Volvo

[Coldevolution]

I have a Volvo 5.7 Gi E that after winterisation suffered a cracked block. Trying to locate a block and getting quoted prices around 10k from Volvo to 1k from GM suppliers doing old Chevy engines.
Im being told the Volvo engine uses a Votec 880 block which is a GM block. First trying to find out the casting numbers to see if I can at minimum agree this is the block. Most of these blocks are known as re manufactured which means honing or boring out a few mm... and what that means with the swap over of parts. I see people have repaired these with JB weld material and got good use from the repair... Really not sure what way to approach.
Any thoughts to finding a block to replace if numbers stack up, and any experience on JB weld... considering I believe the water jacket is around 15psi... Heads wrecked... Engine before the problem was purring like a kitten and could see near 50 knots on the Crown 220. Thank you for any advice in advance.

 

[Coldevolution]

Oops just noticed.... my head not the engine head....

 

[Seastoke]

Oops just noticed.... my head not the engine head....

We had on a boat many years ago welded in situ was fine

 

[scottie]

Lancing marine may well be a one stop shop answer

 

[Freebee]

depending where the crack is -perhaps it can be repaired by peening over threaded pins :

Engine Block and Head Repair - Engine Builder Magazine

 

[QBhoy]

Many have been repaired, with varied success..but worst case, you can get a new vortec block for a few thousand. Cost kept down by using your current top end, injection system and ecu etc. auxiliary items like alternator and starter too.

 

[ChromeDome]

I've seen this happen on winterized sea water cooled V8's when coolant had been run through the water jacket at idle.

The problem is that the thermostat won't open at idle, regardless of how long it runs, hence leaving plain water in there.

Number locations:

 

[ChromeDome]

As an indication of price levels over there:
5.7L (350ci) Volvo Penta Gi Base Engine, 300hp (1999-2015)

 

[ChromeDome]

If interested, PM me your email address and I'll send over the workshop manual.

6.5 mb - too big for attaching here.

 

[Coldevolution]

Thank you all for the input, difficult deciding best and most economical approach, as I do not want to do this twice... (Repair with JB weld) Would rely on knowing where all cracks are hence full strip down... which will be 1k at least..
Will look into suggested repairer in relation postage both directions and repair quality for cost of all in complete labour etc...
ChromeDome (like myself lol) Thank you for the extra info on checking casting numbers and concerns on winterisation, quite worrying.. Also found a US supplier for engine as link... Asked what price on Block alone. As I'm at this point assuming block damage only... I will send PM ref workshop manual would be very useful. Once again Thank you all...

 

[Coldevolution]

If interested, PM me your email address and I'll send over the workshop manual.

6.5 mb - too big for attaching here.

I think Im blocked from sending PM as too new. If you could send me a PM I should be able to reply. Apologies...

 

[ChromeDome]

Oh, as a new member you probably aren't allowed to send PMs yet.

You may send an email to scam[at]post.com

 

[PaulRainbow]

Cracks should be easy to find, as long as none internal.

Cast can be welded on site, depending where the crack is.

Or, drill a 3mm hole at each end of the crack and screw a self tapper in, then drill hole between those two screws and install more self tappers. Then grind all the heads off and drill holes between that first set of screws, grind off and repeat until no more holes left.

It is also possible to do this by drilling and tapping holes and screwing threaded rod in, but it takes longer.

 

[stelican]

I've seen this happen on winterized sea water cooled V8's when coolant had been run through the water jacket at idle.

The problem is that the thermostat won't open at idle, regardless of how long it runs, hence leaving plain water in there.

Number locations:
View attachment 168985

Interested to hear how you overcome the cooling water by-passing the block

 

[ChromeDome]

By removing the thermostat, disconnecting the hoses and opening all drain plugs.

Pretty much in line with Volvo's guideline in the Workshop Manual

 

[Coldevolution]

Cracks should be easy to find, as long as none internal.

Cast can be welded on site, depending where the crack is.

Or, drill a 3mm hole at each end of the crack and screw a self tapper in, then drill hole between those two screws and install more self tappers. Then grind all the heads off and drill holes between that first set of screws, grind off and repeat until no more holes left.

It is also possible to do this by drilling and tapping holes and screwing threaded rod in, but it takes longer.

Thank you.. for the method.. will know more once we get into it.. would be nice to get her ready for the season..

 

[GrahamHR]

Thank you.. for the method.. will know more once we get into it.. would be nice to get her ready for the season..

