Hot water system

Clash

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If you closely look at photo in post 33 you will notice that the inlet fitting appears to be a combined Inlet /PRV and drain valve.
please also see me request for advice re 240v power supply.
This one? Looks like a cam type rather than a ball valve - the valve is opened by lifting the handle rather than rotating it. Which would suggest that it opens the drain rather than letting the cold water in. I don't see a PRV in that picture.

1734604846529.png

Edit: Just thinking that valve may operate as a PRV. The valve is opened by lifting the handle 90° such that the nose operates as a cam and pulls the valve clear of the outlet thus allowing water to flow out. They also contain a spring which pushes the valve back into place when the handle is returned to its normal position. If the spring was set to compress under a certain pressure, it could operate as a PRV without the handle being engaged.
 
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PaulRainbow

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If you closely look at photo in post 33 you will notice that the inlet fitting appears to be a combined Inlet /PRV and drain valve.
please also see me request for advice re 240v power supply.
If you mean the last picture, i've described what's wrong with that in post #80, the PRV is installed incorrectly, it stop cold water getting to the calorifier, unless manually opened.
 

Clash

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It needs a PRV in the top or bottom, as long as it's capable of discharging excess pressure. No idea why you keep saying TPR, whatever that is.
It's a temperature and pressure relief valve. Belt and braces approach which assumes that the pressure release valve fails and so over-temperature is the trigger.
 

PaulRainbow

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This one? Looks like a cam type rather than a ball valve - the valve is opened by lifting the handle rather than rotating it. Which would suggest that it opens the drain rather than letting the cold water in. I don't see a PRV in that picture.

View attachment 186841

Edit: Just thinking that valve may operate as a PRV. The valve is opened by lifting the handle 90° such that the nose operates as a cam and pulls the valve clear of the outlet thus allowing water to flow out. They also contain a spring which pushes the valve back into place when the handle is returned to its normal position. If the spring was set to compress under a certain pressure, it could operate as a PRV without the handle being engaged.
I Googled Quick PRV and you are correct, it does include a PRV Quick Calorifier Pressure Relief Valve According to the Quick manual, it also includes a NRV.

However, the one in the OPs original picture is still installed incorrectly. Perhaps the original failed and someone incorrectly fitted a replacement ?

Perhaps @Sessa Lel can post a pic from under the tank so we can see what's there ?

 
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PaulRainbow

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It's a temperature and pressure relief valve. Belt and braces approach which assumes that the pressure release valve fails and so over-temperature is the trigger.
Never seen one of those on a boat, but who knows......

Normal practice is to fit an expansion tank and a PRV, modern calorifiers usually come with a thermostatic mixing valve too.

The 2nd picture in post #33 is wrong. Quick show an expansion tank between the pump and the calorifier, but the PRV/drain also includes a NRV, so the "expansion" tank cannot work, it could be an accumulator, but that's not what they say.

This shows how thing should be done ;
Untitled_69dfdd71-c7c2-4c78-9b34-0deebeaf9f67.png
 

Clash

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I Googled Quick PRV and you are correct, it does include a PRV Quick Calorifier Pressure Relief Valve According to the Quick manual, it also includes a NRV.

However, the one in the OPs original picture is still installed incorrectly. Perhaps the original failed and someone incorrectly fitted a replacement ?

Perhaps @Sessa Lel can post a pic from under the tank so we can see what's there ?

The one in the OPs original picture looks like a normal domestic boiler PRV. Nothing particularly wrong with that - they come in different pressure settings from 2 bar - but it's installed completely incorrectly. It's supposed to be connected perpendicular (on a tee connector) to the cold inlet (or hot outlet) such that the exhaust exit (arrowed section) can be plumbed to the bilge/overboard.
 

PaulRainbow

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The one in the OPs original picture looks like a normal domestic boiler PRV. Nothing particularly wrong with that - they come in different pressure settings from 2 bar - but it's installed completely incorrectly. It's supposed to be connected perpendicular (on a tee connector) to the cold inlet (or hot outlet) such that the exhaust exit (arrowed section) can be plumbed to the bilge/overboard.
Absolutely, that's what i've been saying since post #80
 

Sessa Lel

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I Googled Quick PRV and you are correct, it does include a PRV Quick Calorifier Pressure Relief Valve According to the Quick manual, it also includes a NRV.

However, the one in the OPs original picture is still installed incorrectly. Perhaps the original failed and someone incorrectly fitted a replacement ?

Perhaps @Sessa Lel can post a pic from under the tank so we can see what's there ?

Hi
I have ordered a new valve as per the parts number on the site selling Quick calorifier.
I won't be back to the boat until after the holidays, once there will see if there is anything under the tank.
 

Clash

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Hi
I have ordered a new valve as per the parts number on the site selling Quick calorifier.
I won't be back to the boat until after the holidays, once there will see if there is anything under the tank.

If it's this one, looks exactly like the one in the pics you posted. The clear pipe presumably goes on the pressure release outlet with a cable tie to compress it. Would probably prefer a jubilee clip, but you probably have to figure out where to feed it to first. The supplied length looks very short, but if you've access to the bilges nearby, it will probably do the job. Make sure you have PTFE tape for the threads

1734628369689.png
 

PaulRainbow

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Hi
I have ordered a new valve as per the parts number on the site selling Quick calorifier.
I won't be back to the boat until after the holidays, once there will see if there is anything under the tank.
If it's the Quick one you just fit that directly to the tank, then connect the water supply to it, job done.
 

Sessa Lel

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If it's this one, looks exactly like the one in the pics you posted. The clear pipe presumably goes on the pressure release outlet with a cable tie to compress it. Would probably prefer a jubilee clip, but you probably have to figure out where to feed it to first. The supplied length looks very short, but if you've access to the bilges nearby, it will probably do the job. Make sure you have PTFE tape for the threads

View attachment 186865
The tank is only about 6 inches above bilge, so no problem with length os pipe, if not I can always get a longer one. Obviously I would use PTFE Tape.
Thanks
 
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