Antares 760 thread

[Pleinmont]

Hi Guys, I've had an Antares 760 for about 3 years, and discovered this forum earlier today! Any comment, advice or information about a few things would be welcomed;

Rainwater gets into the boat, pooling in the bilges under the fore-cabin. There are holes into what I,m guessing is a double skin, but the whole layout there is a mystery to me. I did some experimentation with a hose recently and I'm pretty sure the water is entering at the deckhouse side windows. It does not go under the engine.

The fuel gauge under-reads as the level goes down. Several times I've refilled when the quantity is showing almost zero, and only been able to put in 110 litres. (That,s after a lot of rocking etc to clear any airlocks.)

Does anyone know where I can source a fastener catch for the deckhouse sole board, same as the one fitted by Beneteau?

With the Nanni 200hp engine, clean bottom, 2 on board, refurbished propeller, smooth estuary waters, the most I can get is about 3000 RPM and15 Kts. I

Sorry to hear about the leaks, that's a pain and not something I've noticed on mine beyond a bit of condensation. It seems to gather between the inner and outer hull skins (you can see a few mm of water through the round inspection holes if you lift up the wooden floors at the bow end but it never comes up out into the visible bilges which stay dry).

Speed may be down to prop pitch and gearbox ratios... The 760s normally cruise about 18knts when clean at around 3200rpm.

 

[Jon1940]

Sorry to hear about the leaks, that's a pain and not something I've noticed on mine beyond a bit of condensation. It seems to gather between the inner and outer hull skins (you can see a few mm of water through the round inspection holes if you lift up the wooden floors at the bow end but it never comes up out into the visible bilges which stay dry).

Speed may be down to prop pitch and gearbox ratios... The 760s normally cruise about 18knts when clean at around 3200rpm.

Thanks fir that, Pleinmont; yes, I suspect that in my boat the rain is entering the double skin via the deckhouse side windows, and showing in those two inspection holes in the bow, occasionally coming up into the visible bilges there.

I guess I'll have to live with the pitch and gear ratios that I'v got; I suspect you could see the fuel gauge going down at 3,200 RPM.........

 

[Jon1940]

Thanks fir that, Pleinmont; yes, I suspect that in my boat the rain is entering the double skin via the deckhouse side windows, and showing in those two inspection holes in the bow, occasionally coming up into the visible bilges there.

I guess I'll have to live with the pitch and gear ratios that I'v got; I suspect you could see the fuel gauge going down at 3,200 RPM.

We try and fish off the S Devon coast, but find that even in a small swell (say 0.5m) the boat goes side-on to the swell, as any boat would, but then rolls badly, violently even in 1.00m plus. I'm thinking of trying a sea anchor to hold the bow head-on to the wind and swell; has anyone tried that?

 

[Pleinmont]

Thanks fir that, Pleinmont; yes, I suspect that in my boat the rain is entering the double skin via the deckhouse side windows, and showing in those two inspection holes in the bow, occasionally coming up into the visible bilges there.

I guess I'll have to live with the pitch and gear ratios that I'v got; I suspect you could see the fuel gauge going down at 3,200 RPM.........

Cruising around 3000-3200rpm is not too horrible on the fuel consumption to be honest...
I worked out a while ago that my Volvo TAMD41 200hp drinks roughly 22-24litres an hour doing 15-18knts at those revs (depending on fouling and people on board)...

Yes the 760 does roll a bit when beam on fishing in swell or overfalls, but tbh most boats do without stabilisers or unless a twin hulled cat... The vertical hull shape down by the prop and skeg does help reduce side to side movement a bit compared to very flat bottomed boats.
I always thought more boats would benefit from the deep overhanging sides that extend down like on the Cygnus Cyclones to improve stability...
'Reversed gull wing chines' according to google and the pic below...

If I go fishing I normally go out by myself so I don't mind staggering about in the tide runs...
My wife hates that kind of stuff and I've had guests going green on a long day out so I've learnt the path of least resistance is going solo!

 

[Pleinmont]

I have recently replaced my PVC rubbing strip insert. I measured it as 18.01m long so ordered, in December 2024, 19m of PVC-1022 from PVC 1022 for £111 including VAT and postage. This insert is manufactured by Wilks, in Tollesbury, UK, but Wilks were charging £210 including VAT but excluding postage. I called Wilks, who are a 30minute drive from my house, to ask why the big price difference but they said that was due to the big discount they gave Technix Rubber and could not give me the same discount. When I ordered from Technix Rubber the package came despatched from Wilks in Tollesbury! luckily this insert is sold in standard lengths, one of which was 19m, just right.