Whilst you have it apart, fit a closed cooling system. Block, inlet manifold, water pump and heads cooled in an antifreeze solution.

Winterization? Just the exhaust manifolds/ risers/ heat exchanger, flush with freshwater to get rid of the salt and drain.

Retrofitted to a Four Winns 225 1999 5.7GSi after 1 year use in saltwater after the water pump failed due to corrosion near a seal, retrofitted to a "new" 2004 Four Winns 245 boat with a 5.7GXi in 2005 before use in saltwater. No problems up to when we sold it in 2014. Also a Neutrasalt system on both so the exhaust system lasted a long time. Bought 2 brand new Volvo Penta risers off Ebay for a stupidly low price in 2012 (only 1 bid and I came in at the last moment: £60 delivered if I remembered correctly !). I did fit them, but to be honest the originals were almost as good.

Money upfront but it paid off .

We wish we never sold the 2004 5.7 GXi powered boat; traded in against a boat with a VP D4- 300 EVC diesel in the mistaken belief it would be more economical/ reliable. What a mistake and real waste of money..

 

[Coldevolution]

Whilst you have it apart, fit a closed cooling system. Block, inlet manifold, water pump and heads cooled in an antifreeze solution.

Winterization? Just the exhaust manifolds/ risers/ heat exchanger, flush with freshwater to get rid of the salt and drain.

Retrofitted to a Four Winns 225 1999 5.7GSi after 1 year use in saltwater after the water pump failed due to corrosion near a seal, retrofitted to a "new" 2004 Four Winns 245 boat with a 5.7GXi in 2005 before use in saltwater. No problems up to when we sold it in 2014. Also a Neutrasalt system on both so the exhaust system lasted a long time. Bought 2 brand new Volvo Penta risers off Ebay for a stupidly low price in 2012 (only 1 bid and I came in at the last moment: £60 delivered if I remembered correctly !). I did fit them, but to be honest the originals were almost as good.

Money upfront but it paid off .

We wish we never sold the 2004 5.7 GXi powered boat; traded in against a boat with a VP D4- 300 EVC diesel in the mistaken belief it would be more economical/ reliable. What a mistake and real waste of money..

Interesting idea on the closed loop idea... I was thinking about converting to diesel at one point, but was pointed out speed down to 30 knots and not a huge saving in fuel plus cost of engine and ancillary required controller etc.
Will post again once we get the lump out to work at...

 

[GrahamHR]

Interesting idea on the closed loop idea... I was thinking about converting to diesel at one point, but was pointed out speed down to 30 knots and not a huge saving in fuel plus cost of engine and ancillary required controller etc.
Will post again once we get the lump out to work at...

I made a T piece/ hose etc., attached to the raw water pump inlet to allow flushing of the 1999 5.7GSi exhausts.

The 2004 5.7 GXi-F. It had a T piece in the raw water pump inlet as standard that allowed flushing via an attached hose/ USA garden hose coupling. I put a stainless ball valve and a hozelock male coupling on the end , with a hozelock blank cap retained on the bracket with a thin stainless braided cable and made a bracket to hold the assembly in place. I'm not certain when that type of flush pipework was fitted, maybe before the "F" series? If not, I recommend you retrofit it.

 

[Coldevolution]

I made a T piece/ hose etc., attached to the raw water pump inlet to allow flushing of the 1999 5.7GSi exhausts.

The 2004 5.7 GXi-F. It had a T piece in the raw water pump inlet as standard that allowed flushing via an attached hose/ USA garden hose coupling. I put a stainless ball valve and a hozelock male coupling on the end , with a hozelock blank cap retained on the bracket with a thin stainless braided cable and made a bracket to hold the assembly in place. I'm not certain when that type of flush pipework was fitted, maybe before the "F" series? If not, I recommend you retrofit it.

The boat has only seen fresh water as we are close to Lough Derg, Killaloe, Ireland. Being fresh, the risk of freezing of trapped water is much greater. I must do a bit more research on the idea of closed loop or better flushing system to remove all water.. Wonder does the temp get much higher running when out for a fast spin? Could put a digital thermometer on the casing to have a secondary check on running temp. What amount of water anti freeze mix would one use.... A lot of study required... At this point just need to get her going as it will be Spring next week... (Time goes very fast these days) Thank you again everyone for all the replies and advice... Thank you ChromeDome for the workshop manual, and pointing out the position of casting number.