Extract core from part of furling line so that it lies better on drum?

[Vega1447]

I've see this discussed online though not recently. Apologies if it is a FAQ.
I have a pretty basic plastimo furling system on my Albin Vega 27.

I use a 6mm furling line (braid on braid) led aft from the furling drum through fairleads then though a clutch and finally through a turning block at the pushpit and forward to a winch if needed.

This all works fine but regularly the line "clumps up" on the drum when rolling out the headsail so the drum won't turn unless I go forward to free it.

Because the line is too thick for the relatively small diameter drum.

(Of course I use this thicker line for ease of handling.)

Not a safety issue as I can still furl the unrolled part of the sail.

The alternative is to winch the sail out which does work through I'm uneasy that it may put unnecessary load on the mechanism.

(Am I overthinking this?)

I remember reading somewhere that removing the core from the "forward" part of the line - the part that wraps round the drum when the headsail is rolled out of course - is an easy way to remedy the problem.

Would I need a fid to extract the core from a point a meter or two aft of the forward end of the line (obviously I'd mark where the line emerged from the drum with the sail fully unrolled) or is it just a matter of using a spike to penetrate the outer sheath and extract the core from the foremost part of the line?

Presumably I stitch the remaining core to the sheath for a few cm before cutting so that it doesn't work its way aft?

Have I greatly weakened the de-cored flat tape forward of the cut?

And does it matter?

Any comments very welcome.

 

[Supertramp]

Remove the furling line, use a screwdriver if no fid to remove about 6 to 8 feet of core, stitch if worried but I left mine, reattach furling line and look for improvement. Make sure the end of the now thinner furling line is secure.

 

[Boathook]

My furling line used to 'clump' up if I let the sail out to quickly.

I have removed some of the inner core, from the furler down to the cockpit to make more room on the drum as well. Basically the same way as Supertramp but around 20 foot. I did also taper the inner core where cut to make it a bit smoother.

 

[Laysula]

My Selden system had 8mm line which used to dig in under itself. I replaced it with 10mm line and decored all the line which furled onto the drum. The bigger line is much easier to handle and doesn't dig in anymore.
Whilst your furling line is off take the opportunity to grease all the bearings, and if it runs through rollers make sure they're all free running.

 

[rib]

Did mine and stitched.. Half a boat length from memory

 

[thinwater]

A. Over-sizing lines for ease of handling is a mistake 90% of the time. The gear is designed for the smaller size and will not run properly if up-sized. Aplies to sheet and halyards also. Wear gloves and get a wrap on a winch when needed. I suggest going back to the original size and wearing gloves.

B. Furl down wind. Much less force on the line.

C. As others have said, you do NOT just let the line run when deploying, and you keep some sheet tension when furling. Proper operation.

If you want to keep the line you have, normally you remove about the length of the foot of the sail. Taper, milk the cover tight, and lock stitch a few inches of the taper.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

A. Over-sizing lines for ease of handling is a mistake 90% of the time. The gear is designed for the smaller size and will not run properly if up-sized. Aplies to sheet and halyards also. Wear gloves and get a wrap on a winch when needed. I suggest going back to the original size and wearing gloves.

B. Furl down wind. Much less force on the line.

C. As others have said, you do NOT just let the line run when deploying, and you keep some sheet tension when furling. Proper operation.

If you want to keep the line you have, normally you remove about the length of the foot of the sail. Taper, milk the cover tight, and lock stitch a few inches of the taper.

Not sure that furling downwind gives less load on the line, perhaps if blanketed behind mainsail?
Some load is required in order to wrap the line tightly around the drum and the sail around the foil.

 

[johnalison]

If there is enough space for the line on the drum, the size shouldn’t matter. The most important factor is always to keep tension on the furling line when deploying the sail and feed it out steadily and not let it run away with itself.

 

[johnalison]

Not sure that furling downwind gives less load on the line, perhaps if blanketed behind mainsail?
Some load is required in order to wrap the line tightly around the drum and the sail around the foil.

The trick is to steer the right course, depending on wind speed such that just the right amount of tension is retained. This is easy with a tiller and the helmsman also controlling the line.

