Cooling water intake to engine and modification for winterising

Refueler

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The engine is a raw water cooled Volvo Penta AQ170A petrol job.

Water is drawn via the sterndrive to the seawater pump ... then via circulation pump round engine and out via exhaust.

A standard arrangement.

When I bought the boat - the water pipe from sterndrive was disconnected about halfway in length and a bucket with hose connector in bottom connected to the engine half of pipe. Seller said - while engine running water was fed to the bucket until temp increased and thermostat opened ... then Antifreeze was poured into the bucket to replace water in system. All sounds good and I can do that ..

Here you can see the blue hose to engine and the black hose in the bilge ... when engine is in service - blue is connected to the black.

kLtcTTyl.jpg


Here you see the bucket that is connected to other end of blue hose to flush with antifreeze :

BqJon8Al.jpg


The problem is that this can only be done when boat is out of water as there is no valve on the black hose to stop water flowing in ...

I would like to modify the system so that I have a 3 way junction and valves. Basically have a connection that I can fix bucket to ... black and blue hoses stay connected - but I can shut seawater black hose off .. open up bucket hose to have that feed blue hose engine system. Then in future - I can flush the engine while still afloat .....

The water that the boat is usually in is fresh ... boat spends majority of its time running on the river. With only occasional forays into brackish Baltic water. So corrosion is not as in UK waters.

Would a good plastic 3 way be sufficient or should it be bronze ? Given that its cold water intake .. no heat at all. I would like of course to have the item mounted to the engine bay bulkhead - obviously with a rubber pad to avoid vibration stress etc.

Something like this :

71Zlf2YVYoL._AC_UL232_SR232,232_.jpg
 
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Alicatt

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The VP MD7A takes it's raw water in via the Saildrive, I warm up the engine and then shut the seacock then disconnect the hose to the raw water pump, stick the end of the hose in a can of ready to use anti freeze, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out the exhaust then reconnect the hose to the saildrive after pouring some antifreeze into the raw water intake, I keep the seacock closed until ready to use next season, then it is just open seacock and start the engine
 

Refueler

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The VP MD7A takes it's raw water in via the Saildrive, I warm up the engine and then shut the seacock then disconnect the hose to the raw water pump, stick the end of the hose in a can of ready to use anti freeze, run the engine until the antifreeze comes out the exhaust then reconnect the hose to the saildrive after pouring some antifreeze into the raw water intake, I keep the seacock closed until ready to use next season, then it is just open seacock and start the engine

I would do same but the water intake has no seacock ... CRAZY I know ... but true.

To get to the rear mount that holds engine / sterndrive leg - would require thin very long arms and you would not see what you were doing anyway ...

The question is - What T or Y piece to use with valves ??
 

jfm

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All seems very sensible to me. No strong preference between plastic and bronze in this application. Bronze feels nicer I suppose but that's more emotion than science :)
 

Refueler

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This week or at least when weather breaks .. she will be coming out and then its bilge-diving to disconnect that hose joint ...

Will decide then ...

I must admit I was hoping that someone else had done similar so I could get some ideas !!
 

Alicatt

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It was snowing heavy this morning here too, 20 minutes after it stopped it was all gone.

Engines on Hunter are winterised, just to do the raw water ... annnd the wife wants to go sailing this weekend, so a 4 day weekend in the big city IF I can find a berth.

New owner of Casper phoned me: Can you come and show me how to winterise the boat tomorrow. I now know what I'm doing tomorrow :)
 
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