GP14 Dingy

[Bigplumbs]

Off now to see if the varnish is dry for the second coat. Quite good this time of year as 12 hours will usually do it

 

[Bigplumbs]

Had to rethink the Outboard mount. I think we have a system now though

 

[wombat88]

From memory a GP 14 has a stern deck which doesn't help when it comes to outboards.

Are you planning on steering with the outboard or the rudder? Will one chew the other?

Is the sheet central or at the end of the boom, if the latter the sheet will certainly be attracted by the motor with potentially interesting results.

As you might guess from my comments I gave up the engine idea and went back to oars. If the boat is wide then two rowing can make really good progress.

 

[Bigplumbs]

The boom is attached with the ropes (Sheets go on the bed ) to the centre. I will be attaching the outboard on the Right hand side as you look to the front from the rear . I will fix the outboard and steer with the rudder. It is only a 10kg Suzuki 2 hp 2 stroke and I think I will have a system that will work. I will make a video on my You tube channel and post some pictures here. When I collected my Zapcat from Wales I needed some bits to help with the bearing change on the wheels. Her indoors raided a skip in the hotel car park and found some lovely chair slats that we used and then brought home. These are bent at the exact curve to the rear deck which will help greatly in my scheme.

 

[Egret]

Over lapped with #84 - 'centre main (sheet) system' will be well out of the way of the outboard. The ropes going through pulleys on each quarter are the spinnaker sheets. - Just need to set outboard clear of the rudder when it turns

If fixing the outboard bracket you have isn't working, try making a 'box' type out of plywood with a fairly wide piece on the transom bolt fixed from top to bottom for stiffening and the bit you fix the outboard to fixed at an appropriate level - might be able to adapt the bracket you have,- Should have taken a photo of the GP14 next to my dinghy which has a wooden outboard bracket.

How long is the outboard shaft? Can you fix a board to the transom with the outboard clamping above the deck and the prop in the water? Would need to check rudder clearance

 

[Bigplumbs]

Over lapped with #84 - 'centre main (sheet) system' will be well out of the way of the outboard. The ropes going through pulleys on each quarter are the spinnaker sheets. - Just need to set outboard clear of the rudder when it turns

If fixing the outboard bracket you have isn't working, try making a 'box' type out of plywood with a fairly wide piece on the transom bolt fixed from top to bottom for stiffening and the bit you fix the outboard to fixed at an appropriate level - might be able to adapt the bracket you have,- Should have taken a photo of the GP14 next to my dinghy which has a wooden outboard bracket.

How long is the outboard shaft? Can you fix a board to the transom with the outboard clamping above the deck and the prop in the water? Would need to check rudder clearance

Plan is as follows. I have already made most of it and the first coat of varnish is drying:

Timber plate to the shape of 1/3 ish of the rear 'Transom' varnished
Bolted through to timber or plastic chopping board inside.
Vertical timber approx 10 x 30 mm fixed to this Board
40 mm wide curved strip of timber to the top of the deck held with littel stainless angles
Ali Channel (2 pieces) in V shape to rear of this lot on the 10 x 30 with board dropped in higher than the deck
Outboard will clamp to the top of the board.
Outboard is short/standard shaft and I have tested it so I think it will be long enough just. If not I will try and source a long shaft
CT1 clear used as glue also and to seal any holes...... I love CT1
I have tested this and I get one heck of a steer on the tiller before the prop hits the rudder

I think it will be good. some pics tomorrow hopefully

 

[Bigplumbs]

The nice people at Amazon delivered my Rowlocks. THey were only £8.95 for both including the mounts. They are stronger than I thought and also they lock into position once put in and rotated. Thy fit my oars perfectly

This is the link

H2o Kayaks Nylon Oarlock & Side Mount Socket (Pack of 2) : Amazon.co.uk: Sports & Outdoors

 

[Bigplumbs]

I will measure the distance between the centre of the seat and the rowlock position on my Honwave T40 sib to see where to fix them. Looking at the boat there already seems to be some strong points. I will fix the mounts on the outside of the gunwale

 

[Bigplumbs]

So this will be the the Rowlock Position which will be about 13 inches aft of the rowing seat

 

[Bigplumbs]

And this is the initial parts of how I will be mounting the outboard

 

[Bigplumbs]

The channel will cut to length and fixed in a gentle v in the position of the rough red lines

 

[Seastoke]

So this will be the the Rowlock Position which will be about 13 inches aft of the rowing seat

View attachment 197172

What’s aft.

