3D Printers

[Hurricane]

This is a new toy for me. I bought one about 2/3 months ago and I am having a huge amount of fun with it.
With lots of patience, there are loads of things that you can make for your boat.
Replacement parts of course but also new ideas as they come along.
For example, we got to the boat about a month ago to find that one of the solar panel glands (seals where the wires pass into the boat) had been broken - probably by the cleaning lady.
Not completely her fault - the plastic from the old ones hasn't stood up to the strong Med UV - gone brittle.
I don't want to pull all the wires back to thread in new glands so I set my mind about making a bespoke gland.
This is the old gland - note the cracks


And this is the my CAD design for the replacement
The idea is that I will cut the old one off and thread the new gland in.



I've been playing around with different plastics but this is the kind of result that I've been getting.
Please excuse the colour - that is just a prototype so any filament will do whilst prototyping it.


The end result will be white - and will probably made from ASA but I've been testing ABS.

After a fair bit of research, I chose to buy a Bambu Labs X1C printer with the multi colour AMS unit.
These machines have come a long way in the last few years.
The last time I looked, the results were very poor.
But now, 3D printers have become really good and certainly have a place.

Another example that I'm working on (the printer is making it whilst I'm typing this) is a replacement Windlass Controller cradle for a friend.
This is the old broken one


And this is the design for the replacement one that is printing at the moment.


It is actually version 2 - the first one wasn't strong enough so this one is beef'd up.
I'm also printing this next one completely solid - most 3D prints have infill patterns to save material and speed up the printing process.

I've also written some crude Javascript to include some 3D Javascript libraries so that I can share my 3D designs with friends.
That Javascript resides on my internet server,
I upload the 3D files onto my internet server and link to them.
For example, this is a link to the above Windlass Controller bracket.
If you click this link, you can pan/zoom etc around the design.
stl 3D viewer

Anyway, as I say, I am having a huge amount of fun doing this kind of thing.

There will be loads of other stuff to make.

 

[Kendal]

Your CAD work looks very impressive. What software are you using? I've had my 3D printer for about 6 years now and have printed a few parts for the boat such as a new surround for the Rule bilge pump which has now been in place for 5 years. I like using ABS and I find I get good strength with about 50% infill for non load bearing parts. I've also done a lot with TPU to make some more flexible parts.

 

[Hurricane]

Your CAD work looks very impressive. What software are you using? I've had my 3D printer for about 6 years now and have printed a few parts for the boat such as a new surround for the Rule bilge pump which has now been in place for 5 years. I like using ABS and I find I get good strength with about 50% infill for non load bearing parts. I've also done a lot with TPU to make some more flexible parts.

I haven't had it long enough to work out what material for what job yet.
Most of my printing has been using PLA which is what they suggest when you start.
However, I have played with some TPU - really interesting.
Again - not sure where to use it
I've also played with PETG which is supposed to be stronger than PLA.
I believe that ABS is stronger than both PLA and PETG
But I understand that ASA is the best for external UV use

For software, I'm a great believer in Open Source Software.
I don't like being trapped into paying huge amounts as I get "sucked into" software.
So, I'm using FreeCAD which does seem to do everything I want but it is a challenge.
Mind you, the 3D world is a challenge anyway.
FreeCAD is just about to launch its Version 1.0 - this is a big thing for FreeCAD
Lots of new features - especially in the 2D Sketcher
Multi Platform (MAC, Linux and Windoze)
And, being Open Source - it is free - just download and use it.

 

[Refueler]

I have been 3D printing for years - but never got the hang of CAD ...

I prowl the internet and sites such as Cults and Thingiverse for items .... using Meshmixer I can alter to suit ...

I've produced locker surrounds ... sail protectors for spreaders on mast .... false transducers .... radio boxes ..... microphone holders ... sunshades for tablets / plotters ..... display covers .... compass bowl covers ... all sorts of things
I needed a new curtain rod holder on my 38 .... will be replacing all the others later.

Note about ABS ... this is one of the filaments that is advised to have extraction ventilation to outside due to toxic fumes ....

Hawker Hunter and a couple of Vampires - all RC flight models ....

I have Laser cutter as well ... I can cut / engrave name plates in wood ... vinyl ... etc.

 

[Hurricane]

I have been 3D printing for years - but never got the hang of CAD ...

I prowl the internet and sites such as Cults and Thingiverse for items .... using Meshmixer I can alter to suit ...

