Windlass why electric

[ashtead]

We have a Quick below the hatch though and not on deck but while it works not certain would have another. The pins on the hand control connected rusted through in a couple of years requiring a replacement cable. I suspect though Hanse got a cheap deal from Quick as did other makes so they seem quite common but if I was replacing Quick seems rather cheap brand and while I don’t know prices differences would be looking at the L brands mentioned. I suspect at 28 it’s a marginal call but clear depends on age. If you want hydraulics buy yourself a little Jongert and you get hydraulic in boom reefing and bowthruster as well .

 

[Tranona]

We have a Quick below the hatch though and not on deck but while it works not certain would have another. The pins on the hand control connected rusted through in a couple of years requiring a replacement cable. I suspect though Hanse got a cheap deal from Quick as did other makes so they seem quite common but if I was replacing Quick seems rather cheap brand and while I don’t know prices differences would be looking at the L brands mentioned. I suspect at 28 it’s a marginal call but clear depends on age. If you want hydraulics buy yourself a little Jongert and you get hydraulic in boom reefing and bowthruster as well .

Lofrans went through a sticky patch 10-12 years ago going bust, being bought out by another that went bust again. As a consequence lost a lot of OE business such as all Bavarias. The Cayman 88 such as I had on my 37 is still the best buy in the sub 12m provided you take steps to deal with potential corrosion. The Lewmar now used in that sector is nowhere near as good. The one on my 33 only lasted 5 years and maybe 250 anchoring cycles before the motor burned out. It is however easy to take apart and not to expensive to replace the motor. I have a Lofrans Kobra on the current boat which seems OK. Best thing for windlasses is a remote as the wired in switches either hand set or foot buttons are weak points.

 

[geem]

Lofrans went through a sticky patch 10-12 years ago going bust, being bought out by another that went bust again. As a consequence lost a lot of OE business such as all Bavarias. The Cayman 88 such as I had on my 37 is still the best buy in the sub 12m provided you take steps to deal with potential corrosion. The Lewmar now used in that sector is nowhere near as good. The one on my 33 only lasted 5 years and maybe 250 anchoring cycles before the motor burned out. It is however easy to take apart and not to expensive to replace the motor. I have a Lofrans Kobra on the current boat which seems OK. Best thing for windlasses is a remote as the wired in switches either hand set or foot buttons are weak points.

We have the same foot switches for the last 12 years. Been faultless.

 

[Neeves]

I, like Vyv, can recommend Maxwell, no issues with the windlass, easy to clean and service, Works faultessly. They have an enviable support, someone is on duty 24/7/365. Their philosophy is that people use their windlass during weekends and holidays, including Xmas, so people are nominated to give cover - and it works.

Jonathan

 

[Tranona]

We have the same foot switches for the last 12 years. Been faultless.

Just not my experience and I find a hand held control easier to use.

 

[Graham376]

I have a Lofrans Kobra on the current boat which seems OK. Best thing for windlasses is a remote as the wired in switches either hand set or foot buttons are weak points.

My Kobra now 21 years old, never been serviced and no problems - so far. I mainly use wireless remote but have foot switches as backup, which are also 21 years old but have the advantage of being below anchor locker lid, as is the windlass.

 

[thinwater]

Not true. Our Falkon easily hauls us forward. It depends on the windlass. Of course if you fit a small one lightweight unit, it won't be up to the job

Agreed. We all do that. But the manual will tell you not to.

Also, What Norman says is very true. If you wind in during the lulls and then let the catenary pull the boat up, and then repeat, that helps a lot. We're not supposed to, but we all do.

I just wanted the OP to know that there are limits. If you just hit the button into waves you will wear the gypsy and perhaps trip/ovreheat the motor. Moderation is the key.

I wouldn't have a chain rode in this age without a windlass. However, a 27' boat can be happy with a combination rode, in which case a windlass is a bit of overkill for most sailors.

 

[thinwater]

I'm not wild about foot switches. IF the boat is bouncing in the waves it is difficult to have good control. And if you fall on one the windlass just keeps grinding.

 

[geem]

I'm not wild about foot switches. IF the boat is bouncing in the waves it is difficult to have good control. And if you fall on one the windlass just keeps grinding.

I guess it depends on the boat. We were in the fortunate position to be able to lay out our foredeck area perfectly. Foot switches are used 99% of the time. We ditched the remote. We have windlass controls in the cockpit but if you position foot switches perfectly, you need no other solution ( on our boat)

 

[vyv_cox]

We have the same foot switches for the last 12 years. Been faultless.

