UK cruising/circumnavigation planning - big questions so far

Doodles_McStrife

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Hi All,

My partner and I have a charter yacht (31ft, fixed 1.6m draught) from mid-August this year to the Start of November, out of Portsmouth. Its insurance covers it up to 20nm off the coast of the UK and it will just be the two of us crewing.

With a UK scale chart and almanac in hand I'm starting to work out how far we can realistically get in this time and whether a circumnavigation (via the Caledonian Canal) is realistic at all. Given that this is a charter, we do have to be back to Portsmouth on time, so in all cases we'll be carefully watching our timing and planning the remaining (or backwards!) passage to make sure we don't get caught out. We see this as more of a cruising holiday than an all out attempt to get around the country, so generally don't intend to be doing long overnight passages with single-handed watches.

Looking around online, it seems most typical for people to go around anti-clockwise, but one of my major concerns is that if our progress is slow and we are forced to return down the east coast, we will have missed out on everything on the west coast. My gut instinct is that if we are to stay stuck on one side of Great Britain, it should be the West.

Firstly, I'd love any thoughts on what I've noted so far from those with experience of a circumnavigation (or part thereof).

In starting to plan the clockwise circumnavigation (very roughly), I have come up against the following:

a) Depending on prevailing winds, the passage around Land's End from a starting point of Penzance (close to the tidal gate to help get the timing right) might end up being a continuous passage all the way to Lundy (100nm or so!), because our fixed 1.6m draught will not allow us to make use of drying ports on the North Cornwall coast and the few and far between anchorages may not be sheltered. Relying on Padstow also appears to be quite a risk as the entry and exit over the bar is very dependent on conditions. Would you just wait until the right weather window for being able to anchor at St. Ives before making the rounding?

b) Without overnight passages, my estimates make the journey from Portsmouth to Lundy approximately 12 days if we sail every day (which is weather dependent). That's with a rough plan of overnights at: Lymington, Portland, Bridport, Torquay, Salcombe, Plymouth, Fowey, Falmouth, ?, Penzance, ?, Lundy. Extrapolating this progress very roughly (270nm bee line along coast over 12 days), I make it about a month and a half to get up to the Firth of Lorne, which doesn't leave us enough time to get up the canal and back down the east coast (based on the same rate). On that basis I'd also be worried about getting all the way up to the Caledonian Canal and back down the west in time, given that we could get caught out with tides and weather trying to round Land's End again and Portland Bill to get back to Portsmouth on time. What are people's thoughts on the rate of progress estimation?

I haven't yet started looking at the anti-clockwise options and rate of progress, but on the assumption that we can't make it up to the Caledonian Canal, is there any argument for being on the east coast?

That's all for now - thanks in advance!
 

Mark-1

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Sounds like a great idea and a great trip and I really like the idea of a lengthy charter to do it!

I presume the charter company/guy will be responsible for fixing any issues/worn out stuff during the trip, is he happy to perform that function from a fair distance away?

The 20 miles seems needlessly restrictive. Could you get the charterer to arrange better insurance at your expense which I'd imagine would be trivial? Or is it do do with coding? It would be a tiny additional cost to allow you to use Ireland and continental Europe for 'long tacks' where the wind direction dictates.

I've never done it but if it were me I'd go West and Northwards up the West coast to have the prevailing wind in favour where there's less shelter and then come back down the East Coast in the lee of the Island for the more leg with less favorable wind. As you suggest, if you make poorer progress than expected you get more time in the 'nice' bit. (If few people do that maybe there's a flaw I haven't spotted!)

Having said all that, the nicest part of your trip will be the west Coast of Scotland. Why not just charter there and spend the months there?
 

onesea

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My honest advice? At that time of year, it could easily become very arduous.
It’s autumn you can expect some persistent gales, it will be getting cold the nights will be drawing in.

It’s not the time of year I would be looking to circumnavigate unless you had no return date set.

Winter weather can be a fickle beast.
It’s about 25-30 days non stop sailing to circumnavigate the UK non stop on that size boat. You can play with numbers for canals etc.
However you have 2 clear months to get round that means sailing every other day. To make the passage round, IMHO it will be to rushed to enjoy.
 

ridgy

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Seems unlikely heading in to shortened days and worsening weather and unlikely the charter company would agree to it.

Concerto went round last year and he's a motivated guy in a well found boat and I think it took him longer than 10 weeks in peak season.

If it was your own boat you've always the option to leave it somewhere for the winter and carry on next spring.

Unless you already know the south coast really well there is plenty of fun to be had exploring the Scillies and Cornwall.
 

Mark-1

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My honest advice? At that time of year, it could easily become very arduous.
It’s autumn you can expect some persistent gales, it will be getting cold the nights will be drawing in.

It’s not the time of year I would be looking to circumnavigate unless you had no return date set.

Winter weather can be a fickle beast.
It’s about 25-30 days non stop sailing to circumnavigate the UK non stop on that size boat. You can play with numbers for canals etc.
However you have 2 clear months to get round that means sailing every other day. To make the passage round, IMHO it will be to rushed to enjoy.