However, this insert is bigger than the Beneteau insert and takes considerable effort to force it into the aluminium extrusion and took me 4 hours, even with some lubrication (Vaseline), to force it in so you need patience and a lot of effort. If you look closely, there is a very slight bulge in the insert where it fits over each of the screws holding the aluminium extrusion to the hull. You have been warned!

I made a join at the bow which is mostly hidden from view under the bow-roller and anchor.

The aluminium end caps, either side of the transom gate, were very corroded so had to fit new ones.

View attachment 191196

I'm planning on refitting the rubbing strip shortly and I wondered if the aluminium backing rail could be fairly easy to replace whilst the rubber insert is out?
There's a 1m section halfway towards the bow that has some damage and brings down the looks of the boat. Love to replace it but would rather not have to do the whole boat.
Any opinions on whether it would be a reasonably simple job to cut out and replace a couple of metres if working carefully?
There's a join near the bow so could work back from there. I presume it's just screwed into to the GRP and fairly workable to bend and cut.

 

[Plum]

I'm planning on refitting the rubbing strip shortly and I wondered if the aluminium backing rail could be fairly easy to replace whilst the rubber insert is out?
There's a 1m section halfway towards the bow that has some damage and brings down the looks of the boat. Love to replace it but would rather not have to do the whole boat.
Any opinions on whether it would be a reasonably simple job to cut out and replace a couple of metres if working carefully?
There's a join near the bow so could work back from there. I presume it's just screwed into to the GRP and fairly workable to bend and cut.

I have not tried to replace a section of the aluminium extrusion but it is only held on with self-tapping screws and some sealant/mastic

 

[Pleinmont]

I have not tried to replace a section of the aluminium extrusion but it is only held on with self-tapping screws and some sealant/mastic

Thanks - yes I was assuming/hoping that might be the case... A bit of care and attention cutting out the damaged rail and slotting in a new section should see it sorted.

 

[jakew009]

Thanks - yes I was assuming/hoping that might be the case... A bit of care and attention cutting out the damaged rail and slotting in a new section should see it sorted.

The rail comes in 3m lengths so it will have multiple joins anyway.

 

[Pleinmont]

The rail comes in 3m lengths so it will have multiple joins anyway.

Perfect - sounds good!

 

[Plum]

Has anyone with an Antares 760 had a problem with fitting the propeller anode? I have successfully fitted a lot of these over the 11 years I have had my 760 and unlike all previous times, as I offered the anode to the tapered nose of the nut it was a very sloppy fit, could move it at least 2mm side to side and the cast-in key did not engage in the keyway on the nose of the nut so I could rotate the anode. I was working between tides so had to tighten the screw, re-float and hope the anode does not move/rotate and come loose. The anode, clearly marked as for a 40mm shaft, was by Tecnoseal (part number 00403). The nut is in excellent condition and the remains of the previous anode, on removal, was not loose with no sign of rotation.

I have exchanged emails with Tecnoseal but they are in denial. Looks like I will have to buy a MG Duff one, which have always been a good fit before, for next time, which may be sooner than usual......

 

[Pleinmont]

Has anyone with an Antares 760 had a problem with fitting the propeller anode? I have successfully fitted a lot of these over the 11 years I have had my 760 and unlike all previous times, as I offered the anode to the tapered nose of the nut it was a very sloppy fit, could move it at least 2mm side to side and the cast-in key did not engage in the keyway on the nose of the nut so I could rotate the anode. I was working between tides so had to tighten the screw, re-float and hope the anode does not move/rotate and come loose. The anode, clearly marked as for a 40mm shaft, was by Tecnoseal (part number 00403). The nut is in excellent condition and the remains of the previous anode, on removal, was not loose with no sign of rotation.

I have exchanged emails with Tecnoseal but they are in denial. Looks like I will have to buy a MG Duff one, which have always been a good fit before, for next time, which may be sooner than usual......

Not had that problem yet, thankfully... Bad batch maybe.
I've never noticed any problems or difference in quality between Technoseal, Martyr or MG Duff anodes. Other than the hex screw head is a different size sometimes.
I usually buy the CMAN240 which I think is MG Duff and fill the hole with grease to give it another month or two on the shaft.

I changed all my anodes the other week with the boat in about 10ft of water whilst holding my breath so I was happy to find they all fitted properly and with no hassle.
Saved me hours of time drying out on the pad or the cost of getting lifted...
Was quite good fun for an hour's activity and managed to not drop anything either
Probably won't do it in the winter but handy for the 6monthly replacements that need doing in the summer months.