I fitted mine with the windlass, 1999 I think. Used countless times, totally reliable. Ours have plastic flaps over the button part which keeps UV off the elastomer.

 

[oldbloke]

On our 30'er I use my arms. No major problems with corrosion after 70yrs. Much quicker than a manual windlass, although I do get the point about the control being at the other end of the boat. A big bonus is modern anchors and anchor chain theory meaning much less weight to lift.

 

[Tranona]

This is the setup on my GH. The Kobra under the smart new cover was fitted just before I bought the boat 2 years ago and one switch has never worked. silly layout as the switches are so far away from the business end of the anchoring. going back further my charter Bavaria foot switches lasted less than 2 years and replaced with a wired lead through the forehatch and later a wireless remote. On the later 33 I had a a Sidepower wireless remote for the thruster and windlass so have done the same on the GH. You can see why I did this.

 

[Neeves]

I'm thinking of putting a windlass to pull the anchor up on my modest 28 footer ,

Thinking outside the box.

Its your word, a 'modest' 28' yacht.

It needs a small anchor, could be aluminium and weighs little, it really does not need large hefty chain. It will do your wallet a favour and you can cancel the gym membership but why not forget, any, the windlass and retrieve by hand.

I know it sounds very 19th century......

.....Save the luxury till when you can invest (?) in the (less modest, call it - bigger), yacht that actually needs, or the owner thinks he needs, the windlass.

Adding a simple electric windlass or a hydraulic windlass is not cheap.

We sailed and cruised a J24 and then an X-99, admittedly in the 'olden days' (at the birth of leisure GPS and before Spade), anchored over night and I retrieved by hand. But then I was both - an impecunious sailer and a parsimonious Scot. (21st Century young sailors go to the gym, pay a gardener to cut their lawn, use a car wash, think a Spade is for the same gardener, and would never be on a yacht without an electric windlass)

Times and standards change, not always necessarily for the better.

Jonathan

 

[billyfish]

My last boat was 28 foot but weighed 9 ton with a keel that ran the length of the boat same manual windlass and was no problem for 10 years. My new boat is the same length but half the weight and half the keel. So in any breeze she yaws about all over the place add tide and its almost impossible as the anchor chain is through a captive fairlead. Now maybe I shouldn't have changed boats but I don't have to sit outside in the cold while sailing which is wonderful in the UK. She was built in Finland and they must know something of colder climate. And maybe they don't anchor so much.

 

[geem]

This is the setup on my GH. The Kobra under the smart new cover was fitted just before I bought the boat 2 years ago and one switch has never worked. silly layout as the switches are so far away from the business end of the anchoring. going back further my charter Bavaria foot switches lasted less than 2 years and replaced with a wired lead through the forehatch and later a wireless remote. On the later 33 I had a a Sidepower wireless remote for the thruster and windlass so have done the same on the GH. You can see why I did this.

This is our foredeck layout. The foot switches have flip up covers so the switch isn't exposed to UV.
Works perfectly. I guess there are different quality of footswitches

 

[penberth3]

.....But why is the leasure industry flooded with electric ones it seams mad to me to put a electric item right on the bow in all the weather. Why not hydraulic ?......

Cost and weight. Electric motor, or electric motor + hydraulic pump + hydraulic motor + oil tank + oil. Not a difficult decision.

 

[billyfish]

In my naivety I thought a pump straight off the engine pully, electric clutch (like AC) through to control lever onto pump on the windlass. Why to simple for a boat.

 

[Bouba]

I have always been amazed at how many times I see boats retrieve their anchor and THEN start their engines
Then again many people while in port take in their fenders before they begin to move…and my favourite, which is more common than not…people pull up to the dock and then go to the locker get their ropes out, untangle them then attach them to their cleats
I feel better now

 

[rogerthebodger]

Cost and weight. Electric motor, or electric motor + hydraulic pump + hydraulic motor + oil tank + oil. Not a difficult decision.

Yes but in additional to those hydraulic components even if the pump is driven from the engine you need a 3 position hydraulic valve to operate the flow in either direction plus a return flow when the windlass in not oprating. It would also be advisable to install a pressure relief valve to prevent overpressure if the windlass ceases

 

[ean_p]

Yes but in additional to those hydraulic components even if the pump is driven from the engine you need a 3 position hydraulic valve to operate the flow in either direction plus a return flow when the windlass in not oprating. It would also be advisable to install a pressure relief valve to prevent overpressure if the windlass ceases

And a reservoir that will also enable the oil to cool should you leave it circulating .........