has always slipped. I am guessing it is either uncalibrated or wrong size chain. Since you have a 10mm Gypsy I am thinking of swapping from the current - guessed at 12 mm gypsy to a 10mm one, and buying new chain to fit, so your spare windlass is very interesting. Do you want to contact me to discuss? thanks

 

[pondfish]

Hi guy's I know this thread was a while ago but I have the same windlass with 4 holes in the rope section,
Can anybody tell me if this can be used to lower anchor without the switch,
thanks in advance.

 

[Heckler]

Hi guy's I know this thread was a while ago but I have the same windlass with 4 holes in the rope section,
Can anybody tell me if this can be used to lower anchor without the switch,
thanks in advance.

Yes, just untighten the rope section and the clutches will separate allowing the gypsy to turn. For info I have just stripped mine completely on my Bene 381, brushes problem, but now sorted. Am writing it up with pics for PBO.
Stu

 

[macd]

Better late than never, Stu

 

[jac]

Better late than never, Stu

Your posting is important to us but we are experiencing higher than expected post volumes. Please continue to wait and our forum will be worth you as soon as possible

 

[Plum]

Yes, just untighten the rope section and the clutches will separate allowing the gypsy to turn. For info I have just stripped mine completely on my Bene 381, brushes problem, but now sorted. Am writing it up with pics for PBO.
Stu

I look forward to your article!

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

 

[Heckler]

I look forward to your article!

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Was an epic job, I always wondered how to get in to it, the bottom comes off! Frightening though to see how the load is transferred by 4 6mm screws to the casing and then to the boat.
Stu

 

[Plum]

Was an epic job, I always wondered how to get in to it, the bottom comes off! Frightening though to see how the load is transferred by 4 6mm screws to the casing and then to the boat.
Stu

Which PBO edition will it be in?