I hadn't spotted the 'mid-August' angle of this. My brain parsed "summer". Summer is over by August and the days are already getting short fast (you lose two hours of daylight per day over the school summer holidays). I was thinking this was a summer and autumn trip. In fact, it's really autumn and winter and as you go North winter starts much earlier.

Seems much less pain to get that offshore limit extended and spend the time on the South Coast of the UK and France.
 
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AngusMcDoon

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That is the wrong time of year to do that trip. The best time to be on the west coast of Scotland is now, mid May to mid June. After that it goes downhill & August is often 'orrible. The unwritten rule is to be off the west coast of Scotland by the end of August. Then the equinoctial gales start - wet and windy. Many years ago I tried to get south down the North Channel in October. After 10 days of persistent strong SW winds I gave up in Stranraer & went home. I retrieved the boat in November during a period of autumnal anticyclonic gloom.
 

Tranona

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Agree with others and particularly post#9. Simply wrong time of the year to contemplate such an ambitious plan. The combination of reducing daylight hours and increasing adverse weather conditions are against you.

The question really is how to get the most use out of the 10 weeks or so that you have the boat, given that you are restricted effectively to 20 miles from the coast ruling out the much more interesting north and west French coast, and even the Isles of Scilly. You might make as far as Milford Haven by mid September given the challenge of the Bristol Channel without the option of cutting straight across and still get back to Portsmouth by the end of October. However the return trip will be hard work as the weather worsens.
 

srm

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Having sailed up and down both east and west coasts I much prefer the west. Work your way down channel and around Lands End. However your insurance is very restrictive. It does not allow a passage from St Ives to Milford Haven so as to avoid the tides involved going up into the Bristol Channel. Likewise it rules out the Isle of Man and east coast of the Republic of Ireland.
Once you get well into September weather is likely to be a serious problem. If you get as far as the Caledonian Canal you then face a long slog down the east coast, or turn back down the west coast with short days, cold weather and probably a fair number of days holed up somewhere out of season waiting for suitable weather.
 

capnsensible

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My honest advice? At that time of year, it could easily become very arduous.
It’s autumn you can expect some persistent gales, it will be getting cold the nights will be drawing in.

It’s not the time of year I would be looking to circumnavigate unless you had no return date set.

Winter weather can be a fickle beast.
It’s about 25-30 days non stop sailing to circumnavigate the UK non stop on that size boat. You can play with numbers for canals etc.
However you have 2 clear months to get round that means sailing every other day. To make the passage round, IMHO it will be to rushed to enjoy.
Why would it take so long to do around 1400 miles non stop?

Just to be sure I used the mileage facility on vessel finder.

Why are people worried about sailing in the dark, especially 2 up. Night exits and entries into ports is a fab way to gain experience and confidence.

I also wonder why this topic is always met with such gloom and doom? Of course its gonna have uncomfortable times, but I reckon you get out of such a trip more than you put in. Yeah, being a bit wet and cold is not wonderful but that's simply a means to an end for me.
 

Tranona

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If this is just an insurance limitation (rather than coding) it should be easy to increase for the price a meal out.
Not sure. It will be a restriction by the owner's insurance probably to ensure the boat does not get taken abroad. A charter of this length is unusual as insurers don't like a boat to be away for more than a couple of weeks at a time.
 

DoubleEnder

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Lovely to have a nice long charter, I am curious as to how you managed that! But it is the tail end of the summer, at best. Really this is an autumn trip. I would stay south, and explore along the coast to the west country. There are loads of places to visit, lots of interesting runs ashore, plenty of good harbours, marinas, anchorages. The 20 mile offshore limit is a bit odd, and quite restrictive. I would try to get that increased so you can go to the Channel islands and French ports. Take it easy! Scotland in September can be difficult, and every night is a bit longer....
 

Tranona

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Why would it take so long to do around 1400 miles non stop?

Just to be sure I used the mileage facility on vessel finder.

Why are people worried about sailing in the dark, especially 2 up. Night exits and entries into ports is a fab way to gain experience and confidence.

I also wonder why this topic is always met with such gloom and doom? Of course its gonna have uncomfortable times, but I reckon you get out of such a trip more than you put in. Yeah, being a bit wet and cold is not wonderful but that's simply a means to an end for me.
This is not the person's own boat and the owner's insurers have placed a restriction that seriously compromises what is possible. Of course it is possible to do it as a challenge, but the OP has already indicated that he wants to port hop.
 

Chiara’s slave

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That is the wrong time of year to do that trip. The best time to be on the west coast of Scotland is now, mid May to mid June. After that it goes downhill & August is often 'orrible. The unwritten rule is to be off the west coast of Scotland by the end of August. Then the equinoctial gales start - wet and windy. Many years ago I tried to get south down the North Channel in October. After 10 days of persistent strong SW winds I gave up in Stranraer & went home. I retrieved the boat in November during a period of autumnal anticyclonic gloom.
You don’t need to go to Scotland for it to be ‘orrible, I assure you! Cowes week is always windy and wet, often cold too. We get a good patch very often in Sept/Oct, but August and early September, you might as well stay in bed. No doubt it’s even worse in your neck of the woods though.
 
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