 

[Plum]

Not had that problem yet, thankfully... Bad batch maybe.
I've never noticed any problems or difference in quality between Technoseal, Martyr or MG Duff anodes. Other than the hex screw head is a different size sometimes.
I usually buy the CMAN240 which I think is MG Duff and fill the hole with grease to give it another month or two on the shaft.

I changed all my anodes the other week with the boat in about 10ft of water whilst holding my breath so I was happy to find they all fitted properly and with no hassle.
Saved me hours of time drying out on the pad or the cost of getting lifted...
Was quite good fun for an hour's activity and managed to not drop anything either
Probably won't do it in the winter but handy for the 6monthly replacements that need doing in the summer months.

View attachment 199617

Oh well done! Tecnoseal are not interested so I will buy a MG Duff one for next time.

 

[Forp]

Hi guys,
I was thinking about buying a backup engine, outboard 10 HP with long leg. Is that enough?

Also, when not in use, I want to store it in lazarette locker in the recommended, lying position (probably will make some kind of stand to be fixed). However, I'm concerned about waves/rough sea to cause oil spill. Any experience with this, suggestions? Thanks!

 

[Pleinmont]

Would be better off on a flip up bracket on the swim platform as I have seen done on some Arvors.
I store my little 2.3hp Honda down in the lazarette and even then you have to be specific about how it goes in and where the handle folds etc so the deck lid closes.
It's quite heavy lowering it in below your feet and that only weighs about 12kg.

A 10hp is about 40kg - if you want it as an auxiliary you'll also be moving it around out at sea which would be a nightmare if not impossible.

Touch wood I've never needed an aux in 10yrs of boating with a single diesel but if I did I'd put it on the swim platform (if that is strong enough to use).

 

[Forp]

I was thinking about a flip up bracket on the swim platform, but I'm afraid it will still go under the water when planing.

10HP seems like enough power to move 3t boat. I would be happier with less power (and kilos), but not sure if that will be sufficient when conditions are not ideal.

 

[Plum]

I was thinking about a flip up bracket on the swim platform, but I'm afraid it will still go under the water when planing.

10HP seems like enough power to move 3t boat. I would be happier with less power (and kilos), but not sure if that will be sufficient when conditions are not ideal.

I too had considered this but, as Pleinmont said, I concluded that an outboard powerful enough would be dangerous heavy to maneuver in a seaway onto the swim platform bracket. The best arrangement I found was this bracket on an inclined track but did not do it
Aux outboard on 760.JPG

Another method would be a bracket that can be rotated 90 degrees after the motor is raised so to lays along the swim platform

 

[Forp]

Thank you guys!
This seems like the most functional option Aux outboard on 760.JPG, but it is not eye apealing (at least to me ).
I need more thinking or better to say overthinking.

I'll install Minn Kota in the future so maybe it can provide small help if necessary.

 

[John Willis]

Excellent thread, but changing the subject, still referring to Antares 760s, apologies if I should have dived in elsewhere.

I have recently changed the rollers on my sliding door, which made me look at the sliding windows. My 760 is a 2006 model and the lining of the channels in which the windows slide look ripe for replacement.

Has anyone removed the windows and or sourced replacement window channels?

I have emailed the local Beneteau dealer, but don't live in hope as I received no response last time.

 

[Plum]

Excellent thread, but changing the subject, still referring to Antares 760s, apologies if I should have dived in elsewhere.

I have recently changed the rollers on my sliding door, which made me look at the sliding windows. My 760 is a 2006 model and the lining of the channels in which the windows slide look ripe for replacement.

Has anyone removed the windows and or sourced replacement window channels?

I have emailed the local Beneteau dealer, but don't live in hope as I received no response last time.

I did investigate replacing the flocked rubber channels and there are many to choose from eg EPDM Flocked Lined Rubber Sliding Window Channel - Durable and Weather
And did find that if you lift the aft end of the lower rubber channel you can see one of the screws that retain the lower aluminium channel so I assume, by sliding the window to access the screws you will be able to pull the lower channel towards you (from outside) then lower it to extract from the upper channel.
However, I did not go ahead as I fitted a long plastic strip in the base of the lower rubber channel without removing anything. The window now slides on this plastic strip. This made a significant difference to the effort needed to slide the window and I have been satisfied with the result for 3 years now!

Edit: John, just realised you are the author of the article about your Antares 760 in the latest PBO magazine. Well done.

 

[John Willis]

That's very helpful Plum. Thanks. If replacing the door rollers s anything to go by, Beneteau know you will one day be needing to sort windows and hopefully make it relatively easy in the same way