I've produced locker surrounds ... sail protectors for spreaders on mast .... false transducers .... radio boxes ..... microphone holders ... sunshades for tablets / plotters ..... display covers .... compass bowl covers ... all sorts of things
I needed a new curtain rod holder on my 38 .... will be replacing all the others later.

Note about ABS ... this is one of the filaments that is advised to have extraction ventilation to outside due to toxic fumes ....

Hawker Hunter and a couple of Vampires - all RC flight models ....

I have Laser cutter as well ... I can cut / engrave name plates in wood ... vinyl ... etc.

Have a go at FreeCAD - freed to download and use.
You can start really simply - stick to the Part Design Workbench
This video shows how easy it is

In that video, the presenter goes a little deeper than necessary for an introduction to FreeCAD.
For example if you aren't worried about dimensions, you don't have to constrain anything but he does explain constraints fairly well.
Of course, if you want properly scaled designs, you have to constrain the dimensions etc.
But to start, just open a 2D sketch, draw a rectangle, close the sketch and then PAD it (FreeCAD's name for Extruding).

It is very satisfying and doesn't cost you anything to try - all the software is free.

 

[Refueler]

I have Freecad ....

I also had the simple free version that was developed from Autocad - but then Autocad decided to end it ...

 

[Hurricane]

I also had the simple free version that was developed from Autocad - but then Autocad decided to end it ...

Yep - thats the reason that I always use Open Source software.

 

[Hurricane]

The finished Windlass controller bracket.

 

[simonfraser]

Can you post the CAD file for that bracket on a sites somewhere ?

gotta be more peeps interested in this ....

The finished Windlass controller bracket.

View attachment 179830

View attachment 179831

 

[Bigplumbs]

They are amazing things I have 3 Printers and a new one to set up. Good fun in the winter months

 

[Refueler]

They are amazing things I have 3 Printers and a new one to set up. Good fun in the winter months

Get a Laser machine - then you are in for goodies !!

I have a standard K40 ..... thinking about a larger machine with at least 1m x 1m work area ... even just transfer K40 workings to longer rails etc

 

[roa312]

Does anyone have experience with consumer-grade 3D scanners and know if they can transfer items accurately into CAD software? I'm very tempted to get into 3D printing, primarily as a way to replace broken items, possibly with slight improvements. However, I feel like learning to design and draw items from scratch in CAD might be too time-consuming, but that's just my gut feeling?

 

[Refueler]

I have a scanner that is mounted with a turntable ... not the hand held that you often see online. is it used ? I tried but the 3D imaging was not as I expected or as advertised. Certain colours and angles defeat the scanner and you end up having to load into a processing program ...
Success ? Rare unfortunately.

I feel I should have bought a hand held ... judging by reviews etc - I think they may work better.

You may be interested to know that there is a program out there that takes multiple photos taken with a standard digital camera and combines into a 3D image for processing. You do not need a scanner.

3d Scan Anything Using Just a Camera

 

[Hurricane]

I fear that 3D scanning is a technology a step to far but I've not looked into it yet.

The big issue that I have when designing and printing 3D models is to have the original source code to work with.
One of the best features of modern 3D design software is the ability to make parametric models.
That means that all the dimensional and positioning data along with any operations carried out on that data can be changed - on the fly.
It is quite difficult to do - with any software.
But once you have a model working para-metrically, you can drive the dimensions with a spreadsheet.
Not sure about Fusion because I don't use it but FreeCAD incorporates a Spreadsheet Workbench specifically for this.
For example I made this project as an exercise in parametric modelling
The only difference between these two models is the dimensional data that I changed in the spreadsheet.
In the following images, I have split the screen windows so that you can see the spreadsheet and its associated model.





It is a very simple exercise but it shows how powerful parametric modelling is.
And I'm no expert - just been dabbling with the software for about 4 months.
Each model I make, I learn something new.

If you interchange model designs between different brands of software and (I assume the same would apply from a from a 3D scanner), you loose the base data and thus this ability.
I'm sure you can do all this stuff within specific applications (Fusion for example) but when you export models, you have to use standard formats like STEP and STL etc.
None of which contain the basic design information.
There are processes in these CAD packages to import different formats but there doesn't seem to be a standard that would encompass all the base design criteria.

The bracket that I've just finished went through 4 "prototype" prints before I got what I wanted.
Each time was an iteration from the previous model.
I was able to change the dimensions within all the 2D sketches (even after they had been extruded/lofted etc) and the model instantly reflected the changes.
A lot of people would expect that to happen but sometimes I find myself asking the software to make something impossible.
But is is a great learning curve.