 

[Bigplumbs]

What’s aft.

Similar to Daft but missing the D

 

[Puffin10032]

Over lapped with #84 - 'centre main (sheet) system' will be well out of the way of the outboard. The ropes going through pulleys on each quarter are the spinnaker sheets. - Just need to set outboard clear of the rudder when it turns

GP14s usually have a combined transom/centre systems (like Lasers). Plum's boat clearly has that set-up.

 

[Egret]

Make sure the aluminium bits and fixings for the outboard bracket are strong enough - especially for if the motor hits the ground at speed or gets caught up in something.

As you say - Laser type mainsheet system, but my GP 14 of similar vintage had a centre main - they all did then - may need a stiffer boom eventually if you bend it.

 

[Bigplumbs]

Make sure the aluminium bits and fixings for the outboard bracket are strong enough - especially for if the motor hits the ground at speed or gets caught up in something.

As you say - Laser type mainsheet system, but my GP 14 of similar vintage had a centre main - they all did then - may need a stiffer boom eventually if you bend it.

Thanks Keith. The outboard is such that should it hit the ground it would flip upwards. I will make a sandwich of the fiberglass 'transom'. This being the piece of wood shown and on the inside where the stainless bolts go through there will be a 10 mm or greater cut chopping board in that hard plastic from QD. Both will be stuck with CT1 as well as bolted. Remember I am not an Engineer so the factor of safety will only be about 1.5

 

[Egret]

Can't quite see - Is the board extending above the transom a bit to take the clamps - simples if it is - not sure what the aluminium bits are going to do - awaiting final image with motor fitted.

As long as the prop and cavitation plate are just below water when static, with you both sitting in the boat, the propellor will draw the stern down deeper when it is running - our Yamaha 2B did ,

 

[Bigplumbs]

Can't quite see - Is the board extending above the transom a bit to take the clamps - simples if it is - not sure what the aluminium bits are going to do - awaiting final image with motor fitted.

As long as the prop and cavitation plate are just below water when static, with you both sitting in the boat, the propellor will draw the stern down deeper when it is running - our Yamaha 2B did ,

The wood in the picture will be permanently fitted to the rear of the boat. The ali channel will be cut into 2 lengths approx 250 mm long and permanently fixed to the wood you see in a gentle v. I will then make a board that will slide in and out of the channel to the thickness of the channel. The v Shape layout will stop the board just falling through and into the water. This board will extend say 100 mm above the top deck of the boat. It is this 100 mm high bit that I will clamp the outboard onto. If not using the motor the board that slots into the channel can be removed and used to wack an Engineer over the head with lol

 

[SaltIre]

The wood in the picture will be permanently fitted to the rear of the boat. The ali channel will be cut into 2 lengths approx 250 mm long and permanently fixed to the wood you see in a gentle v. I will then make a board that will slide in and out of the channel to the thickness of the channel. The v Shape layout will stop the board just falling through and into the water. This board will extend say 100 mm above the top deck of the boat. It is this 100 mm high bit that I will clamp the outboard onto. If not using the motor the board that slots into the channel can be removed and used to wack an Engineer over the head with lol

lol
Is the U-shaped aluminium strong enough to mount an outboard? It looks a bit flimsy.

 

[Chiara’s slave]

All I can add here is ‘don’t forget your bungs’. Many a maiden trip has ended in wet feet