 

[Laysula]

A. Over-sizing lines for ease of handling is a mistake 90% of the time. The gear is designed for the smaller size and will not run properly if up-sized. Aplies to sheet and halyards also. Wear gloves and get a wrap on a winch when needed. I suggest going back to the original size and wearing gl

Not sure who you're refering to here as the OP has not mentioned oversizing his line and mine is easier and more reliable than it's ever been.
On the other hand my mates boat has , in my opinion too large reefing lines and the extra friction makes reefing and shaking out a right pain in the backside.

 

[srm]

Compact drum, heavy easy handle reefing line, no long tail to coil and tidy away. I fitted them to my previous and current boats and never had a snarl up or jam.

Sailspar Continuous Line System : Sailspar

 

[thinwater]

Not sure that furling downwind gives less load on the line, perhaps if blanketed behind mainsail?
Some load is required in order to wrap the line tightly around the drum and the sail around the foil.

Yes, behind the mainsail. But even if not, the AW is less (not DDW in that case--wind on the beamish).

Yes, keep some sheet tension, always.

 

[thinwater]

Not sure who you're refering to here as the OP has not mentioned oversizing his line and mine is easier and more reliable than it's ever been.
On the other hand my mates boat has , in my opinion too large reefing lines and the extra friction makes reefing and shaking out a right pain in the backside.

The OP said this:
Because the line is too thick for the relatively small diameter drum.
(Of course I use this thicker line for ease of handling.)

But that may or may not be the original size and may or may not be part of the problem, since he aid it was 6mm, which is not fat. But stripping the core from 6 mm should still be strong enough.

If chafe is a problem, coating with Yale MAzijacket will incrtease wear about 5-10x (based on my testing, lab and boat).

 

[lauriel]

Lubricant on furling line?
I am having trouble achieving even winds on my furling drum with new line using yacht rope. I am considering spraying the length that winds up with silicone spray.
Has anyone tried this or thinks it's dumb in case the rope you haul in becomes slipery.
All comments welcome. Haul in, boys (and girls) haul, haul , haul.

 

[WindyWindyWindy]

You might well have looked at it already, but sometimes the way the furling line is routed makes a massive difference.

I have some marks in the deck where the line used to be set too close to it.

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Not sure who you're refering to here as the OP has not mentioned oversizing his line and mine is easier and more reliable than it's ever been.
On the other hand my mates boat has , in my opinion too large reefing lines and the extra friction makes reefing and shaking out a right pain in the backside.

The OP says in his fifth paragraph; "(Of course I use this thicker line for ease of handling)"

 

[Spirit (of Glenans)]

Yes, behind the mainsail. But even if not, the AW is less (not DDW in that case--wind on the beamish).

Yes, keep some sheet tension, always.

I have been in the habit of remaining on course and maintaining tension on the furling system by use of the sheet.

 

[thinwater]

This is another case of "it depends."

In strong winds hiding the sail behind the main can be the only reasonable way. In lighter winds, you often get a better furl sailing full and by with some sheet tension. And any two sailors can mean different things by light and strong. Genoas and blades have slightly different requirements. Experiment, trying advice from many forum members. Quite often they are all correct.

 

[Refueler]

The trick is to steer the right course, depending on wind speed such that just the right amount of tension is retained. This is easy with a tiller and the helmsman also controlling the line.

Its not so much course you steer ... its the use of sheet to control the fill of the sail while furling ......

When unfurling - again its sheet control as well as furling line .... even if you have to pull furling line a few feet and then return to unfurling .....

I assume my furler is similar to OP's ... open drum on a 609 Plastimo ... if I just furl / unfurl without using above - I often get snagged .... furling line bunched up ... furling line riding turn ... etc.

I agree that removing core from furling line can be advantage - but having shown a number of people over the years 'balancing' the two lines in use - they have not needed to resort to 'de-coring' the line. As another says - use the correct sized / type of furling line.

 

[GHA]

splicing a length of dyneema onto a thicker length double braid polyester also works well, pretty much zero stretch so no movement & even if it does chaff you can a lot of the way through & still have plenty strength left.