@simonfraser - yes, I am more than happy to post my design on a server - and there are loads out there for that kind of thing.
But, as I say above, people would expect me to provide the STL print files - great if you want EXACTLY the same as the one I printed.
Then if you want to make some "tweaks", you would need the main source file.
In this case, that is not a problem because I could post (and I'm happy to do so) the FreeCAD .FCStd source file.

I hope you understand what I am saying.

 

[LiftyK]

One of my loo seat hinges broke. A quick search on Yeggi (it searches 3D model libraries) for “Jabsco” led me to a design ready to print. This is very satisfying.

 

[Hurricane]

One of my loo seat hinges broke. A quick search on Yeggi (it searches 3D model libraries) for “Jabsco” led me to a design ready to print. This is very satisfying.

Interesting - this has got to be the way forward.

 

[Refueler]

Interesting - this has got to be the way forward.

Yes .. but it has to be remembered that any 3D printed item will not have the same strength continuity through the item as a moulded / poured item ... this is because 3D print items rely on layer adhesion of each layer laid in each pass.

You can take a 3D print and bend to make layers separate. This is one of the reasons filament choice is so important ... not only for the material specifics - but also its layer bonding.

 

[roa312]

One of my loo seat hinges broke. A quick search on Yeggi (it searches 3D model libraries) for “Jabsco” led me to a design ready to print. This is very satisfying.

I watched several YouTube videos on the subject and noticed another option if no library template is available. Many people recommend using freelance platforms where experienced 3D modelers offer their services at very reasonable prices. From what I understand, they only need a few pictures and measurements to provide a full model ready for printing (see for instance Fiverr). Although I haven't bought a 3D printer yet, I would be very keen to try this out if I needed to replace some hard-to-get or overly expensive little item.

 

[Hurricane]

Yes .. but it has to be remembered that any 3D printed item will not have the same strength continuity through the item as a moulded / poured item ... this is because 3D print items rely on layer adhesion of each layer laid in each pass.

You can take a 3D print and bend to make layers separate. This is one of the reasons filament choice is so important ... not only for the material specifics - but also its layer bonding.

I've only been doing this for a few months. Before that when I looked at the printers 8 years ago, I would have agreed with you but the quality of the printers these days have significantly improved. That said, I am in the process of testing different materials. For that Windlass bracket, my print using ABS is significantly stronger than the original manufacturers offering.

Also note that 3D print slicers (the software that prepares a model for printing) by default will set up the print for 15% infill. This means that in large areas, the final print is hollow. On the Windlass bracket, I set my slicer software to produce the final print with 100% infill (in other words solid). I've yet to be sure but I believe that will make it stronger.

Also, I have the benefit of hindsight. I know where the manufacturers part broke so I can pay particular attention and make the whole model stronger in those areas.

 

[Hurricane]

I watched several YouTube videos on the subject and noticed another option if no library template is available. Many people recommend using freelance platforms where experienced 3D modelers offer their services at very reasonable prices. From what I understand, they only need a few pictures and measurements to provide a full model ready for printing (see for instance Fiverr). Although I haven't bought a 3D printer yet, I would be very keen to try this out if I needed to replace some hard-to-get or overly expensive little item.

Depends on the complexity of the job but I'm not sure that I could design a print job with just a photo and some measurements.

BTW do you realise how cheap these printers are?
I paid "over the odds" and bought a Bambu Lab X1 Carbon at a little over 1300 quid complete with the 4 colour module.
See here Bambu Lab X1-Carbon 3D Printer
But you can get started with the Bambu Labs A1 single colour for as little as £169.
See here Bambu Lab A1 mini 3D Printer
They call the A1 a "Bed Slinger" because it moves the print bed in the Y plane
The A 1 isn't enclosed so it would be more difficult to print ABS and ASA filaments which have the better UV properties.
Filament is typically £16 for 1Kg if you buy 5 or more rolls at a time.
Those prices are from Bambu themselves for PLA, PETG and ABS - ASA is about £28 per roll
So, all in all quite affordable.

Bambu have a unique feature that probably "locks you into them" - their rolls of filament have an "inbuilt" RFID tag that the printer recognises and sets itself up accordingly. Long gone has the time when you had to tweak the print/bed temperatures.

These guys at Bambu really know their stuff - guess where they have come from?
The guys that have set up Bambu are the same guys who started DJI drones!!!